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kenryan
Joined: 20 Oct 2009
Posts: 426
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 Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 12:49 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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I am having second thoughts about the future nightmare I may have created by choosing screw terminal switches with their tiny screws and washers for my panel.
I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast on terminals.
I don't consider completely re-doing all the wiring to be a very attractive option.
My options seem to be:
1. just stick with what I have, ring terminals, screw connections to switches
2. cut off the terminals, butt splice on enough wire to allow for re-doing the ends with fast on terminals
3. come up with some other way of extending the wires, leaving the ring terminals intact, replacing the butt splice with some other type of connection to extend the wires
If I were to stick with what I have, the one good thing is that I will have better access to the back side of the panel than most have. But without doubt if I were doing it over I would use fast ons. So I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to introduce butt splices to all the wires for the convenience of fast on terminals?
My instincts are telling me to just go with what I have, as many airplanes have flown with switches that use screw terminals. But I sure wish that I had just used fast ons to begin with.
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billhuntersemail(at)gmail
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 1:09 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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The screw in terminals arr what. is provided with MIL spec switches.
If you have a EFIS screen then just remove the screen and then you will have a big hole to reach through... that is my strategy.
Bill Hunter
On May 27, 2016 1:56 PM, "Ken Ryan" <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote: | Quote: | I am having second thoughts about the future nightmare I may have created by choosing screw terminal switches with their tiny screws and washers for my panel.
I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast on terminals.
I don't consider completely re-doing all the wiring to be a very attractive option.
My options seem to be:
1. just stick with what I have, ring terminals, screw connections to switches
2. cut off the terminals, butt splice on enough wire to allow for re-doing the ends with fast on terminals
3. come up with some other way of extending the wires, leaving the ring terminals intact, replacing the butt splice with some other type of connection to extend the wires
If I were to stick with what I have, the one good thing is that I will have better access to the back side of the panel than most have. But without doubt if I were doing it over I would use fast ons. So I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to introduce butt splices to all the wires for the convenience of fast on terminals?
My instincts are telling me to just go with what I have, as many airplanes have flown with switches that use screw terminals. But I sure wish that I had just used fast ons to begin with.
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kenryan
Joined: 20 Oct 2009
Posts: 426
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 1:38 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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Good point.
On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 1:07 PM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com (billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: |
The screw in terminals arr what. is provided with MIL spec switches.
If you have a EFIS screen then just remove the screen and then you will have a big hole to reach through... that is my strategy.
Bill Hunter
On May 27, 2016 1:56 PM, "Ken Ryan" <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote: | Quote: | I am having second thoughts about the future nightmare I may have created by choosing screw terminal switches with their tiny screws and washers for my panel.
I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast on terminals.
I don't consider completely re-doing all the wiring to be a very attractive option.
My options seem to be:
1. just stick with what I have, ring terminals, screw connections to switches
2. cut off the terminals, butt splice on enough wire to allow for re-doing the ends with fast on terminals
3. come up with some other way of extending the wires, leaving the ring terminals intact, replacing the butt splice with some other type of connection to extend the wires
If I were to stick with what I have, the one good thing is that I will have better access to the back side of the panel than most have. But without doubt if I were doing it over I would use fast ons. So I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to introduce butt splices to all the wires for the convenience of fast on terminals?
My instincts are telling me to just go with what I have, as many airplanes have flown with switches that use screw terminals. But I sure wish that I had just used fast ons to begin with.
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fvalarm(at)rapidnet.net
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 1:44 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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My vote would be to stay with what you've got. If you need to replace a terminal in the future, you will have to splice or slightly reroute the wire for more length. It is advisable to leave a little service loop (large radius bend) from the wire loom to the terminal so the terminal can be cut off several times and still have enough wire length without making the wire so tight that there is strain at the terminal.
My .00 cents worth.
Bevan
From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ken Ryan
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 1:47 PM
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: AeroElectric-List: lengthening wires
I am having second thoughts about the future nightmare I may have created by choosing screw terminal switches with their tiny screws and washers for my panel.
I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast on terminals.
I don't consider completely re-doing all the wiring to be a very attractive option.
