Matronics Email Lists :: View topic

Matronics Email Lists
Web Forum Interface to the Matronics Email Lists

Get Email Distribution Too! FAQ Search Memberlist Usergroups Register

Profile Log in to check your private messages Log in

M14P Air Pump.

Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> Yak-List

View previous topic :: View next topic

Author Message

MajorGoofinoff(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 8:41 am Post subject: M14P Air Pump.

Time to change out the air pump.  Anyone got good info on tips and techniques to get that bad boy off?  

  

 Scott

 Yak52.

pa3arw(at)euronet.nl
Guest

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 10:18 am Post subject: M14P Air Pump.

It’s a real sucker to get it off when the engine is build in….but it’s possible. The standard Yak toolset has all the right keys etc.  

   

Did it twice…. you need very small fingers (most important…) and a lot of patience…..didn’t have the small fingers……the patience I had but it didn’t last very long….  

   

Good luck Scott!  

     

Hans  

  

   

--

rvfltd(at)televar.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 10:53 am Post subject: M14P Air Pump.

Scott, what has failed?  The drive/pin  or the pump?

  

 

Always Yakin,

Doug Sapp  [quote]   --

dsavarese(at)elmore.rr.co
Guest

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:29 pm Post subject: M14P Air Pump.

Get everything out of the way that you can.  Remove the output check  valve and insert a plastic swizzle stick into the hole where you removed the  output check valve.  Now have someone rotate the prop slowly.  If the  compressor piston comes up and holds the plastic stick, the sheer coupling is OK  and the compressor is probably OK too.  If it does not hold the plastic  stick, then assume the sheer coupling is sheered.  You will need a curved  11 mm box end wrench.  There is one in the Russian tool box with a T handle  on it.  Remove the 6 - 11 mm nuts to remove the compressor.  Getting  them started when you want to reinstall it is the challenge.  You will need  a lot of patience.

 Dennis

  

 [quote]   ---

viperdoc(at)mindspring.co
Guest

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 1:21 pm Post subject: M14P Air Pump.

Curse, scream, bang your knucles, and get up to your elbows between the mags...ah heck...Call Dennis Savarese. He has the most experience pulling those things off that I know of! Office # 334-285-2141.

 Doc Kemp

  

 



  

 [quote] ---

MajorGoofinoff(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 6:45 am Post subject: M14P Air Pump.

Don't know yet.  Just getting ready to investigate the problem.  Only thing I have check so far is the banjo fitting for leaks.

  

 Scott.

  

  

  

 In a message dated 7/22/2006 1:54:31 PM Central Standard Time, rvfltd(at)televar.com writes:

 [quote] Scott, what has failed?  The drive/pin or the pump?

  

 

Always Yakin,

Doug Sapp  [quote] --

dsavarese(at)elmore.rr.co
Guest

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 8:33 am Post subject: M14P Air Pump.

If you remove the entire output check valve, put your thumb over the hole  and have someone rotate the prop, the compressor should "push" your thumb off  the hole.  If it does not, then either the sheer coupling or compressor  itself is bad.  Also while you have the output check valve out, make sure  the little "piston" moves freely up and down.  It is spring loaded.   If the compressor does move your finger off the hole while rotating the prop,  make sure the output check valve is working properly.  Many, many times the  little piston is carboned up and no longer opens.  It this is the case, you  will not charge your air system.  A carboned up output check valve may also  cause the sheer coupling to sheer due to backpressure.  If both are OK  (compressor and output check valve, check the pop-off valve and make sure it is  working properly.

 Dennis

  

 [quote]   ---

MajorGoofinoff(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2006 1:12 pm Post subject: M14P Air Pump.

In a message dated 7/23/2006 11:35:05 AM Central Standard Time, dsavarese(at)elmore.rr.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		   If you remove the entire output check valve, put your thumb over the hole and have someone rotate the prop, the compressor should "push" your thumb off the hole.  If it does not, then either the sheer coupling or compressor itself is bad.  Also while you have the output check valve out, make sure the little "piston" moves freely up and down.  It is spring loaded.  If the compressor does move your finger off the hole while rotating the prop, make sure the output check valve is working properly.  Many, many times the little piston is carboned up and no longer opens.  It this is the case, you will not charge your air system.  A carboned up output check valve may also cause the sheer coupling to sheer due to backpressure.  If both are OK (compressor and output check valve, check the pop-off valve and make sure it is working properly.

 Dennis

  

	


 Thanks Dennis,

  

    I will look into all of the above and post results on the list.

  

 Scott.

mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
Guest

Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 9:29 am Post subject: M14P Air Pump.

Scott, excuse me for butting my nose into  your business, but I do so only with your best interests in mind.   

  

 9 times out of 10, every single person that  has thought that they had a bad air compressor ... ended up NOT having a bad air  compressor.  

  

 May I respectfully ask you what has made you  come to the conclusion that yours is bad?  

  

 The ones that I have yanked out that were  bad... one has a broken shaft and the other had stripped threads on the banjo  fitting.  As for how to pull them,  I have swivel sockets that work  well... other than that, it is usually just a pain in the tail but  do-able.  

  

 Mark Bitterlich

  

 [quote]   --

mark.bitterlich(at)navy.m
Guest

Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2006 9:37 am Post subject: M14P Air Pump.

Dennis has this down to a science as  usual.    One of the things I have done is to apply compressed  air BACKWARDS.  I take the line coming from the compressor to the snot  valve OFF.  I then attach a fitting to that line and apply a few hundred  PSI of air backwards.,... towards the compressor pump.  I raise the  pressure very slowly and listen for leaks.  9 times out of 10, I'll find  one someplace.  Dennis has already listed most of the normal places...  banjo, check valve, etc.  The line itself... the one with the loop in it,  is also highly suspect.  If that indeed is what is bad, call Doug Sapp for  a much better replacement. 

  

 Mark Bitterlich

  

 [quote]   --

Display posts from previous:

	Matronics Email Lists Forum Index -> Yak-List	All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Page 1 of 1

Jump to:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You can download files in this forum