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DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com
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 Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 9:45 pm Post subject: Elevator movement |
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Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag freely. They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center bolt under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth movement just the same. Anyone have this experience?
Dave Leikam
40496
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acs(at)acspropeller.com.a
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| Posted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 11:40 pm Post subject: Elevator movement |
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Not for me Dave, I'd have to say mine easily and freely sagged. Obviously, backtrack the last thing that was O.K and try removing the centre bolt under the VS to see what action that is causing. Have you connected up the control tube to the bell crank at the battery box or is it dragging gently somewhere? I can't see what would be tight unless it's the elevator horn assembly and some leverage on the centre bearing or dragging on one of the rod end bearings at the elevator connections. I'd double check that. Maybe have a look at your hardware to see if there's any rubbing of the cad for a clue.
John 40315
[quote] ---
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
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| Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 4:42 am Post subject: Elevator movement |
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That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with the AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull that bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected to the pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a time, where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on the AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at a time to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not that the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get that hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting in the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended up having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling. Also, on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead of a block of wood as Van’s suggests, and make sure that when you measure to drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other, because that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody having the horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over ½ inch out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say that they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it is pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
To: matronics
Subject: Elevator movement
Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag freely. They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center bolt under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth movement just the same. Anyone have this experience?
Dave Leikam
40496
[quote] [b]
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dmaib@me.com
Joined: 25 Apr 2006
Posts: 454
Location: New Smyrna Beach, Florida
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| Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 5:24 am Post subject: Elevator movement |
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My drill bushing did not fit the bearing at all. Since I do not have access to a lathe, I did as the plans suggest and worked it down with a file. My horns were a bit out of alignment, but not enough to cause any problems. I used a block of wood per the plans and believe I got the holes lined up very well. I will be fitting it all together this weekend, so will know for sure if everything is OK.
David Maib
#40559
On Jan 26, 2007, at 6:41 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with the AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull that bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected to the pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a time, where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on the AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at a time to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not that the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get that hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting in the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended up having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling. Also, on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead of a block of wood as Van’s suggests, and make sure that when you measure to drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other, because that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody having the horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over ½ inch out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say that they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it is pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Dave LeikamSent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AMTo: matronicsSubject: Elevator movement
Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag freely. They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center bolt under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth movement just the same. Anyone have this experience?
Dave Leikam
40496
01234
5
[quote][b]
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_________________
David Maib
RV-10 #40559
New Smyrna Beach, FL |
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jjessen
Joined: 22 Apr 2006
Posts: 285
Location: OR
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| Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 9:36 am Post subject: Elevator movement |
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Where do you get a block of al that size? And why use it instead of the wood? Is it more exacting?
John J
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 4:42 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Elevator movement
That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with the AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull that bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected to the pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a time, where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on the AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at a time to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not that the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get that hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting in the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended up having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling. Also, on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead of a block of wood as Van’s suggests, and make sure that when you measure to drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other, because that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody having the horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over ½ inch out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say that they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it is pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
To: matronics
Subject: Elevator movement
Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag freely. They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center bolt under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth movement just the same. Anyone have this experience?
Dave Leikam
40496
| Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
01234
5 [quote][b]
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
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| Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 11:01 am Post subject: Elevator movement |
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The bit can work sideways in the wood if you’re not careful, but if you get a block of aluminum and drill it with a drill press, then you have a good square hole that will also help hold the bit while drilling. You can have a #30, #19 and 3/16” hole in the block and move it around for the different drill bits to get to final size. There should be a supply house locally that would have a piece like that.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Jessen
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:35 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Elevator movement
Where do you get a block of al that size? And why use it instead of the wood? Is it more exacting?
John J
do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 4:42 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Elevator movement
That sounds to me like the holes in the horns that bolt together with the AN4-13A (or whatever it is) night not be quite lined up. I would pull that bolt out and see if that makes the difference. If you are connected to the pushrod, pull that off as well and find out, adding one thing at a time, where the problem is. I know it is a pain to get those washers in on the AN4 bolt, but removing a number of things and then adding them one at a time to see what makes the difference would be my suggestion. If it is not that the holes are misaligned, then it could be that you have too many/few washers around that bearing and it is getting a little distorted when tightened and putting drag on the system. It is not hard at all to get that hold a little off center, so that is where I would recommend looking.