My options seem to be:
1. just stick with what I have, ring terminals, screw connections to switches
2. cut off the terminals, butt splice on enough wire to allow for re-doing the ends with fast on terminals
3. come up with some other way of extending the wires, leaving the ring terminals intact, replacing the butt splice with some other type of connection to extend the wires
If I were to stick with what I have, the one good thing is that I will have better access to the back side of the panel than most have. But without doubt if I were doing it over I would use fast ons. So I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to introduce butt splices to all the wires for the convenience of fast on terminals?
My instincts are telling me to just go with what I have, as many airplanes have flown with switches that use screw terminals. But I sure wish that I had just used fast ons to begin with.
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rlborger(at)mac.com
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 1:46 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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Ken,
Personally, I’d stick with the screw and ring since that’s how you are set up. They are a bit of a PITA to fiddly with but once in and with no strain on the wire they will be fine.
Should you choose to go to the fast-on route you can extend wires neatly using D-Sub pins & sockets. Use the machined/crimp D-Subs (http://www.bandc.aero/d-subpin.aspx & http://www.bandc.aero/d-subsocket.aspx). Cut your wire, crimp a plug onto the wire. Crimp a socket onto your extension wire. Join and cover with shrink tube and you have a nice, neat, extended wire.
I hope this helps.
Blue skies & tailwinds,Bob BorgerEuropa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP3705 Lynchburg Dr.Corinth, TX 76208-5331Cel: 817-992-1117rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)
On May 27, 2016, at 3:46 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
I am having second thoughts about the future nightmare I may have created by choosing screw terminal switches with their tiny screws and washers for my panel.
I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast on terminals.
I don't consider completely re-doing all the wiring to be a very attractive option.
My options seem to be:
1. just stick with what I have, ring terminals, screw connections to switches
2. cut off the terminals, butt splice on enough wire to allow for re-doing the ends with fast on terminals
3. come up with some other way of extending the wires, leaving the ring terminals intact, replacing the butt splice with some other type of connection to extend the wires
If I were to stick with what I have, the one good thing is that I will have better access to the back side of the panel than most have. But without doubt if I were doing it over I would use fast ons. So I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to introduce butt splices to all the wires for the convenience of fast on terminals?
My instincts are telling me to just go with what I have, as many airplanes have flown with switches that use screw terminals. But I sure wish that I had just used fast ons to begin with.
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kenryan
Joined: 20 Oct 2009
Posts: 426
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 2:03 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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Thanks guys. So far it's unanimous, stick with what I've got. Next airplane I will use fast ons. Live and learn.
On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 1:45 PM, Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Ken,
Personally, I’d stick with the screw and ring since that’s how you are set up. They are a bit of a PITA to fiddly with but once in and with no strain on the wire they will be fine.
Should you choose to go to the fast-on route you can extend wires neatly using D-Sub pins & sockets. Use the machined/crimp D-Subs (http://www.bandc.aero/d-subpin.aspx & http://www.bandc.aero/d-subsocket.aspx). Cut your wire, crimp a plug onto the wire. Crimp a socket onto your extension wire. Join and cover with shrink tube and you have a nice, neat, extended wire.
I hope this helps.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: [url=tel:817-992-1117]817-992-1117[/url]
rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)
On May 27, 2016, at 3:46 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
I am having second thoughts about the future nightmare I may have created by choosing screw terminal switches with their tiny screws and washers for my panel.
I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast on terminals.
I don't consider completely re-doing all the wiring to be a very attractive option.
My options seem to be:
1. just stick with what I have, ring terminals, screw connections to switches
2. cut off the terminals, butt splice on enough wire to allow for re-doing the ends with fast on terminals
3. come up with some other way of extending the wires, leaving the ring terminals intact, replacing the butt splice with some other type of connection to extend the wires
If I were to stick with what I have, the one good thing is that I will have better access to the back side of the panel than most have. But without doubt if I were doing it over I would use fast ons. So I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to introduce butt splices to all the wires for the convenience of fast on terminals?
