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AZFlyer
Joined: 11 Jan 2006 Posts: 89 Location: Prescott, AZ
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 12:55 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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At the risk of interrupting the enlightning Corvair engine discussion, I'd like to ask for input on building of the XL wings.
I have currently riveted the right wing skeleton together, pilot drilled and clecoed the top skin, turned the wing over and drilled bottom and nose skin to A5 and A4 respectively, clecoed the bottom rear and nose skin.
My plan, with the ZAC assembly pictures and discription a little thin here, was to remove all bottom clecos, debur and Zinc C the bottom skins, rivet nose ribs on, rivet bottom and nose skin on, then turn wing over to install tank and finish up on top.(ie., wing tip, locker, wiring, etc.)
The assembly pics on the CD and ZAC site sort of jump around on different stages here. Am I doing this in correct order, or did I miss something along the way?
Thanks in advance...
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_________________ Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
601 XL-B, 3300, Dynon
Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"! |
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p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att Guest
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 1:27 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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Hi Mike,
I think you are on the right track.
I ran into serious problems after riveting the nose skin on the
bottom and then discovering I didn't position it correctly to make
the right position on the main spar angle on the top. I would
suggest you check this positioning carefully.
Also, I didn't follow the suggestion in the photo guide to install
temporary solid rivets to keep the alignment between the top skin and
main spar. Instead, I went ahead and drilled the top skin and
clecoed it to the spar before turning over and doing the
bottom. Whichever method you use, make sure the position of the top
rear skin is fixed to the main spar to keep the rear ribs in the
proper (perpendicular) angle to the spar before fixing the skins on
the bottom.
Other than that, I think you have it going just fine.
Paul
XL fuselage
do not archive
At 01:55 PM 7/7/2006, you wrote:
Quote: |
At the risk of interrupting the enlightning Corvair engine
discussion, I'd like to ask for input on building of the XL wings.
I have currently riveted the right wing skeleton together, pilot
drilled and clecoed the top skin, turned the wing over and drilled
bottom and nose skin to A5 and A4 respectively, clecoed the bottom
rear and nose skin.
My plan, with the ZAC assembly pictures and discription a little
thin here, was to remove all bottom clecos, debur and Zinc C the
bottom skins, rivet nose ribs on, rivet bottom and nose skin on,
then turn wing over to install tank and finish up on top.(ie., wing
tip, locker, wiring, etc.)
The assembly pics on the CD and ZAC site sort of jump around on
different stages here. Am I doing this in correct order, or did I
miss something along the way?
Thanks in advance...
--------
Mike Miller (at) millrml(at)aol.com
601 XL, 3300
Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=45559#45559
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---------------------------------------------
Paul Mulwitz
32013 NE Dial Road
Camas, WA 98607
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Jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 1:28 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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Mike, It sounds like you have the procedure down right. Remember to leave the rivets out where the flap hinge goes. Also leave the clecoes in the nose skin and the first nose rib outboard of the fuel tank. That is in case you have to "jiggle" the nose rib to get the fuel tank in place, according to ZAC.
Assuming that confession is good for the soul (and an admonition to others), I confess: I moved those clecoes inside. I only realized I had forgotten about them after everything was riveted (except those pesky inside clecoes). So I cut an "inspection" hole in the bottom of the nose skin, large enough to get my hand in and retrieve the clecoes. Build and learn!
Jay in Dallas, working on XL fuselage
Do not archive
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601zv(at)ritternet.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 1:39 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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I'd say yes. That's exactly what I did and it seemed to work fine. My wings
are now finished on the bottom with tanks and lockers installed, but tops
still clecoed for access for wiring etc.
Robin in AR, 601XL w/Wynne-Vair 2900
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dredmoody(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 5:34 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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I rivetted the nose ribs (completed the skeleton) before drilling and
clecoing any of the skins. I don't see a problem with doing it in the order
you described. You will find it easier to cut and finish access hatches
before the skin is rivetted to the skeleton. Also (probably obvious) make
sure you have all conduit, wiring, and plumbing done to your satisfaction
before riveting the nose and top rear skin. The aileron bellcrank brakets
should be rivetted to rear rib 7 before rivetting any skins, and the aileron
pushrod should be finished before rivetting the top rear skin. Rigging
aileron cables can be done via the bellcrank access hatch later when the
wings are mated to the fuselage.
Anybody see a problem with any of this?
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL / wings
Quote: |
At the risk of interrupting the enlightning Corvair engine discussion, I'd
like to ask for input on building of the XL wings.
I have currently riveted the right wing skeleton together, pilot drilled
and clecoed the top skin, turned the wing over and drilled bottom and nose
skin to A5 and A4 respectively, clecoed the bottom rear and nose skin.
My plan, with the ZAC assembly pictures and discription a little thin
here, was to remove all bottom clecos, debur and Zinc C the bottom skins,
rivet nose ribs on, rivet bottom and nose skin on, then turn wing over to
install tank and finish up on top.(ie., wing tip, locker, wiring, etc.)
The assembly pics on the CD and ZAC site sort of jump around on different
stages here. Am I doing this in correct order, or did I miss something
along the way?