BTW, did anybody else have problems with the drill bushing not fitting in the bearing. With a lathe that problem is easily fixed, but we ended up having to have a bushing machined from scratch to do that drilling. Also, on drilling the horns for the pushrod, use a block of aluminum instead of a block of wood as Van’s suggests, and make sure that when you measure to drill the first horn that it is not hanging lower than the other, because that might put you too close to the edge of the second. Anybody having the horns quite a bit out of alignment? I have seen some that are over ½ inch out of alignment and others that are perfectly lined up. The plans say that they might not be quite right, but that is a lot of variation.
Hope this helps. I was working on that exact thing this week, so it is pretty fresh. Let me know how it comes out.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 12:44 AM
To: matronics
Subject: Elevator movement
Tonight I installed my elevators and control tube. After install, the freedom of movement seemed a bit tight. The elevators do not sag freely. They will stay in any position I put them. Not binding, but just a bit tight. Everything lines up perfectly. Before I installed the center bolt under the VS, they each sagged more freely. They have very smooth movement just the same. Anyone have this experience?
Dave Leikam
40496
| Quote: | | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List |
| Quote: | | http://forums.matronics.com |
[quote] href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com [b]
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DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com
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| Posted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:51 pm Post subject: Elevator movement |
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I unbolted the center bearing at the top of the elevator horns and sure enough, the hole on the top of the right horn is a touch lower than it needs to be. Just enough to cause the horn to flex up less than 1 mm with the bolt in. This is causing the bind. Now what to do?
I followed the plans and put the drill bushing in my DeWalt 12 volt and put a file to it until it fit into the bearing. No problem with that. The bottom holes of the horn came out fine as well using the wood block.
Dave Leikam
40496
---
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 5:57 am Post subject: Elevator movement |
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Dave,
My first question is, if you get the top hole fixed, what does that do to your bottom hole? One option is to get another horn and do it again. The next option is to make the hole bigger, have a plate welded in there to make the new hole. Another option is to have a washer welded in there after making the hole a little bigger to fit. Another option is to have someone weld the hole closed, then redrill the hole (it has to be an expert welder). Another option is the just talk to Van’s and see what they say. Another option is to make a new elevator, but I don’t recommend this or the first one.
There will be a lot of suggestions from others, but these are the ones I could come up with quickly (I have seen this problem before more than once, and we had the hole welded closed and redrilled.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com (jesse(at)saintaviation.com)
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 11:50 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Elevator movement
I unbolted the center bearing at the top of the elevator horns and sure enough, the hole on the top of the right horn is a touch lower than it needs to be. Just enough to cause the horn to flex up less than 1 mm with the bolt in. This is causing the bind. Now what to do?
I followed the plans and put the drill bushing in my DeWalt 12 volt and put a file to it until it fit into the bearing. No problem with that. The bottom holes of the horn came out fine as well using the wood block.
Dave Leikam
40496
---
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jhasbrouck(at)woh.rr.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 8:09 am Post subject: Elevator movement |
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Dave,
If one hole was forward of the other I'd suggest trying to adjust ot out with the hinge bearings but that won't help in your situation. ( I don't think ) . Check with Van's. You may still be within spec and not have to do anything.
John Hasbrouck
#40264
[quote][b]
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 9:36 am Post subject: Elevator movement |
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Dave and Jesse,
Another option not mentioned and this is what i did was to get everything
alinged, trailing edges and counterweight arms to the ends of the HS, use
the hole which has the most meat around it as the keeper and then fabricate
a plate for the other horn which can be riveted with six 4-4 rivets. The
steel plate should be of equal thickness and same type of steel as the
original horn and be long enough to overlap atleast 2 1/2 of the lightening
holes in the elev horn. This plate can also have lightening holes.
So the idea is to only slightly enlarge the bad hole. Lock everything into
alignment, put your plate in with the hole already drilled in it, index
everything and lock it down, then drill your rivet holes for fastening the
plate to the horn. Everything should be indexed and locked DOWN. The gap
between both horn needs to be indexed again with a block of some type of
material, perfectly perpendicular hole in all dimensions. The horn should
not flex when you clamp this block in place.
