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occom
Joined: 26 Aug 2006
Posts: 404
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 Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 1:22 pm Post subject: Tips for working with Hysol |
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I need 'em. In my first experience with this stuff I've found it to be an evil unmanageable blob. I was attempting to repair my droop-style wingtip which was two pieces when I recieved it, figuring that was a good place to make friends with Hysol before gluing in the rear spar. I scooped out two equal sized dollops of black and white and mixed it on a sheet of stiff plastic. Ambient temp around 60 deg. I then made a 1" wide band around the bond line of the tip. and it's currently held with Cleco clamps and small woodworking clamp developing what I hope will be a lasting relationship.
It is only thanks to about 10 pairs of Nitril gloves that I am not covered in this stuff and I am in doubts as to my ability to make those nice neat coves around the spar/rib joints when I attempt that. I need tips on how this is done, I'm sure there is something obvious that I'm missing.
While I expect this might be of use to others, anyone wishing to spare the list can respond to occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca (occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca) Thanks
Do not archive
[quote][b]
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dan(at)azshowersolutions.
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| Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 5:11 pm Post subject: Tips for working with Hysol |
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Dave,
My first date with Hysol was a bit unsetteling as well. After playing with sticks and trying to spread the stuff neatly (never happened)...I tried using sandwich size zip-lock baggies and snipping the corner. It's almost like welding now as I squeeze the line of Hysol where I want it. This turned the Hysol experience around for me and I can place the stuff in tight spaces.
Dan, Mesa AZ
"Dave G." <occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca> wrote:
[quote] I need 'em. In my first experience with this stuff I've found it to be an evil unmanageable blob. I was attempting to repair my droop-style wingtip which was two pieces when I recieved it, figuring that was a good place to make friends with Hysol before gluing in the rear spar. I scooped out two equal sized dollops of black and white and mixed it on a sheet of stiff plastic. Ambient temp around 60 deg. I then made a 1" wide band around the bond line of the tip. and it's currently held with Cleco clamps and small woodworking clamp developing what I hope will be a lasting relationship.
It is only thanks to about 10 pairs of Nitril gloves that I am not covered in this stuff and I am in doubts as to my ability to make those nice neat coves around the spar/rib joints when I attempt that. I need tips on how this is done, I'm sure there is something obvious that I'm missing.
While I expect this might be of use to others, anyone wishing to spare the list can respond to occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca (occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca) Thanks
[quote][b]
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Tom Jones
Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 752
Location: Ellensburg, WA
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| Posted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:52 pm Post subject: Re: Tips for working with Hysol |
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That baggy tip is maybe the best tip you'll get. Also, dip your gloved fingers in some denatured alcohol before you touch it. You can push it around and shape it just like factory with no sticking to the gloves. A little flox mixed in helps it hold its shape. It doesn't take as much flox as the old 3M stuff does.
I used 3m when I built my plane. Then I had to build a new wing and Skystar was supplying Hysol by that time. The Hysol is much easier.
Tom Jones
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colind
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 32
Location: Sydney, Australia
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| Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 4:15 am Post subject: Re: Tips for working with Hysol |
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Hi guys,
I am working with a kit which was first shipped in '94, and had the 3M glue (partly used by the original builder). I tried working with it and found it a real pain. I did a bit of reserach and found that Bostik "Titan Bond" Plus has virtually identical properties (so close that it doesn't matter - same shear strength, same tensile strength, better modulus of elasticity, same temp range, etc, etc).
Three great plusses though: a) it is hydrophobic (bonds in very high humidity - even underwater); b) it is supplied in a twin syringe dispenser which makes dispensing the right proportions a breeeze, and; c) it is significantly more forgiving of errors in mix proportions without affecting the final properties of the bond. It also has a neat feature where it changes colour depending on the progress of curing (it starts out a light cream colour, changes to pale blue just after set (30 - 60 mins) then gradually changes back to cream over the 24hr aging cycle, then progresses to a deeper cream colour over the next few days.
Titan Bond is available in most general hardware stores here for around $15.00AUD (~$11.00USD) for a 50ml syringe pack. You should be able to get it in the US, I would presume in general hardware stores.
Its about the same viscosity as the 3M compound, but adding flox to it helps it hold a fairly high bead as with 3m and Hysol.
Hope this is assistance.
Regards
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Colin Durey
Sydney
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Brett Walmsley
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 47
Location: Savannah, GA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 7:56 am Post subject: Re: Tips for working with Hysol |
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Couple of thoughts.
I did not use gloves. Clean up is easy with alcohol.
Use flox or micro balloons as a media to thicken to help with drooping.
After it starts to set you can also dip your finger in alcohol to clean up messes. Just keep working with it, you'll get the hang of it
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Brett
Model IV 1200/912UL |
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Lynn Matteson
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 2778
Location: Grass Lake, Michigan
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| Posted: Tue Jan 30, 2007 4:30 pm Post subject: Tips for working with Hysol |
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I mix Hysol by weight, and on a glass or clear plastic lid. With
mixing taking place on this transparent surface, the exact mixing can
be done because you can see for certain that it is thoroughly mixed
by turning the glass over and observing the black and white streaks
from underneath, then mixing until uniformly grey. Try it...you'll be
surprised how much black and white is still visible when you think
you've got it mixed enough.
Lynn
On Jan 28, 2007, at 9:52 PM, Tom Jones wrote:
| Quote: |
That baggy tip is maybe the best tip you'll get. Also, dip your
gloved fingers in some denatured alcohol before you touch it. You
can push it around and shape it just like factory with no sticking
to the gloves. A little flox mixed in helps it hold its shape. It
doesn't take as much flox as the old 3M stuff does.
I used 3m when I built my plane. Then I had to build a new wing
and Skystar was supplying Hysol by that time. The Hysol is much
easier.
Tom Jones
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91193#91193
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Lynn
Kitfox IV-Jabiru 2200
N369LM |
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