Thanks in advance...
--------
Mike Miller (at) millrml(at)aol.com
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Jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:23 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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Personally, I would rig the bellcrank cables before colsing the wing. It is probably possible to to the cable swaging through the access panel, but I felt that it would be a real tight squeeze and a real hassle.
Jay in Dallas
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p.mulwitz(at)worldnet.att Guest
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 7:04 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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Hi Ed,
Just one little detail that might be improved. The access hatch
cover for the fuel tank finger strainer overlaps both nose ribs, so
it might be easier to do that hatch after riveting the bottom nose skin.
Paul
XL Fuselage
Quote: | I rivetted the nose ribs (completed the skeleton) before drilling
and clecoing any of the skins. I don't see a problem with doing it
in the order you described. You will find it easier to cut and
finish access hatches before the skin is rivetted to the skeleton.
Also (probably obvious) make sure you have all conduit, wiring, and
plumbing done to your satisfaction before riveting the nose and top
rear skin. The aileron bellcrank brakets should be rivetted to rear
rib 7 before rivetting any skins, and the aileron pushrod should be
finished before rivetting the top rear skin. Rigging aileron cables
can be done via the bellcrank access hatch later when the wings are
mated to the fuselage.
Anybody see a problem with any of this?
Ed Moody II
Rayne, LA
601XL / wings
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dredmoody(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 5:33 am Post subject: Wing Building |
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I may be wrong but as best I can tell, the swagging can take place outside the wing, then thread the cables through the lightening holes etc.
Any reason that won't work?
Ed
[quote] ---
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Jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 6:29 am Post subject: Wing Building |
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Ed, The cables must be threaded through the holes in the bellcrank, with a thimble. It is not as easy as it sounds! If this is done outside the wing, the bellcrank must be removed from its bracket. I suppose it would be easier to reinstall the bellcrank than to try to do the swaging inside the wing, which means reattaching the control rod to the aileron, also through the access hole. While it is possible, I just found it much easier to do with the wing open.
Jay in Dallas
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gboothe(at)calply.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 6:52 am Post subject: Wing Building |
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Ed / Jay,
If you’re like me, when you’re in wing building mode you don’t want to think about swaging cables, hooking up lights, etc. You want to see that wing get built! Just thread a length of 1/8” braided nylon rope thru the holes and tie it off to the bell crank. It will easy to attach the swaged end to the rope and pull thru at a later time and life will be good.
Of course, it you wish to do the connects now, have at it…
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion
Tail done, working on wings....
Ed, The cables must be threaded through the holes in the bellcrank, with a thimble. It is not as easy as it sounds! If this is done outside the wing, the bellcrank must be removed from its bracket. I suppose it would be easier to reinstall the bellcrank than to try to do the swaging inside the wing, which means reattaching the control rod to the aileron, also through the access hole. While it is possible, I just found it much easier to do with the wing open.
Jay in Dallas
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Michael Valentine
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 108
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 7:03 am Post subject: Wing Building |
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On 7/8/06, Jaybannist(at)cs.com <Jaybannist(at)cs.com> wrote:
Quote: | Ed, The cables must be threaded through the holes in the bellcrank, with a
thimble.
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horsecshoe-type connector (for lack of a proper word) and the
connector actually goes through the bellcrank. 1) Is that correct,
and 2) Does that make it easier to rig the cables later through the
access hole?
Michael
do not archive
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randy(at)shadycreekoutlaw Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 8:04 am Post subject: Wing Building |
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The thimble goes inside the "loop" that the cable makes. There is an item,
I think you are referring to as a "horseshoe type connector" that is called
a cable shackle that actually gets bolted to the aileron bellcrank that the
cable and thimble are "looped" through...
Randy
Do Not Archive
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Jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 9:17 am Post subject: Wing Building |
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Michael - IMHO, no. Try it once. The cable is stiff and "springy." the cable must be snug to the thimble and the Nicopress must be snug to the thimble. All this must be held firmly, assuring the proper cable end extension, while crimping the Nicopress. It definitely requires two hands, if not three, and as much room as possible, for the Nicopress tool, elbows, etc.
Jay in Dallas
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Michael Valentine
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 108
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 10:35 am Post subject: Wing Building |
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Thanks Randy and Jay -
I am getting close to closing up my first wing and, like Gary, I don't
really want to do this at the moment. Perhaps a couple more questions
will help me understand more of what is at stake:
1) Can't you make the loop in the cable outside of the wing at any
time, any place?
If so, then you can just feed the cable into the closed wing with a
1x2 or something.
2) Can't you then slide the pre-made loop into the cable shackle and
just bolt the shackle to the bellcrank through the access hole?
Then the only thing you are actually doing through the access hole is
tightening the shackle bolts.
Am I still missing something? **And, why doesn't Zenith have any
drawings/guides/instructions on these steps?**
Thanks, Michael
do not archive
On 7/8/06, Randy Bryant <randy(at)shadycreekoutlaws.com> wrote:
Quote: |
The thimble goes inside the "loop" that the cable makes. There is an item,
I think you are referring to as a "horseshoe type connector" that is called
a cable shackle that actually gets bolted to the aileron bellcrank that the
cable and thimble are "looped" through...
