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lwinger
Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 229 Location: Tustin, CA
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Posted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 10:29 pm Post subject: When the rivet hole gets too big |
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When doing side two of my trailing edge rudder skin, one of my last holes "walked" on me. It was the end rivet on rear rib #3, and it became oblong in a big hurry. Ouch.
Since it is in a non-structural area, I'm looking for a good way to recover. BTW, I'm planning to paint the plane, so I'll have opportunity down the road to fill and shape if that is required/makes sense.
One lister has already suggested a larger rivet (A5) and JB Weld if there is still a void. What would you suggest?
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_________________ Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
Plans building 601XL/650 with Corvair
Installing fuel system
www.mykitlog.com/lwinger |
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dredmoody(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:02 am Post subject: When the rivet hole gets too big |
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Use the same size rivet WITH JB Weld freshly placed in the hole. That way
the final appearance is uniform, the strength is adequate and everyone is
happy. As the JB Weld starts to "gel" (watch your timing carefully) a clean
putty knife damp (not dripping wet) with denatured alcohol will allow you to
smooth any exposed epoxy material. 12 hours later, a little careful 400 grit
sand paper and you're groovin'.
Ed Moody II
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lwinger
Joined: 21 Jun 2006 Posts: 229 Location: Tustin, CA
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Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:28 am Post subject: Re: When the rivet hole gets too big |
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Ed,
If I understand correctly, shortly after I fill the hole with JBW I place the rivet and pull. Does the sudden action of the rivet pull run the risk of deforming the JBW and displacing a gob of it which might fall into the bowels of my rudder? If not, I'll likely go this route.
Another option I had considered was to JB Weld it before I debur the rudder skin. That way I can fill the void of the hole (with some kind of temporary backing), allow it to dry (using your putty knife/denatured alcohol approach), then hit it with the 400 grit sandpaper to reproduce a smooth outer surface that I can re-drill (the right way this time!).
What do you think?
| - The Matronics Zenith-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
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_________________ Larry Winger
Tustin, CA
Plans building 601XL/650 with Corvair
Installing fuel system
www.mykitlog.com/lwinger |
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dredmoody(at)cox.net Guest
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Posted: Sun Sep 03, 2006 1:52 pm Post subject: When the rivet hole gets too big |
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I've only built my first airplane, assisted on two others and am in the
middle of my own second plane so be warned my advice is based on only that
experience which is far from vast. With that disclaimer out of the way, I
wouldn't allow the JB Weld to set, then perfect it, then redrill and set the
rivet. I'd be afraid that the epoxy would, (A) have only the edge of the
hole to bond to, (B) would be only as about thin as the aluminum sheet
itself, and (C) would brake off when the rivet was squeezed (our Avex rivets
expand to fill slightly irreguar holes). I'm not 100% positive but that's
why I would do the JB Weld and the rivet in the same time frame. Don't gob
it on but if some does get into the bowels of the rudder, I don't think the
rudder bowel gods would be terribly overcome with wrath. The rivet will most
definitely displace the epoxy material.... some inside and some outside. The
excess on the outside I would conservatively remove (a little bead of the
stuff around the set rivet head wouldn't be a bad thing). The excess on the
inside would be the part I would count on to keep it in place and stable.
Remember like using the Black Death on an RV tank, if you have a cleco in
that hole clean in before the epoxy sets (alcohol work well).
Don't worry about this repair too much. If this is your greatest concession
to perfect aircraft construction, you are one blessed pilgrim, honestly.
Ed
Do Not Archive
Do Not get JB Weld in your bowels either
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