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exhaust bolt torque

 
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sarg314(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 8:00 pm    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque Reply with quote

I was going to torque down the nuts on the exhaust studs on my O-360
when I noticed a contradiction between my torque tables and Larry
Vetterman's instructions. Larry says to torque the nuts to 100- 140
in-lb. That's the torque value for a 5/16-24 bolt, according to my
table. But the exhaust studs in my engine are 5/16-18. The torque
table says to use 80-90 in-lb for the coarse thread 5/16 bolts.

What's the right torque value here?

Is this another situation like the engine case bolts (1/4-20) which are
torqued at 90 - 100 in-lb (about double the value listed in the table)?

--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A


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Vanremog(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 8:15 pm    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque Reply with quote

In a message dated 7/10/2006 9:02:38 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
Quote:
I noticed a contradiction between my torque tables and Larry
Vetterman's instructions.  Larry says to torque the nuts to 100- 140
in-lb.  That's the torque value for a 5/16-24 bolt, according to my
table.


=========================================
 
I torqued them to 100-140 in-lb just as Larry indicates.  He's the exhaust expert as far as I'm concerned!
 
 
 
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 801hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)


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lhelming(at)sigecom.net
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 6:08 am    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque Reply with quote

I torqued my O360 at 90 in-lbs. They have not come off or loosened in over
100 hours. I checked them at last annual and they were all still tight.
AND No leaks.

Maybe it should be considered to torque at the low end of Vetterman's or the
high end of the published torque table in the manual. I am sure Vetterman
knows his stuff. That is quite a spread between 100 and 140 however.
Usually you find this type spread when a cotter pin needs to be used which
is not the case here. Indiana Larry

---


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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 12, 2006 4:29 am    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque Reply with quote

 
 
Tom,
 
I remember this coming up before, but not with the exhaust bolts.  The torque tables for the airframe do not apply to the engine!  I personally think that the low torque values used for the airframe have to do with clamping aluminum and not crushing it.  The AN bolts are good for probably twice the torque in the airframe tables.  (IMHO -- please don't hold me to that last statement!)
 
do not archive
 
Dan Hopper
RV-7A and longtime shade tree mechanic
 
Quote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314(at)comcast.net>
Quote:

I was going to torque down the nuts on the exhaust studs on my O-360 when
I noticed a contradiction between my torque tables and Larry Vetterman's
instructions.  Larry says to torque the nuts to 100- 140 in-lb.  That's
the torque value for a 5/16-24 bolt, according to my table.  But the
exhaust studs in my engine are 5/16-18.  The torque table says to use
80-90 in-lb for the coarse thread 5/16 bolts.
What's the right torque value here?

--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A


 


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az_gila



Joined: 17 Jun 2006
Posts: 99
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2006 9:12 pm    Post subject: Re: exhaust bolt torque Reply with quote

The torque values you are looking up are for airframe bolts.

The Lycoming Direct Drive Overhaul Manual has it's own set of default torque values.. and they are only for the coarse thread bolts (no fine thread bolts on the engine)

#10 49 in. lb.
1/4 96 in. lb.
5/16 204 in. lb.
3/8 360 in. lb.
7/16 600 in. lb.
1/2 900 in. lb.

They also call for lubricated threads except when otherwise specified.

Lycoming also has another set of instructions for crush type copper/asbestos gaskets - which I believe the exhaust gaskets would fall under.

In this case, for a 18 threads to the inch bolt/stud, tighten until surfaces are in contact and then tighten another 135 degrees.

This is only if the exhaust gaskets fall under the description of a "crush type" gasket
Perhaps a A&P can help out here... I'm only an airframe mechanic... Wink ... but I got the Lycoming book...

gil in Tucson


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rv9jim(at)juno.com
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:27 am    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque Reply with quote

Gil,
I don't have the overhaul manual but I need the size of the bolts
that go into the machined boss that was origionally used for the
generator on the lycoming o-360. This is an area that has three tapped
holes just on the generator side of the case. It is bigger than a 1/4"
but not 5/16". I want to support the starter cable as it leaves the
starter and heads back to the start solenoid. With an adel clamp in that
position, it will releive strain where the start cable attaches to the
starter.
Jim Nelson


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az_gila



Joined: 17 Jun 2006
Posts: 99
Location: Tucson, AZ

PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 8:47 am    Post subject: Re: exhaust bolt torque Reply with quote

Jim... I don't have my parts manual here - a different book from the overhaul manual - but Lycoming only uses US coarse thread screws.

If it's not 1/4, then I bet it's a 5/16-18

Buy a cheap 5/16 bolt from the hw store and see if it threads in. It should not be an odd size.

gil in Tucson


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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 9:04 am    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure its a 1/4-20.  It is on my IO-360.
 
do not archive
 
Dan Hopper
RV-7A

 
In a message dated 7/30/2006 12:52:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, gilalex(at)earthlink.net writes:
Quote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "az_gila" <gilalex(at)earthlink.net>

Jim... I don't have my parts manual here - a different book from the overhaul manual - but Lycoming only uses US coarse thread screws.

If it's not 1/4, then I bet it's a 5/16-18

Buy a cheap 5/16 bolt from the hw store and see if it threads in.   It should not be an odd size.

gil in Tucson



 
 
 


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bicyclop(at)pacbell.net
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2006 10:36 am    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque Reply with quote

Watch out for those crush type exhaust gaskets. I had one of those burn
through allowing the nuts to loosen and fall off. The pipe was found
hanging (barely) on the end of the stud. I replaced it with a solid
"blow proof" gasket. I checked the other 3 gaskets when we got home and
they all showed signs of damage and some leakage. Replaced all. 700
hours on engine at the time.

Ed Holyoke

Quote:
Lycoming also has another set of instructions for crush type
copper/asbestos gaskets - which I believe the exhaust gaskets would fall

under.

Quote:
In this case, for a 18 threads to the inch bolt/stud, tighten until
surfaces are in contact and then tighten another 135 degrees.


Quote:
This is only if the exhaust gaskets fall under the description of a
"crush type" gasket

Perhaps a A&P can help out here... I'm only an airframe mechanic...
[Wink] ... but I got the Lycoming book...

Quote:
gil in Tucson


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FLYaDIVE(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2006 1:56 pm    Post subject: exhaust bolt torque Reply with quote

In a message dated 7/30/06 2:38:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
bicyclop(at)pacbell.net writes:

Quote:
Watch out for those crush type exhaust gaskets. I had one of those burn
through allowing the nuts to loosen and fall off. The pipe was found
hanging (barely) on the end of the stud. I replaced it with a solid
"blow proof" gasket. I checked the other 3 gaskets when we got home and
they all showed signs of damage and some leakage. Replaced all. 700
hours on engine at the time.

Ed Holyoke
=======================

Ed:

You are 100% right on!

A cheep friend, purchased a set of those soft -- gaskets (guaranteed to
blowout) and not one, but two of them were totally burnt out and missing. The
exhaust pipes were just barely hanging there. There was so much noise but he was
more interested in flying than looking under the cowl. In the process he also
ruined two exhaust mounting studs. So did he save any money? I don't think
so! ! !

Barry
"Chop'd Liver"

"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada


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