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mike(at)learningplanet.co Guest
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Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 10:30 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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I am in the process of sealing the tanks and I have a question about
the rubber seal on the fuel level senders. Are these just installed
dry, are they lubed with fuellube, or are they sealed with ProSeal?
Thanks,
Mike Schipper
#40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 11:04 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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Remove the rubber seal and replace with proseal at final
installation. Dip each screw into the proseal and then insert and
tighten screw and be generous with the proseal.
No seal or gaskets of any kind is needed.
do not archive.
On Feb 13, 2007, at 1:29 PM, Michael Schipper wrote:
Quote: |
<mike(at)learningplanet.com>
I am in the process of sealing the tanks and I have a question
about the rubber seal on the fuel level senders. Are these just
installed dry, are they lubed with fuellube, or are they sealed
with ProSeal?
Thanks,
Mike Schipper
#40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com
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sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.c Guest
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Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 11:09 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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I put proseal on mine when I installed it.
Scott Schmidt
sschmidt(at)ussynthetic.com
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owl40188(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 11:43 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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The advice I received at that stage was to use the rubber gasket and also apply ProSeal. The fuel tank design is similar to what Piper has and I know of an A&P who only used the gasket with no ProSeal in his Piper and has no leaks. I used both, however, if I had to do it over I would only use the rubber gasket, as this avoids having to clean up the proseal if you ever have to replace the sending unit.
Niko
40188
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jesse(at)saintaviation.co Guest
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Posted: Tue Feb 13, 2007 8:53 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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We generally use the rubber seal and then proseal around a little after it
is installed. The main reason is to make it easier to remove and fix,
replace, tweak or whatever. I'm not saying it will never leak this way, but
it is in a place that would be easy to detect a leak and would be easy to
fix if there were a leak. Either way works, though. I don't know that they
will ever have to be replaced or fixed or tweaked, but there is a chance.
Anything that can come apart eventually will come apart for service, IMHO.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse(at)saintaviation.com
www.saintaviation.com
Cell: 352-427-0285
Fax: 815-377-3694
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mike(at)learningplanet.co Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 5:12 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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Thanks everyone for the help. I guess the rubber gasket and ProSeal is redundant, so I will probably just go ahead and ProSeal those suckers in without the rubber seal.
Mike Schipper
#40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com
do not archive
On Feb 13, 2007, at 1:42 PM, Niko wrote:
[quote]The advice I received at that stage was to use the rubber gasket and also apply ProSeal. The fuel tank design is similar to what Piper has and I know of an A&P who only used the gasket with no ProSeal in his Piper and has no leaks. I used both, however, if I had to do it over I would only use the rubber gasket, as this avoids having to clean up the proseal if you ever have to replace the sending unit.[b]
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apilot2(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Wed Feb 14, 2007 7:16 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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Given that I have had the "pleasure" of removing and repairing Proseal
in my Mooney tanks, I'd suggest you consider just the opposite. Use
the rubber gasket. Fuel sending units do fail and do need replacement,
and you will regret having them bonded in with Proseal when you have
to remove them. I suppose one alternative would be to use the
non-hardening version of Proseal that Mooney specifies for the
inspection covers of the fuel tanks if you have concerns about the
gasket. Gaskets are easy to replace. Proseal is a PITA to remove and
replace. JMHO having done repair work with the stuff.
On 2/14/07, Michael Schipper <mike(at)learningplanet.com> wrote:
Quote: | Thanks everyone for the help. I guess the rubber gasket and ProSeal is
redundant, so I will probably just go ahead and ProSeal those suckers in
without the rubber seal.
Mike Schipper
#40576 - Wings - www.rvten.com
do not archive
On Feb 13, 2007, at 1:42 PM, Niko wrote:
The advice I received at that stage was to use the rubber gasket and also
apply ProSeal. The fuel tank design is similar to what Piper has and I know
of an A&P who only used the gasket with no ProSeal in his Piper and has no
leaks. I used both, however, if I had to do it over I would only use the
rubber gasket, as this avoids having to clean up the proseal if you ever
have to replace the sending unit.
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d_emond(at)mweb.co.za Guest
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Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 11:46 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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I would advise regular checks of the gaskets, should you choose to go the route of gaskets only. I would hate anyone to suffer the problems I experienced. The gaskets appeared to react with the fuel and swelled.
