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jrdial(at)hal-pc.org
Guest

Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 9:08 am Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

       I have a new RV-10 trim kit from Aerosports Products in the box unopened I will sell for $195.oo, I will pay freight in USA. I built and fly an RV6 and won this in a drawing at an RV Fly-In. 

                Contact: jrdial(at)hal-pc.org (jrdial(at)hal-pc.org)

 

  [quote][b]

rleffler

Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680

Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2012 1:10 pm Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

Geoff’s rudder trim can be adapted to other model RV’s.   Call Geoff for details.

 

bob

 

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. R. (Dick) Dial

Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 12:08 PM

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: rudder trim RV-10

 

 

                I have a new RV-10 trim kit from Aerosports Products in the box unopened I will sell for $195.oo, I will pay freight in USA. I built and fly an RV6 and won this in a drawing at an RV Fly-In. 

                Contact: jrdial(at)hal-pc.org (jrdial(at)hal-pc.org)

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_________________
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Phase I
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler

trigo(at)mail.telepac.pt
Guest

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 11:04 am Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

JR

I am probably interested but I am away from home and I will have to confirm at my shop.

I will contact you direct on Tuesday 

Carlos 



Enviado do meu iPhone



No dia 11/11/2012, Ã s 17:08, "J. R. (Dick) Dial" <jrdial(at)hal-pc.org (jrdial(at)hal-pc.org)> escreveu:

[quote]  <![endif]-->   <![endif]-->

 

                I have a new RV-10 trim kit from Aerosports Products in the box unopened I will sell for $195.oo, I will pay freight in USA. I built and fly an RV6 and won this in a drawing at an RV Fly-In. 

                Contact: jrdial(at)hal-pc.org (jrdial(at)hal-pc.org)

 

   	  Quote: 	
		  



===================================

ctric.com

 	  Quote: 	
		  www.buildersbooks.com

uilthelp.com
	


matronics.com/contribution

===================================

://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List

===================================

cs.com

===================================



	


[b]

jrdial(at)hal-pc.org
Guest

Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2012 2:46 pm Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

It has been sold.

Thanks,

Dick

 

From: owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo

Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 11:53 AM

To: rv10-list(at)matronics.com

Subject: Re: rudder trim RV-10

 

JR



 



I am probably interested but I am away from home and I will have to confirm at my shop.



I will contact you direct on Tuesday 



 



Carlos 



Enviado do meu iPhone

No dia 11/11/2012, Ã s 17:08, "J. R. (Dick) Dial" <jrdial(at)hal-pc.org (jrdial(at)hal-pc.org)> escreveu:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

 

                I have a new RV-10 trim kit from Aerosports Products in the box unopened I will sell for $195.oo, I will pay freight in USA. I built and fly an RV6 and won this in a drawing at an RV Fly-In. 

                Contact: jrdial(at)hal-pc.org (jrdial(at)hal-pc.org)

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bob88

Joined: 24 Feb 2013
Posts: 99

Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 7:21 pm Post subject: Re: rudder trim RV-10

Anyone have experience with the electric rudder trim kit that is available for the RV10? Is rudder trim important in the 10?

Jim Berry

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver

Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 7:29 pm Post subject: Re: rudder trim RV-10

I have rudder trim in my -10, and like it. That said, I consider it a nice to have feature, not something essential.

rene(at)felker.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 8:34 pm Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

Same here.................



Rene'

N423CF

801-721-6080



--

rv10flyer(at)live.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 8:45 pm Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

I have a tab on the rudder, ball is pretty much centered in cruise most of 

the time. You will need something more than nothing.

Pascal



--

flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 4:52 am Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

I've seen rudder trim tabs hacked out of the rudder, riveted bendable 

tabs, big wedges, small wedges ...... but nobody could tell me 'how much 

tab do you need?'.  So I decided to use small RC servos to implement my 

aileron and rudder trim which will drive a hinge segment, controllable 

from the stick.  I'll probably leave the installation of the hinges 

'till after phase 1.

Linn

On 12/6/2013 11:44 PM, Pascal wrote:

[quote] 



 I have a tab on the rudder, ball is pretty much centered in cruise 

 most of the time. You will need something more than nothing.

 Pascal



 --

Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 7:14 am Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

No experience here but after 350 hours of flying without rudder trim, 

I've decided not to install the trim system because it's not worth the 

effort.



I've found that on one hand, I like flying with my feet on the pedals.  

