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ceengland7(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 12:05 pm Post subject: fuel tank residue ID? Pull-start wimp? |
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Anyone have an idea on the brown goo in this long-unused Twinstar tank? It's about the color and consistency of old-school Permatex gasket sealant, and just about as sticky. A bit of E-free mogas is marinating it now, and it seems to be softening.Â
Old 2stroke oil? Actual mogas residue?
Also, need some perspective on a pull start Rotax 503, for someone who's prior 2stroke experience is Lawn Boy & weed eaters. Am I just so over the hill that I can't pull it through more than one compression stroke? With plugs out, it seems to spin ok, but it certainly doesn't free-wheel. It has the gearbox mounted, but no prop.
Thanks,
Charlie
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wakataka
Joined: 11 Aug 2012 Posts: 48
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 1:03 pm Post subject: Re: fuel tank residue ID? Pull-start wimp? |
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That junk looks a lot like what you might see in the bottom of a float bowl that's been sitting for a few years. I'd toss that tank and get a new one. Just as old gas turns to varnish, old plastic gets brittle and even though you might be able to clean that tank out, it's likely a lot more prone to cracking than a fuel tank should be.
You can definitely get workout with pull start 503, and with no prop mounted there's less 'flywheel' effect so each compression stroke is more noticeable on the pull rope, but it should still be possible to spin the engine through several compression strokes with a good strong pull. Do you have the right amount of rope on the pulley? Are you able to pull it straight out of starter or do you have to pull it at an angle so the rope rubs on the ferrule? If the rope is rubbing on the ferrule it can bind and make it a lot harder to pull.
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_________________ There is something fascinating about science. One gets such wholesale returns of conjecture out of such a trifling investment of fact.
Mark Twain |
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John Hauck
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Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 4639 Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 1:06 pm Post subject: fuel tank residue ID? Pull-start wimp? |
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Put a prop on it. The small flywheel doesn't have enough inertia to overcome the compression.
The nasty stuff in the tank is old gas and oil.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2017 3:05 PM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: fuel tank residue ID? Pull-start wimp?
Anyone have an idea on the brown goo in this long-unused Twinstar tank? It's about the color and consistency of old-school Permatex gasket sealant, and just about as sticky. A bit of E-free mogas is marinating it now, and it seems to be softening.
Old 2stroke oil? Actual mogas residue?
Also, need some perspective on a pull start Rotax 503, for someone who's prior 2stroke experience is Lawn Boy & weed eaters. Am I just so over the hill that I can't pull it through more than one compression stroke? With plugs out, it seems to spin ok, but it certainly doesn't free-wheel. It has the gearbox mounted, but no prop.
Thanks,
Charlie
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_________________ John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama |
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gdhelton(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 2:34 pm Post subject: fuel tank residue ID? Pull-start wimp? |
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You sure got good info. from that post. Throw the tank away. It not worth trying to save it. That's a nasty looking tank.
I had a 503 on my Twinstar MKII. They're a bear to pull start. I personally used to prop start mine. Full choke, throttle at idle. Make sure both wheels are chocked. Let me stress that' " throttle idle". I still prefer to prop start my little 377. Just my thing. If it's been awhile since it was last run adjust idle screw out until the carb slide is completely seated at the button then lift the slide up by the throttle cable. Adjust the idle screw in two complete turns. You might check the plunger seat on the choke. They tend to deteriorate if they sit to o many years closed. I speak from past experience.
Have a great day!
On Jul 7, 2017, at 5:06 PM, John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com (jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com)> wrote:
Quote: | <![endif]--> <![endif]-->
Put a prop on it. The small flywheel doesn't have enough inertia to overcome the compression.
The nasty stuff in the tank is old gas and oil.
john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2017 3:05 PM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com (kolb-list(at)matronics.com)
Subject: fuel tank residue ID? Pull-start wimp?
Anyone have an idea on the brown goo in this long-unused Twinstar tank? It's about the color and consistency of old-school Permatex gasket sealant, and just about as sticky. A bit of E-free mogas is marinating it now, and it seems to be softening.
Old 2stroke oil? Actual mogas residue?
Also, need some perspective on a pull start Rotax 503, for someone who's prior 2stroke experience is Lawn Boy & weed eaters. Am I just so over the hill that I can't pull it through more than one compression stroke? With plugs out, it seems to spin ok, but it certainly doesn't free-wheel. It has the gearbox mounted, but no prop.
Thanks,
Charlie
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ceengland7(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2017 2:40 pm Post subject: fuel tank residue ID? Pull-start wimp? |
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On Fri, Jul 7, 2017 at 4:03 PM, wakataka <wakataka(at)charter.net (wakataka(at)charter.net)> wrote:
Quote: | --> Kolb-List message posted by: "wakataka" <wakataka(at)charter.net (wakataka(at)charter.net)>
That junk looks a lot like what you might see in the bottom of a float bowl that's been sitting for a few years. I'd toss that tank and get a new one. Just as old gas turns to varnish, old plastic gets brittle and even though you might be able to clean that tank out, it's likely a lot more prone to cracking than a fuel tank should be.
You can definitely get workout with pull start 503, and with no prop mounted there's less 'flywheel' effect so each compression stroke is more noticeable on the pull rope, but it should still be possible to spin the engine through several compression strokes with a good strong pull. Do you have the right amount of rope on the pulley? Are you able to pull it straight out of starter or do you have to pull it at an angle so the rope rubs on the ferrule? If the rope is rubbing on the ferrule it can bind and make it a lot harder to pull.
--------
There is something fascinating about science. One gets such wholesale returns of conjecture out of such a trifling investment of fact.
Mark Twain
| Thank you to John and wakataka.Â
Never thought about the prop as flywheel, when it's on the other end of a reduction drive. I'll get 'er on. The rope goes down & slightly aft to a flex-mounted pulley mounted on the a/c frame, then horizontal through the 'eye' that's welded to the forward frame member, above the pilot's head. There seems to be plenty of rope in the recoil mechanism; I can pull slowly & get 7 or 8 compression strokes before the rope handle is out in front of the rudder pedals. Obviously no way to pull that far in a single pull; just shows there's plenty of rope.
Anyone know if the starter/ring gear from a Ski-Doo/Moto-Ski, etc will fit the a/c version of a 503? There are a couple on ebay now at a bit less than oxy-sucking prices.
Charlie
I'll definitely check the tank for cracking tendencies. It's been sitting for years, but has been inside.
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baberdk
Joined: 23 Jan 2014 Posts: 53 Location: East Moline, Il
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2017 12:14 pm Post subject: fuel tank residue ID? Pull-start wimp? |
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If you pull a rotax with the plugs out, make sure you have the ignition primaries grounded. I cranked mine over with the starter and the plugs out, and in that position, the ignition is in the run position. It shorted my coils and they were $700.
Respectfully,
Dennis Baber
baberdk(at)gmail.com (baberdk(at)gmail.com)
Stay Curious
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ceengland7(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 08, 2017 12:42 pm Post subject: fuel tank residue ID? Pull-start wimp? |
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Ouch. I haven't tried to really spin it hard with the rope (not sure I could), and now I know not to try. Thanks for the heads-up.
Charlie
On Sat, Jul 8, 2017 at 3:13 PM, Denny Baber <baberdk(at)gmail.com (baberdk(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
Quote: | If you pull a rotax with the plugs out, make sure you have the ignition primaries grounded. I cranked mine over with the starter and the plugs out, and in that position, the ignition is in the run position. It shorted my coils and they were $700.
Respectfully,
Dennis Baber
baberdk(at)gmail.com (baberdk(at)gmail.com)
Stay Curious
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