My instincts are telling me to just go with what I have, as many airplanes have flown with switches that use screw terminals. But I sure wish that I had just used fast ons to begin with.
|
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 5:47 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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| Quote: | | Should you choose to go to the fast-on route you can extend wires neatly using D-Sub pins & sockets. Use the machined/crimp D-Subs pine. Cut your wire, crimp a plug onto the wire. Crimp a socket onto your extension wire. Join and cover with shrink tube and you have a nice, neat, extended wire. |
The d-sub pins under shrink are fine for
low current, 'service splices' . . . not
unlike the legacy knife splices. But for
permanent extensions of wires up to an
including the 10A class (18AWG) I'd
recommend the Po'Boy's solder sleeve
technique to extend the leads.
http://tinyurl.com/dgg2nb
Much more robust both mechanically and
electrically . . .
Bob . . .
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kenryan
Joined: 20 Oct 2009
Posts: 426
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 6:12 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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Thanks for that Bob. I like it. You have now given me more food for thought. I think the tiny screws and washers would be very frustrating to work with.
Sent from my Android. Sorry Steve. On May 27, 2016 17:54, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote: | Quote: | | Quote: | | Should you choose to go to the fast-on route you can extend wires neatly using D-Sub pins & sockets. Use the machined/crimp D-Subs pine. Cut your wire, crimp a plug onto the wire. Crimp a socket onto your extension wire. Join and cover with shrink tube and you have a nice, neat, extended wire. |
The d-sub pins under shrink are fine for
low current, 'service splices' . . . not
unlike the legacy knife splices. But for
permanent extensions of wires up to an
including the 10A class (18AWG) I'd
recommend the Po'Boy's solder sleeve
technique to extend the leads.
http://tinyurl.com/dgg2nb
Much more robust both mechanically and
electrically . . .
Bob . . .
|
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kenryan
Joined: 20 Oct 2009
Posts: 426
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 6:13 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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Question Bob ... for #20 wires would you choose the D-sub method or the poor boy's splice?
Sent from my Android. Sorry Steve. On May 27, 2016 18:10, "Ken Ryan" <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote: | Quote: |
Thanks for that Bob. I like it. You have now given me more food for thought. I think the tiny screws and washers would be very frustrating to work with.
Sent from my Android. Sorry Steve. On May 27, 2016 17:54, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote: | Quote: | | Quote: | | Should you choose to go to the fast-on route you can extend wires neatly using D-Sub pins & sockets. Use the machined/crimp D-Subs pine. Cut your wire, crimp a plug onto the wire. Crimp a socket onto your extension wire. Join and cover with shrink tube and you have a nice, neat, extended wire. |
The d-sub pins under shrink are fine for
low current, 'service splices' . . . not
unlike the legacy knife splices. But for
permanent extensions of wires up to an
including the 10A class (18AWG) I'd
recommend the Po'Boy's solder sleeve
technique to extend the leads.
http://tinyurl.com/dgg2nb
Much more robust both mechanically and
electrically . . .
Bob . . .
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art(at)zemon.name
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 6:37 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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Ken,
I tried Bob's Po'Boy's solder sleeve and found it very easy to do. My first one took just a couple of minutes, and that was with all the fooling around because it was my first time. I think I could do another in about 60 seconds. Give it a try with a piece of scrap wire.
-- Art Z.
On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 10:10 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: |
Thanks for that Bob. I like it. You have now given me more food for thought. I think the tiny screws and washers would be very frustrating to work with.
Sent from my Android. Sorry Steve. On May 27, 2016 17:54, "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com (nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelectric.com)> wrote: | Quote: | | Quote: | | Should you choose to go to the fast-on route you can extend wires neatly using D-Sub pins & sockets. Use the machined/crimp D-Subs pine. Cut your wire, crimp a plug onto the wire. Crimp a socket onto your extension wire. Join and cover with shrink tube and you have a nice, neat, extended wire. |
The d-sub pins under shrink are fine for
low current, 'service splices' . . . not
unlike the legacy knife splices. But for
permanent extensions of wires up to an
including the 10A class (18AWG) I'd
recommend the Po'Boy's solder sleeve
technique to extend the leads.
http://tinyurl.com/dgg2nb
Much more robust both mechanically and
electrically . . .