This will yeild you a perfectly trimmed out trailing edge on both sides and
the counterbalance arms to the HS.
| Quote: | From a safety standpoint, if for some damm reason all six rivets seperated,
then the slightly enlarged hole in the original elevator is still there and
|
will keep th plane flying. DO disaster!!!!
JOhn G.
409 thinking about those diving mask games.
[quote]From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: Elevator movement
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 08:55:00 -0500
Dave,
My first question is, if you get the top hole fixed, what does that do to
your bottom hole? One option is to get another horn and do it again. The
next option is to make the hole bigger, have a plate welded in there to
make
the new hole. Another option is to have a washer welded in there after
making the hole a little bigger to fit. Another option is to have someone
weld the hole closed, then redrill the hole (it has to be an expert
welder).
Another option is the just talk to Van’s and see what they say. Another
option is to make a new elevator, but I don’t recommend this or the first
one.
There will be a lot of suggestions from others, but these are the ones I
could come up with quickly (I have seen this problem before more than once,
and we had the hole welded closed and redrilled.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 11:50 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Elevator movement
I unbolted the center bearing at the top of the elevator horns and sure
enough, the hole on the top of the right horn is a touch lower than it
needs
to be. Just enough to cause the horn to flex up less than 1 mm with the
bolt in. This is causing the bind. Now what to do?
I followed the plans and put the drill bushing in my DeWalt 12 volt and put
a file to it until it fit into the bearing. No problem with that. The
bottom holes of the horn came out fine as well using the wood block.
Dave Leikam
40496
---
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 9:39 am Post subject: Elevator movement |
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By the way, my last post is the reason I went out and finally bought a real
drill press and realized my Shop Smith had too much play in the bit when
drilling. Or call it travel.
JOhn G.
[quote]From: "Jesse Saint" <jesse(at)saintaviation.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: RE: Elevator movement
Date: Sat, 27 Jan 2007 08:55:00 -0500
Dave,
My first question is, if you get the top hole fixed, what does that do to
your bottom hole? One option is to get another horn and do it again. The
next option is to make the hole bigger, have a plate welded in there to
make
the new hole. Another option is to have a washer welded in there after
making the hole a little bigger to fit. Another option is to have someone
weld the hole closed, then redrill the hole (it has to be an expert
welder).
Another option is the just talk to Van’s and see what they say. Another
option is to make a new elevator, but I don’t recommend this or the first
one.
There will be a lot of suggestions from others, but these are the ones I
could come up with quickly (I have seen this problem before more than once,
and we had the hole welded closed and redrilled.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Leikam
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 11:50 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Elevator movement
I unbolted the center bearing at the top of the elevator horns and sure
enough, the hole on the top of the right horn is a touch lower than it
needs
to be. Just enough to cause the horn to flex up less than 1 mm with the
bolt in. This is causing the bind. Now what to do?
I followed the plans and put the drill bushing in my DeWalt 12 volt and put
a file to it until it fit into the bearing. No problem with that. The
bottom holes of the horn came out fine as well using the wood block.
Dave Leikam
40496
---
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DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:07 pm Post subject: Elevator movement |
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Thanks for the ideas guys. I have not had a chance to really study the
misaligned horn hole problem. (that sounded off) I plan to look at the
problem in depth this week and make a decision on what the best and safest
action to take will be. I think I know the cause, too much pressure on the
drill caused the horn to flex up slightly. Let the bit do the work guys and
gals!
I will have to study the affect on the bottom hole as well. I think I can
get things straightened out however because the misalignment is very small.
The hole is a hair lower than it should be. I think less than 1 mm. If I
were to elongate the hole up to meet the bearing hole, the only way for the
horn to shift would be a hair up. Being that the horn is clamped to the
bearing between washers, and the assembly wants to stay in the aligned
position, I wonder if the operation would be safe.
I will probably call Vans for their opinion. I'll post my findings and fix.
Lincoln logs, legos and tinker toys were so easy!
Dave
---
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jan 27, 2007 10:33 pm Post subject: Elevator movement |
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It might not be a bad idea for those drilling the holes to have a helper
move the elevator up and down through it's range of movement (without
hitting the stops) during the drilling to help make sure that you are
getting a hole that stays in the center. This should help keep the hole
from wandering off center a little. Use a good sharp bit, turn it slowly
and don't push too hard are also very good procedures to use IMHO. Is the
"turn fast for aluminum, turn slow for steel" something that I thought I was
told or something that actually is a good format? Either way, it seems to
work well.