I originally decided against proseal, and went with gaskets only. After developing fuel leaks on both tanks, I have subsequently removed the gaskets and have used proseal on both sender units. Proseal does provide a more permanent fix, with less chance of a fuel leak.
Dave Emond
40159
Flying
[quote][b]
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Vern(at)teclabsinc.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 1:52 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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When I built my tanks I called Van’s and talked with them about the pros and cons of the different way of sealing the senders. It was suggested to use proseal only. I asked about the concern of having to replace a sender unit and was told it’s not a problem just use a putty knife and clean to residue off. Then install the new sender unit and reseal it.
Pulling a tank to replace a sender unit sound like a lot of work, but to remove a tank because a gasket leaked would be down right frustrating.
Vern Smith (#324)
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave & Brenda Emond
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 11:46 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Question
I would advise regular checks of the gaskets, should you choose to go the route of gaskets only. I would hate anyone to suffer the problems I experienced. The gaskets appeared to react with the fuel and swelled.
I originally decided against proseal, and went with gaskets only. After developing fuel leaks on both tanks, I have subsequently removed the gaskets and have used proseal on both sender units. Proseal does provide a more permanent fix, with less chance of a fuel leak.
Dave Emond
40159
Flying
Quote: | http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List | 01234
[quote][b]
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AV8ORJWC
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 1149 Location: Aurora, Oregon "Home of VANS"
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Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 7:38 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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Correction from the field. Do not use a metallic putty knife to clean proseal. A stress riser is introduced which begins cracking of the skin material.
It is an automatic termination offence at work if you are caught with any metallic screwdriver, razor knife or putty knife with Proseal. We use a beveled fiberglas reinforced plastic hand scrapper. Wear a glove so you don’t ramp the other end into the palm of your hand.
Proseal is used like Greek Windex… everywhere for just about everything.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vern W. Smith
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 1:52 PM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Fuel Tank Question
When I built my tanks I called Van’s and talked with them about the pros and cons of the different way of sealing the senders. It was suggested to use proseal only. I asked about the concern of having to replace a sender unit and was told it’s not a problem just use a putty knife and clean to residue off. Then install the new sender unit and reseal it.
Pulling a tank to replace a sender unit sound like a lot of work, but to remove a tank because a gasket leaked would be down right frustrating.
Vern Smith (#324)
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave & Brenda Emond
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 11:46 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Question
I would advise regular checks of the gaskets, should you choose to go the route of gaskets only. I would hate anyone to suffer the problems I experienced. The gaskets appeared to react with the fuel and swelled.
I originally decided against proseal, and went with gaskets only. After developing fuel leaks on both tanks, I have subsequently removed the gaskets and have used proseal on both sender units. Proseal does provide a more permanent fix, with less chance of a fuel leak.
Dave Emond
40159
Flying
[/b]http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com[/b][quote][b] [b]
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apilot2(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2007 7:57 pm Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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Agreed. A cheap and readily available substitute is to cut a scrap
piece of plexi to the desired width, wrap one end with ball of duct
tape, and grind the other end to a nice sharp point. Gets dull, grind
a little more.
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 4:08 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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You could also use a serrated putty knife.
do not archive.
On Feb 15, 2007, at 10:38 PM, John W. Cox wrote:
[quote]
Correction from the field. Do not use a metallic putty knife to clean proseal. A stress riser is introduced which begins cracking of the skin material.
It is an automatic termination offence at work if you are caught with any metallic screwdriver, razor knife or putty knife with Proseal. We use a beveled fiberglas reinforced plastic hand scrapper. Wear a glove so you don’t ramp the other end into the palm of your hand.
Proseal is used like Greek Windex… everywhere for just about everything.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Vern W. SmithSent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 1:52 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: RE: Fuel Tank Question
When I built my tanks I called Van’s and talked with them about the pros and cons of the different way of sealing the senders. It was suggested to use proseal only. I asked about the concern of having to replace a sender unit and was told it’s not a problem just use a putty knife and clean to residue off. Then install the new sender unit and reseal it.
Pulling a tank to replace a sender unit sound like a lot of work, but to remove a tank because a gasket leaked would be down right frustrating.
Vern Smith (#324)
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf OfDave & Brenda EmondSent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 11:46 AMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Question
I would advise regular checks of the gaskets, should you choose to go the route of gaskets only. I would hate anyone to suffer the problems I experienced. The gaskets appeared to react with the fuel and swelled.
