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lm4(at)juno.com
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 Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 7:35 am Post subject: Help with Link Trainer |
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On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:52 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote:
Bob,
Since this last post I bought an insertion/removal tool from
Steinair in the hopes that I could recover the hundred pins
and sockets I'll need to install into the connectors for the trainer.
It doesn't do the job. Then I came across "Bobs shop notes" and
now I'm thinking that it's the wrong tool. It's red and white, does not
have a hole in the shaft, and will not release the pins. As you said in
the shop notes there are old and new tools. The trainer was built
around 1972. If you have a tool that will fit the older connectors I
would like to borrow it for a short time. I would like very much to
recover and reuse these pins and sockets as the people like
Digi-key list these pins at about $7.00 each.
Of course I'll take care of the postage each way.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Larry Mac Donald
| Quote: | Thanks Bob,If I can find the connectors I will certainly take you up on that offer.
Larry
On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
| Quote: | | Quote: | Bob,
There are a few things I could do but, wow, what a headache.
Larry |
Mmmm . . . making a new plate to mount larger
connectors is pretty easy if you have the
punches for d-sub holes. I do have those.
I could, in fact, make you any new flat-plate(s)
properly punched, in a few minutes.
I wouldn't use solder connectors for so many
wires. I've probably got what you need in
crimped housings and pins to do the job.
Got a tool I could loan you too.
Bob . . .
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[img]cid:A9CCC178-1CE7-41BA-BA8C-3BC309B70969(at)rochester.rr.com[/img]
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lyleapgmc
Joined: 19 Feb 2014
Posts: 57
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 10:32 am Post subject: Help with Link Trainer |
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There are some pin extraction tools available at the local auto parts store. A couple I purchased have 6 different types or styles of release tools on one central block.
Another thing I have done with those pins that just didn't want to be extracted with the usual tools is to use a length of brass tubing. It takes some experimenting to get the right size tubing that fits in the hole and still compresses the tabs locking the pin. I find brass, steel and aluminum tubing in small sizes at hobby stores that cater more to model builders. The craft stores don't seem to carry tubing.
On 3/26/2016 10:22 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote:
| Quote: |
On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:52 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote:
Bob,
Since this last post I bought an insertion/removal tool from
Steinair in the hopes that I could recover the hundred pins
and sockets I'll need to install into the connectors for the trainer.
It doesn't do the job. Then I came across "Bobs shop notes" and
now I'm thinking that it's the wrong tool. It's red and white, does not
have a hole in the shaft, and will not release the pins. As you said in
the shop notes there are old and new tools. The trainer was built
around 1972. If you have a tool that will fit the older connectors I
would like to borrow it for a short time. I would like very much to
recover and reuse these pins and sockets as the people like
Digi-key list these pins at about $7.00 each.
Of course I'll take care of the postage each way.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Larry Mac Donald
| Quote: | Thanks Bob, If I can find the connectors I will certainly take you up on that offer.
Larry
On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
| Quote: | | Quote: | Bob,
There are a few things I could do but, wow, what a headache.
Larry |
Mmmm . . . making a new plate to mount larger
connectors is pretty easy if you have the
punches for d-sub holes. I do have those.
I could, in fact, make you any new flat-plate(s)
properly punched, in a few minutes.
I wouldn't use solder connectors for so many
wires. I've probably got what you need in
crimped housings and pins to do the job.
Got a tool I could loan you too.
Bob . . .
|
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user9253
Joined: 28 Mar 2008
Posts: 1927
Location: Riley TWP Michigan
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 12:27 pm Post subject: Re: Help with Link Trainer |
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A telescoping antenna has several sizes of brass tube.
