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Cables and heat

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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 8:32 pm Post subject: Cables and heat

I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.

I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark

plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check

all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.



I found one thing and now have a suggestion.  My prop governor

cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge

of the heat muff area.  You could tell from the sagging green

plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.

The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok.  I'm

sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected

from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel

sheath.  My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape

to provide some reflection of the heat.  I think I should have

taken one more step though.  I have some fiberous, very high

temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick.  I should have wrapped

the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with

the aluminum tape.



My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed

when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat

shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around

a couple areas of his exhaust.  He had them near one of

the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for

protection for the lines.   I think this would be a good idea

in a couple areas.  So, as you're assembling the engine area,

take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within

3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.

I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding

for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.



-- 

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

do not archive

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zackrv8

Joined: 14 Jan 2006
Posts: 133

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 10:14 am Post subject: Re: Cables and heat

Tim,



  Where my throttle/mixture cables get close to the exhaust on my RV8, I wrapped them in firesleeve.  Definetly would be a bummer if these cables melted and were not able to move.



Zack

 	  Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote: 	
		  I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.

I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark

plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check

all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.



I found one thing and now have a suggestion.  My prop governor

cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge

of the heat muff area.  You could tell from the sagging green

plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.

The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok.  I'm

sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected

from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel

sheath.  My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape

to provide some reflection of the heat.  I think I should have

taken one more step though.  I have some fiberous, very high

temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick.  I should have wrapped

the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with

the aluminum tape.



My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed

when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat

shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around

a couple areas of his exhaust.  He had them near one of

the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for

protection for the lines.   I think this would be a good idea

in a couple areas.  So, as you're assembling the engine area,

take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within

3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.

I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding

for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.



-- 

Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

do not archive

- The Matronics RV10-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

_________________
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512

Tim(at)MyRV10.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 12:06 pm Post subject: Cables and heat

Absolutely!  That's why I brought it up...it's a possible safety gotcha.



Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

do not archive

zackrv8 wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Tim,

 

   Where my throttle/mixture cables get close to the exhaust on my RV8, I wrapped them in firesleeve.  Definetly would be a bummer if these cables melted and were not able to move.

 

 Zack

 

 

 

 Tim(at)MyRV10.com wrote:

> I got a good look around with my lower cowling off yesterday.

> I haven't had it off in quite a while, so with a full spark

> plug swap it was necessary and provided a good time to check

> all of the very bottom areas that I've not checked as often.

>

> I found one thing and now have a suggestion.  My prop governor

> cable was about 2-3" from the exhaust, just on the front edge

> of the heat muff area.  You could tell from the sagging green

> plastic that this cable had been quite warm at least once.

> The cable still operates smoothly, so it seems to be ok.  I'm

> sure there's a nylon guide inside, which hopefully was protected

> from additional heat stress by being surrounded by that steel

> sheath.  My quick fix was to wrap that area in aluminum tape

> to provide some reflection of the heat.  I think I should have

> taken one more step though.  I have some fiberous, very high

> temp cloth that's about 1/8" thick.  I should have wrapped

> the cable with some of that, and THEN surrounded that with

> the aluminum tape.

>

> My fuel lines don't get too close to the exhaust, but I noticed

> when Vic had his top cowl off that he had a couple of heat

> shields that he had made and attached with band clamps around

> a couple areas of his exhaust.  He had them near one of

> the fuel lines, to provide that air gap heat shield for

> protection for the lines.   I think this would be a good idea

> in a couple areas.  So, as you're assembling the engine area,

> take a good look at your exhaust and if anything is within

> 3" of it, start thinking of how you can shield it.

> I think it might even be nice to put additional shielding

> for heat rejection on those firesleeved lines.

>

> -- 

> Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying

> do not archive

 

 

 --------

 RV8 #80125 

 RV10 # 40512

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=72416#72416

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av8or(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 3:34 pm Post subject: Cables and heat

Another way to address the problem is to wrap  the exhaust pipe/header with exhaust heat wrap.  A friend of mine,  who's also an A&P, found the lower cowling on his RV-9A was getting to  hot from the exhaust pipes from the discoloring of the inside.  He  used exhaust/header heat wrap with great success.  It's available  at your local auto parts stores like Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc.  They  come in various widths and lengths.  He used the 1" x 50' roll for about  $35.  Here's a weblink to one: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101

  

 John Lenhardt

 #40262

 [quote]   ---

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coop85(at)bellsouth.net
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 5:09 pm Post subject: Cables and heat

I used some similar stuff on my Q-2 a long time ago and have a question for the group.  I was cautioned after the fact about the wrap possibly holding moisture and causing long term problems for the pipes.  As I think about it, holding moisture on something that gets really stinkin’ hot is somewhat doubtful in my mind but I was wondering if anyone else had hear similar or other concerns about wrapping the pipes.  