It may be a holdover from the Maule.  It takes very little pressure to 

adjust for climb, cruise and descent.  Flying with the AP engaged, the 

pedals help keep me engaged.



On the other hand, there is enough friction in the system (and so little 

pressure is required)  that I can set the right pedal where I need it 

and it will stay there in most conditions.  I know that people have 

simply added some friction or even a temporary stop to the cable to help 

accomplish the same thing.  That didn't sound right to me before I flew 

but makes sense now.  Adding a bit of friction to increase the breakout 

force would have little or no effect on the operating friction and would 

be sufficient for 'setting the trim' in this particular plane.



I do recommend aileron trim and something to slow down the pitch trim 

and/or limit its effects (I use Safety Trim).



Bill



On 12/6/2013 10:21 PM, bob88 wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 Anyone have experience with the electric rudder trim kit that is available for the RV10? Is rudder trim important in the 10?





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415035#415035

Jim Berry

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 237
Location: Denver

Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:20 am Post subject: Re: rudder trim RV-10

[quote="flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com"]nobody could tell me 'how much 

tab do you need?'.  So I decided to use small RC servos to implement my 

aileron and rudder trim which will drive a hinge segment, controllable 

from the stick.  I'll probably leave the installation of the hinges 

'till after phase 1.

Linn

I use a 12" hinge segment as you describe, and it is more than enough. Very small deflections will maintain trim. I think 6" would do the job; maybe even less.

flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 5:03 pm Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

Thanks Jim.  I was going to start out with 12" and trim as necessary.  I 

can adjust the speed of the servo easily so I hope to end up with 

smallest added drag and good trim function.

Linn



On 12/7/2013 1:20 PM, Jim Berry wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 [quote="flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com"]nobody could tell me 'how much

 tab do you need?'.  So I decided to use small RC servos to implement my

 aileron and rudder trim which will drive a hinge segment, controllable

 from the stick.  I'll probably leave the installation of the hinges

 'till after phase 1.

 Linn

 I use a 12" hinge segment as you describe, and it is more than enough. Very small deflections will maintain trim. I think 6" would do the job; maybe even less.





 Read this topic online here:



 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415069#415069





 -----

 No virus found in this message.

 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

johngoodman

Joined: 18 Sep 2006
Posts: 530
Location: GA

Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 7:56 am Post subject: Re: rudder trim RV-10

I used a spring-based rudder trim system. I got it in 2008 from M.L.Skunkworks for $75. I think he is out of business, but there is a company called Aerosport that sells the same thing for $250  



Regardless, it works great and I rarely have to change it. I don't think the RV-10 needs much rudder trim, unless you have crooked pants....



John

_________________
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011

carl.froehlich(at)verizon
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:23 am Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

Yep - I looked at this and decided that while it is simple and effective, it

is way overpriced.  The M.L. Skunkworks version is still listed for $115 -

much more reasonable. http://www.mlblueskunk.com/Rudder_Trim_System.html

 

After all the rigging tweaks during Phase One I have not found a need for

rudder trim in cruise.



Carl

--

rv10flyer(at)live.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:30 am Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

I mentioned the tab, that fellow Don McDonald helped me create and it was 

not a big deal. You grab a piece of aluminum, 4" X 2" and you bend it 

slightly. Fly and see what happens at cruise. adjust as needed and repeat 

flight until ball is centered. If I add up the cost of gas I guess it was 

about $75, except I was flying anyway so it was practically free. My ball is 

centered than not and I rarely need to adjust it in cruise, John is right 

on, once you get the rudder tab tuned in there is very little trim 

adjustments needed.

I know Tim Olson went the route of the trim tab to electronic trim, I would 

encourage all you debating this to check out his extensive review and steps 

to do oneself.

Pascal



--

aerosport1

Joined: 07 Nov 2007
Posts: 231

Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 8:31 am Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

John



Aerosport Products rudder trim is a much more refined unit then the

skunkworks. 

You get what you pay for with our rudder trim. It might not be for everyone.

If you saw

What goes into making this a quality unit and you may or may not understand.

Geoff

Geoff Combs 

Aerosport Products

8090 howe industrial pkwy

canal winchester, ohio 43110

614.834.8659p

www.aerosportproducts.com



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_________________
Geoff Combs
RV-10 QB N829GW
Flying 500 hrs
40033

sean(at)braunandco.com
Guest

Posted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 11:14 am Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

I love my rudder trim form Aerosport.  It works perfect and doesn't add 

weight to the rudder assembly.  As a great by-product it holds the rudder 

from being slammed around in winds.  Of course you need to put in a gust 

lock in strong gusts.



