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Water pipe replacement

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graeme bird

Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 434

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 6:32 am Post subject: Water pipe replacement

I have three problems. I decided to replace my 912 water pipes with silicon.

1. The rotax spring clips won't go over the silicon at the knuckle (16 mm ash pipe - presumably I need to buy new clips.

2. Top back stb looks like I need to buy a bend

3 access to water pump end, particularly starboard side - tricky; should I remove the water pump ? Or exhaust and oil tank. All the pipes look great, (remind me why I started this).

_________________
Graeme Bird
kit4 (Wagstaff) TBD
Kit3 G-CLXU (Gregory) mono 914 xs Woodcomp
Kit2 G-PATS - (kesterton) Mono Classic 912 warpdrive
Kit 1 G-UMPY - Mono Classic/XS 912S, Woodcomp G(@)gdbmk.co.uk

Burrilla

Joined: 25 Apr 2015
Posts: 187

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 7:05 am Post subject: Water pipe replacement

I found this company useful for hose clamps of all types.



https://www.hcl-clamping.co.uk/

I replaced my hoses a couple years back and didnâ€™t remove any components or water pumps so doable. The only shaped pipes I used were those into and out of the water pump all the rest from straight stuff.

Alan

G-OBJT



Sent from my iPad



On 13 Jan 2018, at 14:32, graeme bird <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk (graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk)> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  --> Europa-List message posted by: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk (graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk)>



I have three problems. I decided to replace my 912 water pipes with silicon.

1. The rotax spring clips won't go over the silicon at the knuckle (16 mm ash pipe - presumably I need to buy new clips.

2. Top back stb looks like I need to buy a bend

3 access to water pump end, particularly starboard side - tricky; should I remove the water pump ? Or exhaust and oil tank. All the pipes look great, (remind me why I started this).



--------

Graeme Bird

G-UMPY -  Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis AP, PAW, PFLARM core, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP-5, Aera500, SD on Nexus, SmartA3

325 hours &amp; 6 years on the Mono, 930 total

g(at)gdbmk.co.uk





Read this topic online here:



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graeme bird

Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 434

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 2:55 pm Post subject: Re: Water pipe replacement

I have all the old pipes off (would have been easier with the cable based tool that arrived this afternoon ! In the end I removed the carbs, inlet manifolds, oil tank and exhaust to gain good access.

I want to retain the rotax constant compression spring clips but I still have the issue that they don't expand enough to go over the silicon on the knuckle.

The ASH silicon pipe (3 ply) is 4.5 thick and the knuckle 19 so they need to open at least 28mm. The clips are marked TS and 25 and open 25 mm max dia.

If people have them 'slipping on' then either they are using thinner walled pipe (say 1 ply), different clips (say CBT-25.2 -W1 from HCL or using worm type clips.

Ivor

Joined: 23 Jul 2015
Posts: 51

Posted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 9:53 pm Post subject: Re: Water pipe replacement

if itâ€™s only a small amount you need to fit your existing clamps then you can remove a small amount of metal  from the tang on the clips to allow slightly more expansion ,

but there are plenty of slightly larger sizes on ebay and the like,

google is your friend

Duncan McFadyean

Joined: 18 Jan 2011
Posts: 222

Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 1:46 am Post subject: Water pipe replacement

Or packing the new slimmer tube with a bit of split hose under the old clip, to bring it back to the outer diameter that the clip will work with. You could argue that this reduces the clamping pressure, but may also improve the surviability of the silicone hose by preventing the clip from eating into it.

Duncan McF

 

  	  Quote: 	
		   ----Original Message----

From: graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk

Date: 13/01/2018 22:55

To: <europa-list(at)matronics.com>

Subj: Re: Water pipe replacement



--> Europa-List message posted by: "graeme bird" <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk>



I have all the old pipes off (would have been easier with the cable based tool that arrived this afternoon ! In the end I removed the carbs, inlet manifolds, oil tank and exhaust to gain good access.

I want to retain the rotax constant compression spring clips but I still have the issue that they don't expand enough to go over the silicon on the knuckle.

The ASH silicon pipe (3 ply) is 4.5 thick and the knuckle 19 so they need to open at least 28mm. The clips are marked TS and 25 and open 25 mm max dia.

If people have them 'slipping on' then either they are using thinner walled pipe (say 1 ply), different clips (say CBT-25.2 -W1 from HCL or using worm type clips.



--------

Graeme Bird

G-UMPY -  Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis AP, PAW, PFLARM core, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP-5, Aera500, SD on Nexus, SmartA3

325 hours &amp; 6 years on the Mono, 930 total

g(at)gdbmk.co.uk





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graeme bird

Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 434

Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 2:19 am Post subject: Re: Water pipe replacement

The new tube is fatter, not thinner. It looks like I can grind off the tabs that limit the opening (these don't seem to be there on some engines) this should allow another 1.5 mm diameter which looks enough.

Burrilla

Joined: 25 Apr 2015
Posts: 187

Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 2:25 am Post subject: Water pipe replacement

Might I suggest that you put the clip on the metal pipe first and then push the hose into it. That way you donâ€™t have to try and get the clip over the knuckle.



Alan

G-OBJT



 	  Quote: 	
		   On 14 Jan 2018, at 10:19, graeme bird <graeme(at)gdbmk.co.uk> wrote:

 

 

 

 The new tube is fatter, not thinner. It looks like I can grind off the tabs that limit the opening (these don't seem to be there on some engines) this should allow another 1.5 mm diameter which looks enough.

 

 --------

 Graeme Bird

 G-UMPY -  Mono Classic/XS FFW 912S, Woodcomp 3000/3W CS, trutrak Gemini 2 axis AP, PAW, PFLARM core, ads-b out, 8.33khz, mode S, FP-5, Aera500, SD on Nexus, SmartA3

 325 hours &amp; 6 years on the Mono, 930 total

 g(at)gdbmk.co.uk

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=477271#477271

Nigel Graham

Joined: 23 Mar 2017
Posts: 36
Location: Winchester - UK

Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:50 am Post subject: Re: Water pipe replacement

Hi Graham,

The trick is to hold the clamps open with Mole grips (over centre and locked) then you can easily manipulate the clamps into place on the alloy pipe stubs BEFORE you slide the pipes on. With a bit of dexterity, you can slide the pipe on fully while sliding the clamp back over it. Then release the Mole grips. 

Always make sure you leave the "tangs" in such a position that you can get the Mole grips on again, should you ever need to move them.

Works a treat for me!



Nigel

erichdtrombley(at)juno.co
Guest

Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 7:52 am Post subject: Water pipe replacement

Graeme wrote, â€œI want to retain the rotax constant compression spring clips but I still have the issue that they don't expand enough to go over the silicon on the knuckle.â€



I found that If I slipped the hose clamp onto the nipple first (of the component you are attaching the hose to), I could then expand the hose clamp and slide the new silicone tubing onto the nipple and under the hose clamp.  Then just release the clamp.  No need to slide the clamp over the knuckle.  Also, if I recall correctly, I applied a film of coolant (Evans in my case) to the inside of the hose to aid in sliding it over the nipple.



Good luck.

Erich Trombley

N28ET

Classic Mono 914

____________________________________________________________

We Say GoodBye To Sally Fields

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graeme bird

Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 434

Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 8:32 am Post subject: Re: Water pipe replacement

Sorted now. I managed to grind off some of the tab that limits rotax clip opening and they can now be put on from the tube end. A little washing up liquid and some pliers with a slot ground in each jaw about 3mm up helped.

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