Randy
Do Not Archive
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Jaybannist(at)cs.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 11:04 am Post subject: Wing Building |
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Randy, I don't think the gap in the shackle will open enough to get the cable loop & thimble in after they are swaged. As I remember, the loop & thimble had to be formed on the shackle while crimping the Nicopress sleeve. And, yes, this could be done after the wing is closed, the cable threaded thru the lightening holes and the shackels bolted to the bellcrank. This is just vastly easier to do with the wing open, and in fact, easier with the bellcrank out of the wing.
Jay in Dallas
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randy(at)shadycreekoutlaw Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 1:41 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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Yeah, I don't think it will either, I was just responding to the message that left out the shackle... What I was reading, was to attach the cable/thimble directly to the bellcrank... I was just giving a basic order of bellcrank, shackle, then the cable actually attaches to the shackle, not directly to the bellcrank...
Thanks!
Randy
[quote] ---
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bryanmmartin
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 1018
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 4:43 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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The cables are not threaded through the holes in the bellcrank. The cables attach to the bellcrank by means of cable shackles. If I recall correctly, the cable shackle can be inserted through the cable loop and thimble after it's swaged although it is easier to thread the cable through before swaging.
I installed the thimble and shackle then threaded the cable through the sleeve and shackle, pulled it tight and then clamped it with a small set of vice grips to hold it tight while I made the first crimp in the sleeve. Then just before I installed the wings, I pulled the swaged ends of the cables out into the wings with pieces of rope that I had threaded through the wings with the help of a broom handle and tape.
After I had the wings attached and the outer ends of the cables attached to the bellcranks, I cut the cables to length and swaged the inboard ends behind the seats.
-------------- Original message ----------------------
Quote: | Ed, The cables must be threaded through the holes in the bellcrank, with a
thimble. It is not as easy as it sounds! If this is done outside the wing, the
bellcrank must be removed from its bracket. I suppose it would be easier to
reinstall the bellcrank than to try to do the swaging inside the wing, which
means reattaching the control rod to the aileron, also through the access hole.
While it is possible, I just found it much easier to do with the wing open.
Jay in Dallas
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--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive
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_________________ --
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL, Stratus Subaru.
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gboothe(at)calply.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 5:11 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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Brian is right on track. The correct part would be AS & S part No. MS20667.
It's a swaged on fork end that passes over the bell crank and merely gets an
AN Bolt with a hole for a cotter pin thru a castle nut, ie: AN3-8.
The best, cheapest, correct way to cut aircraft cable is with a cold chisel.
That's hard to do when the cable is in place. You can do what you want, but
it seems easiest to me to run the rope thru the wing, close the wing up,
finish the airframe, mount the wing and tail empanage, then measure all the
cables you will need.
This way you can easily build them on your work bench or order them made to
length. BTW, the other end gets the same part, with the addition of the
correct turnbuckle - safety wired.
I am building the HDS, not the XL, and have a different aileron
configuration, but it still uses a bell crank. Nor have I looked that far
into the plans. I am merely relying on ancient knowledge from my A&P days
over 20 years ago. The input of a current A&P would be welcomed.
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion
Tail done, working on wings....
The cables are not threaded through the holes in the bellcrank. The cables
attach to the bellcrank by means of cable shackles. If I recall correctly,
the cable shackle can be inserted through the cable loop and thimble after
it's swaged although it is easier to thread the cable through before
swaging.
I installed the thimble and shackle then threaded the cable through the
sleeve and shackle, pulled it tight and then clamped it with a small set of
vice grips to hold it tight while I made the first crimp in the sleeve. Then
just before I installed the wings, I pulled the swaged ends of the cables
out into the wings with pieces of rope that I had threaded through the wings
with the help of a broom handle and tape.
After I had the wings attached and the outer ends of the cables attached to
the bellcranks, I cut the cables to length and swaged the inboard ends
behind the seats.
-------------- Original message ----------------------
Quote: | Ed, The cables must be threaded through the holes in the bellcrank, with a
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Quote: | thimble. It is not as easy as it sounds! If this is done outside the
wing, the
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Quote: | bellcrank must be removed from its bracket. I suppose it would be easier
to
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Quote: | reinstall the bellcrank than to try to do the swaging inside the wing,
which
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Quote: | means reattaching the control rod to the aileron, also through the access
hole.
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Quote: | While it is possible, I just found it much easier to do with the wing
open.
|
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive
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dredmoody(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 8:11 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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Actually, you don't even have to tighten the shackle bolts inside the hatch.
Everything can be done in the daylight except bolting the bellcrank back
into its bracket. Feed the pre-thimbled cables through the lightening holes
as you suggested, insert the shackles, bolt them to the bellcrank under the
wing (outside the hatch). Then the bellcrank is bolted to its bracket inside
the hatch. I made my hatch bigger than the plans called for so it ought to
be reasonably easy.
Ed
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dredmoody(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2006 8:23 pm Post subject: Wing Building |
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Thanks. That's pretty much how I expect to do mine.
Ed
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