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Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

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randy(at)romeolima.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 3:25 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Fiberglass gurus,



After trying to get the metal skirt to fit on my RV-3 I'm giving up -- I'm 

convinced God just didn't intend aluminum to be used for compound curves, 

fiberglass on the other hand is perfectly suited for that. No worries with 

laying it up and such (West Systems and 9 oz crowfoot e-glass), but what I'd 

appreciate some ideas on are how to craft a molding surface. I will pop 

rivet my tipover plexi bubble to the frame in every other hole, which I will 

later drill out, so there won't need to be an clecos and thus I can layup 

onto the plexi. But what do I use to create a form from the plexi down to 

the fuselage, or to bridge the gap along the sides? This is way too much 

area for the traditional modeling clay we use for intersection fairings.



If I use any sort of tape it will create an uneven layup and require lots of 

sanding and filling, something I'd rather avoid. I was thinking of using 

expandable foam around the front and rear sections (won't work on the sides) 

and then sculpting it. Seems like I heard that the cans of foam you can buy 

at Home Depot aren't good because they contain formaldehyde, not sure why 

that's bad though.

Spruce has Poly-Cell 100 Polyurethane Foam

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/polycel.php

and Liquid "X30" Foam

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/x30foam.php



Anyone had an experience with either of these? When using foam, do you lay 

up directly on it, or coat it with something first?



And lastly, what would be a good way to create a surface on the sides? 

Here's a pic of what I'm dealing with...

http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Gallery/DSC_0899.jpg



Thanks!

Randy Lervold

www.rv-3.com

www.rv-8.com

lifeofreiley2003(at)yahoo
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:10 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Randy,

   

  Check this out... www.rvpilot.com/RV9ACanopy/CanopyIndexPart2.htm

   

  Darrell

   

  do not archive

   

  



Randy Lervold <randy(at)romeolima.com> wrote:

  



Fiberglass gurus,



After trying to get the metal skirt to fit on my RV-3 I'm giving up -- I'm 

convinced God just didn't intend aluminum to be used for compound curves, 

fiberglass on the other hand is perfectly suited for that. No worries with 

laying it up and such (West Systems and 9 oz crowfoot e-glass), but what I'd 

appreciate some ideas on are how to craft a molding surface. I will pop 

rivet my tipover plexi bubble to the frame in every other hole, which I will 

later drill out, so there won't need to be an clecos and thus I can layup 

onto the plexi. But what do I use to create a form from the plexi down to 

the fuselage, or to bridge the gap along the sides? This is way too much 

area for the traditional modeling clay we use for intersection fairings.



If I use any sort of tape it will create an uneven layup and require lots of 

sanding and filling, something I'd rather avoid. I was thinking of using 

expandable foam around the front and rear sections (won't work on the sides) 

and then sculpting it. Seems like I heard that the cans of foam you can buy 

at Home Depot aren't good because they contain formaldehyde, not sure why 

that's bad though.

Spruce has Poly-Cell 100 Polyurethane Foam

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/polycel.php

and Liquid "X30" Foam

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/x30foam.php



Anyone had an experience with either of these? When using foam, do you lay 

up directly on it, or coat it with something first?



And lastly, what would be a good way to create a surface on the sides? 

Here's a pic of what I'm dealing with...

http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Gallery/DSC_0899.jpg



Thanks!

Randy Lervold

www.rv-3.com

www.rv-8.com





  



      "Do Not Archive"

   

  Darrell Reiley 



RV7A "Reiley Rocket"

  N622DR  Reserved

   

  





			

---------------------------------

kboatright1(at)comcast.ne
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:19 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the canopy and fuselage.  My 

cardboard of preference (from making the empennage fairing years ago) comes 

from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...



Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing tape, and volia, female 

mold...



Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote or similar shrink film, 

cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi and fuselage, and shrink 

the stuff into the shape you want.  Might even work.  (Note- put a layer of 

packing tape between the monokote and your canopy, or risk color 

transfer)...



KB

---

flyeyes(at)mac.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:43 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

On Jan 30, 2006, at 5:21 PM, Randy Lervold wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Fiberglass gurus,



 (snip)


	


Umm not really a fiberglass guru, but I think I can help here.