Bob . . .
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--
http://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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| Posted: Fri May 27, 2016 8:59 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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At 09:12 PM 5/27/2016, you wrote:
| Quote: | | Question Bob ... for #20 wires would you choose the D-sub method or the poor boy's splice? |
The d-subs under shrink were a more compact
alternative to the knife spice as a field
service disconnect . . . not so much as a
permanent splice. Further, a mated pair
of pins is MUCH more expensive than the
faux solder sleeve and subject to disconnect
if placed in too much tension.
Bob . . .
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bakerocb
Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 727
Location: FAIRFAX VA
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| Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 3:40 am Post subject: lengthening wires |
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5/28/2016
Ken Ryan wrote: “I sure wish that I had just used fast ons to begin with.”
Hello Ken, Here is another solution: Convert your ring terminals to a faston type male tab with an adapter.
The adapter gets fastened (intended permanently) onto the switch using the screw and you then have a male faston available to connect to with a female faston crimped onto the end of the wire. The adapters come in both straight and 90 degree versions.
Poke around a bit on the internet, I bet that you can find suitable adapters. Here is one result.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ring+terminal+to+male+tab&rlz=1C1AFAB_en___US560&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=622&tbm=isch&imgil=l2SoyWV-j8TUFM%253A%253Brpzrfe0opjUP_M%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.pegasusautoracing.com%25252Fproductdetails.asp%25253FRecID%2525253D12915&source=iu&pf=m&fir=l2SoyWV-j8TUFM%253A%252Crpzrfe0opjUP_M%252C_&usg=__GQIeu93gvLfh21C-3IbiB5J4zW8%3D&ved=0ahUKEwj21Z7c0_zMAhWE5oMKHXIkDAcQyjcINg&ei=Wn9JV_bAMoTNjwTyyLA4#imgrc=l2SoyWV-j8TUFM%3A
OC
==========================
Time: 01:49:26 PM PST US
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Subject: lengthening wires
I am having second thoughts about the future nightmare I may have created
by choosing screw terminal switches with their tiny screws and washers for
my panel.
I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and
there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast
on terminals.
I don't consider completely re-doing all the wiring to be a very attractive
option.
My options seem to be:
1. just stick with what I have, ring terminals, screw connections to
switches
2. cut off the terminals, butt splice on enough wire to allow for re-doing
the ends with fast on terminals
3. come up with some other way of extending the wires, leaving the ring
terminals intact, replacing the butt splice with some other type of
connection to extend the wires
If I were to stick with what I have, the one good thing is that I will have
better access to the back side of the panel than most have. But without
doubt if I were doing it over I would use fast ons. So I'm trying to decide
if it's worth it to introduce butt splices to all the wires for the
convenience of fast on terminals?
My instincts are telling me to just go with what I have, as many airplanes
have flown with switches that use screw terminals. But I sure wish that I
had just used fast ons to begin with.
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jmjones2000(at)mindspring
Guest
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| Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 4:56 am Post subject: lengthening wires |
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Be careful not to adopt the government's strategy here. "If it's not broken, fix it until it is".
If it's working for you, keep letting it work for you until it breaks. Then fix it.
Justin
On May 27, 2016, at 14:02, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Thanks guys. So far it's unanimous, stick with what I've got. Next airplane I will use fast ons. Live and learn.
On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 1:45 PM, Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Ken,
Personally, I’d stick with the screw and ring since that’s how you are set up. They are a bit of a PITA to fiddly with but once in and with no strain on the wire they will be fine.
Should you choose to go to the fast-on route you can extend wires neatly using D-Sub pins & sockets. Use the machined/crimp D-Subs (http://www.bandc.aero/d-subpin.aspx &http://www.bandc.aero/d-subsocket.aspx). Cut your wire, crimp a plug onto the wire. Crimp a socket onto your extension wire. Join and cover with shrink tube and you have a nice, neat, extended wire.
I hope this helps.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: [url=tel:817-992-1117]817-992-1117[/url]
rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)
On May 27, 2016, at 3:46 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
I am having second thoughts about the future nightmare I may have created by choosing screw terminal switches with their tiny screws and washers for my panel.
