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Auto [Healeys] Electrics question

 
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alfuller194(at)gmail.com
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2022 10:42 am    Post subject: Auto [Healeys] Electrics question Reply with quote

All: quoted below is a generator question and a proposed answer as to why the generator and regulator both failed.

Any thoughts?

________________
Best Regards,
Al Fuller

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: josef-eckert--- via Healeys <healeys(at)autox.team.net (healeys(at)autox.team.net)>
Date: Sun, Nov 27, 2022, 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electrics
To: Mike Sinclair <phoenix722(at)comcast.net (phoenix722(at)comcast.net)>, healeys(at)autox.team.net (healeys(at)autox.team.net) <healeys(at)autox.team.net (healeys(at)autox.team.net)>


Hello Mike,

I presume the points sticked together, causing the generater to produce a high output voltage at the generastor D-Terminal, which resulted in an extremely high current which welded the points together. The generator got extremely hot (had to gave much more power than it was designed for) and the bar broke out.
Simple, but that´s to my opinion what happened.
 
Josef Eckert
Germany
 
 
 
-----Original-Nachricht-----
Betreff: [Healeys] Electrics
Datum: 2022-11-27T02:52:14+0100
Von: "Mike Sinclair" <phoenix722(at)comcast.net (phoenix722(at)comcast.net)>
An: "Healey List" <healeys(at)autox.team.net (healeys(at)autox.team.net)>
 
 
 
Need some enlightenment.  Awhile back, the car (BJ8) was running fine, but I noticed the little red light that says the battery isn't being charged was on.  (I do keep the battery on a Battery Minder" when not in use.)  Chased the system down, and discovered the generator was putting out zero volts.  Adjusted the fan belt, no change.  On closer inspection, the rotor was damaged (a bar was actually missing).  Had the unit rebuilt, and it is working fine, but still had the little red light wouldn't go out.  Checked all the connections, continuity, voltage regulator, couldn't find any thing out of the ordinary.  Finally, upon closer inspection of the regulator with a mirror, found the contacts on one of the coils were welded together, and the leaf spring holding that contact was completely severed.  According to the manual, this is the "cutoff coil".  New regulator solved the problem.
Now the questions.
1. What could cause the rotor to be damaged?
2. What could cause the points to weld together?
3. Which likely failed first?  Did one cause the other?

4. I'm guessing the points stuck together first, and caused the leaf spring to break, so first the points were always "closed", and then always "open".
5. Would any of this cause damage to anything else, e.g., the battery?
Again, everything seems normal, now.  Battery holds charge well.

Mike

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nuckolls.bob(at)aeroelect
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2022 8:00 am    Post subject: Auto [Healeys] Electrics question Reply with quote

Quote:

Now the questions.

1. What could cause the rotor to be damaged?

I presume we're talking about a legacy
GENERATOR and ELECTRO-MECHANICAL regulator
and NOT and ALTERNATOR.


https://www.buggiesunlimited.com/images/products/17-176_B_large.jpg

http://aeroelectric.com/Pictures/Regulators/GENREG1.JPG


Quote:
2. What could cause the points to weld together?

Mostly age and time in service. Also,
depends on which points. The reverse
current disconnect relay carries armature
current and most likely to suffer a
weld failure.

Quote:
3. Which likely failed first? Did one cause the other?

Probably the regulator. There are features
in the regulator designed to control and
protect the generator. Some failure modes
will negate the protection leading to
generator failure following on the heals
of regulator failure.


Quote:
4. I'm guessing the points stuck together first, and caused the leaf spring to break, so first the points were always "closed", and then always "open".

Not sure how to parse this . ..


Quote:
5. Would any of this cause damage to anything else, e.g., the battery?

Probably not.


Quote:
Again, everything seems normal, now. Battery holds charge well.


Yup. Preventative maintenance is the
greatest prophylactic against dual
failure. Replacing the regulator after
200 hours or so combined with close
observation of brush wear on the generator
will go a long way toward preventing what
has become a very expensive repeat
event.

You might also consider a solid state
upgrade to the regulator. Rare but just
maybe possible. You would still need to
closely watch generator brush condition.

You could build a solid state regulator
too . . . I've seen some DIY articles in the
past.



Bob . . .

Un impeachable logic: George Carlin asked, "If black boxes
survive crashes, why don't they make the whole airplane
out of that stuff?"


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