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Start 914 on A, B or both?

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rparigoris

Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 792

Posted: Sat Mar 20, 2021 10:53 am Post subject: Start 914 on A, B or both?

Hi Group

When starting a 914, is it worth it to start only on Ignition B where advance is 22 BTDC? This would be a little less advance compared to Ignition A where advance is 26 BTDC. Perhaps less chance of kickbacks?

I don't have soft start.

I have heavy duty starter, Earth-X 680C and Airmaster.

I don't have the very old 914 ignition modules with different RPM and timing at lower RPMs, mine has pretty good wire strain relief from factory.



Or start on both A+B Ignitions?



Perhaps get engine cranking with ignition off till max starter RPM?



I have B&C SD20S on vacuum pad, is it worth it to start with field off?



I have a B&C AVC1 regulator for internal generator, is it worth it to start with no power going to AVC1 which will keep internal generator dead?



Thx.

Ron P.

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Griffo

Joined: 18 Mar 2021
Posts: 70
Location: The Oaks, NSW, Australia

Posted: Mon Mar 22, 2021 10:32 pm Post subject: Re: Start 914 on A, B or both?

Seeing as the more knowledgeable are not responding I will give parts of your Q a go:

Sounds like a no brainer but do not attempt to start with a weak battery. You will do damage to your starting system and have a poor start performance (especially cold engine and in cold weather)

For a cold start –

If using ULP/MoGas, it must be fresh, for best starting performance – adding a good “slug” (minimum 20 L) of fresh fuel to a slightly stale tank contents is usually sufficient to bring it up to specifications. 

Make sure you run your fuel boost pump until a stable pressure is achieved (turn off).

All non-starting circuits must be off before cranking.

I like to have my choke on full (closed) with just a mm or two of throttle. This will give a very slightly higher than your minimum idle RPM.

After start - Do not be in a hurry to close your choke and then do it gradually, bringing in a bit more throttle to maintain fast idle – at choke full off, engine should be at or about 2-2200 RPM.

Hot start – 

Same as above, without any choke. In fact, I like to stop/kill my engine with the RPM slightly above minimum idle, in preparation for the next start.

No start! REST THE SYSTEM to allow cooling – consider possible over rich/flooding may have occurred. If so, OPEN CHOKE & advance THROTTLE (1/3 – 1/2) – ARM BOTH IGNITIONS – when system cooled – (be sure to have brakes fully engaged)  CRANK and be ready to reduce RPM (slowly)

No starter motor should be used as a prolonged cranking device – so don’t crank & then engage your ignition.  Always arm your ignition (1 and/or 2) and then crank.

As for starting on ignition 1, 2 or both – I prefer both, but many pilots will start on one and then bring in the second.

Soft Start (SS)– First make doubly sure it is not fitted. 

If not fitted – consider purchasing/fitting the SS fly wheel. This a fairly easy and low-cost upgrade that will give you some SS capability, without fitting the very expensive SS modules.

If you have the dollars – one SS Module and the fly wheel will give you all the SS you need.

I understand that there was a period where the SS was fitted but not necessarily connected – check for this, as I understand a small piece of wiring harness is all that is needed to bring it into effect.

Can’t answer your Q on the alternator on/off but my gut feeling is that it should make no difference to a starting system in good condition, powered by a good battery.

Your battery, start cables & connector condition is always the lowest cost key to a reliable start.

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