I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast on terminals.
I don't consider completely re-doing all the wiring to be a very attractive option.
My options seem to be:
1. just stick with what I have, ring terminals, screw connections to switches
2. cut off the terminals, butt splice on enough wire to allow for re-doing the ends with fast on terminals
3. come up with some other way of extending the wires, leaving the ring terminals intact, replacing the butt splice with some other type of connection to extend the wires
If I were to stick with what I have, the one good thing is that I will have better access to the back side of the panel than most have. But without doubt if I were doing it over I would use fast ons. So I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to introduce butt splices to all the wires for the convenience of fast on terminals?
My instincts are telling me to just go with what I have, as many airplanes have flown with switches that use screw terminals. But I sure wish that I had just used fast ons to begin with.
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billhuntersemail(at)gmail
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| Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 5:35 am Post subject: lengthening wires |
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Bob Borger,
Cleaver idea... use the D sub pins without the connector housing to splice individual wires... cool idea.
Bill Hunter
On May 28, 2016 06:03, "Justin Jones" <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com (jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com)> wrote: | Quote: |
Be careful not to adopt the government's strategy here. "If it's not broken, fix it until it is".
If it's working for you, keep letting it work for you until it breaks. Then fix it.
Justin
On May 27, 2016, at 14:02, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Thanks guys. So far it's unanimous, stick with what I've got. Next airplane I will use fast ons. Live and learn.
On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 1:45 PM, Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Ken,
Personally, I’d stick with the screw and ring since that’s how you are set up. They are a bit of a PITA to fiddly with but once in and with no strain on the wire they will be fine.
Should you choose to go to the fast-on route you can extend wires neatly using D-Sub pins & sockets. Use the machined/crimp D-Subs (http://www.bandc.aero/d-subpin.aspx & http://www.bandc.aero/d-subsocket.aspx). Cut your wire, crimp a plug onto the wire. Crimp a socket onto your extension wire. Join and cover with shrink tube and you have a nice, neat, extended wire.
I hope this helps.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: [url=tel:817-992-1117]817-992-1117[/url]
rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)
On May 27, 2016, at 3:46 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
I am having second thoughts about the future nightmare I may have created by choosing screw terminal switches with their tiny screws and washers for my panel.
I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast on terminals.
I don't consider completely re-doing all the wiring to be a very attractive option.
My options seem to be:
1. just stick with what I have, ring terminals, screw connections to switches
2. cut off the terminals, butt splice on enough wire to allow for re-doing the ends with fast on terminals
3. come up with some other way of extending the wires, leaving the ring terminals intact, replacing the butt splice with some other type of connection to extend the wires
If I were to stick with what I have, the one good thing is that I will have better access to the back side of the panel than most have. But without doubt if I were doing it over I would use fast ons. So I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to introduce butt splices to all the wires for the convenience of fast on terminals?
My instincts are telling me to just go with what I have, as many airplanes have flown with switches that use screw terminals. But I sure wish that I had just used fast ons to begin with.
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ARGOLDMAN(at)aol.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 6:23 am Post subject: lengthening wires |
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If you are going to do this, use the non-flexible heatshrink tubing.
What about just soldering the wires (20 ga and larger)
Rich
In a message dated 5/28/2016 8:35:56 A.M. Central Daylight Time, billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com writes:
| Quote: |
Bob Borger,
Cleaver idea... use the D sub pins without the connector housing to splice individual wires... cool idea.
Bill Hunter
On May 28, 2016 06:03, "Justin Jones" <jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com (jmjones2000(at)mindspring.com)> wrote: | Quote: |
Be careful not to adopt the government's strategy here. "If it's not broken, fix it until it is".
If it's working for you, keep letting it work for you until it breaks. Then fix it.
Justin
On May 27, 2016, at 14:02, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Thanks guys. So far it's unanimous, stick with what I've got. Next airplane I will use fast ons. Live and learn.
On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 1:45 PM, Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Ken,
Personally, I’d stick with the screw and ring since that’s how you are set up. They are a bit of a PITA to fiddly with but once in and with no strain on the wire they will be fine.
