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Herbgh(at)nctc.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 10:19 am Post subject: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs... |
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Yep...the only reason to clad 2024 has to do with the inevitable
corrosion of the high copper content of the alloy..
6061 has a considerable content of Magnesium and Manganese... and
the base metal oxidizes to form the protective barrier...which suffices
on our Kolbs... Most of it is mill marked with Chandler Aluminum in
Arizona and with the 6061 t6 designation...
I rebuilt a 20 some year old Ultrastar wreck...and the good parts
were as sound as a current model... even the steel rivets used back
then were serviceable...and much easier to drill out... the feared
galvanic effect is not a worry IMHO!! At least over the life of our
planes, based on that experience..
I worked at Kaiser Aluminum for a time...in the lab and on the floor
at all stages of aluminum production..but my memory is vague now... Herb
On 04/12/2016 11:56 AM, Charlie England wrote:
[quote]
Stuart,
Not meaning to take a poke at you personally, but... Alodine doesn't
'stick' to the aluminum. It is a 'conversion' process. It basically
corrodes the microscopic top layer of the aluminum, forming an
'converted' (basically a modified oxide) layer that prevents further
corrosion of the underlying aluminum. (Very non-tech, layman's
description)
Alodine works fine on alclad (typically 2024 alloy with pure aluminum
coating to protect the corrosion prone 2024), and also works fine on
6061 alloy which doesn't need the alclad to protect it. I can
personally testify to it working on both, because both alloys are used
in the RV-7 I'm building, and I've personally treated both alloys
successfully.
The hinges you attempted to treat were almost certainly 6061 or
similar alloy, without any cladding. If I were a betting man, I'd bet
that you didn't get the surface perfectly clean and free of oils/other
contamination, and/or you didn't properly acid etch the parts prior to
the treatment attempt. All aluminum has a layer of corrosion on its
surface, if it's been exposed to air for more than a few minutes. The
alodine cannot 'convert' this layer of oxide; it can only work on
aluminum itself. It cannot work through any contaminants, either. The
likely reason you got conversion in the holes and not the surface is
that the act of drilling the holes removed the contaminants and the
corrosion layer.
I don't know what alloys are used in Kolbs, but I'd bet that any
extruded parts (angle, plate, etc) are 6061 and tubing is also 6061,
except for non-structural stuff like aluminum fuel line, which is
usually 3000 series alloy. Aluminum sheet could be either 6061 or
2024, but is probably 6061.
6061 is pretty corrosion resistant, so unless the plane will be tied
down outside or lives near salt water, alodine might not be *needed*,
but it never hurts.
With 2024, the alodine process provides an extra 'layer' of protection
in addition to the alclad.
Tests have shown that alodine provides as much protection from
corrosion as the best epoxies or any other actual paint/coating process.
FWIW,
Charlie
On 4/12/2016 8:49 AM, Stuart Harner wrote:
>
>
> Bill,
>
> If the tubes are alclad, (I suspect they are) the alodine won't
> "stick" anyway.
>
> After drilling all the holes in the hinges I got all set up to
> alodine them. Turned out the only place it would take was the inside
> of the holes. The hinges were either alclad or already alodined with
> clear chemical. The pretty gold colored holes were quickly filled
> with stainless steel rivets so no one can see anyway but I know they
> are protected.
>
> You could do a test on a small piece of scrap tube to see what effect
> it has.
>
> Stuart
>
> --
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victorbravo(at)sbcglobal. Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:33 am Post subject: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs... |
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This raises a question for me... I tried to drill out some of the rivets that were used by the original builder to build the tails (damaged in shipping), and it was very very difficult to do it without damaging the parts under the rivets. Drilling off the heads was possible, but pounding the stems out of the holes without collapsing or denting the tubes was very difficult.
Are there more than one type of rivets that are considered acceptable for the Kolb? Anything other than Stainless? Are the Avex rivets (used on the Zenair) seen as acceptable?
Bill Berle
www.ezflaphandle.com - safety & performance upgrade for light aircraft
www.grantstar.net - winning proposals for non-profit and for-profit entities
--------------------------------------------
On Tue, 4/12/16, Herb <Herbgh(at)nctc.com> wrote:
Subject: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs...
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Date: Tuesday, April 12, 2016, 11:18 AM
Herb <Herbgh(at)nctc.com>
Yep...the only reason to clad 2024 has to do with the
inevitable
corrosion of the high copper content of the alloy..
6061 has a considerable content of
Magnesium and Manganese... and
the base metal oxidizes to form the protective
barrier...which suffices
on our Kolbs... Most of it is mill marked with Chandler
Aluminum in
Arizona and with the 6061 t6 designation...
I rebuilt a 20 some year old Ultrastar
wreck...and the good parts
were as sound as a current model... even the steel
rivets used back
then were serviceable...and much easier to drill out... the
feared
galvanic effect is not a worry IMHO!! At least over the life
of our
planes, based on that experience..
