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Raise internal reg. Alternator voltage

 
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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2872

PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 9:09 am    Post subject: Raise internal reg. Alternator voltage Reply with quote

I've got an oddball question that I've been pondering
for a while.

I have an older Plane Power 70A internal regulated alternator.
The output voltage is always 13.9V at least as detected by
my engine monitor

Since it's internally regulated, and has it's own overvoltage
module, and ties to the bus through I think a 5A
breaker, I'm not sure what I would be able to do to
raise the output voltage. They told me that
the regulator is fixed and non-adjustable, so on the
alternator end I'm sure there's not much I could do.

Now I've flown with it for almost 1,100 hours now and
it's never been an issue, but I do use an Odyssey battery
as my primary and some AGM batteries in my aux bus.
So I think ideally I'd raise the voltage up to
something just slightly higher if I wanted to optimize
my battery charge state.

Is there any simple way of tricking the alternator
into thinking the bus voltage is slightly lower than it
is so that it raises the output slightly?
I envision some way to drop voltage on the sense line
so that it jacks it up another .5V or so.

Just wondering what kinds of ideas anyone has, or if
maybe anyone else has done it and knows what would work.

Tim


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rene(at)felker.com
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 11:57 am    Post subject: Raise internal reg. Alternator voltage Reply with quote

Tim, depending on if you have an e-bus.

I see the same thing on my GRT EIS. It is on my e-bus. If I look at the power bus, then it is 14.2. Just recently I added a GRT Sport (long story) as my backup and it is NOT on my ebus and it showed 14.2 all the way to Vegas and back this week (first real flight with it). I never tried to measure my power bus before and my other EFIS is on the e-bus. I had the same concern as you until this week.

One way to check, is to turn on your e-bus and see what happens. When I did, my EIS and EFIS (SPORT) voltage reading was the same. Only 500 hours...not a 1000 like you....and I finally figured it out.

I did not think the diode was supposed to drop the voltage that much.....but it sure appears to. My normal full power voltage reading on the EIS is 13.9 or sometimes 14.0.

Rene'
801-721-6080

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 12:46 pm    Post subject: Raise internal reg. Alternator voltage Reply with quote

Is there any simple way of tricking the alternator
into thinking the bus voltage is slightly lower than it
is so that it raises the output slightly?
I envision some way to drop voltage on the sense line
so that it jacks it up another .5V or so.

Just wondering what kinds of ideas anyone has, or if
maybe anyone else has done it and knows what would work.

It depends on where the internal regulator senses
bus voltage. If it gets data from the b-lead terminal,
there's nothing you can do but swap out the regulator
and hope the new one is more SVLA-friendly.

Try putting a 1N540x diode in series with the
control wire off the 5A breaker. If it senses
voltage through this lead, then the approx 0.5
volt drop in the diode will spoof the regulator
into boosting output voltage at the b-lead.
Bob . . .


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 12:54 pm    Post subject: Raise internal reg. Alternator voltage Reply with quote

At 13:55 2015-02-13, you wrote:


Tim, depending on if you have an e-bus.

I see the same thing on my GRT EIS. It is on my e-bus. If I look at
the power bus, then it is 14.2. Just recently I added a GRT Sport
(long story) as my backup and it is NOT on my ebus and it showed 14.2
all the way to Vegas and back this week (first real flight with
it). I never tried to measure my power bus before and my other EFIS
is on the e-bus. I had the same concern as you until this week.

Ah . . . . but of course. It didn't occur to me that
his voltage sample was coming off a diode-isolated
e-bus.

One way to check, is to turn on your e-bus and see what
happens. When I did, my EIS and EFIS (SPORT) voltage reading was the
same. Only 500 hours...not a 1000 like you....and I finally figured it out.

I did not think the diode was supposed to drop the voltage that
much.....but it sure appears to. My normal full power voltage
reading on the EIS is 13.9 or sometimes 14.0.

The typical drop across a silicon rectifier is
0.6 to 0.7 volts. A Schottky rectifier will be
a little less. Rene's suggestion to close the
e-bus alternate feed will, of course, bypass
the normal feed path diode and raise the e-bus
voltage.

If this describes your situation, then all
is right with the universe and the 13.9 volt
reading is predictable and acceptable.

Bob . . .


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yellowduckduo(at)gmail.co
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 1:23 pm    Post subject: Raise internal reg. Alternator voltage Reply with quote

If this is not simply an e-buss issue, how much capacity and life is
actually being lost?
There is likely some temperature compensation in the regulator if it is
running hot. Is the EIS accurate? I know mine (different model) is off
by a couple of tenths.

I would be happy with 13.9 volts on an AGM battery in hot conditions as
there is no need for a fast charge in my aircraft. Different story today
with subzero temperatures here. Admittedly I don't worry much about my
batteries with Z14 architecture.
Ken

On 13/02/2015 3:45 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
Quote:

<nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com>

Is there any simple way of tricking the alternator
into thinking the bus voltage is slightly lower than it
is so that it raises the output slightly?
I envision some way to drop voltage on the sense line
so that it jacks it up another .5V or so.