Should you choose to go to the fast-on route you can extend wires neatly using D-Sub pins & sockets. Use the machined/crimp D-Subs (http://www.bandc.aero/d-subpin.aspx & http://www.bandc.aero/d-subsocket.aspx). Cut your wire, crimp a plug onto the wire. Crimp a socket onto your extension wire. Join and cover with shrink tube and you have a nice, neat, extended wire.
I hope this helps.
Blue skies & tailwinds,
Bob Borger
Europa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).
Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208-5331
Cel: [url=tel:817-992-1117]817-992-1117[/url]
rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)
On May 27, 2016, at 3:46 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
I am having second thoughts about the future nightmare I may have created by choosing screw terminal switches with their tiny screws and washers for my panel.
I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast on terminals.
I don't consider completely re-doing all the wiring to be a very attractive option.
My options seem to be:
1. just stick with what I have, ring terminals, screw connections to switches
2. cut off the terminals, butt splice on enough wire to allow for re-doing the ends with fast on terminals
3. come up with some other way of extending the wires, leaving the ring terminals intact, replacing the butt splice with some other type of connection to extend the wires
If I were to stick with what I have, the one good thing is that I will have better access to the back side of the panel than most have. But without doubt if I were doing it over I would use fast ons. So I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to introduce butt splices to all the wires for the convenience of fast on terminals?
My instincts are telling me to just go with what I have, as many airplanes have flown with switches that use screw terminals. But I sure wish that I had just used fast ons to begin with.
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rlborger(at)mac.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 7:38 am Post subject: lengthening wires |
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Bill,
Works great as long as the wire is well supported and there’s no strain or tension. It’s a very neat solution that doesn’t make a big knot like an in-line crimp splice.
Solder sleeves also work well but I find them a bit fussier to make a nice neat join. They are the way to go for unsupported wire or wire were there is significant tension on the wire.
Blue skies & tailwinds,Bob BorgerEuropa XS Tri, Rotax 914, Airmaster C/S Prop (75 hrs).Little Toot Sport Biplane, Lycoming Thunderbolt AEIO-320 EXP3705 Lynchburg Dr.Corinth, TX 76208-5331Cel: 817-992-1117rlborger(at)mac.com (rlborger(at)mac.com)
On May 28, 2016, at 8:33 AM, William Hunter <billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com (billhuntersemail(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
Bob Borger,
Cleaver idea... use the D sub pins without the connector housing to splice individual wires... cool idea.
Bill Hunter
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bakerocb
Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 727
Location: FAIRFAX VA
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| Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 1:34 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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5/28/2016
Hello Ken, Thanks for the quick response, but your comments puzzle me. Perhaps you don’t understand the adapter that I propose and how it is used.
You wrote:
1) “.... make my perceived problem worse by doubling the number of tiny screws and tiny washers located behind the panel.”
a) The adapter that I propose is nothing more than a small (usually flat)** piece of metal with a hole in one end and a male faston type tab on the other. See here:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/images/L/4169-003.JPG
The hole end of the adapter is fastened to the terminal on the back of the switch using the same screw (and washer if desired) that would be used to fasten a wire’s ring terminal
to the switch. No extra screws or washers are involved.
b) The fastening of the adapter to the terminal on the back of the switch (preferably before the switch is installed in the panel) by means of the screw is intended to be a one time event,
never to be loosened or removed from that time on. From that time on any connection, or disconnection, of a wire to the switch terminal is made by pushing on, or pulling off, ## a female
faston type connector which has been crimped onto the end of a wire.
2) “I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast
on terminals.”
Realize that installing an available manufactured adapter actually extends the length of the terminal on the back of the switch a small distance. Maybe enough to cut the ring terminal off the end of the wire and replace it with a female faston type connector?
If there is not enough length gained with an available manufactured adapter (or the holes in the manufactured adapters are not of the right size) to go the above route, then you can make your own faston type male adapters by buying suitably dimensioned hobby shop metal strips similar to this:
http://www.micromark.com/solid-brass-strip-064-inch-thick-x-1and4-inch-wide-x-12-inches-long-pkg-of-8,7025.html
and make your own long-enough male faston adapters.