--

Tim Olson

Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2878

Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:13 am Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

It's always funny to watch this thread pop up, it's almost like someone has

it on their calendar to re-start the debate every 4 or 6 months.



Basically, my thoughts on Rudder trim are these:



First and foremost, rudder trim is not something that is a one-size-fits-all

thing.  It is not a NEEDED thing, and it isn't a big safety thing.  

There isn't

any reason people HAVE to have rudder trim.  I flew something like

285 hours before I had any rudder trim, flying with a wooden block painted

to match and attached and in general it was nearly sufficient.

Nearly.



Everyone flies a different mission, and I fly very little short-hop local

flights.  I probably spend over 90% of my flying on longer legs.

Some of them loaded to gross wt.  Some light.  Some in between.

Airspeeds vary between 150kts and 170kts.  It all depends.

In that environment, those first 285 hours had the annoyance of

always requiring a foot on a pedal putting just the right pressure

on to keep in trim.  What happens if you are not in trim?  Well, it's

worse than just having a constant crab angle....the view out the

window is tilted.  To have a nice level horizon, you need to be in trim.

I find it annoying to not be level....because it just isn't right, and

shouldn't be that way.  For a short hop you wouldn't even notice

it.  But, if you are an X/C flier, it is a pain.



A rudder block, or fixed tab (bendable), would suffice if you almost always

fly the same speeds and weights.  It is simple, easy, and as Pascal

did, the bendable tab is about as simple and easy and quick to do as you

can get.   For a static tab I think I prefer the wedge block, for 

aesthetics,

but once you have it set right, it will fix probably much of your trim

issues.  Some of my trips pre-trim were ok.  Many of them were not.

It all depended on if I flew LOP, ROP, heavy, or light.  It's not wrong to

go that way.  For many people, you'll be satisfied.



Then there's the spring-bias trim.  Now that there are good choices

out there, I think this is a plenty reasonable alternative for many.

As Sean mentioned, it does give some spring to the rudder to prevent

minor movement in light breeze.  It does not at all mean you don't

need a gust lock.  It's fairly simple to install, and should do the job

pretty well.   Personally, I would recommend that if you go with spring

bias trim, you also do a fixed wedge to correct most of it.  That way

the spring bias is nearly 100% neutralized most of the time, and

you only use it slightly.  There's nothing at all wrong with the

spring bias trim, and I think many people will love it.  It's the minimum

that I personally would be happy with....and it can be added post-build,

so that's nice too.



Then there's the adjustable tab trim.  This is what I have.

It's something that I *personally* would absolutely do again,

and my preference hasn't changed...I'd do it the same way. In fact, I'll be

rebuilding my rudder someday and I plan to incorporate it almost identically

into the new build.  I had debated adding a cutout tab, but I don't know 

if it's

worth the work and the increased thinking about how to structurally 

reinforce

things.  The hinge tab on the trailing edge is simple, works well, and 

is fairly

minimal impact.  I don't remember exactly (I think it's in my write-up) 

how long

it took, but I'm sure it wasn't more than one weekend, with the bulk of it

being one evening.  So time invested was minimal.  To me, aerodynamic

trim like this is about as good as you can get for trimming. You're actually

trimming your flying surface of the rudder to be in trim, just like you do

with the elevator.  It means that there is no tension on either rudder

cable in flight, which isn't necessarily a benefit...it just means that the

rudder has no need for any actuation to keep it perfect.  I actually

think a little spring return on the pedals may be a good thing, but again,

there are ways that it will also be less convenient.  Van's has a very

simple system, and any change to it adds some degree of

negative side, even if there is a benefit added.  The world isn't

100% black or 100% white....anything you do will involve a little

grey.  The biggest downside to the electric trim is that you will be BETTER

off doing it pre-paint.  I did mine post-paint and while it turned out good,

it would have been better pre-paint.   The biggest upside is

the absolute perfect adjustment to trim with no effect on the pedals

or feel whatsoever.   Do I use it, yes....I just did a round trip to Florida

and I used it on that trip both ways.  I had a sloped horizon at one point

that was ticking me off, so I trimmed it out.  It worked well. But, it's not

necessarily "better" than any other method.  All of them can work.



