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Corrosion Proofing

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ptiller(at)lolacars.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 12:32 pm Post subject: Corrosion Proofing

Hi,



I'm starting to work through all the metal parts and am thinking about corrosion proofing.  I've been advised to use Zinc Chromate on aluminium parts and Zinc Oxide on steel parts which makes sense.  Hard anodising has been suggested to me and a search on this list reveals all sorts of other options.  The Zinc Chromate option sounds great but I realise that I may be dead from it before I get the plane built!  



So, a lot of people on this list have aircraft that have now been flying for a while.  Can you tell me from experience what has worked and also what you consider to be best for the plane and indeed the person applying it!



Thanks,



Phil

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topglock(at)cox.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 2:29 pm Post subject: Corrosion Proofing

Phil,



All my metal parts, at least those not treated at the factory, are 

coated with zinc chromate.  I've been in the air for almost two years, 

with over 250 hours on the aircraft.  No corrosion to report and I 

survived the process in good shape...



Jeff - Baby Blue



flyingphil2 wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Hi,



 I'm starting to work through all the metal parts and am thinking about corrosion proofing.  I've been advised to use Zinc Chromate on aluminium parts and Zinc Oxide on steel parts which makes sense.  Hard anodising has been suggested to me and a search on this list reveals all sorts of other options.  The Zinc Chromate option sounds great but I realise that I may be dead from it before I get the plane built!  



 So, a lot of people on this list have aircraft that have now been flying for a while.  Can you tell me from experience what has worked and also what you consider to be best for the plane and indeed the person applying it!



 Thanks,



 Phil

 Visit -  www.EuropaOwners.org

- The Matronics Europa-List Email Forum -

Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.n
Guest

Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 2:31 pm Post subject: Corrosion Proofing

Hello Phil



Straight from the mfg. Zinc Chromate needs a top coat to be most

effective. I know plenty of folk use it, it is however porous. Self etch

zinc chromate uses up half of its magic to neutralize acid.



Chemicals with acid and plating work OK but a pain to do.



My favorite corrosion protect ant is PPG DPLF! It is a 2 part epoxy

primer, it does not let in moisture. If you scuff surface it sticks better

than any paint I have tried. Works on aluminium, steel and fiberglass.

Downright amazing. It does not have UV inhibitors though.



When I do Mod 72, I will paint both ID and OD with DPLF,and assemble wet.



When I made precision pins for tailplane torque tube, I used wet paint as

an assembly lube, and coated the ID of the TT as well.



Painting bare fiberglass, DPLF thin and let it full cure before applying

top coat or K-36 high build primer. Adhesion is great. 



One word of advise, if you are going over self etch primer with DPLF you

need to wait till it is full dry. Whatever the mfg says, I find it takes a

lot longer. If you put DPLF over slight not dried self etch, or slight not

dried solvent, it will not allow the solvents to permiate. It will not

adhere as well as it has ability to do. If you take a razor blade or sharp

scraper and can peel off the DPLF, smell sample, if you detect solvent,

you didn't wait long enough. 



I poured hot linseed oil inside aluminium and steel tubes and poured out

after coating and sealed things up.



Ron P.

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grahamsingleton(at)btinte
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 4:41 am Post subject: Corrosion Proofing

Ron & all

DPLF or os ot DP40 in UK? is good stuff, however one other thing to 

remember is that you must NOT sand it. It will become permeable if you 

do. AS I understand it it's designed to be a very thin impermeable 

membrane, so don't flat it off after it dries.

Graham



rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 

 Hello Phil

 

 > 

 My favorite corrosion protect ant is PPG DPLF! It is a 2 part epoxy

 primer, it does not let in moisture. If you scuff surface it sticks better

 than any paint I have tried. Works on aluminium, steel and fiberglass.

 Downright amazing. It does not have UV inhibitors though.

 

 

 Ron P.

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william(at)wrmills.plus.c
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 6:37 am Post subject: Corrosion Proofing

Graham,

What is your view on the Mod 72 method of protection?  The spec calls for 

painting all surfaces with etch primer, allowing it to dry and then applying 

the ACF 50 before assembly.  If the insert is a tight fit, presumably it 

will skin the etch primer back to the metal as it enters the frame tube.  I 

like Ron's idea of assembling the inserts with the paint on both surfaces 

still wet.  What is your opinion?

Regards,

William

---

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asarangan(at)YAHOO.COM
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 7:17 am Post subject: Corrosion Proofing

You can also try alodine, which is a two step chemical dip process. For

aluminum tubes it will work better than zinc chromate because it will

coat the inside surfaces too. I used alodine and then gave it a coat of

zinc chromate on top. I could not get zinc chromate from any of the

local auto paint shops or marine shops. Shipping cost is pretty

expensive if you buy from catalog stores because it is considered

hazmat. I picked up a few cans from the local Grainger outlet for

pretty cheap. It was something like $5 per can. A safer a alternative

is zinc oxide paint.

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grahamsingleton(at)btinte
Guest

Posted: Thu Feb 08, 2007 11:19 am Post subject: Corrosion Proofing

Ron's plan sounds good to me, I don't have much faith in etch primer 

over zinc plated steel. Could be wrong though, it might bond. Will it 

etch zinc?

Graham



William Mills wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   

 <william(at)wrmills.plus.com>

 

 Graham,

 What is your view on the Mod 72 method of protection?  The spec calls 

 for painting all surfaces with etch primer, allowing it to dry and then 

 applying the ACF 50 before assembly.  If the insert is a tight fit, 

 presumably it will skin the etch primer back to the metal as it enters 

 the frame tube.  I like Ron's idea of assembling the inserts with the 

 paint on both surfaces still wet.  What is your opinion?

 Regards,

 William5

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Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:

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