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Reducer /Retarder

 
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stuart(at)harnerfarm.net
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reducer /Retarder Reply with quote

Herb,

Wow, that is an intriguing question.

Evaporation causes cooling which causes condensation which causes blushing.

If the paint is cool to start with it will evaporate slower (I think) so that should slow condensation.

BUT cooler paint might cause condensation to start with. Hmmmm.

Which came first the chicken or the egg type question.

I think I have a can of retarder in the shop. I will look tomorrow to see if it lists the ingredients. Toluene or tolulol (sp) and maybe lacquer thinner?

Are you painting already or just getting ready?

Stuart

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Richard Pike



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee

PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 4:32 am    Post subject: Re: Reducer /Retarder Reply with quote

Stits has 2 types of reducer, one for cooler temps, and one for hotter. Can't remember which airplane I was painting, but using a HVLP unit I started getting cobwebs, as the air coming through the unit was somewhat heated, and it was also a hot day. Got a different reducer and that fixed it.
Check out this page, it lists 2 different reducers depending on the ambient air temp.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/2015Individual/Cat15405.pdf


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Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0

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Herbgh(at)nctc.com
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 5:03 am    Post subject: Reducer /Retarder Reply with quote

Stuart

I have the first coat of poly brush on the wings...and need to begin
to spray...another coat of poly brush, then couple of cross coats of
poly spray and on to the poly tone...
I know that Stitts is basically Mek and Acetone with some sort of
slowing agent in the mix...and something akin to poly vinyl acetate for
the glue.. Elmer's glue on steroids?? Smile

Back some years ago(around the time I was shamed by the old pride
lions on the list for suggesting that a type of ribbon(shouldn't have
called it ribbon!) could be used as reinforcing tape) Smile ..I
considered trying to make the Stitts paint brew at home...and came to
the conclusion that it is something like a quart of Acetone, a quart of
Mek, some alcohol to slow the drying and the vinlyl acetate(maybe
something akin to hot glue sticks dissolved therein... ?) I call it
Poly Vinyl Acetate for that was as close as I could come doing a web
study...

My first painting experience with Poly products was in a hot garage
in the middle of summer...and the paint dried before it reached the
fabric,,lots of cob webs floating in the air... I used reducer /
retarder after that... and got up very early...to begin the process.

Chilling the paint to 60 degrees or so should work...then again...do
not want to recover the wings !! Will likely make a frame with some
fabric on it and experiment... Failing that , will order a couple of
gallons of reducer/retarder..

This Firefly came to me in the quick build condition with the
fuselage and tail feathers painted... I have installed the engine, prop,
wired the instruments and covered the wings ..

Currently using my lathe to turn wheel spindles to mount mountain
bike brakes... The best and cheapest way to go for brakes.. salvage
yards are full of bikes these days...Kids are too busy with games to
ride bikes, but the parents go through the ritual anyway....I get them
for a buck or two...Usually just mounted on the front wheel..the
calliper will be mounted in opposite directions on each side of the
Firefly .. Brakes on a Kolb,imho, are only good for ground
handling...and in a real emergency when sacrificing the nose cone seems
the best choice..Smile 33 dollars and change on Ebay for the cheapest ,
shipped from the USA.

Herb

On 06/12/2015 10:34 PM, Stuart Harner wrote:
[quote]

Herb,

Wow, that is an intriguing question.

Evaporation causes cooling which causes condensation which causes blushing.

If the paint is cool to start with it will evaporate slower (I think) so that should slow condensation.

BUT cooler paint might cause condensation to start with. Hmmmm.

Which came first the chicken or the egg type question.

I think I have a can of retarder in the shop. I will look tomorrow to see if it lists the ingredients. Toluene or tolulol (sp) and maybe lacquer thinner?

Are you painting already or just getting ready?

Stuart

--


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Herbgh(at)nctc.com
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 5:05 am    Post subject: Reducer /Retarder Reply with quote

right Richard...checked them out some time ago...used the 85 deg
retarder /reducer on my last paint job... Works as advertised...just
wondering if there are alternatives...? Herb

On 06/13/2015 07:32 AM, Richard Pike wrote:
Quote:


Stits has 2 types of reducer, one for cooler temps, and one for hotter. Can't remember which airplane I was painting, but using a HVLP unit I started getting cobwebs, as the air coming through the unit was somewhat heated, and it was also a hot day. Got a different reducer and that fixed it.
Check out this page, it lists 2 different reducers depending on the ambient air temp.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/2015Individual/Cat15405.pdf

--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
There are two kinds of people: those who say to God, 'Thy will be done,' and those to whom God says, 'All right, then, have it your way.'


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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=443451#443451




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Richard Pike



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee

PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 3:48 am    Post subject: Re: Reducer /Retarder Reply with quote

Herbgh(at)nctc.com wrote:
right Richard...checked them out some time ago...used the 85 deg
retarder /reducer on my last paint job... Works as advertised...just
wondering if there are alternatives...? Herb


I have used Randolph products in the past, I think they are as easy as Stits. They are certainly cheaper.


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_________________
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0

Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is amazing.
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