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art(at)zemon.name
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 Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 1:34 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
Is there a way to repair it?
   -- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
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art(at)zemon.name
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 2:11 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
   -- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote: | Quote: | Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
Is there a way to repair it?
   -- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
|
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ceengland7(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 2:23 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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No image attached; did you intend to send one? In any case, if it's a single conductor with no shield, you'd have several options. Replace completely (best & most hassle), or snip out the bad section & replace with a good length of wire, using butt splice crimps or lap solder joints with heat shrink, or cut it once near the damage & slide heat shrink over it, long enough to cover damage and the repaired cut, or, wrap the damaged area with quality electrical tape.Â
Those are options that came to mind quickly, more or less in descending order of desirability. The last, while not sounding great, could be done in a fashion that would be 'safe and effective'. Just not pretty. It worked for decades in 110/220 volt house wiring to make up joints in electrical boxes, before crimps & wire nuts became common.
Charlie
 Virus-free. www.avast.com [url=#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2][/url]
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 3:33 PM, Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
| Quote: | Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
Is there a way to repair it?
   -- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
|
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ceengland7(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 2:29 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Just saw the pic. If that's a subD connector with removable pins, use a pin extractor to back out the damaged wire, cover the damaged area with heat shrink, shrink it, and re-insert the terminal in the connector body *If the pin isn't removable*, I confess I'd be looking for a roll of quality electrical tape. Everything's a compromise, and that would be one I'd be willing to make, though I realize others would not.
Charlie
Virus-free. www.avast.com [url=#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2][/url]
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM, Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
| Quote: | Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
   -- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote: | Quote: | Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
Is there a way to repair it?
   -- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
|
|
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kuffel(at)cyberport.net
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 2:53 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Art,
<< damaged insulation. .. Is there a way to repair it? >>
<< removable pins,..back out the damaged wire, cover the damaged area with heat shrink .. pin isn't removable*, I confess I'd be looking for a roll of quality electrical tape >>
An even simpler way is to buy some Liquid Tape in the Automotive section of Wal-Mart. Even if the wire is buried deep you can reach it with a small artist's brush. This product forms a durable, tough rubberized coating.
Tom
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com [url=#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2] [/url]
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cbirdsall6(at)cox.net
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 3:04 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Art,
What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio.
Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new wire long enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the splice can be supported without putting undue strain on the wire/splice.
If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the bundle where both sides of the splice can be supported to minimize stress on the splice.
Chuck
| Quote: | On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> wrote:
Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
-- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
| Quote: | Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
Is there a way to repair it?
-- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
|
|
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List |
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yellowduckduo(at)gmail.co
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 4:43 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants
and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started.
Ken
On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
| Quote: | Art,
What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire
strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they
aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio.
Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd
replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace,
I'd splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new
wire long enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides
of the splice can be supported without putting undue strain on the
wire/splice.
If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be
to cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding
the heat shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then
butt-splice the wire back together. Choose the splice point somewhere
along the bundle where both sides of the splice can be supported to
minimize stress on the splice.
Chuck
> On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name> wrote:
>
> Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
> On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art(at)zemon.name
> <mailto:art(at)zemon.name>> wrote:
>
> Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one
> with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
>
> Is there a way to repair it?
>
> -- Art Z.
>
> Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
>
|
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art(at)zemon.name
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 5:57 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract the pin and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of E6000.
Cheers,
  -- Art Z.
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com (yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com (yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com)>
I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started.
Ken
On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
| Quote: | Art,
What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio.
Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new wire long enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the splice can be supported without putting undue strain on the wire/splice.
If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the bundle where both sides of the splice can be supported to minimize stress on the splice.
Chuck
| Quote: | On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
  -- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name) <mailto:art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)>> wrote:
  Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one
  with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
  Is there a way to repair it?
    -- Art Z.
  Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
|
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ashleysc(at)broadstripe.n
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| Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 8:52 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Hi Art;
Presuming you con't disconnect one end and slip some shrink tubing over it, there is a material called liquid adhesive tape, which can be painted on (much like white-out). It even comes in different colors.
Cheers! Stu.
From: "Art Zemon" <art(at)zemon.name>
To: aeroelectric-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2018 1:33:01 PM
Subject: Is this repairable?
Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
Is there a way to repair it?
-- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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henry(at)pericynthion.org
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 4:59 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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FWIW Art, you absolutely must have the right pin extractor tool to get those D-sub pins out. Available from our friends at B&C (link below) as well as Digikey, or Fry's. It is simply not possible to make do without this tool. (now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an alternate means of pin removal)
https://www.bandc.aero/insertionextractiontoold-subpins.aspx
-Henry
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
| Quote: | Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract the pin and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of E6000.
Cheers,
  -- Art Z.
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com (yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com (yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com)>
I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started.
Ken
On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
| Quote: | Art,
What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio.
Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new wire long enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the splice can be supported without putting undue strain on the wire/splice.
If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the bundle where both sides of the splice can be supported to minimize stress on the splice.
Chuck
| Quote: | On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
  -- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name) <mailto:art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)>> wrote:
  Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one
  with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
  Is there a way to repair it?
    -- Art Z.
  Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
|
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https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
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art(at)zemon.name
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:46 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Thanks, everybody, for the advice. I had no trouble extracting the pin (I do have the right tool) and added a bit of heat shrink tubing and popped the pin back into the connector.
Cheers,
  -- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
| | - The Matronics AeroElectric-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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rv10pro(at)gmail.com
Guest
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:58 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Use of a Raychem enviro-splice could avoid Pin Extraction if you have access to the correct crimper.(Aircraft Spruce).
John Cox
On Feb 26, 2018 18:05, "Henry Hallam" <henry(at)pericynthion.org.matronics.com (henry(at)pericynthion.org.matronics.com)> wrote: | Quote: | FWIW Art, you absolutely must have the right pin extractor tool to get those D-sub pins out. Available from our friends at B&C (link below) as well as Digikey, or Fry's. It is simply not possible to make do without this tool. (now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an alternate means of pin removal)
https://www.bandc.aero/insertionextractiontoold-subpins.aspx
-Henry
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
| Quote: | Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract the pin and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of E6000.
Cheers,
  -- Art Z.
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com (yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com (yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com)>
I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started.
Ken
On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
| Quote: | Art,
What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio.
Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new wire long enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the splice can be supported without putting undue strain on the wire/splice.
If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the bundle where both sides of the splice can be supported to minimize stress on the splice.
Chuck
| Quote: | On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
  -- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name) <mailto:art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)>> wrote:
  Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one
  with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
  Is there a way to repair it?
    -- Art Z.
  Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
|
|
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Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
===========
FORUMS -
eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
===========
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errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
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b Site -
     -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===========
|
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https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
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kenryan
Joined: 20 Oct 2009
Posts: 426
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 5:59 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Art, just curious, any idea what caused the damage?
On Mon, Feb 26, 2018 at 4:43 PM, Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
| Quote: | Thanks, everybody, for the advice. I had no trouble extracting the pin (I do have the right tool) and added a bit of heat shrink tubing and popped the pin back into the connector.
Cheers,
  -- Art Z.
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
|
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art(at)zemon.name
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 6:17 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Ken,
Who knows. I have been assembling the wiring behind the panel, and there has been work going on with sheet metal to support the top of the panel. That connector is right up near the top so it would have been easy for something to nick it. It was no big deal to extract the pin, add heat shrink tubing, and reinstall the pin. Since the windshield is not yet installed, the connector is easy to reach.
Cheers,
  -- Art Z.
On Mon, Feb 26, 2018 at 7:57 PM, Ken Ryan <keninalaska(at)gmail.com (keninalaska(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | Art, just curious, any idea what caused the damage?
|
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https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
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lyleapgmc
Joined: 19 Feb 2014
Posts: 57
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 6:19 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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I have used a piece of brass tubing to extract pins. I have also used other less sophisticated methods to painfully extract pins.
Pin extractors are also available at local auto parts stores and possible in the aircraft electronics department of the big box building supply stores.
Lyle
On 2/26/2018 6:57 PM, Henry Hallam wrote:
| Quote: | FWIW Art, you absolutely must have the right pin extractor tool to get those D-sub pins out. Available from our friends at B&C (link below) as well as Digikey, or Fry's. It is simply not possible to make do without this tool. (now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an alternate means of pin removal)
https://www.bandc.aero/insertionextractiontoold-subpins.aspx
-Henry
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
| Quote: | Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract the pin and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of E6000.
Cheers,
  -- Art Z.
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com (yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com (yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com)>
I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started.