I worked at Kaiser Aluminum for a
time...in the lab and on the floor
at all stages of aluminum production..but my memory is vague
now... Herb
On 04/12/2016 11:56 AM, Charlie England wrote:
>
<ceengland7(at)gmail.com>
>
> Stuart,
>
> Not meaning to take a poke at you personally, but...
Alodine doesn't
> 'stick' to the aluminum. It is a 'conversion' process.
It basically
> corrodes the microscopic top layer of the aluminum,
forming an
> 'converted' (basically a modified oxide) layer that
prevents further
> corrosion of the underlying aluminum. (Very non-tech,
layman's
> description)
>
> Alodine works fine on alclad (typically 2024 alloy with
pure aluminum
> coating to protect the corrosion prone 2024), and also
works fine on
> 6061 alloy which doesn't need the alclad to protect it.
I can
> personally testify to it working on both, because both
alloys are used
> in the RV-7 I'm building, and I've personally treated
both alloys
> successfully.
>
> The hinges you attempted to treat were almost certainly
6061 or
> similar alloy, without any cladding. If I were a
betting man, I'd bet
> that you didn't get the surface perfectly clean and
free of oils/other
> contamination, and/or you didn't properly acid etch the
parts prior to
> the treatment attempt. All aluminum has a layer of
corrosion on its
> surface, if it's been exposed to air for more than a
few minutes. The
> alodine cannot 'convert' this layer of oxide; it can
only work on
> aluminum itself. It cannot work through any
contaminants, either. The
> likely reason you got conversion in the holes and not
the surface is
> that the act of drilling the holes removed the
contaminants and the
> corrosion layer.
>
> I don't know what alloys are used in Kolbs, but I'd bet
that any
> extruded parts (angle, plate, etc) are 6061 and tubing
is also 6061,
> except for non-structural stuff like aluminum fuel
line, which is
> usually 3000 series alloy. Aluminum sheet could be
either 6061 or
> 2024, but is probably 6061.
>
> 6061 is pretty corrosion resistant, so unless the plane
will be tied
> down outside or lives near salt water, alodine might
not be *needed*,
> but it never hurts.
>
> With 2024, the alodine process provides an extra
'layer' of protection
> in addition to the alclad.
>
> Tests have shown that alodine provides as much
protection from
> corrosion as the best epoxies or any other actual
paint/coating process.
>
> FWIW,
>
> Charlie
>
> On 4/12/2016 8:49 AM, Stuart Harner wrote:
>>
<stuart(at)harnerfarm.net>
>>
>> Bill,
>>
>> If the tubes are alclad, (I suspect they are) the
alodine won't
>> "stick" anyway.
>>
>> After drilling all the holes in the hinges I got
all set up to
>> alodine them. Turned out the only place it would
take was the inside
>> of the holes. The hinges were either alclad or
already alodined with
>> clear chemical. The pretty gold colored holes were
quickly filled
>> with stainless steel rivets so no one can see
anyway but I know they
>> are protected.
>>
>> You could do a test on a small piece of scrap tube
to see what effect
>> it has.
>>
>> Stuart
>>
>> --
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byoungplumbing(at)gmail.c Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 11:45 am Post subject: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs... |
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For corrosion protection on my mkiii .. Before I put on fabric I took a syringe, loaded it up with epoxy primer, then put a drip or two on each joint. I let capliary attraction pull the primer into the joints. 2 things, it should keep moisture and corrosion out of metal to metal contacts, and if it helped to stabilize the joints,,,, all the better....
Boyd Young
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John Hauck
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 4639 Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:06 pm Post subject: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs... |
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This raises a question for me... I tried to drill out some of the rivets that were used by the original builder to build the tails (damaged in shipping), and it was very very difficult to do it without damaging the parts under the rivets. Drilling off the heads was possible, but pounding the stems out of the holes without collapsing or denting the tubes was very difficult.
Are there more than one type of rivets that are considered acceptable for the Kolb? Anything other than Stainless? Are the Avex rivets (used on the Zenair) seen as acceptable?
Bill Berle
Kolbers:
Carbon and SS pop rivets use hardened steel mandrels. If an 1/8" bit comes in contact with the mandrel, the mandrel wins very quickly.
I have rebuilt all three of my Kolbs, which required a lot of rivet drilling to remove. Learned a few tricks over the years doing that.
First, drive out the old mandrel prior to a drilling attempt. You can buy a 1/16" punch that works great, or use spent mandrels. First grind one end square (flat). Use small Vise Grips to hold the mandrel. The drive them out.
To prevent the rivet from spinning while drilling I made a small tool out of a piece of hack saw blade. I grind a notch in one end, beveling on one edge. Push this under the rivet head as far as possible to lock the rivet.