Does this help? Any questions?
OC
**PS: Adapters that are bent 90 degrees in the middle can be used if that change of direction is more suitable for the eventual connection of the female faston type connector that has
been crimped onto the end of a wire.
##PS: Sometimes the grip of a female faston type connector is so firmly gripped onto the male tab that it is very difficult to just pull the female connector off by hand. In that case one has to resort to a tool such as a screw driver to assist in prying the female connector free.
==============================================
From: Ken Ryan (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 11:43 AM
To: Owen Baker (bakerocb(at)cox.net)
Subject: Re: lengthening wires
Thanks Owen, I didn't know such adapters exist, but using them would actually make my perceived problem worse by doubling the number of tiny screws and tiny washers located behind the panel. Interesting information nevertheless.
=================================
On Sat, May 28, 2016 at 3:39 AM, Owen Baker <bakerocb(at)cox.net (bakerocb(at)cox.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | 5/28/2016
Ken Ryan wrote: “I sure wish that I had just used fast ons to begin with.”
Hello Ken, Here is another solution: Convert your ring terminals to a faston type male tab with an adapter.
The adapter gets fastened (intended permanently) onto the switch using the screw and you then have a male faston available to connect to with a female faston crimped onto the end of the wire. The adapters come in both straight and 90 degree versions.
Poke around a bit on the internet, I bet that you can find suitable adapters. Here is one result.
https://www.google.com/search?q=ring+terminal+to+male+tab&rlz=1C1AFAB_en___US560&espv=2&biw=1280&bih=622&tbm=isch&imgil=l2SoyWV-j8TUFM%253A%253Brpzrfe0opjUP_M%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.pegasusautoracing.com%25252Fproductdetails.asp%25253FRecID%2525253D12915&source=iu&pf=m&fir=l2SoyWV-j8TUFM%253A%252Crpzrfe0opjUP_M%252C_&usg=__GQIeu93gvLfh21C-3IbiB5J4zW8%3D&ved=0ahUKEwj21Z7c0_zMAhWE5oMKHXIkDAcQyjcINg&ei=Wn9JV_bAMoTNjwTyyLA4#imgrc=l2SoyWV-j8TUFM%3A
OC
==========================
Time: 01:49:26 PM PST US
From: Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com>
Subject: lengthening wires
I am having second thoughts about the future nightmare I may have created
by choosing screw terminal switches with their tiny screws and washers for
my panel.
I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and
there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast
on terminals.
I don't consider completely re-doing all the wiring to be a very attractive
option.
My options seem to be:
1. just stick with what I have, ring terminals, screw connections to
switches
2. cut off the terminals, butt splice on enough wire to allow for re-doing
the ends with fast on terminals
3. come up with some other way of extending the wires, leaving the ring
terminals intact, replacing the butt splice with some other type of
connection to extend the wires
If I were to stick with what I have, the one good thing is that I will have
better access to the back side of the panel than most have. But without
doubt if I were doing it over I would use fast ons. So I'm trying to decide
if it's worth it to introduce butt splices to all the wires for the
convenience of fast on terminals?
My instincts are telling me to just go with what I have, as many airplanes
have flown with switches that use screw terminals. But I sure wish that I
had just used fast ons to begin with.
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bakerocb
Joined: 15 Jan 2006
Posts: 727
Location: FAIRFAX VA
|
| Posted: Sat May 28, 2016 7:56 pm Post subject: lengthening wires |
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|
5/28/2016
Hello Ken, Thanks for the response. You wrote: “Then, in addition, there would be an equal number of screws and washers used to attach the other fast on adapter to the ring terminal on the wire.”**
Nope. Please note carefully the distinction between the use of the word adapter (for the male end of this connection) and the use of the word connector (for the female end of this connection) in my writing. Quoting from paragraph 2 b of my May 28, 2016 at 1:32 PM email (which is copied below):
“From that time on any connection, or disconnection, of a wire to the switch terminal is made by pushing on, or pulling off, ## a female faston type connector which has been crimped onto the end of a wire.”
