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darinh
Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Utah
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 Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 4:09 pm Post subject: Series 7 butt rib question? |
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I am installing the butt ribs on my 7 and have run into something that doesn't quite look right. Here is the situation:
When I position the #1 rib on the wing then allow for the 1/16" between the #1 rib and the butt rib, the rear butt rib tab (welded to the upper member of the door frame on the fuselage) does not have enough clearance between the hing bolts and the butt rib flange to allow for the rivets. The front tab is just fine with plenty of room but...I am installing a 912S so I am not putting in the 1 degree of sweep and have measured and remeasured from Rib #2 to Rib #1 and am absolutely sure I have the 34 1/2" required for the fuel tank at the leading and trailing edges. I have attached a couple of pics to help with the explanation...I this what I should be seeing and if so, what should I do about it?? If this doesn't look right, what might my problem be? These are factory rigged wings and I did not modify anything from the factory settings. I should say that I am using the aeroplastics bubble doors that are 1/8" thick so my hinge is spaced a tad bit more away from the fuse to allow for clearance, but I need around 3/8" to get the rivets into the flange of the butt rib.
Any ideas?
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| Rear tab, butt rib and #1 rib |
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jimcarriere
Joined: 27 Aug 2006
Posts: 22
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 5:10 pm Post subject: Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
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This is a little blurred, but I put a yardstick in there at the same time to maybe help...
This is the rear of my left butt rib. You can see the two rivet heads holding the butt rib to the tab, and the two holes in the tab for the rear door hinge. I can't take the same picture angle as you because that would be straight at my celing light, and if I turn it off there is too much glare from my camera flash... sorry.
I have the factory rigged wings, swept forward (although the difference on the rear tab should be negligible). The holes in my front tab look pretty similar to yours. The rear one, well, I'm not sure why yours isn't coming out. from the edge of the "B" pillar (vertical square fuselage tube that forms the back of the door) to the center of the rear through-bolt (that holds the rear wing spar to the fuselage) is about 1-1/4". From the edge of the #3 rib (the one next to the fuel tank) to the center of the rear through-bolt is 36-1/8" (left wing) and 36-1/4" (right wing).
Hope all this helps. Ask me to clarify if any of it doesn't make sense.
Jim in NW FL
Series 7 in progress
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jimcarriere
Joined: 27 Aug 2006
Posts: 22
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 5:12 pm Post subject: Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
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Sorry about the filesize everyone. I shrunk it to 64k but then uploaded the original, huge, file.
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Jim in NW FL
Kitfox Series 7 in progress
Rotec R2800 |
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darinh
Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Utah
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 5:24 pm Post subject: Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
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Jim,
Can you put a tape on that rear tab of yours and tell me what the dimension is along the bottom of the tab from the outside face of the door frame to the center of your rivet holes? Or, tell me how much of the tab you have protruding that will get trimmed? This way, I can measure mine and compare. By the way, what is that you have attached to the butt rib?...
Thanks,
Darin
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jimcarriere
Joined: 27 Aug 2006
Posts: 22
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 5:41 pm Post subject: Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
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Sure...
I will have to trim 13/16" from each rear tab, 3/4" from the front-right, and 7/8" from the front-left... I think the variation is because I had to bend all four tabs in a zig-zag shape to get them to meet the butt ribs. The bends probably all turned out different, but the important thing is the butt ribs are accurately located with respect to the inboard ribs. I sure hope my wings turn out straight!  But seriously, I think they'll be fine.
The dimension from the outside face of the door frame is a bit difficult for me to accurately measure, because of said bending of the tabs.
When I located the holes for the door hinges, I think I used duct taped everything in place (hinges, doors), and carefully drilled pilot holes... that was several months ago though, I'm not sure if that's exactly what I did.
I cut and attached some clear lucite plastic to the butt ribs. Six of one or a half-dozen of the other I guess. I did that so that I wouldn't have to sew windows into the butt-rib fabric. I still have to seal the gap between the butt ribs and the top of the door frames (will probably use a small strip of fabric for that).
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darinh
Joined: 20 Apr 2006
Posts: 327
Location: Utah
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 6:15 pm Post subject: Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
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Thanks Jim,
I have z-bent mine as well and I am coming up with basically the same numbers you are. I just measured 3/4" to be trimmed from the rear tab but it is not quite flush agains the bottom flange of the butt rib...I suspect with a bit more tweeking, I would be around the 13/16" you are measuring. One other quick question:
If you sight down the butt rib and the fuse header tube (that the little brackets rivet to, is there an equal distance at the leading edge and trailing edge (Between the butt rib and the fuse header tube) or does is decrease towards the trailing edge?
Thanks again,
Darin
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jimcarriere
Joined: 27 Aug 2006
Posts: 22
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 6:39 pm Post subject: Re: Series 7 butt rib question? |
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Darin, my left butt rib is pretty close to parallel and what I think you mean is the header tube (the tube parallel to and about 2" above the upper door frame). My right butt rib is actually almost 1/4" closer at the leading edge (wow!). I think that for no-sweep wings, the butt ribs wouldn't be parallel to the fuselage tubes at all.
Note I chose the forward swept wings, and one degree is about half an inch difference between the leading edge and trailing edge of the butt ribs. My butt ribs aren't parallel to each other; they are slightly more than 1" closer together at their leading edges than their trailing edges. Since they are 27" long, the trigonometry works out to very close to 1 degree forward sweep for each wing.
Now I'm wondering if my plane will fly straight. I should wait until flying it before installing the ball on my instrument panel
So much of this depends on the accuracy of the holes though the spars though.
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Jim in NW FL
Kitfox Series 7 in progress
Rotec R2800 |
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ddsyverson(at)comcast.net
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 7:11 pm Post subject: Series 7 butt rib question? |
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Darinh,
Judging from your photo, your butt ribs ended up at exactly the same position
in relation to the rear hinge & rivets as on my model 7 - which did not have
the quick build wings.
Here is what is important.
1) The wing ribs have to be in the exact place that the measurements put them
- quick build or slow build should be exactly the same.
2) The spar bolt holes are fixed in relation to the end of the spar, since the
ribs are fixed in relation to the spar, Rib # 1 is going to be where it is
going to be.
3) The butt rib must be adjusted to fit 1/16" from rib #1 to allow room for
the fabric
Remaining options? - unscrew the rear door hinge, put the butt rib rivets
under the hinge and either fabricate a spacer or relieve the back of the
hinge so the rivets don't hold it off the tab. A person may have to relieve
the inside of the butt rib to make room for the rear upper hinge nuts.
At least that is how mine worked out - doors fit fine, so do the butt ribs &
the hinges work smoothly.
Sincerey,
Dave S.
St Paul MN
M7
On Sunday 24 September 2006 7:09 pm, darinh wrote:
| Quote: |
I am installing the butt ribs on my 7 and have run into something that
doesn't quite look right. Here is the situation:
When I position the #1 rib on the wing then allow for the 1/16" between the
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