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Carlos Sa
Joined: 13 Jan 2006 Posts: 96
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Posted: Tue Oct 24, 2006 5:46 pm Post subject: picture of the day + question |
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Hello, listers
Here's a picture of the nose ribs (right outboard panel, CH601-HD) clecoed to the spar.
Probably one of the last -HDs being built these days...
The threaded rod with the wood blocks keeps the ribs parallel to each other. I only need to make
the first one perpendicular to the spar, and all the other will be in position.
The white stripes are pieces of masking tape that are holding rivet stems (steel), one on each
side of the flange (over kill, one would be more than enough). This way I'll be able to locate
the flange edges with a magnet when the ribs are covered with the skin. Already tested, and works
nicely.
Question: the construction manual says you should (a) rivet all the ribs to the spar; (b) rivet
the rear spar to the ribs (b) drill and rivet the rear (top and bottom) skins, and only then (e)
drill and rivet the nose skin.
I'm thinking that doing the nose skin first of all would make the fitting of the nose skin much
easier. But, I am afraid of painting myself into a corner - although I haven't seen a corner or
any paint...
Does anybody see any "gotchas"?
Thanks in advance for your insight
Carlos Sa
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada
do not archive (until a good answer is found ) )
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_________________ CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada |
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planejim(at)bellsouth.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 4:27 am Post subject: picture of the day + question |
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Carlos,
I built a 601HD 10 years ago. Your work looks great. I used the same method
to hold the nose ribs when I built my Midget Mustang I ( many years ago ),
the one and onle All Metal PDQ ( nearly 30 years ago ) and the HD. However,
I suggest you use the construction sequence of installing the top and bottom
aft skins first ( being very careful to keep the whole thing square and
level as you drill and rivet ) before installing the nose ( leading edge
skin ). You will probably use straps to pull the L/E skin into place. Having
the rest of the wing square and level ( and secured that way ) is important
when drilling the L/E skin in place. I built a twisted left wing the first
time around - be careful.
Also be aware that the nose ribs, even though you have them secured with the
wooden blocks and threaded rod, can still flex some. I would still put the
thin black line down the center of the flange of all the ribs, including the
nose ribs, before starting the drilling operation. When the 3/32" ( #40
bit ) hole is drilled through the skin, you will feel better to see that
black line just under the hole.
That is a unique trick using the rivet stems taped to the edges of the
flanges. I would never have thought of that and I've been doing this stuff
for about 50 years.
Good luck with your building.
Jim Hoak 601HD Rotax 912UL 532 hours.
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agustafson(at)chartermi.n Guest
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 5:06 am Post subject: picture of the day + question |
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How do I get to see these "pictures of the day? The latest photo that shows
up in the 'photoshare' site is in July.
Aaron Gustafson do not archive
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craig(at)craigandjean.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 12:00 pm Post subject: picture of the day + question |
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"pictures of the day" was just a phrase. Most of these have just been
attachments to e-mails. If you receive digests you don't get the
attachments. If you browse the lists on the Matronics web site you can see
the attachments.
-- Craig
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naumuk(at)alltel.net Guest
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Posted: Wed Oct 25, 2006 4:46 pm Post subject: picture of the day + question |
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Carlos-
Fully rivet the bottom skin, then cleco the top skin, finally cleco the
nose skin. Make absolutely sure you have the correct shims and NAIL THE SOB
DOWN TO THE WORKBENCH!!! Movement is death! Picture attached. Notice my
approach to squaring the nose ribs and the L blocks squaring the spar to the
bench and holding things in place. 'Nuf said.
Bill Naumuk
HDS Fuselage
Townville, Pa
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gboothe(at)calply.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 4:56 am Post subject: picture of the day + question |
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Carlos,
Sorry for the late reply - just received last week's e-mails. Thanks for
sharing the idea of holding the position of the nose ribs. I managed to
overcome the problem, but it wasn't as pretty as your method. I may be able
to make good use on the center section, though.
By now you have surely received several responses to your question about
positioning the nose skin before the top and bottom skin. My initial thought
is that it would not work so well, for two reasons:
1) The nose skin has to overlap the rear skins anyhow, which would
make fitting and drilling the rear skins difficult;
2) Sometimes, a great amount of force needs to be applied to the
straps to get the nose skin to completely make the bend. Having the rear
skins already attached gives the ribs enough strength to hold up to that
force from the straps.
Of course, my experience is with HDS wings, which may be slightly more
difficult as the outboard nose ribs change in size (not sure how that
compares to HD wings).
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
601 HDSTD, WW Conversion 90% done,
Tail done, wings done, working on c-section
..Question: the construction manual says you should (a) rivet all the ribs
to the spar; (b) rivet the rear spar to the ribs (b) drill and rivet the
rear (top and bottom) skins, and only then (e)drill and rivet the nose skin.
I'm thinking that doing the nose skin first of all would make the fitting of
the nose skin much
easier....
Does anybody see any "gotchas"?
Thanks in advance for your insight
Carlos Sa
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal, Canada
do not archive (until a good answer is found ) )
__________________________________________________
En finir avec le spam? Yahoo! Courriel vous offre la meilleure protection
possible contre les messages non nollicités
http://mail.yahoo.ca Yahoo! Courriel
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