The existing ring terminal on the wire is cut off. The wire is stripped and a female faston type connector (not any kind of adapter) is crimped onto the wire. Then, in order to connect a wire to the switch, that female faston type connector is pushed onto the male faston adapter that you have fastened onto the switch terminal using the originally provided single screw (and washer if desired).
Here is a typical female faston type connector that gets crimped onto the end of the wire:
http://www.steinair.com/product/18-22-ga-red-faston-14/
Here is a male faston type adapter that gets fastened onto the switch terminal with a single screw (and washer if desired):
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/images/L/4169-003.JPG
Note that there are many different manufacturers of faston (push together) type fasteners, many different sizes of those type fasteners, and many different names used for those type fasteners. You should ensure that: a) the tab on the male adapter and the push on portion of the female connector are size compatible; b) the hole in the male adapter is suitable for the screw size on the switch terminal; and c) the crimp side of the female connector is suitable for the wire size that you are using.
If wire length is still a problem in your mind please read item 2 in my May 28, 2016 at 1:32 PM email (copied below).
Any questions?
OC
**PS: I suppose that there may exist such a female faston type type adapter that could be used in the fashion that you describe, but I have not gone looking for any and I don’t suggest that any should be used to solve your problem.
========================
From: Ken Ryan (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)
Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 5:59 PM
To: Owen Baker (bakerocb(at)cox.net)
Subject: Re: lengthening wires
Thanks Owen, I do believe that I understand what you are saying, but don't you see that it would result in twice as many screws and washers? I say this because the original number of screws and washers (those that would have been used to connect the ring terminal to the switch) would be used to connect the fast on adapter to the switch. Then, in addition, there would be an equal number of screws and washers used to attach the other fast on adapter to the ring terminal on the wire. So if I understood you correctly the first time, that would be twice as many screws and washers. – Ken
======================================
On Sat, May 28, 2016 at 1:32 PM, Owen Baker <bakerocb(at)cox.net (bakerocb(at)cox.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | 5/28/2016
Hello Ken, Thanks for the quick response, but your comments puzzle me. Perhaps you don’t understand the adapter that I propose and how it is used.
You wrote:
1) “.... make my perceived problem worse by doubling the number of tiny screws and tiny washers located behind the panel.”
a) The adapter that I propose is nothing more than a small (usually flat)** piece of metal with a hole in one end and a male faston type tab on the other. See here:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/images/L/4169-003.JPG
The hole end of the adapter is fastened to the terminal on the back of the switch using the same screw (and washer if desired) that would be used to fasten a wire’s ring terminal
to the switch. No extra screws or washers are involved.
b) The fastening of the adapter to the terminal on the back of the switch (preferably before the switch is installed in the panel) by means of the screw is intended to be a one time event,
never to be loosened or removed from that time on. From that time on any connection, or disconnection, of a wire to the switch terminal is made by pushing on, or pulling off, ## a female
faston type connector which has been crimped onto the end of a wire.
2) “I have already completed most of the wiring with ring terminal ends, and there is not enough slack to just cut them off and replace them with fast
on terminals.”
Realize that installing an available manufactured adapter actually extends the length of the terminal on the back of the switch a small distance. Maybe enough to cut the ring terminal off the end of the wire and replace it with a female faston type connector?
If there is not enough length gained with an available manufactured adapter (or the holes in the manufactured adapters are not of the right size) to go the above route, then you can make your own faston type male adapters by buying suitably dimensioned hobby shop metal strips similar to this:
http://www.micromark.com/solid-brass-strip-064-inch-thick-x-1and4-inch-wide-x-12-inches-long-pkg-of-8,7025.html
and make your own long-enough male faston adapters.
Does this help? Any questions?
OC
**PS: Adapters that are bent 90 degrees in the middle can be used if that change of direction is more suitable for the eventual connection of the female faston type connector that has
been crimped onto the end of a wire.
##PS: Sometimes the grip of a female faston type connector is so firmly gripped onto the male tab that it is very difficult to just pull the female connector off by hand. In that case one has to resort to a tool such as a screw driver to assist in prying the female connector free.
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