   

Thanks,

 Marcus  

40286  

         

  

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lenhardt

 Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:34 PM

 To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

 Subject: Re: Re: Cables and heat  

  

     

Another way to address the problem is to wrap the exhaust pipe/header with exhaust heat wrap.  A friend of mine, who's also an A&P, found the lower cowling on his RV-9A was getting to hot from the exhaust pipes from the discoloring of the inside.  He used exhaust/header heat wrap with great success.  It's available at your local auto parts stores like Advance Auto, Auto Zone, etc.  They come in various widths and lengths.  He used the 1" x 50' roll for about $35.  Here's a weblink to one: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101  

    

   

    

John Lenhardt  

    

#40262  

  [quote]    

---

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ScooterF15

Joined: 19 Jun 2006
Posts: 136

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:00 pm Post subject: Cables and heat

For what it's worth: I remember in the literature included with the  Vetterman exhaust system, Larry warned against using automotive pipe wrap on his  exhausts.

  

 Jim

  

 In a message dated 11/5/2006 8:13:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  coop85(at)bellsouth.net writes:

 [quote]      

I used some similar    stuff on my Q-2 a long time ago and have a question for the group.  I was    cautioned after the fact about the wrap possibly holding moisture and causing    long term problems for the pipes.  As I think about it, holding moisture    on something that gets really stinkinâ€™ hot is somewhat doubtful in my mind but    I was wondering if anyone else had hear similar or other concerns about    wrapping the pipes.   

    

Thanks,

Marcus   

40286   

             

   

From:    owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com    [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lenhardt

Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:34    PM

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Re: Cables and    heat

   

       

Another way to address    the problem is to wrap the exhaust pipe/header with exhaust heat wrap.  A    friend of mine, who's also an A&P, found the lower cowling on his    RV-9A was getting to hot from the exhaust pipes from the discoloring of    the inside.  He used exhaust/header heat wrap with great    success.  It's available at your local auto parts stores like Advance    Auto, Auto Zone, etc.  They come in various widths and lengths.  He    used the 1" x 50' roll for about $35.  Here's a weblink to one: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101

      

 

      

John    Lenhardt

      

#40262

   [quote]          

---

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zackrv8

Joined: 14 Jan 2006
Posts: 133

Posted: Sun Nov 05, 2006 7:22 pm Post subject: Re: Cables and heat

Scooter,



  Roger that.  I talked to Larry on the phone for about 15 minutes on this very subject.  He is totally against wrapping the pipes and also against coating the pipes.  I can't remember the exact converstaion (it was before LOE 2006), but it has something to do with the pipes being a heat sink on an aircooled engine.



Zack

quote="ScooterF15"]For what it's worth: I remember in the literature included with the  Vetterman exhaust system, Larry warned against using automotive pipe wrap on his  exhausts.

  

 Jim

  

 In a message dated 11/5/2006 8:13:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  coop85(at)bellsouth.net writes:

 [quote]      

I used some similar    stuff on my Q-2 a long time ago and have a question for the group.  I was    cautioned after the fact about the wrap possibly holding moisture and causing    long term problems for the pipes.  As I think about it, holding moisture    on something that gets really stinkinâ€™ hot is somewhat doubtful in my mind but    I was wondering if anyone else had hear similar or other concerns about    wrapping the pipes.   

    

Thanks,

Marcus   

40286   

             

   

From:    owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com    [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Lenhardt

Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 6:34    PM

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: Re: Cables and    heat

   

       

Another way to address    the problem is to wrap the exhaust pipe/header with exhaust heat wrap.? A    friend of mine, who's also an A&P, found the lower cowling on his    RV-9A was getting to hot from the exhaust pipes from the discoloring of    the inside.  He used exhaust/header heat wrap with great    success.  It's available at your local auto parts stores like Advance    Auto, Auto Zone, etc.  They come in various widths and lengths.  He    used the 1" x 50' roll for about $35.  Here's a weblink to one: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3638B&mfrcode=DEI&mfrpartnumber=010101

      

 

      

John    Lenhardt

      

#40262

    	  Quote: 	
		            

---

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_________________
RV8 #80125
RV10 # 40512

rvbuilder(at)sausen.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Nov 07, 2006 12:42 pm Post subject: Cables and heat

Sounds like bubkis to me.  You are better off keeping the heat in the

pipe and getting it out of the cowling.  Also, John Forsling has the

exact opposite recommendation. That being to have pipes ceramic coated

for the reason I mentioned.



  One big word of caution on using a wrap, the main reason a lot of

people don't like it in aircraft is because it happens to be good at

holding on to liquids like oil.  Not something you want in large

quantity in contact with a very hot exhaust and no way to pull over if

it ignites.



Michael Sausen

-10 #352 (2 more weeks to retrieving my project in TX)



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