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Joe Gores |
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ceengland7(at)gmail.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 1:25 pm Post subject: Help with Link Trainer |
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Lyle,If you take Bob up on his offer of new plates punched for subD connectors,I don't think you'll be able to use the existing pins. Hard to know fromjust looking at a pic, but it's unlikely they will fit a subD housing(especially if Stein's extractor tool doesn't work). The standard size subDpins are not cheap, but they are much less expensive that what you werequoted for the old style pins.I don't know what your background is, but FWIW, I've had 2 differentcareers that required frequent use of soldering skills, and I've resistedusing crimp terminal subD connectors because of their expense, compared tothe solder kind. However, when I started wiring my plane, my time/$ scalegot tipped a lot in a hurry. Looks like you have plenty of slack in thewiring. I'd spend $35 for a crimp tool and probably less than $75 for allthe shells & pins needed to do everything. Make yourself a crossoverdiagram from the old connector to the new subD (with extra pins availablein the selected connector), clip, strip, crimp, insert. Repeat.I suspect you'll save yourself at least an upper GI scope, if not a heartvalve replacement.  I would suggest marking each shell with the 1st & last pin number on eachside (avoid 3row styles if you can, for convenience). The shells aremarked, but old eyes need bright light & a magnifying glass to read them,and Male & Female mirror each other so it's really easy to get turnedaround. I still do, and I've been building cables with them for over 40years.Charlie
On Sat, Mar 26, 2016 at 12:59 PM, Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)centurylink.net (lyleap(at)centurylink.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | There are some pin extraction tools available at the local auto parts store. A couple I bought have 6 different types or styles of release tools on one central block.
Another thing I have done with those pins that just didn't want to be extracted with the usual tools is to use a length of brass tubing. It takes some experimenting to get the right size tubing that fits in the hole and still compresses the tabs locking the pin. I find brass, steel and aluminum tubing in small sizes at hobby stores that cater more to model builders. The craft stores don't seem to carry tubing.
On 3/26/2016 10:22 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote:
| Quote: |
On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:52 AM, Larry Mac Donald wrote:
Bob,
Since this last post I bought an insertion/removal tool from
Steinair in the hopes that I could recover the hundred pins
and sockets I'll need to install into the connectors for the trainer.
It doesn't do the job. Then I came across "Bobs shop notes" andÂ
now I'm thinking that it's the wrong tool. It's red and white, does notÂ
have a hole in the shaft, and will not release the pins. As you said inÂ
the shop notes there are old and new tools. The trainer was builtÂ
around 1972. If you have a tool that will fit the older connectors IÂ
would like to borrow it for a short time. I would like very much toÂ
recover and reuse these pins and sockets as the people like
Digi-key list these pins at about $7.00 each.
Of course I'll take care of the postage each way.
Thanks for any help you can give me.
Larry Mac Donald
| Quote: | Thanks Bob, If I can find the connectors I will certainly take you up on that offer.
Larry
On Mar 11, 2016, at 11:31 AM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III wrote:
| Quote: | | Quote: | Bob,
There are a few things I could do but, wow, what a headache.
Larry |
 Mmmm . . . making a new plate to mount larger
 connectors is pretty easy if you have the
 punches for d-sub holes. I do have those.
 I could, in fact, make you any new flat-plate(s)
 properly punched, in a few minutes.
 I wouldn't use solder connectors for so many
 wires. I've probably got what you need in
 crimped housings and pins to do the job.
 Got a tool I could loan you too.
 Bob . . .
|
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 5:06 am Post subject: Help with Link Trainer |
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Larry, thanks for the picture. That is NOT
a d-sub connector. That series of connectors
started life in avionics back in the 60s as
"Winchester" connectors and eventually picked
up by AMP. Originally solder-only they morphed
into their "M" series connectors with removable
crimp pins.
See http://tinyurl.com/hu5wdpj
Those use the Series II pins and I think the
extraction too looks like this
 http://media.digikey.com/photos/Tyco%20Amp%20Photos/305183.jpg
I need to do some more catalog surfing to make
sure we get you the right parts but I've got a
living room full of grandkids who are going to
want to search for Easter eggs when they wake
up . . . this year's hunt will have to be inside
I think . . . it SNOWED last night.
Refresh my memory, do you need to replace one or
more of these connectors or just de-pin them
for re-installation?
Bob . . .
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