mau05160(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Sun Jan 03, 2021 10:11 pm Post subject: Europa-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 01/02/21 |
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Following the information of a fatigue rupture on a 1.2 or 1.5 mm piano
wire there was an external damage on the piano wire itself because it is so
strong that pushing and pulling actions cannot not create a break. The
resistance of a CAP is 120 kg per mm² ie 135 kg for a diameter of 1.2 mm
and 212 kg for 1.5 mm². Even if the steel was of poor quality, for example
60 kg, the actions of pushing and pulling are not sufficient to cause it to
break, on top of that the piano wire is double! can be shear by a bolt ?
Le dim. 3 janv. 2021 à 08:39, Europa-List Digest Server <
europa-list(at)matronics.com> a écrit :
[quote] *
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Europa-List Digest Archive
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Total Messages Posted Sat 01/02/21: 3
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Today's Message Index:
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1. 03:53 AM - Re: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
(Richard Wheelwright)
2. 08:46 AM - Re: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
(Bud Yerly)
3. 01:25 PM - Re: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
(MEE)
________________________________ Message 1
_____________________________________
Time: 03:53:49 AM PST US
From: Richard Wheelwright <rpwheelwright(at)yahoo.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
I had a similar problem. If cables are oil/greased in time the lubricant
eve
ntually drys out and also picks up dust. And then will stick.
To solve the problem I changed to solid cables. I sent my old cable to
https
://www.cable-tec.co.uk/ who made me the new cables to the length
required.
There is s heat resistant grease that does not dry out, sorry I cannot
reme
mber what it was. But it has worked perfectly for about 4 years with no
prob
lems.
Richard
> On 2 Jan 2021, at 05:52, MEE <macstar1224(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I had to abort a take-off due to poor acceleration and low manifold
pressu
re.
> Problem was caused by one throttle cable sticking at just above idle
whil
e the other at full throttle!
> Even when the cable was lubricated it was still has high friction. Looks
l
ike I need new cables. Think the cable system needs expandable rubber
boots t
o reduce the amount of grit that must contaminate the cable runs.
> Anyone else had this problem?
>
> --------
> Ian McClelland
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=499940#499940
>
>
>
>
>
>
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________________________________ Message 2
_____________________________________
Time: 08:46:12 AM PST US
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: RE: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
Ian,
I believe the Europa Club has a paper I did on throttle cable installation
on their site, it is also at
https://customflightcreations.com/techniques-a
rticles/ <https://customflightcreations.com/techniques-articles/> (I
don't pay google any longer so type in the https://... to find
the site through all the paying ad customers.) If the cable bends in the t
hrottle box, it is generally not a lubrication problem or even a sticky oil
cable to sheath issue. It is a problem with the cable installation, most
likely a kinked or bound cable. Maintainers unfamiliar with the Europa oft
en look at the cables and are appalled that they are loose and not firmly b
ound all along their route to the carb. In their attempt for neatness, the
y bind the cable(s) and cause them to bind. Builders also fail to get thei
r initial throttle box alignment correct to prevent the cable(s) from clean
ly entering the sheath from the throttle arm. I recently scolded one of my
clients for allowing a well known Rotax repair facility touch his cable ro
uting. The repairman kinked the cables and bound them tightly. It was an
older Classic (20+ years old), so upon installation of his new cables, all
worked flawlessly again.
Cables must be anchored and aligned properly on both ends and frankly, the
area in between must be loopy and only lightly affixed to prevent interfere
nce in the wheel well of the mono.
A new set of cables can be purchased, but still, the running of the cables,
the alignment in the home made throttle box and fixation to the carby must
be addressed.
To supplement my article on "Throttle and choke cable etiquette" attached,
please check the following:
Prior to removing the cables to rebuild them to proper spec. one can check
that the cables are not kinked or tightly bound, the cable binding nuts on
the throttles are lubricated and free to rotate, and the throttle box cable
pivot points on the arm are free to operate. (The only two points requiri
ng lubrication are this pivot on the throttle linkage and the box cable piv
ot attachment in my opinion.) Look into the throttle box for proper cable
alignment. If issues are found, simply removing the cable/throttle box to
your nice warm workbench and correcting issues is all that is needed. I fi
nd that if the cable itself is kinked, or unraveled, it is best to replace
the cables as it is not worth the time. If the cable will not operate laid
out on the bench, it won't work in the plane. If you have to tug on a cab
le in either direction to get it to move, you have a damaged sheath. Remem
ber, cable sheaths are just a coil of wire wrapped around a nylon tube. If
the winding is damaged, it squeezes the inner liner, and the cable will no
t operate freely in the sheath.
For me, the nylon sheath lined cables require no lube over a lifetime. (Al
though I have used a graphite lube to ease customers fears from the constan
t complaints of club members/owners on this subject.) The sheath is lined
with nylon, coiled in stainless, then heat shrink over the top making a dir
t resistant sheath for the twisted wire cable. My old original Classic cab
les from 1998 (I'm not sure if they were supplied by Europa) were damaged b
y the original builder and were shortened in length, but alas his technique
was poor as the cable sheaths were bent hard, the cable end cuts were smas
hed and the cable attachments were misaligned in the throttle box. So ther
e was much to correct. Note that if supplied with an aftermarket or origin
al non lined sheath, they are best replaced as stainless steel to stainless
steel can lead to a corrosion problem eventually. My 2005 supplied Europa
cables have been good now for 15+ years with only a single light lube of a
Teflon or graphite that was used during inspection (I can't remember what
lube I used on the cloth as I was more interested in corrosion of the cable
s here in Florida). The reason I pulled my cables was for an experiment du
ring my rubber replacement at the 10 year condition inspection, when I also
chose to install a throttle friction.
Some owner/builders have done solid cables of wire, model airplane nyrod pu
sh pull cables, and Zenith style solid rod to a welded arm on the firewall
that allows both throttles to be actuated via a short push pull cable. All
taking more time, money and effort than simply following cable etiquette
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