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OshKosh Tunnel heat

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VHMUM(at)bigpond.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 12:49 pm Post subject: OshKosh Tunnel heat

For those with flying RV10 that are going to Oshkosh if you are having 

problems with tunnel heat can you bring it up at the forum please.



And those that are flying are you have serious issues with the 

heat......theres been a lot of talk but just need the facts please ...yes no 

fixed??



regards Chris

dmasys(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 2:20 pm Post subject: OshKosh Tunnel heat

Just chatted at some length with Vic Syracuse about this here at OSH, and he for sure has it fixed.



-Dan Masys

40448



---- "Chris  wrote: 

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 For those with flying RV10 that are going to Oshkosh if you are having 

 problems with tunnel heat can you bring it up at the forum please.

 

 And those that are flying are you have serious issues with the 

 heat......theres been a lot of talk but just need the facts please ...yes no 

 fixed??

 

 regards Chris

10flyer(at)verizon.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 2:31 pm Post subject: OshKosh Tunnel heat

Chris, I have a flying 10 with 100hrs on it. I had no heat problems during 

the winter but have had plenty during the hotter months in SoCal. I have 

insulated the inside firewall and tunnel areas, firesleeved my tunnel fuel 

lines, disconnected the heat box scat tubes (and run them overboard), and 

extended my exhaust pipe( I have the original exhaust). None of these have 

solved the problem. When I am done flying, the entire circumference of the 

aircraft adjacent to the firewall is so hot you cannot touch the exterior. I 

also believe I am experiencing more than the "normal" injected engine fuel 

vapor problems that are sometimes present with hot engines. If you haven't 

already, go on the Doug Reeves RV website and look at the forum threads for 

the 10 and you will find talk relating to the tunnel heat issue. One guy 

claims to have fixed the problem and goes on to explain how he did it by 

insulating the belly on the outside as well as insulating the forward side 

of the firewall. Although I believe his theory is absolutely correct 

regarding the origination of the heat, I disagree that this is the final 

solution. You can do several things to alleviate the problem, but in my 

opinion the heat from the engine should not be that bad to begin with. In 

other words, you can resolve the tunnel heat issue, but it seems to me that 

there are factors ( maybe cowl design) that are not allowing the heat to 

escape the cowl area, thereby heating up the stainless steel firewall. I 

haven't seen any other RV models that have had to go to this length to keep 

heat off the firewall. Even though other RV's don't have tunnels, i'm sure 

if there was a lot of heat buildup on the other models, they would be 

complaining. Makes me wonder why the 10 is the only model with the vents 

under the cowl!! I am not an engineer, but it seems to me that the cowl 

needs some sort of modification to get the proper press differential from 

inlet to outlet that will help evacuate the engine heat better. Sorry to 

ramble, hope this helps. I do believe the ball is in Vans' 

court....especially with 600 kits sold. Mark (N104ML)

VHMUM(at)bigpond.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 2:42 pm Post subject: OshKosh Tunnel heat

Please do tell?



Chris



---

VHMUM(at)bigpond.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 2:48 pm Post subject: OshKosh Tunnel heat

Yes Mark I agree with you and I have seen and replied on Dougs site....I was 

going to put a blanket on engine side of firewall but do not want to put 

anything on the belly...so agree partial fix. I cant seem to find anything 

over here so will probably have to import something like Kool-mat or the 

like.



Chris



Australia



---

Sean Blair

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 39
Location: Colorado Springs

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 3:22 pm Post subject: OshKosh Tunnel heat

I ordered 3/4 inch Super Soundproofing for the front flooring.  I haven't

installed it yet.  One recommendation from the vendor was to place sheets of

Reynolds Aluminum down first before the soundproofing to help with the heat

aspects.  Has anyone done this?  What did you use for adhesion? 



Thanks again,



Sean Blair

#40225



Yes Mark I agree with you and I have seen and replied on Dougs site....I was



going to put a blanket on engine side of firewall but do not want to put 

anything on the belly...so agree partial fix. I cant seem to find anything 

over here so will probably have to import something like Kool-mat or the 

like.



Chris



Australia

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Chris, I have a flying 10 with 100hrs on it. I had no heat problems during


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   the winter but have had plenty during the hotter months in SoCal. I have 

 insulated the inside firewall and tunnel areas, firesleeved my tunnel fuel


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   lines, disconnected the heat box scat tubes (and run them overboard), and 

 extended my exhaust pipe( I have the original exhaust). None of these have


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   solved the problem. When I am done flying, the entire circumference of the


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   aircraft adjacent to the firewall is so hot you cannot touch the exterior.


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   I also believe I am experiencing more than the "normal" injected engine 

 fuel vapor problems that are sometimes present with hot engines. If you 

 haven't already, go on the Doug Reeves RV website and look at the forum 

 threads for the 10 and you will find talk relating to the tunnel heat 

 issue. One guy claims to have fixed the problem and goes on to explain how


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   he did it by insulating the belly on the outside as well as insulating the


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   forward side of the firewall. Although I believe his theory is absolutely 

 correct regarding the origination of the heat, I disagree that this is the


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   final solution. You can do several things to alleviate the problem, but in


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   my opinion the heat from the engine should not be that bad to begin with. 