I do think that for most x/c fliers, at least those who are really in tune

to their airplane, will enjoy at least some form of adjustable trim.

I also think that for those who don't have adjustable trim, their opinions

may actually change as they fly more and more long x/c legs.  The fact

is, trim is not a static thing unless all flight characteristics are

also static....it's just the individual's toleration for imperfection as it

gets more out of trim.



It's just funny to see the thread come back again and again.

You can ask if rudder trim is needed, and either answer, Yes or No,

is correct.  And which system is best?  Well, that is all up to

the builder too. You're going to find satisfied people with ANY method.

So I'd encourage the builder to actually sit and think about it on their

own.  Spend some time pondering it.  Then just pick one and go.



Aileron trim....that I think is needed. Yes, there are those who don't 

agree,

but the -10 tanks are so long, and it doesn't take too much imbalance to

develop that rolling tendency.   You can minimize it with good fuel

management, but if this one were put to a vote, my guess is you'd

have maybe 5-10% of the people who fly lots of X/C time who

would vote no.



Rudder trim, if electric, would be ok either at full speed or reduced.

If you have safety trim, which is probably ideal from a simplicity

standpoint in wiring, I'd just do speed reduction so you can be

very precise. Otherwise, full-speed will work.



Aileron trim you'll want to run full speed for sure.



Elevator trim I believe is a safety issue if you don't do speed reduction

on it, but ONLY at airspeeds over 100 or 110kts.  You definitely

want full speed when in the pattern.  But you absolutely don't want

full speed while flying. It is just too dangerous if you get a stuck

switch, shorted ground, bumped switch, or anything that could cause

more than 1 second of accidental trim. Even 1 second of accidental

trim is almost guaranteed to cause you to bust your IFR assigned

altitude, so even from that aspect it's just not worth leaving it full

speed.  Yes, I also flew many hours with only full-speed trim, but

that wasn't incident free.  It did work, and I learned to live with it

for a while, but there are safety issues and I think Safety Trim basically

fixed all those issues for me.   This isn't meant to be a plug for

Safety Trim, because it gets annoying when people constantly

plug products on the forums, but, they did a great job on it.

If you have Vertical Power and do it there, fine.  If you did a

roll-your own, fine.  Even if you don't deal with runaway trim,

you really need to do something to have a dual-stage speed

on the trim.  Do it however you want...but just do it.



Tim



On 12/8/2013 10:29 AM, Pascal wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		   



 I mentioned the tab, that fellow Don McDonald helped me create and it 

 was not a big deal. You grab a piece of aluminum, 4" X 2" and you bend 

 it slightly. Fly and see what happens at cruise. adjust as needed and 

 repeat flight until ball is centered. If I add up the cost of gas I 

 guess it was about $75, except I was flying anyway so it was 

 practically free. My ball is centered than not and I rarely need to 

 adjust it in cruise, John is right on, once you get the rudder tab 

 tuned in there is very little trim adjustments needed.

 I know Tim Olson went the route of the trim tab to electronic trim, I 

 would encourage all you debating this to check out his extensive 

 review and steps to do oneself.

 Pascal

flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 9:59 am Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

Absolutely, without a doubt, an excellent post.  I really learned a lot 

and also got some valuable info.

I agree that building a stock airframe isn't 'bad' except to say that 

departure from the plans adds immense additional build time. At least it 

does for me.

I chose to use model airplane servos because of the light weight (one of 

my 'hot buttons') and low cost.  Ease of installation using the hinge 

method is also a plus.  However I had to install a pulse width 

controller for the servos ..... and instead of a simple 555 chip I chose 

to do it with an evaluation processor so I could control it's speed and 

position 'better'.    Because I can!

I have already wired the elevator trim and flap controls through relays 

and thanks to Tim's take on the elevator trim speed I'll go ahead and 

add both of them to the processor program to 'pulse' the relays and 

thereby control the speed of those two functions as well.  Making the 

speed variable with the length of time the button is pressed becomes a 

simple programming task.  The change does, however, add to my build 

time, but I take Tim's concern with elevator trim speed as a safety 

factor seriously.

As for Tim's 'funny part' ..... I don't think there's real effort to 

start a food fight every so often.  I like to search a subject to see 

what has been written before but may post the same question again since 

there's more 'experience' gained by those fortunate to get their project 

finished and gaining additional knowledge on whether the mods they made 

were successful or a waste of time.