 	  Quote: 	
		   Spruce has Poly-Cell 100 Polyurethane Foam

 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/polycel.php

 and Liquid "X30" Foam

 http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/x30foam.php



 Anyone had an experience with either of these? When using foam, do  

 you lay

 up directly on it, or coat it with something first?


	


I recently helped someone do a _lot_ of fiberglass work on an RV-8,  

and the X30 foam completely rocks.  We mixed it in small cups ( like  

you would have next to a drinking fountain) by filling each cup about  

40%, and pouring back and forth until the foam started to kick off,  

then pouring it onto the work surface.  In 10 minutes it's ready to  

file or sand, or even add more foam.  It's not possible to make a  

mistake you can't fix in 15 minutes.  The foam is kind of porous, so  

we covered it with strips of carefully laid duct tape as a release  

after getting the surface we wanted.



This is the method I'm planning to use to redo my tail fairing, which  

has "bumps" between the fasteners.



The local EZ guys seemed to approve of our method, although they did  

seem somewhat amused by our slow pace...



James Freeman

 	  Quote: 	
		  

 And lastly, what would be a good way to create a surface on the sides?

 Here's a pic of what I'm dealing with...

 http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Gallery/DSC_0899.jpg



 Thanks!

 Randy Lervold

 www.rv-3.com

 www.rv-8.com

alexpeterson(at)earthlink
Guest

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 4:54 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Fiberglass gurus,


	


Well, that I'm not.  Is it possible to simply drape a single, lightweight

strip across the gap?  Let it cure and then build on that?  One might have

to go along every so often and give it a nip or tuck as it cures, but it

might work.  Pay attention to the bias of the weave, I'm not sure what would

be best in this case.



Alex Peterson

RV6-A N66AP 712 hours

Maple Grove, MN

Jerry Grimmonpre'

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 144
Location: Huntley, Illinois 60142

Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 5:22 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Some builder made a form out of his wife's panty hose and stretched the 

material over the gear leg to create fairings.   A release agent would have 

to be used where you don't want the stuff to grab.

My 1 cent worth ...

Jerry Grimmonpre'



Is it possible to simply drape a single, lightweight

 	  Quote: 	
		   strip across the gap?  Let it cure and then build on that?  One might have

 to go along every so often and give it a nip or tuck as it cures, but it

 might work.  Pay attention to the bias of the weave, I'm not sure what 

 would

 be best in this case.

truflite(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2006 8:00 am Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Kyle,



I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to

expand on this.



Monokote has a very glossy finish.  The resin may

still stick to the Monokote.  Use mold release wax on

the Monokote followed with PVA mold release.  Spray

multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote.  PVA

has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the wax. 

Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading.  When

finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote much

easier.



Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on Monokote.

 Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is reactive

to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the

surface clean.  Obviously, use proper ventilation and

protective safety gear.



BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol.  Any good fiberglass

supplier will stock this item.



Dave

--- Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> wrote:



[quote] 

 <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>

 

 You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the

 canopy and fuselage.  My 

 cardboard of preference (from making the empennage

 fairing years ago) comes 

 from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...

 

 Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing tape,

 and volia, female 

 mold...

 

 Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote or

 similar shrink film, 

 cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi

 and fuselage, and shrink 

 the stuff into the shape you want.  Might even work.

  (Note- put a layer of 

 packing tape between the monokote and your canopy,

 or risk color 

 transfer)...

 

 KB

 

 

 ---

mstewart(at)iss.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 8:28 am Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Posterboard and packing tape?

Chicken wire and packing tape?



Mike

Do not archive

--

randy(at)romeolima.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 1:19 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and I have a couple of rolls 

laying around. What is Monokote actually made of, and is there a chance that 

epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can you control what/where it 

adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off, the plexi in particular?

Anyone have more experience with it?

Randy

 	  Quote: 	

 Kyle,

 I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to

 expand on this.

 Monokote has a very glossy finish.  The resin may

 still stick to the Monokote.  Use mold release wax on

 the Monokote followed with PVA mold release.  Spray

 multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote.  PVA

 has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the wax.

 Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading.  When

 finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote much

 easier.

 Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on Monokote.

 Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is reactive

 to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the

 surface clean.  Obviously, use proper ventilation and

 protective safety gear.

 BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol.  Any good fiberglass

 supplier will stock this item.

 Dave

 --- Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net> wrote:

> 

> <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>

>

> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the

> canopy and fuselage.  My

> cardboard of preference (from making the empennage

> fairing years ago) comes

> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...

>

> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing tape,

> and volia, female

> mold...

>

> Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote or

> similar shrink film,

> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi

> and fuselage, and shrink

> the stuff into the shape you want.  Might even work.

>  (Note- put a layer of

> packing tape between the monokote and your canopy,

> or risk color

> transfer)...

>

> KB

truflite(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 5:00 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Randy,

Monokote is a plastic film used to cover model

aircraft.  It is heatshrinkable and has a heat

activated adhesive which is also the pigment.  

First off, DO NOT adhere Monokote to plexi!!!!!  I

have just started my project and I am not totally

familiar with the canopy area.  After reading the

posts regarding this, I was thinking that their was an

area on the fuselage at the canopy that was used as a

mold.  I would only attach Monokote to bare metal or

to a surface that is NOT reactive to acetone or dope

thinner.  Do not under any circumstances use acetone

or dope thinner on plexi.

If Monokote is the way you want to go, consider the

following.  Buy a Monokote iron from a hobby shop,

about $20.  Follow the directions therein. When

attaching, only seal the edges down.  When shrinking

the rest, do not press down on the iron.  Let the

weight of the iron do the work.  Shrink the Monokote

till all wrinkles are gone.  Make your layups with

suitable mold release products.

Upon removal, you will find some of the Monokote will

have adhered to sealed edge areas and quite possibly

the center as well.  Use acetone or dope thinner in a

clean rag with proper ventilation and safety equipment

to remove the adhered Monokote. 

You will find the inside of your lamination to be

glass smooth which I would lightly sand to break the

glaze.  Use                                           

      your favorite adhesive to attach the skirt to

the canopy.  

I have used Monokote to cover model aircraft for 30

years and for mold making because it makes a smooth

surface without a great deal of work.

One last thought, if you put Monokote on the plexi,

only put it on the area that would be under the skirt.

 To remove it from the plexi, use a small orbital

sander with a fine grit paper.  I am guessing that you

would need to rough this surface up anyways.  I

re-iterate, do not use solvents on the plexi.

Dave

--- Randy Lervold <randy(at)romeolima.com> wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 <randy(at)romeolima.com>

 Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and I

 have a couple of rolls 

 laying around. What is Monokote actually made of,

 and is there a chance that 

 epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can

 you control what/where it 

 adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off, the

 plexi in particular?

 Anyone have more experience with it?

 Randy

 > 

 <truflite(at)yahoo.com>

 >

 > Kyle,

 >

 > I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to

 > expand on this.

 >

 > Monokote has a very glossy finish.  The resin may

 > still stick to the Monokote.  Use mold release wax

 on

 > the Monokote followed with PVA mold release. 

 Spray

 > multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote. 

 PVA

 > has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the

 wax.

 > Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading. 

 When

 > finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote

 much

 > easier.

 >

 > Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on

 Monokote.

 > Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is

 reactive

 > to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the

 > surface clean.  Obviously, use proper ventilation

 and

 > protective safety gear.

 >

 > BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol.  Any good

 fiberglass

 > supplier will stock this item.

 >

 > Dave

 >

 >

 > --- Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>

 wrote:

 >

 >> 

 >> <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>

 >>

 >> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the

 >> canopy and fuselage.  My

 >> cardboard of preference (from making the

 empennage

 >> fairing years ago) comes

 >> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...

 >>

 >> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing

 tape,

 >> and volia, female

 >> mold...

 >>

 >> Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote

 or

 >> similar shrink film,

 >> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi

 >> and fuselage, and shrink

 >> the stuff into the shape you want.  Might even

 work.

 >>  (Note- put a layer of

 >> packing tape between the monokote and your

 canopy,

 >> or risk color

 >> transfer)...

 >>

 >> KB

 browse

 Subscriptions page,

 FAQ,

 Admin.

skylor4(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 10:25 am Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

One suggestion for Monokote:



Top Flight makes clear Monokote that doesn't have any

pigment in the adhesive (at least they did 20 years

ago, when I was really into models).  This way, if any

adhesive gets onto the plexi, at least it's clear and

won't be very visible...