I originally decided against proseal, and went with gaskets only. After developing fuel leaks on both tanks, I have subsequently removed the gaskets and have used proseal on both sender units. Proseal does provide a more permanent fix, with less chance of a fuel leak.
Dave Emond
40159
Flying
[/b]http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
0[/b][b]
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tadsargent(at)bellsouth.n Guest
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Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 4:19 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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What is the source of this, I would like to hear more about how this could happen.
Thanks
Tad
[quote] ---
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flysrv10(at)gmail.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 4:20 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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I meant to say that you could also use a serrated plastic party knife.
do not archive.
On Feb 16, 2007, at 7:05 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
[quote]You could also use a serrated putty knife.
do not archive.
On Feb 15, 2007, at 10:38 PM, John W. Cox wrote:
Quote: |
Correction from the field. Do not use a metallic putty knife to clean proseal. A stress riser is introduced which begins cracking of the skin material.
It is an automatic termination offence at work if you are caught with any metallic screwdriver, razor knife or putty knife with Proseal. We use a beveled fiberglas reinforced plastic hand scrapper. Wear a glove so you don’t ramp the other end into the palm of your hand.
Proseal is used like Greek Windex… everywhere for just about everything.
John Cox
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Vern W. SmithSent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 1:52 PMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: RE: Fuel Tank Question
When I built my tanks I called Van’s and talked with them about the pros and cons of the different way of sealing the senders. It was suggested to use proseal only. I asked about the concern of having to replace a sender unit and was told it’s not a problem just use a putty knife and clean to residue off. Then install the new sender unit and reseal it.
Pulling a tank to replace a sender unit sound like a lot of work, but to remove a tank because a gasket leaked would be down right frustrating.
Vern Smith (#324)
Do not archive
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf OfDave & Brenda EmondSent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 11:46 AMTo: rv10-list(at)matronics.com (rv10-list(at)matronics.com)Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Question
I would advise regular checks of the gaskets, should you choose to go the route of gaskets only. I would hate anyone to suffer the problems I experienced. The gaskets appeared to react with the fuel and swelled.
I originally decided against proseal, and went with gaskets only. After developing fuel leaks on both tanks, I have subsequently removed the gaskets and have used proseal on both sender units. Proseal does provide a more permanent fix, with less chance of a fuel leak.
Dave Emond
40159
Flying
[/b]http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
0[/b] | 1[b]
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owl40188(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 7:34 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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It's nothing particular to proseal. Using sharp metal tools results in scratches which are stress risers thus this results in more work, At a minimum the scratches have to be removed, if they are deep a repair might have to be incorporated.
Niko
40188
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Vern(at)teclabsinc.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Feb 16, 2007 8:04 am Post subject: Fuel Tank Question |
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Two problems come to mind first if the aluminum sheet is scratched it sets up an area where stresses are concentrated and can (will?) result in a crack. This is why scratches must be blended into the surrounding area. You can read more about this in the book “Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices: Aircraft Inspection and Repair, Aircraft Alterations Ac 43.13.”
Second if the tool is a dissimilar metal it can leave tiny partials behind and setup small galvanic cells that promote corrosion. This is why one should never use steel wool on aluminum.
Sorry about any miss leading advice. I should have though through what I was told before passing it on.
I think I will now go remove my foot from my mouth:)
Vern Smith
From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of tadsargent
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2007 4:18 AM
To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Question
What is the source of this, I would like to hear more about how this could happen.
Thanks
Tad
[quote]
On Feb 15, 2007, at 10:38 PM, John W. Cox wrote:
Correction from the field. Do not use a metallic putty knife to clean proseal. A stress riser is introduced which begins cracking of the skin material.
It is an automatic termination offence at work if you are caught with any metallic screwdriver, razor knife or putty knife with Proseal. We use a beveled fiberglas reinforced plastic hand scrapper. Wear a glove so you don’t ramp the other end into the palm of your hand.
Proseal is used like Greek Windex… everywhere for just about everything.
John Cox
When I built my tanks I called Van’s and talked with them about the pros and cons of the different way of sealing the senders. It was suggested to use proseal only. I asked about the concern of having to replace a sender unit and was told it’s not a problem just use a putty knife and clean to residue off. Then install the new sender unit and reseal it.
Pulling a tank to replace a sender unit sound like a lot of work, but to remove a tank because a gasket leaked would be down right frustrating.
Vern Smith (#324)
Do not archive
[b]
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