OK, lunch is over so it's back to building!!!

Linn

On 12/9/2013 11:12 AM, Tim Olson wrote:

 	  Quote: 	

 It's always funny to watch this thread pop up, it's almost like 

 someone has

 it on their calendar to re-start the debate every 4 or 6 months.

 Basically, my thoughts on Rudder trim are these:

 First and foremost, rudder trim is not something that is a 

 one-size-fits-all

 thing.  It is not a NEEDED thing, and it isn't a big safety thing.  

 There isn't

 any reason people HAVE to have rudder trim.  I flew something like

 285 hours before I had any rudder trim, flying with a wooden block 

 painted

 to match and attached and in general it was nearly sufficient.

 Nearly.

 Everyone flies a different mission, and I fly very little short-hop local

 flights.  I probably spend over 90% of my flying on longer legs.

 Some of them loaded to gross wt.  Some light.  Some in between.

 Airspeeds vary between 150kts and 170kts.  It all depends.

 In that environment, those first 285 hours had the annoyance of

 always requiring a foot on a pedal putting just the right pressure

 on to keep in trim.  What happens if you are not in trim?  Well, it's

 worse than just having a constant crab angle....the view out the

 window is tilted.  To have a nice level horizon, you need to be in trim.

 I find it annoying to not be level....because it just isn't right, and

 shouldn't be that way.  For a short hop you wouldn't even notice

 it.  But, if you are an X/C flier, it is a pain.

 A rudder block, or fixed tab (bendable), would suffice if you almost 

 always

 fly the same speeds and weights.  It is simple, easy, and as Pascal

 did, the bendable tab is about as simple and easy and quick to do as you

 can get.   For a static tab I think I prefer the wedge block, for 

 aesthetics,

 but once you have it set right, it will fix probably much of your trim

 issues.  Some of my trips pre-trim were ok.  Many of them were not.

 It all depended on if I flew LOP, ROP, heavy, or light.  It's not 

 wrong to

 go that way.  For many people, you'll be satisfied.

 Then there's the spring-bias trim.  Now that there are good choices

 out there, I think this is a plenty reasonable alternative for many.

 As Sean mentioned, it does give some spring to the rudder to prevent

 minor movement in light breeze.  It does not at all mean you don't

 need a gust lock.  It's fairly simple to install, and should do the job

 pretty well.   Personally, I would recommend that if you go with spring

 bias trim, you also do a fixed wedge to correct most of it.  That way

 the spring bias is nearly 100% neutralized most of the time, and

 you only use it slightly.  There's nothing at all wrong with the

 spring bias trim, and I think many people will love it.  It's the minimum

 that I personally would be happy with....and it can be added post-build,

 so that's nice too.

 Then there's the adjustable tab trim.  This is what I have.

 It's something that I *personally* would absolutely do again,

 and my preference hasn't changed...I'd do it the same way. In fact, 

 I'll be

 rebuilding my rudder someday and I plan to incorporate it almost 

 identically

 into the new build.  I had debated adding a cutout tab, but I don't 

 know if it's

 worth the work and the increased thinking about how to structurally 

 reinforce

 things.  The hinge tab on the trailing edge is simple, works well, and 

 is fairly

 minimal impact.  I don't remember exactly (I think it's in my 

 write-up) how long

 it took, but I'm sure it wasn't more than one weekend, with the bulk 

 of it

 being one evening.  So time invested was minimal.  To me, aerodynamic

 trim like this is about as good as you can get for trimming. You're 

 actually

 trimming your flying surface of the rudder to be in trim, just like 

 you do

 with the elevator.  It means that there is no tension on either rudder

 cable in flight, which isn't necessarily a benefit...it just means 

 that the

 rudder has no need for any actuation to keep it perfect.  I actually

 think a little spring return on the pedals may be a good thing, but 

 again,

 there are ways that it will also be less convenient.  Van's has a very

 simple system, and any change to it adds some degree of

 negative side, even if there is a benefit added.  The world isn't

 100% black or 100% white....anything you do will involve a little

 grey.  The biggest downside to the electric trim is that you will be 

 BETTER

 off doing it pre-paint.  I did mine post-paint and while it turned out 

 good,

 it would have been better pre-paint.   The biggest upside is

 the absolute perfect adjustment to trim with no effect on the pedals

 or feel whatsoever.   Do I use it, yes....I just did a round trip to 

 Florida

 and I used it on that trip both ways.  I had a sloped horizon at one 

 point

 that was ticking me off, so I trimmed it out.  It worked well. But, 

 it's not

 necessarily "better" than any other method.  All of them can work.