I know for a fact that Aerovironment uses Monokote or

similar coverings to cover some of their molds that

they shape from foam, so this concept should work just

fine.



Skylor

RV-8QB

Under Construction



--- Dave Nellis <truflite(at)yahoo.com> wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <truflite(at)yahoo.com>

 

 Randy,

 

 Monokote is a plastic film used to cover model

 aircraft.  It is heatshrinkable and has a heat

 activated adhesive which is also the pigment.  

 

 First off, DO NOT adhere Monokote to plexi!!!!!  I

 have just started my project and I am not totally

 familiar with the canopy area.  After reading the

 posts regarding this, I was thinking that their was

 an

 area on the fuselage at the canopy that was used as

 a

 mold.  I would only attach Monokote to bare metal or

 to a surface that is NOT reactive to acetone or dope

 thinner.  Do not under any circumstances use acetone

 or dope thinner on plexi.

 

 If Monokote is the way you want to go, consider the

 following.  Buy a Monokote iron from a hobby shop,

 about $20.  Follow the directions therein. When

 attaching, only seal the edges down.  When shrinking

 the rest, do not press down on the iron.  Let the

 weight of the iron do the work.  Shrink the Monokote

 till all wrinkles are gone.  Make your layups with

 suitable mold release products.

 

 Upon removal, you will find some of the Monokote

 will

 have adhered to sealed edge areas and quite possibly

 the center as well.  Use acetone or dope thinner in

 a

 clean rag with proper ventilation and safety

 equipment

 to remove the adhered Monokote. 

 

 You will find the inside of your lamination to be

 glass smooth which I would lightly sand to break the

 glaze.  Use                                         

  

       your favorite adhesive to attach the skirt to

 the canopy.  

 

 I have used Monokote to cover model aircraft for 30

 years and for mold making because it makes a smooth

 surface without a great deal of work.

 

 One last thought, if you put Monokote on the plexi,

 only put it on the area that would be under the

 skirt.

  To remove it from the plexi, use a small orbital

 sander with a fine grit paper.  I am guessing that

 you

 would need to rough this surface up anyways.  I

 re-iterate, do not use solvents on the plexi.

 

 Dave

 

 

 --- Randy Lervold <randy(at)romeolima.com> wrote:

 

 > 

 > <randy(at)romeolima.com>

 > 

 > Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and

 I

 > have a couple of rolls 

 > laying around. What is Monokote actually made of,

 > and is there a chance that 

 > epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can

 > you control what/where it 

 > adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off,

 the

 > plexi in particular?

 > 

 > Anyone have more experience with it?

 > 

 > Randy

 > 

 > 

 > 

 > > 

 > <truflite(at)yahoo.com>

 > >

 > > Kyle,

 > >

 > > I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts

 to

 > > expand on this.

 > >

 > > Monokote has a very glossy finish.  The resin

 may

 > > still stick to the Monokote.  Use mold release

 wax

 > on

 > > the Monokote followed with PVA mold release. 

 > Spray

 > > multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote. 

 > PVA

 > > has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the

 > wax.

 > > Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading.

 

 > When

 > > finished, the the piece will pop off the

 Monokote

 > much

 > > easier.

 > >

 > > Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on

 > Monokote.

 > > Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is

 > reactive

 > > to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe

 the

 > > surface clean.  Obviously, use proper

 ventilation

 > and

 > > protective safety gear.

 > >

 > > BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol.  Any good

 > fiberglass

 > > supplier will stock this item.

 > >

 > > Dave

 > >

 > >

 > > --- Kyle Boatright <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>

 > wrote:

 > >

 > >> 

 > >> <kboatright1(at)comcast.net>

 > >>

 > >> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between

 the

 > >> canopy and fuselage.  My

 > >> cardboard of preference (from making the

 > empennage

 > >> fairing years ago) comes

 > >> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...

 > >>

 > >> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing

 > tape,

 > >> and volia, female

 > >> mold...

 > >>

 > >> Alternately, you could get yourself some

 Monokote

 > or

 > >> similar shrink film,

 > >> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the

 plexi

 > >> and fuselage, and shrink

 > >> the stuff into the shape you want.  Might even

 > work.

