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art(at)zemon.name
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 Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 11:55 am Post subject: Check My Work |
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I found some old dogbone connectors in the basement and have been doing some practicing. Googling didn't turn up any examples of a well soldered joint so please give me some feedback. (I did find a YouTube video of someone teaching soldering... he had a roll of electrical tape!) The wire is 20 AWG in this sample:
[img]cid:ii_inezoyo40_15449d2b2cf72449[/img]
[img]cid:ii_inezoyot1_15449d2b2cf72449[/img]
[img]cid:ii_inezoypa2_15449d2b2cf72449[/img]
Is that how it should look?
BTW, it is a pure delight to use the WES51. I have never bought anything better than a $25 soldering pencil for myself. I wish I could have afforded something like this back when I was in junior high and in high school and was building lots o' stuff.
Thanks,
  -- Art Z.
--
http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 12:57 pm Post subject: Check My Work |
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At 02:53 PM 4/24/2016, you wrote:
| Quote: | | I found some old dogbone connectors in the basement and have been doing some practicing. Googling didn't turn up any examples of a well soldered joint so please give me some feedback. (I did find a YouTube video of someone teaching soldering... he had a roll of electrical tape!) The wire is 20 AWG in this sample: |
That joint is probably quite adequate. There
are some signs of 'beading' for the molten
solder at the interface with the terminal . . .
an effect of terminals exposed to the air
and moisture for some time . . . solder
has difficulty getting an aggressive wetting.
The really BIG difference in solders has more
to do with flux than the alloy. There are
really 'active' fluxes that would produce
a more wetted joint but I wouldn't be afraid
of what you've produced.
One thing you might 'practice' with is a technique
I call "flushing" the joint. Put some heat to the
terminal as if you were going to 'tin' the
end . . . but push some solder into the melt
until it drips, then wipe it off with rag before
it cools. Some solders I have are very active
flux and the excess melt+flux goes a long
way to preparing the base metal to accept
the soldered wire. You wind up using perhaps
2x to 3x of solder necessary to complete
the joint but the act of flushing with some
excess melt + flux can be useful to the
finished joint on 'stale' surfaces.
That's something you can play with but what
you've shown us is certainly adequate.
Bob . . .
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 1:17 pm Post subject: Check My Work |
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At 03:56 PM 4/24/2016, you wrote:
| Quote: | At 02:53 PM 4/24/2016, you wrote:
| Quote: | | I found some old dogbone connectors in the basement and have been doing some practicing. Googling didn't turn up any examples of a well soldered joint so please give me some feedback. (I did find a YouTube video of someone teaching soldering... he had a roll of electrical tape!) The wire is 20 AWG in this sample: |
That joint is probably quite adequate. There
are some signs of 'beading' for the molten
solder at the interface with the terminal . . .
an effect of terminals exposed to the air
and moisture for some time . . . solder
has difficulty getting an aggressive wetting. |
You're looking for something more like this:
[img]cid:.0[/img]
Bob . . .
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art(at)zemon.name
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| Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 2:55 pm Post subject: Check My Work |
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Bob,
Flushing... never heard of it. I just tried it on one of those old connectors and I did get a much better joint.Â
My practice connectors, BTW, have been in my basement for more than 20 years. They are heavily oxidized. I wouldn't put them into my plane but they are proving worthy experimentation fodder.
Oh... before I forget again... some of the photos on Poor Man's Solder Sleeves don't load. I was able to make a very satisfactory splice following your instructions on that page. I am now ready to cut and extend the CAN bus link cable that came with my MGL autopilot servo.
Thank you for your mentoring and encouragement.
  -- Art Z.
On Sun, Apr 24, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Robert L. Nuckolls, III <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Â One thing you might 'practice' with is a technique
 I call "flushing" the joint. Put some heat to the
 terminal as if you were going to 'tin' the
 end . . . but push some solder into the melt
 until it drips, then wipe it off with rag before
 it cools. Some solders I have are very active
 flux and the excess melt+flux goes a long
 way to preparing the base metal to accept
 the soldered wire. You wind up using perhaps
 2x to 3x of solder necessary to complete
 the joint but the act of flushing with some
 excess melt + flux can be useful to the
 finished joint on 'stale' surfaces.
|
--
http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Sun Apr 24, 2016 7:17 pm Post subject: Check My Work |
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At 05:54 PM 4/24/2016, you wrote:
| Quote: | Bob,
Flushing... never heard of it. |
You wouldn't . . . in the higher order
environs of manufacturing with bright,
new components. But for those of us who
date back to 6v mobile rigs running
vibrators and PE-103 dynamoters all
scrounged from WWII military surplus,
a few 'tricks of the trade' were
discovered.
| Quote: | I just tried it on one of those old connectors and I did get a much better joint.Â
My practice connectors, BTW, have been in my basement for more than 20 years. They are heavily oxidized. I wouldn't put them into my plane but they are proving worthy experimentation fodder. |
Sure . . . but should you wish to use
one, pulling the soldered end out of a
firm grip in ScotchBright will improve
the wetting too.
| Quote: | Oh... before I forget again... some of the photos on Poor Man's Solder Sleeves don't load. I was able to make a very satisfactory splice following your instructions on that page. I am now ready to cut and extend the CAN bus link cable that came with my MGL autopilot servo.
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I just checked them here and they came
down alright . . . sorry you're having
difficulty.
| Quote: | | Thank you for your mentoring and encouragement. |
Thank us here on the List by getting better
at what you do . . . but you are indeed
most welcome.
Bob . . .
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skywagon
Joined: 11 Feb 2006
Posts: 184
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| Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 10:54 am Post subject: Check My Work |
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At first glance, that pic shows a poor solder joint.
The wire is captured correctly but, the joint to the terminal is poor. The solder should pool out in a graceful way and appear very attached. Sometimes best to lightly sand the terminal metal first so solder can attach to base metal.
D
[quote] ---
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skywagon
Joined: 11 Feb 2006
Posts: 184
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| Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2016 10:59 am Post subject: Check My Work |
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Oops. . . I probably spoke out of turn.
I did not see the 2nd image where the wire passes thru and is soldered on both sides. That joint maybe Ok. . The only flaw is that I cannot see the smooth fan-out of the solder edges. It looks like the solder is fighting against some sort of plating on the terminal. On a joint like that, I would probably try to flow some solder on the terminal first. Just enough to get a wet look but, not enough to block the wire hole. If that flows normally, then attach the wire and flow additional material to bind it all in one unit.
[quote] ---
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