If the rivet is not for a structural part, I use common hardware store aluminum rivets. Easy to drill out. All my Lexan is attached with aluminum rivets.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
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_________________ John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama |
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Herbgh(at)nctc.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:20 pm Post subject: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs... |
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I think someone noticed that Bryan uses , likely non acetic , silicone
to seal the tube ends from bugs and the like...probably moisture also..Herb
On 04/12/2016 02:45 PM, B Young wrote:
Quote: |
For corrosion protection on my mkiii .. Before I put on fabric I
took a syringe, loaded it up with epoxy primer, then put a drip or
two on each joint. I let capliary attraction pull the primer into the
joints. 2 things, it should keep moisture and corrosion out of
metal to metal contacts, and if it helped to stabilize the joints,,,,
all the better....
Boyd Young
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--
Signature text; Fort Marcy Park? Sure...Mr. Foster...Third red light and turn left.
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Herbgh(at)nctc.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 12:24 pm Post subject: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs... |
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In a very tough case...grinding the head off with a dremel tool works...
Herb
On 04/12/2016 03:06 PM, John Hauck wrote:
Quote: |
This raises a question for me... I tried to drill out some of the rivets that were used by the original builder to build the tails (damaged in shipping), and it was very very difficult to do it without damaging the parts under the rivets. Drilling off the heads was possible, but pounding the stems out of the holes without collapsing or denting the tubes was very difficult.
Are there more than one type of rivets that are considered acceptable for the Kolb? Anything other than Stainless? Are the Avex rivets (used on the Zenair) seen as acceptable?
Bill Berle
Kolbers:
Carbon and SS pop rivets use hardened steel mandrels. If an 1/8" bit comes in contact with the mandrel, the mandrel wins very quickly.
I have rebuilt all three of my Kolbs, which required a lot of rivet drilling to remove. Learned a few tricks over the years doing that.
First, drive out the old mandrel prior to a drilling attempt. You can buy a 1/16" punch that works great, or use spent mandrels. First grind one end square (flat). Use small Vise Grips to hold the mandrel. The drive them out.
To prevent the rivet from spinning while drilling I made a small tool out of a piece of hack saw blade. I grind a notch in one end, beveling on one edge. Push this under the rivet head as far as possible to lock the rivet.
If the rivet is not for a structural part, I use common hardware store aluminum rivets. Easy to drill out. All my Lexan is attached with aluminum rivets.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
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--
Signature text; Fort Marcy Park? Sure...Mr. Foster...Third red light and turn left.
| - The Matronics Kolb-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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Richard Pike
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 1671 Location: Blountville, Tennessee
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 1:27 pm Post subject: Re: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs... |
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John Hauck wrote: |
Kolbers: <snip>
To prevent the rivet from spinning while drilling I made a small tool out of a piece of hack saw blade. I grind a notch in one end, beveling on one edge. Push this under the rivet head as far as possible to lock the rivet.
<snip>
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama |
Yep. Works like a champion. Sharpen the beveled notch edges with a Dremel.
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_________________ Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is amazing. |
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John Hauck
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 4639 Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 1:39 pm Post subject: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs... |
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Yep. Works like a champion. Sharpen the beveled notch edges with a Dremel.
--------
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
I used the corner of a bench grinder to do mine. The little homemade tools
I use for pop rivets in the tin can with my pop rivet gun and snap punch,
must be 30 years old. Can't wear them out and they didn't cost anything to
start with.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
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_________________ John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama |
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gtaylor35918(at)roadrunne Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 2:19 pm Post subject: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs... |
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Good video,
Christ has pay the prince for our sins, it is by God's Grace that
we are Saved.
G od's
R iches
A t
C hrist
E xpense
--
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victorbravo(at)sbcglobal. Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 3:03 pm Post subject: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs... |
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"Greg Taylor" <gtaylor35918(at)roadrunner.com>
Good video, Christ has pay the prince for our sins, it is by God's Grace that we are Saved.
-----------------
What's this have to do with Kolbs?
Can I post all of my other non-Kolb stuff here too?
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Herbgh(at)nctc.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2016 4:30 pm Post subject: Alloyed aluminum on our kolbs... |
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A lot of the guys on the list know each other, either from flyins or
cross country stints...so the List Gods tend to tollerate small
transgressions from time to time....
the general attitude is one of a bit of tolerance and the list Gods
generally say..."go forth and sin no more"! Herb
On 04/12/2016 06:01 PM, Bill Berle wrote:
Quote: |
"Greg Taylor" <gtaylor35918(at)roadrunner.com>
Good video, Christ has pay the prince for our sins, it is by God's Grace that we are Saved.
-----------------
What's this have to do with Kolbs?
Can I post all of my other non-Kolb stuff here too?
|
--
Signature text; Fort Marcy Park? Sure...Mr. Foster...Third red light and turn left.
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