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elevator balance weight

 
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bicyclop(at)pacbell.net
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 9:50 pm    Post subject: elevator balance weight Reply with quote

Howdy list,

I've rebuilt the elevators on our 6 due to pedestrian damage. I went
with the .020 skins (previously .016) and am using the heavier lead
counterbalance weights recommended for these skins. Pre-paint, the left
elevator balances with only about an ounce or two on the trailing edge
while the right elevator is considerably more nose heavy without the
trim tab and associated structure. I'd like to remove some of the extra
weight from the right elevator before I rivet on the tip and paint, but
I'm concerned that the left elevator won't have enough c-balance weight
and I'll need extra on the right side to do the final balance on the
whole assembly rather than balancing each individually. I know that it
all depends on how heavy the paint is and I'm not sure what that will
be.

How much did you have to remove from the weights on your airplane to get
it to balance after paint? Did the left elevator have enough weight or
did it need make up weight on the other elevator?

Pax,

Ed Holyoke


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HCRV6(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 9:31 am    Post subject: elevator balance weight Reply with quote

Ed,

Not sure where you are coming from on this. After paint I had to add about 2 ounces to the left elevator and about 1 ounce to the right if memory serves me correctly. The paint definitely increased weight aft of the pivot, not forward as you are suggesting.

I balanced the elevators separately because once they are installed with the manual trim cable in place it would be impossible to get a meaningful balance indication.

BTW, the way I did it worked well by installing the added weight behind the existing weight pocket using a couple of rivnuts thru the elevator tip rib. Worked good for me.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours

[quote]-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>

[quote] --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke"



Howdy list,

I've rebuilt the elevators on our 6 due to pedestrian damage. I went
with the .020 skins (previously .016) and am using the heavier lead
counterbalance weights recommended for these skins. Pre-paint, the left
elevator balances with only about an ounce or two on the trailing edge
while the right elevator is considerably more nose heavy without the
trim tab and associated structure. I'd like to remove some of the extra
weight from the right elevator before I rivet on the tip and paint, but
I'm concerned that the left elevator won't have enough c-balance weight
and I'll need extr a on t ====== [quote][b]


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Dale Ensing



Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC

PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 10:12 am    Post subject: elevator balance weight Reply with quote

Van's phone person told me to do final balance of the elevators after they were joined (Without the manual trim control connected if that is your setup.)
Dale Ensing
[quote] ---


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_________________
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
Aero Plantation
Weddington NC
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bicyclop(at)pacbell.net
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:38 am    Post subject: elevator balance weight Reply with quote

Dale,

Yeah, we’ve got the manual trim. If it were the electric setup with the servo in the elevator, there’d be no way that the supplied weights would be enough to balance the left elevator separately even before paint. That would mean that the bolted together assembly would indeed be the only way to balance, short of adding weight to the left side. Perhaps it is of little value to balance them individually, but it is how I’d like to do it if possible. If they do become separated in flight, flutter will likely be the least of my problems. Wink

Pax,

Ed Holyoke

--


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bicyclop(at)pacbell.net
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 11:39 am    Post subject: elevator balance weight Reply with quote

Harry,

You’ve got me wrong. I do understand that the paint is going to move the balance point aft.

Van’s directions say that weight will have to be removed from the counterbalances by drilling holes implying that the weights are too heavy. The balance point is much further forward on the right side and I’m wondering if I can remove some of the extra weight now. I’m wanting to get a little closer to the correct weight so that I don’t have to swiss cheese it so much later.

One thing I did after asking the question yesterday was too attach the outboard weights to the elevators with rivets holding nutplates so that I’ll be able to remove the inboard weights and shave and/or drill the back sides where it won’t be visible.

Do you have the .020 skins and the .020 weights?

Pax,

Ed Holyoke

--


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HCRV6(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2006 9:19 pm    Post subject: elevator balance weight Reply with quote

Ed,

OK, I understand. I planned to fly my -6 before painting so I balanced the elevators first without paint, then had to add weight after painting to rebalance. Your approach sounds good if you plan to paint before first flight, then shave the weights as required to balance. Hopefully they are oversize to start with. When I built my elevators we still had to cast the weights into the tips.

Oh yes, I have the 0.016 skins.

Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours

[quote]-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop(at)pacbell.net>
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) }
Harry,

You’ve got me wrong. I do understand that the paint is going to move the balance point aft.

Van’s directions say that weight will have to be removed from the counterbalances by drilling holes implying that the weights are too heavy. The balance point is much further forward on the right side and I’m wondering if I can remove some of the extra weight now. I’m wanting to get a little closer to the correct weight so that I don’t have to swiss cheese it so much later.

One thing I did after asking the question yesterday was too attach the outboard weights to the elevators with rivets holding nutplates so that I’ll be able to remove the inboard weights and shave and/or drill the back sides where it won’t be visible.

Do you have the .020 skins and the .020 weights?

Pax,

Ed Holyoke

--


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