Oh, and by the way, Bad Dog Tools should leave out the Dog in their name.
Stay far from their tent at the shows. ASK ME HOW I KNOW!
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
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DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 3:09 pm Post subject: Elevator movement |
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I studied my binding elevators and found the problem. It was two fold,
although I don't think the first part caused binding.
I had posted that the right top elevator horn bearing hole was slightly off.
I simply elongated the hole less than .5 mm and the bolt slides right
through. I don't believe once the washers and bolt are in place and secure
that this will cause any problem.
Second, you must insert several washers between the center bearing and the
elevator horns. The plans stress that you must "fill the gap completely or
the rod end bearings can bind." When I insert washers to take up the space,
on the right side they cause too much pressure and cause the bind. If I
remove one there is a slight gap and after tightening, it binds as well. I
need a washer half the thickness of AN960-416L. Seems odd that such a small
width would cause the binding, but it does. I know this because if I loosen
the bolt through the center bearing, the elevator is smooth as silk. If I
apply side pressure to the elevator, the binding can be felt.
With all hardware installed, everything lines up dead nuts. I just need to
fill that gap without adding lateral pressure. The same gap on the left
side of the bearing accepts two washers with no gap and no excess pressure
and no binding.
So where can I find a washer .016" thick? Or is it .008"? AN960-416LL?
Could I use a stainless one from Ace Hardware if I can find one that will
fit? Or should I just sand one of mine down?
Dave Leikam
40496
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 4:44 pm Post subject: Elevator movement |
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Dave,
Did the bag that the drill bushing came in have several thicknesses of
washers, some stainless, some steel? It should have.
Remember to check your counterbalance arms trueness to the rest of the HS
once everything is tightened down. save our emails if further problems are
encountered. Glad it is working out for you.
John G. 409
Do Not Archive
[quote]From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Elevator movement
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 17:07:52 -0600
I studied my binding elevators and found the problem. It was two fold,
although I don't think the first part caused binding.
I had posted that the right top elevator horn bearing hole was slightly
off.
I simply elongated the hole less than .5 mm and the bolt slides right
through. I don't believe once the washers and bolt are in place and secure
that this will cause any problem.
Second, you must insert several washers between the center bearing and the
elevator horns. The plans stress that you must "fill the gap completely or
the rod end bearings can bind." When I insert washers to take up the
space,
on the right side they cause too much pressure and cause the bind. If I
remove one there is a slight gap and after tightening, it binds as well. I
need a washer half the thickness of AN960-416L. Seems odd that such a
small
width would cause the binding, but it does. I know this because if I
loosen
the bolt through the center bearing, the elevator is smooth as silk. If I
apply side pressure to the elevator, the binding can be felt.
With all hardware installed, everything lines up dead nuts. I just need to
fill that gap without adding lateral pressure. The same gap on the left
side of the bearing accepts two washers with no gap and no excess pressure
and no binding.
So where can I find a washer .016" thick? Or is it .008"? AN960-416LL?
Could I use a stainless one from Ace Hardware if I can find one that will
fit? Or should I just sand one of mine down?
Dave Leikam
40496
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DAVELEIKAM(at)wi.rr.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 5:10 pm Post subject: Elevator movement |
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I only found two thicknesses and as I said, there is no combination I can
make which fits perfectly. I need a washer half the thickness of the
thinnest provided. Otherwise, everything is true and smooth. Can I sand a
washer down to the thickness I need?
Dave Leikam
---
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indigoonlatigo(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 8:11 pm Post subject: Elevator movement |
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You can try but the obvious hard part is getting a hold on it while sanding
and making sure the thickness is the same throughout.
DO NOt Archive
[quote]From: "Dave Leikam" <DAVELEIKAM(at)WI.RR.COM>
Reply-To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
To: <rv10-list(at)matronics.com>
Subject: Re: Elevator movement
Date: Tue, 30 Jan 2007 19:10:45 -0600
I only found two thicknesses and as I said, there is no combination I can
make which fits perfectly. I need a washer half the thickness of the
thinnest provided. Otherwise, everything is true and smooth. Can I sand a
washer down to the thickness I need?
Dave Leikam
---
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