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engine baffle safety wire

 
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sarg314(at)comcast.net
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 3:35 pm    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in the
safety wire on the underside of the cylinders that is supposed to pull
the lower ends of the baffles tight around the cooling fins. I just
stretched a string across there today and it is clear that the safety
wire would rub against one of the oil return lines. It's the same story
on both sides of the engine.

I guess I could extend the little flange of the baffle to reposition
the safety wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a little bracket of
some sort to the to the intercylinder baffle to push the wire down.
(Come to think of it, it would probably wear through anything I put there.)

Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or am I
missing something here?
--
Tom S., RV-6A, wiring


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dan(at)rvproject.com
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 4:34 pm    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

As per Van's, I used thick-walled plastic tubing...the same stuff used for
brake tubing in some spots. The safety wire runs through the plastic, and
the plastic serves as anti-chafe.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1162 hours)
www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com

---


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Vanremog(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:00 pm    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

In a message dated 12/28/2006 3:39:35 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, sarg314(at)comcast.net writes:
Quote:
My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in the
safety wire on the underside of the cylinders that is supposed to pull
the lower ends of the baffles tight around the cooling fins. I just
stretched a string across there today and it is clear that the safety
wire would rub against one of the oil return lines. It's the same story
on both sides of the engine.

I guess I could extend the little flange of the baffle to reposition
the safety wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a little bracket of
some sort to the to the intercylinder baffle to push the wire down.
(Come to think of it, it would probably wear through anything I put there.)

Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or am I
missing something here?


======================================

Mine are threaded rods from the hobby store that I bent a joggle in fitted with springs (to allow for movement) and high temp lock nuts and they have worked fine.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 830hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)

[quote][b]


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rv8a2001(at)yahoo.com
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:03 pm    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

I used a threaded rod.....(4-40? dont remember) to pull the baffles together and to keep it from rubbing on the tubes I placed car fuel line over the drain tubes....you know, slice it down one side and slip it on, 400 plus hours and it works great.....so far!

Scott Bilinski
RV-8a


---


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George McNutt



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 30

PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:04 pm    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

Hi Tom

Wire will eventually cut through the baffle tabs. If you want a nice fix
use 1/8 stainless welding rod instead of wire.
After cutting and forming, thread each end of the rod for #4 fiber lock
nuts. To allow for expansion & contraction use washers then small
compression springs between the nut and baffle flange (flanges are held
by spring pressure not nut tension). The welding rod is stiff enough
that it does not need to run straight and can be shaped to fit
under/around the oil line.

George in Langley BC

Tom wrote ----------------------------
Quote:
My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in the
safety wire on the underside of the cylinders that is supposed to pull
the lower ends of the baffles tight around the cooling fins. I just
stretched a string across there today and it is clear that the safety
wire would rub against one of the oil return lines. It's the same
story on both sides of the engine.

I guess I could extend the little flange of the baffle to
reposition the safety wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a
little bracket of some sort to the to the intercylinder baffle to push
the wire down. (Come to think of it, it would probably wear through
anything I put there.)

Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or am
I missing something here?
--
Tom S., RV-6A, wiring



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bertrv6(at)highstream.net
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 5:07 pm    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

Quoting Dan Checkoway <dan(at)rvproject.com>:

[quote]

As per Van's, I used thick-walled plastic tubing...the same stuff used for
brake tubing in some spots. The safety wire runs through the plastic, and
the plastic serves as anti-chafe.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1162 hours)
www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com

---


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bo124rs(at)hotmail.com
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 6:38 pm    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

Quote:
From: G McNutt <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>

Quote:
Wire will eventually cut through the baffle tabs. George in Langley BC


George, nice fix. However, Tom if you do want to go with the safety wire,
use a washer on the outside of the tab. This will add more meat than just
the tab and address the issue of the safety wire cutting through the tab.

Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive

_________________________________________________________________
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phil(at)petrasoft.net
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 7:29 pm    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

Yep, that's the ticket. Simple and effective but Dan forgot his own
hint about using small washers on each end of the safety wire to keep
the wire from pulling through the aluminum baffles.

Don't make it more complicated than it needs to be.

Phil
On Dec 28, 2006, at 6:33 PM, Dan Checkoway wrote:

[quote]

As per Van's, I used thick-walled plastic tubing...the same stuff
used for brake tubing in some spots. The safety wire runs through
the plastic, and the plastic serves as anti-chafe.

)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1162 hours)
www.rvproject.com / www.weathermeister.com

---


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randy(at)romeolima.com
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 8:43 pm    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

I used a bit different method... I first riveted a doubler on the flanges,
then used a pop rivet where the safety wire goes through the flange with the
mandrel punched out. The safety wire goes through the pop rivet then.
Provides better protection from the safety wire than a washer.

Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com

---


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Terry Watson



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 290
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 9:31 pm    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

I believe the plans for the baffle show a fairly heavy aluminum doubler at
those tabs. I think I used 1/8" stock.

Terry


Quote:
From: G McNutt <gmcnutt(at)shaw.ca>

Quote:
Wire will eventually cut through the baffle tabs. George in Langley BC


George, nice fix. However, Tom if you do want to go with the safety wire,
use a washer on the outside of the tab. This will add more meat than just
the tab and address the issue of the safety wire cutting through the tab.

Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackwing1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive


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Mark Phillips in TN



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 431
Location: Columbia, TN

PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 5:35 am    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

In a message dated 12/28/2006 9:34:14 PM Central Standard Time, phil(at)petrasoft.net writes:
Quote:
Yep, that's the ticket. Simple and effective but Dan forgot his own
hint about using small washers on each end of the safety wire to keep
the wire from pulling through the aluminum baffles.

>>>
I riveted "doublers" (maybe .040 or .063?) the same size as the tabs on the ends of the baffles before drilling the holes for the safety wire- no significant wear from safety wire so far (375 hrs) but would be hard to do with baffles already installed...

Mark
[quote][b]


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rv8striker(at)hotmail.com
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 6:17 am    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

I'll throw my two cents worth in on this on.

I used the twisted safety wire inside the tubing as some have mentioned and
attached the wire to the reinforced tabs with a cotter pin bent like a "T".
The wires attach to the eyes of the cotter pins at each end. I put a washer
under the cotter pin "legs" to protect from chafing the tabs. I just
finished my first annual and they look like new.

I can send a picture (1000 words?) to anyone wanting one off list.

Steve Struyk
RV-8, 75 hours.
St. Charles, MO
---


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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 7:29 am    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

You guys are all paranoid! (Come on, its a joke!) Just wire 'em up and get the thing flying. Mine has been flying 2 years now and I can't see where the safety wire has cut into the baffle at all.  When it does, I'll fix it. As for the oil return lines, I think I just bent them up or down a little to clear the wires.

Dan Hopper
RV-7A about 200 hours

[quote][b]


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ghinman(at)mts.net
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 9:49 am    Post subject: engine baffle safety wire Reply with quote

My engine baffles were installed long ago, but I never put in the
safety wire on the underside of the cylinders that is supposed to pull
the lower ends of the baffles tight around the cooling fins. I just
stretched a string across there today and it is clear that the safety
wire would rub against one of the oil return lines. It's the same story
on both sides of the engine.

I guess I could extend the little flange of the baffle to reposition
the safety wire attach point lower, or I could rivet a little bracket of
some sort to the to the intercylinder baffle to push the wire down.
(Come to think of it, it would probably wear through anything I put there.)

Does any one have a tried and true solution to this problem? Or am I
missing something here?
--
Tom S., RV-6A, wiring
I had the same problem and replaced two of the aluminum tube
lines,to make room for the wires that hold the baffle

George H. Inman
ghinman(at)mts.net


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