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leinad
Joined: 19 Sep 2006
Posts: 283
Location: Central Virginia
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 Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 3:56 am Post subject: Removing Rivets |
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First, I'll come clean. I used the wrong rivets in building my main spars. I found out before assembly the rest of the wing. These were the soft type A rivets not the required AD rivets.
For those of you interested in technic for removing rivets here's what I use.
First it's hard to get the drill in the center of a domed rivet head. I made a tool to simplify the job. The tool was just a short thick hex bolt, about 1/2 X 1-1/2 length. I center drilled this out the rivet diameter. On the hex end I opened the hole up the diameter of the rivet head. You can hold this down on the rivet head with one hand and drill the head until the hole is started. This puts it in the center every time. For my spars I made on for the #6 and one for the #5 size rivets.
Now I just hand hold the drill until I've drill just down to the surface of the part. Some times the head comes off at this point, some times you have to scrape it off with a screw driver or chisle.
After removing the head you need to drive the rivet out. I made a punch with a nail ground flat on the end. The nail should be small enough to fit loosely in a hole the size of the rivet hole.
Lay the part (spar in my case) flat on the bench and use narrow pieces of wood adjacent to the rivet you're going to drive out. Now just drive the sucker out.
I used the above method to remove all the rivets from my main spars and the parts were undamaged.
Dan Dempsey (central VA)
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Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine |
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dbortol
Joined: 02 Sep 2006
Posts: 46
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 5:47 am Post subject: Removing Rivets |
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While we're talking about removing rivets, I was struggling with removing some A5's from my stabilizer spar; it seems you always need three hands. I spotted my automatic center punch on the table and found what I think is an easier method. I've only used it (so far) on pulled rivets on the stab spar, which is fairly rigid - it may not work well on solid rivets or thinner material. The steps are:
1. Leave the mandrel in place. Drill the rivet head slowly with the same size drill as the rivet hole just until the head falls off.
2. Use the automatic center punch to pop the rest of the rivet out. It will be ejected cleanly and easily. Stubborn ones may take a few hits.
I put a little piece of rubber around the tip of the punch to cushion any contact between the body of the punch and the aluminum.
Dino Bortolin
La Salle, Ontario
XL/Corvair
On 9/24/06, leinad <leinad(at)hughes.net (leinad(at)hughes.net)> wrote:[quote] --> Zenith-List message posted by: "leinad" <leinad(at)hughes.net (leinad(at)hughes.net)>
...
After removing the head you need to drive the rivet out. I made a punch with a nail ground flat on the end. The nail should be small enough to fit loosely in a hole the size of the rivet hole.
...
[b]
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lrm(at)skyhawg.com
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 6:30 am Post subject: Removing Rivets |
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Since Jon Croke and I are rivet removing experts here is how we do it. Use an old rivet stem or better yet get the right size drift. It should be the same as the A5 stem or a little smaller. First punch you stem down a little with the drift, them drill the head. That's it, nothing to it. The head will pop off and the base will fall out. Jon has a lot more experience than me, he probably has removed thousands of rivets. I've only removed hundreds.
Larry N1345L, www.skyhawg.com
[quote] ---
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naumuk(at)alltel.net
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| Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 7:28 am Post subject: Removing Rivets |
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My method for pulled rivets is about the same.
Use the next size bigger drill to pop off the head. Don't push too hard and you won't do any damage, but the larger diameter bit gives you more torque.
Drive the mandrel out using the stem of a similar size rivet.
If you have a really stubborn one that can't be pulled out by hand at this point (Like a rivet going through an extrusion), drill through the middle using a bit suitable for silver clecos to weaken the walls. Without the mandrel, you get a straight hole and most of the time, the remaining rivet will come out while you're drilling. A tap with a center punch or gentle tug with regular pliers will free the rest.
For solid rivets and spar work, I used my drill press and a roller stand. Incidentally, when I said in an earlier post that I thought all spar rivets were ADs, I meant that all rivets used in spars were ADs, not that all rivets were ADs.
Anyway, if you don't have the dimple in your rivet and want to find center, use a lathe center drill. These are bits with a huge shank that tapers down to the final diameter with an extremely short final diameter bit length. They DON'T creep on you. Attached is a link to a reputable supplier.
http://www.jlindustrial.com/endeca/searchResults.jsp;jsessionid=DOEGPRYARBV5PLAUBIWCFEVMCQFC0IV0?_dyncharset=ASCII&ns=1&Ntt=center+drills&Ntk=Keyword+Search
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
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Float Flyr
Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland
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| Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 5:08 am Post subject: Removing Rivets |
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I use a pin punch of the correct size to remove mandrels. the steel in the punch is harder than the shank of a rivet and there is less chance of slipping and damaging a hole.
Noel [quote]
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Noel Loveys
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Aerocet 1100 Floats |
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