 > >>  (Note- put a layer of

 > >> packing tape between the monokote and your

 > canopy,

 > >> or risk color

 > >> transfer)...

 > >>

 > >> KB

 > 

 > 

 > 

 > 

 >

 > browse

 > Subscriptions page,

 > FAQ,

 >

 > Admin.

 >

 > 

 > 

 > 

 >  

 >  

 >  

 > 

 > 

 > 

 > 

 

 

 

 

 



 browse

 Subscriptions page,

 FAQ,

 

=== message truncated ===

Dale Ensing

Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 571
Location: Aero Plantation Weddington NC

Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 3:16 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Randy,

My memory from RC days tells me that Monokote is made from Mylar.

Another thing.........As you probably know, when you shrink it the profile will be that of a straight lines between two points. In other words, unless all points on the perimeter of the Monokote are in the same flat plane the surface will be a compound curve. The canopy skirts on an RV-3 do not appear to be a flat. Think of what Monokote looks like on an unsheeted RC wing with the recessed areas between the ribs.

Dale Ensing

_________________
Dale Ensing
RV-6A
Aero Plantation
Weddington NC

rv8iator(at)earthlink.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 7:06 am Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Randy...



Monokote and all the other model coverings are polyester film or woven polyester fiber.  Polyester resin will stick to the film but will not bond to it.  Definitely use mold release.  There are also clear films available that are used as commercial masking film.  Some of these I believe are Mylar.  



Hope this helps...



Chris Stone

Newberg, OR

2x RV8

--

randy(at)romeolima.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 8:38 am Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

 	  Quote: 	
		   Monokote and all the other model coverings are polyester film or woven 

 polyester fiber.  Polyester resin will stick to the film but will not bond 

 to it.  Definitely use mold release.  There are also clear films available 

 that are used as commercial masking film.  Some of these I believe are 

 Mylar.



 Hope this helps...



 Chris Stone

 Newberg, OR

 2x RV8


	


Chris (or anyone), will epoxy stick to it? I'll be laying up with West 

Systems.



Thanks,

Randy

hawk(at)digisys.net
Guest

Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 10:53 am Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Chris,

Just a note for people who might be contemplating using polyester resin for 

their windshield and canopy fairings... there are many entries in the 

archives warning of damage to the canopy plastic when in contact with even 

tiny amounts of the polyester resin components, or even the fumes.  It would 

seem to be much safer to use epoxy based systems in these areas.



Hawkeye Hughes

Polson MT      Skyote, RV-3

---

cjensen(at)dts9000.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 12:30 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Polyester resins typical have styrene as a solvent carrier.  Styrene

will melt plexiglass.  Epoxies do not have styrene content.



Chuck Jensen

--

truflite(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 8:56 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Here is something else.  Polyester hardens and appears

to cure, but it never fully cures.  It is always

chemically active.  With age, polyester will change

shape as it cures.  Heat will accelerate this curing

and shape changing.  I have used polyester in model

aircraft cowls and have noticed flared edges and once

flat surfaces are now wavy.  I now only use epoxy for

any layup.



Dave Nellis

--- REHughes <hawk(at)digisys.net> wrote:



[quote] 

 <hawk(at)digisys.net>

 

 Chris,

 Just a note for people who might be contemplating

 using polyester resin for 

 their windshield and canopy fairings... there are

 many entries in the 

 archives warning of damage to the canopy plastic

 when in contact with even 

 tiny amounts of the polyester resin components, or

 even the fumes.  It would 

 seem to be much safer to use epoxy based systems in

 these areas.

 

 Hawkeye Hughes

 Polson MT      Skyote, RV-3

 

 

 ---

Bruce(at)glasair.org
Guest

Posted: Fri Feb 03, 2006 9:12 pm Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Phoey!!! Polyester will continue to shrink, vynalester will not, epoxy fumes

can kill you.



Bruce

www.glasair.org

 



--

rv8iator(at)earthlink.net
Guest

Posted: Mon Feb 06, 2006 7:14 am Post subject: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch

Randy et al...



The short answer is yes...  But again it will not form a molecular bond only superficial adhesive bond.  I would still recommend a mold release agent.



cs

--

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