Ken
On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
| Quote: | Art,
What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio.
Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new wire long enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the splice can be supported without putting undue strain on the wire/splice.
If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the bundle where both sides of the splice can be supported to minimize stress on the splice.
Chuck
| Quote: | On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
  -- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name) <mailto:art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)>> wrote:
  Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one
  with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
  Is there a way to repair it?
    -- Art Z.
  Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
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art(at)zemon.name
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| Posted: Mon Feb 26, 2018 6:54 pm Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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Meh. Pin tools are cheap. Five bucks if you can't find one locally https://www.steinair.com/product/insertionremoval-tool-for-standard-d-sub-pins-mil-spec/
Cheers,
  -- Art Z.
On Mon, Feb 26, 2018 at 8:19 PM, Lyle Peterson <lyleap(at)centurylink.net (lyleap(at)centurylink.net)> wrote:
| Quote: |
I have used a piece of brass tubing to extract pins. I have also used other less sophisticated methods to painfully extract pins.
Pin extractors are also available at local auto parts stores and possible in the aircraft electronics department of the big box building supply stores.
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https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/"If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
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harleydixon
Joined: 17 Sep 2016
Posts: 18
Location: Henrietta, NY
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| Posted: Tue Feb 27, 2018 5:24 am Post subject: Is this repairable? |
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>>now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an alternate means of pin removal<<
Yeah...start munching! <G>
I made one years ago when I was working for a living using a very thin brass tube the right diameter and soldering a T handle to it. Still have it somewhere around here, and use it when needed.
Harley
On 2/26/2018 7:57 PM, Henry Hallam wrote:
| Quote: | FWIW Art, you absolutely must have the right pin extractor tool to get those D-sub pins out. Available from our friends at B&C (link below) as well as Digikey, or Fry's. It is simply not possible to make do without this tool. (now watch me eat my words as somebody posts an alternate means of pin removal)
https://www.bandc.aero/insertionextractiontoold-subpins.aspx
-Henry
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
| Quote: | Thanks everybody. Tomorrow morning, I will see if I can extract the pin and add a piece of heat shrink. If not, I'll try a dab of E6000.
Cheers,
  -- Art Z.
On Sun, Feb 25, 2018 at 7:42 PM, C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com (yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: | --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: C&K <yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com (yellowduckduo(at)gmail.com)>
I find that E6000/shoe goo works as good or better than most sealants and is less invasive as long as significant corrosion hasn't started.
Ken
On 25/02/2018 6:04 PM, Charles Birdsall wrote:
| Quote: | Art,
What Charlie suggests is entirely adequate and as long as the wire strands themselves weren't damaged (the photo seems to indicate they aren't) then heat shrink will probably last longer than the radio.
Having said that, I'm a perfectionist and on a new installation I'd replace the whole wire. If the whole run is a nightmare to replace, I'd splice in a new wire part way down the bundle - making the new wire long enough to get the butt splice into an area where both sides of the splice can be supported without putting undue strain on the wire/splice.
If for some reason the pin can't be removed, an alternative would be to cut the wire at some handy point down the wire bundle and sliding the heat shrink back up the wire to the damaged point. Then butt-splice the wire back together. Choose the splice point somewhere along the bundle where both sides of the splice can be supported to minimize stress on the splice.
Chuck
| Quote: | On February 25, 2018 at 4:10 PM Art Zemon <art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)> wrote:
Hmmm. Trying again with the photo...
  -- Art Z.
Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
On Feb 25, 2018 4:48 PM, "Art Zemon" < art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name) <mailto:art(at)zemon.name (art(at)zemon.name)>> wrote:
  Ouch. I'm tying up the wires behind my panel and found this one
  with damaged insulation. It is the mic key wire on a com radio.
  Is there a way to repair it?
    -- Art Z.
  Sent from my phone. Please excuse brevity and bizarre typos.
|
|
===========
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Electric-List" rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?AeroElectric-List
===========
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eferrer" target="_blank">http://forums.matronics.com
===========
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errer" target="_blank">http://wiki.matronics.com
===========
b Site -
     -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
rel="noreferrer" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===========
|
--
https://CheerfulCurmudgeon.com/ "If I am not for myself, who is for me? And if I am only for myself, what am I? And if not now, when?" Hillel
|
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Long EZ N28EZ
Canandaigua Airport (D38)
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