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Empennage gap seal.

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carl.froehlich(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 3:42 pm Post subject: Empennage gap seal.

Another option is to drill all the longeron holes out to #28 and install

nutplates.  I did this on my RV-8A thinking that the soft aluminum threads

would strip out over time.  I am doing the same with the RV-10.



Carl Froehlich



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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 4:43 pm Post subject: Empennage gap seal.

I am really trying to not remove the HS, elevators, bellcrank attachment 

bolts, elevator trim cables to gain access to the longeron surfaces inside 

the tailcone.  I've taken all this apart too many times already.  I think 

because of the thickness of the longerons, 1/8" and the skin thickness, the 

drilling would have to be done from inside the fuse, otherwise the I don't 

trust my drilling to be square enough to the longeron surface both in a 

fore/ aft and up/down dimensions to drill from the outside and cross through 

the thickness of material to the inside and still be accurate.



The result might be a nutplate severly out of place from the original 

drilled hole.



It seems the only reason we will be removing this gap cover in the future is 

to change the rubber gasket.  I thinks the threads will hold with some 

threadlocker on them. Not planning on inspecting this area that often.



John G. 409

[quote]From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>

Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject: RE: Empennage gap seal.

Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 18:41:40 -0500






Another option is to drill all the longeron holes out to #28 and install

nutplates.  I did this on my RV-8A thinking that the soft aluminum threads

would strip out over time.  I am doing the same with the RV-10.



Carl Froehlich



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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 10:27 pm Post subject: Empennage gap seal.

Carl,



On further investigation, I believe you have a valid point.  I spent some 

time this evening simulating the situation with materials of the same 

thicknesses and determined that inorder to accept the dimples in the 

empannage gap plates, the tail cone skin and the longerons would have to be 

countersunk fairly deeply, which doesn't leave much material to make threads 

into.



I may make my own nutplates out of rectangular 1/8" aluminum, then the 

threads would have 1/8" plus the material left after the countersink is 

complete.  Those dimples in the plates sure take up some space.



John G.

[quote]From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich(at)cox.net>

Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject: RE: Empennage gap seal.

Date: Mon, 30 Oct 2006 18:41:40 -0500






Another option is to drill all the longeron holes out to #28 and install

nutplates.  I did this on my RV-8A thinking that the soft aluminum threads

would strip out over time.  I am doing the same with the RV-10.



Carl Froehlich



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dlm46007(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 3:14 am Post subject: Empennage gap seal.

It is simpler to use button head screws and ignore the CS. This will a mini 

amount of additional drag.

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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 7:53 am Post subject: Empennage gap seal.

This would be a simplier solution, but still think I will go the other way.



I have re read this part in the plans a few times and there are definetly 

several of errors in the way they wrote these directions.



What have people been doing to remove the metal chips that get stuck between 

the skin and the longerons as the existing rivets holding the skins are 

trapping everything.

JOhn G.



[quote]From: "David McNeill" <dlm46007(at)cox.net>

Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>

Subject: Re: Empennage gap seal.

Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 04:12:47 -0700






It is simpler to use button head screws and ignore the CS. This will a mini 

amount of additional drag.

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Rick S.

Joined: 12 Feb 2006
Posts: 347
Location: Las Vegas

Posted: Tue Oct 31, 2006 8:16 am Post subject: Empennage gap seal.

John,



I use a chip chaser, I thought it was a waste of $10 originally but it does work well. Even better is to prevent the chips in the first place. I mask off any cracks and such when possible to prevent them from dropping in in the first place...not always an option though.



Rick S.

40185

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_________________
Rick S.
RV-10
40185

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