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Paul M 383
Joined: 19 Mar 2012
Posts: 97
Location: United Kingdom
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 Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2022 8:38 am Post subject: OVP |
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The cited reference only offers replacement options; is there any way of fixing a duff regulator? … e.g. yours that had a low output: “last regulator's output was 13.79v” – how was that “easily fixed”?
Paul
G-PLPM
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h&jeuropa
Joined: 07 Nov 2006
Posts: 645
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| Posted: Mon Dec 19, 2022 12:16 pm Post subject: Re: OVP |
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Will contacted me directly and here are my replies to several posts above.
The common failure for Ducatti are the internal diodes. Ducatti uses a full wave rectifier circuit which has two SCR (controlled diodes) and two conventional diodes. The mechanical construction fails on the conventional diodes. Electrically, the diodes are connected to terminal G and terminal B so you can put external diodes to substitute or replace the faulty internal ones. The original diodes are rated at 1200 v and 45 A. You must also mount them on a heat sink. If you use diodes, the heat sink will be at +12V. A better solution is by using a bridge rectifier on a heat sink so the heat sink is electrically isolated. The bridge rectifier is 36MB120A (Newark Electronics PN 48F1234) and heatsink is Wakefield 403K (Newark Electronics PN 58F505). The rectifier is wired so that the two yellow wires going to G on the Ducatti also go to the two inputs on the rectifier (AC1 and AC2) and the wire coming from B on the Ducatti (output voltage) is also connected to + on the rectifier. The – terminal of the rectifier is not connected to anything. Wiring diagram is attached. The same diagram shows the diode for adjusting voltage and the crowbar OVP.
There was also a question about adjusting the voltage when using a Ducatti. To make the output voltage higher, just insert a diode in the C lead which is the voltage sense lead. That will make the regulator think the voltage is .5 volt too low, and adjust cause the output to raise .5 volt. I have this in place to get 14.2 for my EarthX. A 1N4001 will work fine.
Finally, my overvolt protection is a crowbar style purchased from B&C. I have a relay that connects the regulator output to the aircraft buss. The crowbar is across the coil of that relay, so if it trips, it will cause the relay to drop out.
There was a guy on the RV12 list that made a robust copy of the Ducatti regulator long before B&C produced theirs. I purchased the circuit board from him and built my own. It works good and it will output 25 A all day long!
Jim Butcher
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Duncan McFadyean
Joined: 18 Jan 2011
Posts: 219
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| Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 1:42 am Post subject: OVP |
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Fixed (as per the cited reference) by placing a diode in the sense wire. The regulator voltage is thereby increased by the voltage drop across the diode; select an ordinary diode or Schottky depending how much voltage increase is needed.
Duncan McF. [quote] <![endif]--> <![endif]--> On 19 December 2022 at 16:38 Paul Mansfield <europaul383(at)hotmail.com> wrote:
The cited reference only offers replacement options; is there any way of fixing a duff regulator? … e.g. yours that had a low output: “last regulator's output was 13.79v” – how was that “easily fixed”?
Paul
G-PLPM
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mau05160(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 8:05 am Post subject: OVP |
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I follow many discus on the Rotax regulator, in the past I use 3x912 engines and I have troubles with Ducati Reg. I install Ektik regulator and 4 years ago he is broken.
After many investigations on the web I discover on the "Aero Hesbayes web site" the regulator as follow:
P/N Shindengen Mosfet FH020AA regulators (official distributor)
I looked for a rectifier with draconian criteria and without any compromise:
- Good regulation (super stable voltage)
- Cheap
- Reliable
- Which does not heat up too much (no waste of energy)
- Easy to mount
- Light
I have install this reg since now 4 years with total satisfaction.
Michel
Builder 098 and 145
Le lun. 19 déc. 2022 à 17:41, Paul Mansfield <europaul383(at)hotmail.com (europaul383(at)hotmail.com)> a écrit :
[quote]
The cited reference only offers replacement options; is there any way of fixing a duff regulator? … e.g. yours that had a low output: “last regulator's output was 13.79v” – how was that “easily fixed”?
Paul
G-PLPM
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 792
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| Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 12:52 pm Post subject: Re: OVP |
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Hi Group We know that poor connections cause high resistance. Push a lot of current through a high resistance joint and it makes heat. As far as Rotax Faston connectors, many of the old engines have really crappy Fastons for the job at hand. Probably just plated copper. There are better Fastons made out of Phosphor Bronze. I urged B+C to make it known in the install manual, don't know if they did or not. Anyway I think they sell them as an install kit and hope they are including with the Regulator. At least the high current 2 yellow wires should have them installed. I bent mine to give a little extra tension and dabbed on a little CRC 2-26 (ACF-50 works too). I forget the name of the I think German Regulator Mfg., but it would not honor warranty unless Phosphor Bronze Fastons were used. Here's B&C link to their offering:
https://bandc.com/product/fk514-3-field-kit-avc1/
Ron P.
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Last edited by rparigoris on Tue Dec 20, 2022 1:41 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 792
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| Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 12:53 pm Post subject: Re: OVP |
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Hi Group FWIW as far as AVC1 goes, I used both grounds as suggested by B&C. Ron P.
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Mallard
Joined: 22 Oct 2019
Posts: 49
Location: Ireland
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| Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2022 2:29 pm Post subject: OVP |
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Ron,
I would not use ACF-50 as a conductor for the following reason. I also fly a Trike with a Rotax 582 & a couple of years ago I removed the starter motor to check the wear on the brushes. The starter housing (which is the negative connection) is mounted externally on the side of the engine using 2 large Allen Key headed bolts. As I've been using ACF-50 (bought in 4 Litres) for approx 10 years I always use it on nuts & bolts especially when I'm refitting them. On this occasion I dipped my 2 starter mounting bolts in the ACF-50 & duly screwed them in until hand tight & then fully tighten them with the Allen Key tool. I did an engine test start & run & all was perfect. A week or 2 later I had to fly to my Inspector's airfield for the aircraft's Annual Inspection. I started my Trike, took off, flew the 1.5hr trip, landed & shut down the engine. After the Inspection process was completed, I tried to start my engine for the homeward flight but the prop wouldn't even try to turn & neither would it with the assistance of battery jump leads from a running car engine! We eventually got the engine going by hand turning the prop. On the homeward journey I dropped into a friend's airfield for a chat & cup of tea. On departure I had the same starting problem again & as before, hand proping worked!
On arrival home I removed the starter & found that all of the starter's mounting base was coated in ACF-50. I dried all of it off along with the mating engine area & the 2 mounting bolts. The engine started on the first turn of the ignition key & hasn't failed to start in the 2 years since.
Lesson learned = don't put ACF-50 anywhere near an electrical connection!
Sent from Outlook for Android
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com> on behalf of rparigoris <rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2022 8:53:45 PM
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com <europa-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: OVP
--> Europa-List message posted by: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)hotmail.com>
Hi Group FWIW as far as AVC1 goes, I used both grounds as suggested by B&C. Ron P.
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