Just wondering what kinds of ideas anyone has, or if
maybe anyone else has done it and knows what would work.

It depends on where the internal regulator senses
bus voltage. If it gets data from the b-lead terminal,
there's nothing you can do but swap out the regulator
and hope the new one is more SVLA-friendly.

Try putting a 1N540x diode in series with the
control wire off the 5A breaker. If it senses
voltage through this lead, then the approx 0.5
volt drop in the diode will spoof the regulator
into boosting output voltage at the b-lead.
Bob . . .



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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2872

PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 8:32 am    Post subject: Raise internal reg. Alternator voltage Reply with quote

Hi Rene',

That is a good idea, and one I've come across before. I haven't
really explored watching the difference between switch on and switch
off for a long time, so I'll have to do that on my next flight and
see how much change it is. I seem to remember it being .1V or so is
all.

The switch positions are definitely important. The alternator
field is connected to the MAIN bus.
But, in normal flight operation, the MAIN bus and E-Bus are
directly connected with no diode voltage drops in the path.

Now there is a little more complexity in the switching than that,
because I do have a schottky diode path to the e-bus (and aux batt)
when the switch is on to the e-BUS. So my aux batt will always
be charged via schottky. But the actual BUS the avionics are
on would only read that lowered voltage when the e-bus switch
is turned on. It's harder to follow without a diagram because
there is a bit more to the system for brownout prevention
and such, but the important part is that in the position the
switches are all in for standard ops, the main bus and
"critical systems bus" as I call it, are actually at the same
voltage potential. I actually feed that bus via 2 diodes from
both the MAIN bus and "Avionics" bus, which allows for
switching the e-bus feed without losing any power to that bus.
So the e-bus switch is always on during engine start but
then is turned off for normal operation, which keeps the bus
tied directly to the MAIN bus. It is not an exact copy of
any z-diagram, but incorporates many features plus some
brownout protection.

I did think of the idea that Bob provided about putting a
1N540x diode in line with the alternator feed. The worry I
had about doing that was that perhaps this extension of
the internal circuitry would have some unintended
consequence. I couldn't think of any, but just wondered if I
may be missing something. It's probably worth a shot some
day when it bugs me enough to dig into it. I think before
I do that though, I should get a good independent volt meter
in the plane during a flight and actually test what that
reads for main bus voltage. It could be that the EIS
has error, or by testing directly the various BUS voltages
I find what the real differences are.

For today, I was just putting the question out as a sounding
board to see if anyone else ever noticed the same thing and
what ideas everyone had. I'm not too worried about actually
fixing it, because I don't really consider it "broken".
But I am building my 2nd plane which is going to be largely
identical to the first, and thought it a good time to start
thinking of this topic. I'll probably go schottky diode
again on that plane too, just to keep the drop low where there
is a drop.

Tim


On 2/13/2015 1:55 PM, Rene wrote:
[quote]

Tim, depending on if you have an e-bus.

I see the same thing on my GRT EIS. It is on my e-bus. If I look at
the power bus, then it is 14.2. Just recently I added a GRT Sport
(long story) as my backup and it is NOT on my ebus and it showed 14.2
all the way to Vegas and back this week (first real flight with it).
I never tried to measure my power bus before and my other EFIS is on
the e-bus. I had the same concern as you until this week.

One way to check, is to turn on your e-bus and see what happens.
When I did, my EIS and EFIS (SPORT) voltage reading was the same.
Only 500 hours...not a 1000 like you....and I finally figured it
out.

I did not think the diode was supposed to drop the voltage that
much.....but it sure appears to. My normal full power voltage
reading on the EIS is 13.9 or sometimes 14.0.

Rene' 801-721-6080

--


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 15, 2015 7:14 pm    Post subject: Raise internal reg. Alternator voltage Reply with quote

Quote:
I did think of the idea that Bob provided about putting a
1N540x diode in line with the alternator feed. The worry I
had about doing that was that perhaps this extension of
the internal circuitry would have some unintended
consequence.


No . . . been there . . . done that. BUT it ONLY works
if the diode is in the regulator's voltage sense lead.
It is unlikely that any commercial-off-the-shelf alternator
with an internal regulator will sense through the control
lead . . . all schematics I've had the privilege of viewing
sensed the alternator's B-terminal.
Quote:
For today, I was just putting the question out as a sounding
board to see if anyone else ever noticed the same thing and
what ideas everyone had.

I'm not 100% sure that my mental image of your
descriptions match the physical reality. How about
sketching, scanning and then sharing an architecture
drawing? The SCHEMATIC is the universal language
readable by any and all.
Bob . . .


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