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TerryEdwards
Joined: 14 Nov 2019
Posts: 2
Location: Vancouver, BC Canada
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 Posted: Thu May 30, 2024 10:56 am Post subject: Fusible Link Terminals |
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I'm making 22-24 AWG fusible links for the Garmin shunts on my RV-9A using B and C's kit. Two questions:Is there any reason not to use knife splice terminals instead of the butt splice terminals between the fusible link and the aircraft 20 AWG wire? This would make it much easier to service in the event of a fusible link fusing.
Is there a minimum length of fusible link? The Aeroelectric Connection book states 4" (Page 10-4 04/00) and the Aeroelectric Connection Articles (with pictures) states 5-6". My shunt is right next to my firewall penetration. Would 2-3" be too short?
Regards,
Terry Edwards1159 Lombardy Drive
Port Coquitlam, BC, V3B 5Z3
Canada
Phone: 604-944-1969
Email: terry.edwards(at)telus.net (terry.edwards(at)telus.net)
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Ceengland
Joined: 11 Oct 2020
Posts: 386
Location: MS
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| Posted: Thu May 30, 2024 11:42 am Post subject: Fusible Link Terminals |
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On Thu, May 30, 2024 at 1:59 PM TERRY EDWARDS <terry.edwards(at)telus.net (terry.edwards(at)telus.net)> wrote:
| Quote: | I'm making 22-24 AWG fusible links for the Garmin shunts on my RV-9A using B and C's kit. Two questions:Is there any reason not to use knife splice terminals instead of the butt splice terminals between the fusible link and the aircraft 20 AWG wire? This would make it much easier to service in the event of a fusible link fusing.
Is there a minimum length of fusible link? The Aeroelectric Connection book states 4" (Page 10-4 04/00) and the Aeroelectric Connection Articles (with pictures) states 5-6". My shunt is right next to my firewall penetration. Would 2-3" be too short?
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I wouldn't; here's why. Places where we're likely to use fusible links are places where the circuit protection will activate only in truly catastrophic conditions, so the odds of replacing the link before replacing the aircraft are so close to zero that you probably can't find enough decimal places to measure it. Therefore....you're much more likely to have issues with the joints in the knife splices than with a blown link. In fact, you're almost certain to have issues with them at some point. Tangential example: my current (purchased) 20 yr old RV6 has in-line glass fuses in those sense wires, and I get erroneous current readings so often I completely ignore ammeter readings/warnings. Normal in-flight vibrations cause current readings to jump all over the place. I'll eventually fix it, but in-flight current measurements are almost totally useless so it's a very low priority.
One other issue: if you're using links in that location, be sure you have that 4-size difference between the wire & the link (18ga wire if using a 22ga link, etc).
(FWIW, nothing I build will even have an ammeter installed.)
Charlie
 Virus-free.www.avast.com[url=#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2][/url]
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