 In other words, you can resolve the tunnel heat issue, but it seems to me 

 that there are factors ( maybe cowl design) that are not allowing the heat


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   to escape the cowl area, thereby heating up the stainless steel firewall. 

 I haven't seen any other RV models that have had to go to this length to 

 keep heat off the firewall. Even though other RV's don't have tunnels, i'm


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   sure if there was a lot of heat buildup on the other models, they would be


	


 	  Quote: 	
		   complaining. Makes me wonder why the 10 is the only model with the vents 

 under the cowl!! I am not an engineer, but it seems to me that the cowl 

 needs some sort of modification to get the proper press differential from 

 inlet to outlet that will help evacuate the engine heat better. Sorry to 

 ramble, hope this helps. I do believe the ball is in Vans' 

 court....especially with 600 kits sold. Mark (N104ML)

_________________
Sean S. Blair
#40225
N967SB (reserved)

dmaib@me.com

Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 454
Location: New Smyrna Beach, Florida

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 3:49 pm Post subject: OshKosh Tunnel heat

Are any RV-10's flying with the Sam James cowling, and if so, are  

they having hot tunnel problems?



David Maib

Eagan, MN	#40559

On Jul 22, 2006, at 5:29 PM, Mark Chamberlain wrote:




<10flyer(at)verizon.net>



Chris, I have a flying 10 with 100hrs on it. I had no heat problems  

during the winter but have had plenty during the hotter months in  

SoCal. I have insulated the inside firewall and tunnel areas,  

firesleeved my tunnel fuel lines, disconnected the heat box scat  

tubes (and run them overboard), and extended my exhaust pipe( I have  

the original exhaust). None of these have solved the problem. When I  

am done flying, the entire circumference of the aircraft adjacent to  

the firewall is so hot you cannot touch the exterior. I also believe  

I am experiencing more than the "normal" injected engine fuel vapor  

problems that are sometimes present with hot engines. If you haven't  

already, go on the Doug Reeves RV website and look at the forum  

threads for the 10 and you will find talk relating to the tunnel heat  

issue. One guy claims to have fixed the problem and goes on to  

explain how he did it by insulating the belly on the outside as well  

as insulating the forward side of the firewall. Although I believe  

his theory is absolutely correct regarding the origination of the  

heat, I disagree that this is the final solution. You can do several  

things to alleviate the problem, but in my opinion the heat from the  

engine should not be that bad to begin with. In other words, you can  

resolve the tunnel heat issue, but it seems to me that there are  

factors ( maybe cowl design) that are not allowing the heat to escape  

the cowl area, thereby heating up the stainless steel firewall. I  

haven't seen any other RV models that have had to go to this length  

to keep heat off the firewall. Even though other RV's don't have  

tunnels, i'm sure if there was a lot of heat buildup on the other  

models, they would be complaining. Makes me wonder why the 10 is the  

only model with the vents under the cowl!! I am not an engineer, but  

it seems to me that the cowl needs some sort of modification to get  

the proper press differential from inlet to outlet that will help  

evacuate the engine heat better. Sorry to ramble, hope this helps. I  

do believe the ball is in Vans' court....especially with 600 kits  

sold. Mark (N104ML)



www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

wiki.matronics.com

_________________
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL

10flyer(at)verizon.net
Guest

Posted: Sat Jul 22, 2006 6:45 pm Post subject: OshKosh Tunnel heat

Hey Sean, I used 3/8 inch supersoundproof under my front/ back floors and 

sidewalls. Attached it with sticky stuff adhesive spray from Spruce. The 

front floor area has remained cool with that, but probably because of the 

extra layer of sheet metal that your feet rest on. Not so effective in the 

tunnel area. Mark.

jesse(at)itecusa.org
Guest

Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 5:30 pm Post subject: OshKosh Tunnel heat

I really haven't seen any serious tunnel heat in either 256H or 415EC.



Do not archive.



Jesse Saint

I-TEC, Inc.

jesse(at)itecusa.org

www.itecusa.org

W: 352-465-4545

C: 352-427-0285



--

mritter509(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 6:25 pm Post subject: OshKosh Tunnel heat

I'll second that.  All I did was put in the "Y" per Vans fix and the tunnel is not even what I would call warm.  Don't know if it made a difference but I did not run the scat tube to the rear cabin.  My guess is that the front cabin heat will keep the entire cabin warm if and when heat is ever needed in Texas.  If I'm wrong I'll add the scat tube later. 

Mark Ritter (N410MR) 

  

 [quote] 

From:  "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>

Reply-To:  rv10-list(at)matronics.com

To:  <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject:  RE: OshKosh __Tunnel heat

Date:  Sun, 30 Jul 2006 21:24:37 -0400

[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)itecusa.org>



I really haven't seen any serious tunnel heat in either 256H or 415EC.



Do not archive.



Jesse Saint

I-TEC, Inc.

jesse(at)itecusa.org

www.itecusa.org

W: 352-465-4545

C: 352-427-0285



--

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