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Spinner Question

 
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AcroGimp



Joined: 11 Jun 2013
Posts: 45
Location: San Diego, CA USA

PostPosted: Fri Sep 25, 2015 7:56 am    Post subject: Spinner Question Reply with quote

Mechanic asked for some help, installing a new-to-me spinner (Yak-18T style), and we are having trouble getting the nuts on the back side. Removed the beauty ring that sat over the inner gill frame on the nose case but looks like more of that might need to come out.

Does anything more in the attached photo need to be removed for spinner install?



Thanks in advance

'Gimp


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cpayne(at)joimail.com
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 7:35 am    Post subject: Spinner Question Reply with quote

Mounting the back plate is a slow and agonizing process, there is no way around it, only different recovery techniques. An easy chair and cold beer is often the reward after each nut is put on. Did I mention that it was a slow process?

I use safety wire around each nut to position and start with a long handled screw driver and a deft touch . Also a simple wrench made of .063" 0r .090" aluminum, backed by a thin strip on the back can snug each nut. Final tightening will be by a steel open-end, ground down to fit.

Removing the 2-piece back plate is not something to do often. Mounting the first half is not so bad as the second half plate.

Craig Payne


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pilotdog57(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 9:28 am    Post subject: Spinner Question Reply with quote

Sounds to me like the best and most reasonable approach to an unreasonable task!
The thin aluminum wrench is a great idea- I once used a bicycle cone wrench similarly.

Doug Z

Sent from my iPad

Quote:
On Sep 27, 2015, at 8:31 AM, Cpayne <cpayne(at)joimail.com> wrote:



Mounting the back plate is a slow and agonizing process, there is no way around it, only different recovery techniques. An easy chair and cold beer is often the reward after each nut is put on. Did I mention that it was a slow process?

I use safety wire around each nut to position and start with a long handled screw driver and a deft touch . Also a simple wrench made of .063" 0r .090" aluminum, backed by a thin strip on the back can snug each nut. Final tightening will be by a steel open-end, ground down to fit.

Removing the 2-piece back plate is not something to do often. Mounting the first half is not so bad as the second half plate.

Craig Payne






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AcroGimp



Joined: 11 Jun 2013
Posts: 45
Location: San Diego, CA USA

PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2015 11:10 am    Post subject: Re: Spinner Question Reply with quote

So I went into the parts catalog because it appeared there was another ring to be removed, and I was right. It is called 'removable ring' in some illustrations and is the ring the bolts that serve as the eccentric pivot for the gill go into.



Removed it and was able to get the first half installed yesterday.



Previous owner had modified the backplate to be installable with the nuts installed by filing down the inner lip and slotting the holes - takes some manipulation but was able to get the first half on yesterday.

Will take some patience but should be able to wrap it up now.

'Gimp


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AcroGimp



Joined: 11 Jun 2013
Posts: 45
Location: San Diego, CA USA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 6:36 am    Post subject: Re: Spinner Question Reply with quote

cpayne(at)joimail.com wrote:
Mounting the back plate is a slow and agonizing process, there is no way around it, only different recovery techniques. An easy chair and cold beer is often the reward after each nut is put on. Did I mention that it was a slow process?

I use safety wire around each nut to position and start with a long handled screw driver and a deft touch . Also a simple wrench made of .063" 0r .090" aluminum, backed by a thin strip on the back can snug each nut. Final tightening will be by a steel open-end, ground down to fit.

Removing the 2-piece back plate is not something to do often. Mounting the first half is not so bad as the second half plate.

Craig Payne
Craig, can you explain a little more about your safetywire technique?

I pulled the prop forward on the hub a little to provide more room for the lockwashers and nuts (keeping the 3 nuts on the other side secure but with room to move the prop around).

I am imagining a couple loops around the nut to allow you to maneuver it into position, and then trying to start it with the tip of a screwdriver?

Spent 1.5 hrs yesterday and could not get even one started, very frustrating.

'Gimp


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aerostar6



Joined: 26 Jun 2008
Posts: 33
Location: Amersham, UK

PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 1:52 am    Post subject: Re: Spinner Question Reply with quote

Hey John.

I have done this process 4 times in the last 6 months when my overhauled engine had to be removed for the second time.
My mechanic came up with a perfect solution. Take a long, stiff strip of metal, around 9" long (an old hacksaw blade is perfect) and weld onto the end a stud made up of a bolt end the same size as the prop stud, with maybe three full threads remaining.
Now spin on your nut and you should have enough room to offer the whole assembly up to the prop stud. Then carefully nudge the nut off your 'tool' and onto the stud.
You will probably fail to engage the thread and drop the nut one time in three, but this method should see success in a much shorter time than any other I have used.
Sorry I don't have a pic, but am not back at the airfield for a few days.

Hope to see your new spinner on at Gillespie when I am next in town later this month!


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AcroGimp



Joined: 11 Jun 2013
Posts: 45
Location: San Diego, CA USA

PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 9:55 am    Post subject: Re: Spinner Question Reply with quote

aerostar6 wrote:
Hey John.

I have done this process 4 times in the last 6 months when my overhauled engine had to be removed for the second time.
My mechanic came up with a perfect solution. Take a long, stiff strip of metal, around 9" long (an old hacksaw blade is perfect) and weld onto the end a stud made up of a bolt end the same size as the prop stud, with maybe three full threads remaining.
Now spin on your nut and you should have enough room to offer the whole assembly up to the prop stud. Then carefully nudge the nut off your 'tool' and onto the stud.
You will probably fail to engage the thread and drop the nut one time in three, but this method should see success in a much shorter time than any other I have used.
Sorry I don't have a pic, but am not back at the airfield for a few days.

Hope to see your new spinner on at Gillespie when I am next in town later this month!
Brilliant solution Mark, we got it on and it all balanced out to 0.05 IPS, smooth like butter, getting it all put back together with new cockpit, landing/taxi and nav/pos/strobe LED's, should test fly later this week.

See in a few weeks.

'Gimp


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ronpenrose



Joined: 16 Jul 2014
Posts: 15
Location: Kansas City Metro (KLXT)

PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 9:02 am    Post subject: Re: Spinner Question Reply with quote

I just finished installing a Whirlwind spinner and this is the tool I finally made that helped immensely - similar to Mark's post. Dennis Savarese suggested this to me and it worked great. Of course I did drop the nut several times before getting to thread.

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ronpenrose



Joined: 16 Jul 2014
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 9:17 am    Post subject: Re: Spinner Question Reply with quote

The image did not post because too big. Here it is now.

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