 I do think that for most x/c fliers, at least those who are really in 

 tune

 to their airplane, will enjoy at least some form of adjustable trim.

 I also think that for those who don't have adjustable trim, their 

 opinions

 may actually change as they fly more and more long x/c legs.  The fact

 is, trim is not a static thing unless all flight characteristics are

 also static....it's just the individual's toleration for imperfection 

 as it

 gets more out of trim.

 It's just funny to see the thread come back again and again.

 You can ask if rudder trim is needed, and either answer, Yes or No,

 is correct.  And which system is best?  Well, that is all up to

 the builder too. You're going to find satisfied people with ANY method.

 So I'd encourage the builder to actually sit and think about it on their

 own.  Spend some time pondering it.  Then just pick one and go.

 Aileron trim....that I think is needed. Yes, there are those who don't 

 agree,

 but the -10 tanks are so long, and it doesn't take too much imbalance to

 develop that rolling tendency.   You can minimize it with good fuel

 management, but if this one were put to a vote, my guess is you'd

 have maybe 5-10% of the people who fly lots of X/C time who

 would vote no.

 Rudder trim, if electric, would be ok either at full speed or reduced.

 If you have safety trim, which is probably ideal from a simplicity

 standpoint in wiring, I'd just do speed reduction so you can be

 very precise. Otherwise, full-speed will work.

 Aileron trim you'll want to run full speed for sure.

 Elevator trim I believe is a safety issue if you don't do speed reduction

 on it, but ONLY at airspeeds over 100 or 110kts.  You definitely

 want full speed when in the pattern.  But you absolutely don't want

 full speed while flying. It is just too dangerous if you get a stuck

 switch, shorted ground, bumped switch, or anything that could cause

 more than 1 second of accidental trim. Even 1 second of accidental

 trim is almost guaranteed to cause you to bust your IFR assigned

 altitude, so even from that aspect it's just not worth leaving it full

 speed.  Yes, I also flew many hours with only full-speed trim, but

 that wasn't incident free.  It did work, and I learned to live with it

 for a while, but there are safety issues and I think Safety Trim 

 basically

 fixed all those issues for me.   This isn't meant to be a plug for

 Safety Trim, because it gets annoying when people constantly

 plug products on the forums, but, they did a great job on it.

 If you have Vertical Power and do it there, fine.  If you did a

 roll-your own, fine.  Even if you don't deal with runaway trim,

 you really need to do something to have a dual-stage speed

 on the trim.  Do it however you want...but just do it.

 Tim

 On 12/8/2013 10:29 AM, Pascal wrote:

> 

>

> I mentioned the tab, that fellow Don McDonald helped me create and it 

> was not a big deal. You grab a piece of aluminum, 4" X 2" and you 

> bend it slightly. Fly and see what happens at cruise. adjust as 

> needed and repeat flight until ball is centered. If I add up the cost 

> of gas I guess it was about $75, except I was flying anyway so it was 

> practically free. My ball is centered than not and I rarely need to 

> adjust it in cruise, John is right on, once you get the rudder tab 

> tuned in there is very little trim adjustments needed.

> I know Tim Olson went the route of the trim tab to electronic trim, I 

> would encourage all you debating this to check out his extensive 

> review and steps to do oneself.

> Pascal

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napolin(at)me.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 11:59 am Post subject: rudder trim RV-10

I only have about 65 hours on the 10 but I just flew from MD to FL.  I found that it doesnt take much force on the pedals to center the ball and there is enough friction in the system to keep it there a good part of the time.   Right now I dont see any need for rudder trim.



On the other hand I dont have the wheel pants or landing gear fairings installed yet and if they arent aligned perfectly rudder trim might become more important



Nikolaos Napoli



 	  Quote: 	
		   On Dec 6, 2013, at 10:21 PM, bob88 <marty.crooks(at)comcast.net> wrote:

 

 

 

 Anyone have experience with the electric rudder trim kit that is available for the RV10? Is rudder trim important in the 10?

 

 

 

 

 Read this topic online here:

 

 http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415035#415035

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