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evmeg(at)snowcrest.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 1:52 pm Post subject: loading the roof |
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OK guys...I've run into a problem. I finally committed to doing the fiberglass roof and the D*(at)&! thing does not seem to fit. The door openings in the aluminum fuselage are just a bit narrow (about 3/16" tight). I have sanded the glass down to about 3/16" thick at the door jams and it is still an extremely tight fit. I think if I really force it I can get it in there but I will likely fracture the door frame. That frame is going to get mighty flimsy if I keep cutting....I have already exposed the glass laminations and intend to put new epoxy in. Any suggestions?
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
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Deems Davis
Joined: 09 Jan 2006 Posts: 925
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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:12 pm Post subject: loading the roof |
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Evan,
I just checked my canopy/cover/roof, and I'm down to close to 1/8"
fiberglass thickness at the door jams, where the canopy fits between,
the aluminum uprights. I believe that other builders have also reported
that they also had to take off may more than they expected and more than
indicated in the plans. I don't think that what you're describing is a
significant problem.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse/Finish/Panel
http://deemsrv10.com/
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
Quote: | OK guys...I've run into a problem. I finally committed to doing the
fiberglass roof and the D*(at)&! thing does not seem to fit. The door
openings in the aluminum fuselage are just a bit narrow (about 3/16"
tight). I have sanded the glass down to about 3/16" thick at the door
jams and it is still an extremely tight fit. I think if I really force
it I can get it in there but I will likely fracture the door frame.
That frame is going to get mighty flimsy if I keep cutting....I have
already exposed the glass laminations and intend to put new epoxy in.
Any suggestions?
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com>
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
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pascalreid(at)verizon.net Guest
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 2:36 am Post subject: loading the roof |
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My fiberglass lip, at the outboard edges was just about completely sanded away before it slit into the fuselage frame. Also, be sure that you bend the tab on the forward vertical member of the fuselage (don't know the part number) so it does not hang on the fiberglass part.
do not archive
On Aug 14, 2006, at 12:10 AM, Deems Davis wrote:
[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: Deems Davis <deemsdavis(at)cox.net (deemsdavis(at)cox.net)>
Evan,
I just checked my canopy/cover/roof, and I'm down to close to 1/8" fiberglass thickness at the door jams, where the canopy fits between, the aluminum uprights. I believe that other builders have also reported that they also had to take off may more than they expected and more than indicated in the plans. I don't think that what you're describing is a significant problem.
Deems Davis # 406
Fuse/Finish/Panel
http://deemsrv10.com/
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
Quote: | OK guys...I've run into a problem. I finally committed to doing the fiberglass roof and the D*(at)&! thing does not seem to fit. The door openings in the aluminum fuselage are just a bit narrow (about 3/16" tight). I have sanded the glass down to about 3/16" thick at the door jams and it is still an extremely tight fit. I think if I really force it I can get it in there but I will likely fracture the door frame. That frame is going to get mighty flimsy if I keep cutting....I have already exposed the glass laminations and intend to put new epoxy in. Any suggestions?
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com <http://www.evansaviationproducts.com>
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
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evmeg(at)snowcrest.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:53 am Post subject: loading the roof |
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Ok guys, thanks for the info. I will just keep sanding on it. I sure wont be able to do it by myself now though, its getting too thin already. If I try to pick it up and drop it in place it will probably break up. Those aluminum upright bits are already interfering....I will have to grind some material off of both the alum. and the fiberglass to get them clear of each other. Man I hate the fiberglass part.
Evan
[quote] ---
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billderou(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:47 am Post subject: loading the roof |
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I had the same problem. Some tips:
1. Grind down and taper the edges of the alum tab in the lower door corners.
2. Sand the fiberglass vertical edges to a snug fit. (may be scary thin)
3. When you do the final seating of the cabin coat the alum surfaces around the door with a layer of T-88 or flox to provide a good "bed" for the 3 fiberglass door edges and provide support for the thin areas. Tighten the screws just enough to seat the cabin and let it dry. Later torque down the screws a bit more.
4. Option: Use soft rivets in place of the pop rivets. AN426A3-6 Back the pressure on your rivet gun to about 70psi and be gentle.
Good Luck.
Bill DeRouchey
billderou(at)yahoo.com (billderou(at)yahoo.com)
flying with 11 hours
Evan and Megan Johnson <evmeg(at)snowcrest.net> wrote:
[quote] Ok guys, thanks for the info. I will just keep sanding on it. I sure wont be able to do it by myself now though, its getting too thin already. If I try to pick it up and drop it in place it will probably break up. Those aluminum upright bits are already interfering....I will have to grind some material off of both the alum. and the fiberglass to get them clear of each other. Man I hate the fiberglass part.
Evan
[quote] ---
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redflyer(at)comcast.net Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 8:02 pm Post subject: loading the roof |
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Evan,
I know a RV-10 builder that cut the cabin top in the middle of the bars at the bottom of the door opening. I think he just took out about an 1/8", a saw blade thickness. That allowed the uprights to flex into the door opening. The seems to be a good solution as long as it doesn't affect the fit of the door. You could splice the cut with fiberglass but since it is screwed down anyway, I doubt it would make much difference. The cut is also in an area that is least needed for structure. That area of the cabin top primarily serves the purpose of a molding for the door. I haven't gotten that far. When I do that may be my approach.
Best regards,
Dave
[quote] --
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Tim(at)MyRV10.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:19 pm Post subject: loading the roof |
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Just to verify what Dave said, I remember hearing from someone at Van's
that the fiberglass below the screws is non-structural, so that
should be fine on the door bottom area.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Dave wrote:
[quote] Evan,
I know a RV-10 builder that cut the cabin top in the middle of the bars
at the bottom of the door opening. I think he just took out about an
1/8", a saw blade thickness. That allowed the uprights to flex into the
door opening. The seems to be a good solution as long as it doesn't
affect the fit of the door. You could splice the cut with fiberglass
but since it is screwed down anyway, I doubt it would make much
difference. The cut is also in an area that is least needed for
structure. That area of the cabin top primarily serves the purpose of a
molding for the door. I haven't gotten that far. When I do that may be
my approach.
Best regards,
Dave
--
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deruiteraircraftservices( Guest
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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 12:34 am Post subject: loading the roof |
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Hi Evan,
I found that position of the threstles(saw horses) can make quite a difference to the gap between the aluminum posts. I have no horses further forward than the mainspar, have another under the rearspar and one under the tailpost. The roof fit has to be done before the fuse goes on the gear.
m
[quote][b]
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jesse(at)itecusa.org Guest
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Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 5:36 am Post subject: loading the roof |
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I disagree with the gear comment, because it worked great for us after it was on the gear (gearlegs, at least, with no weight on the nose gear), but I wouldn’t be surprised if the position of your support makes a difference. There is more flex in the frame before the cabin top goes on than after. This would be worth a try, I think.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse(at)itecusa.org (jesse(at)itecusa.org)
www.itecusa.org
W: 352-465-4545
C: 352-427-0285
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of RAS
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 4:34 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: loading the roof
Hi Evan,
I found that position of the threstles(saw horses) can make quite a difference to the gap between the aluminum posts. I have no horses further forward than the mainspar, have another under the rearspar and one under the tailpost. The roof fit has to be done before the fuse goes on the gear.
m
Quote: | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List | 01234567890123
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