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stuart(at)harnerfarm.net
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 Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 1:06 pm Post subject: covering & ink issue |
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Just a word to all builders about making sure you get any and ALL marking
pen ink off before you cover.
This is stressed over and over in both the builder's manual and the Poly
Fiber manual. I worked and worked on it and thought I had it all cleaned
off. I made two complete trips around each side of each wing after I could
no longer detect any dirt on a paper towel soaked in lacquer thinner.
Only today when I rolled the wing over to finish the tapes on the underside,
did I notice ink bleeding through from under the false ribs all along the
leading edge!
All of the steps I took and not a bit of this showed up until I was using
the Poly-Brush to glue down the finishing tapes. 
Kind of heart sick about it, as I was planning (even bought the paint
already) on having lemon yellow wings. I know this will bleed through that
and be ugly as sin. I know my workmanship is not very good, but this makes
it look much worse than it is. And of course, I did not find out until
after both wings are covered.
My backup plan (now) is to re-design my paint scheme so as to have a black
leading edge. This may not work out too bad, as I had planned on using some
black anyway.
MORRAL OF THE STORY:
Get some carb cleaner or brake cleaner in spray cans and blast the heck out
of all the rib connection points and anywhere else it may look like there
might be magic marker or ink that you cannot get to with a rag. A few $$
spent on a spray cleaner will save you a lot of problems.
All the parts that are not covered already are going to get an extra blast
cleaning before I do any other wipe down with lacquer thinner prior to
covering.
Stuart
PS Any other ideas on how to stop the bleed through?
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byoungplumbing(at)gmail.c
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| Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 3:17 pm Post subject: covering & ink issue |
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Stewart
By the time you put on the silver Polly spray, that will cover all the bleed through. Then got yellow to get it bright you put on white over silver then yello.
Boyd [quote][b]
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rickofudall
Joined: 19 Sep 2009
Posts: 1392
Location: Udall, KS, USA
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| Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 7:27 pm Post subject: covering & ink issue |
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Design a graphic for you leading edge and use Aerothane. You'll lose the easy repairability of Poly Tone, but since Aerothane is a catalyzed urethane paint and doesn't have the MEK solvent mixture in it it will encapsulate the ink. Should that fail, you can always get vinyl graphic overlays like the NASCAR teams do and cover it up that way.
Rick Girard
On Mon, Mar 31, 2014 at 6:16 PM, B Young <byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com (byoungplumbing(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
| Quote: |
Stewart
By the time you put on the silver Polly spray, that will cover all the bleed through. Then got yellow to get it bright you put on white over silver then yello.
Boyd | Quote: |
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Zulu Delta
Mk IIIC
Thanks, Homer GBYM
It isn't necessary to have relatives in Kansas City in order to be unhappy.
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[quote][b]
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Rick Lewis
Joined: 03 Jul 2007
Posts: 122
Location: Kingston, Tn.
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| Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 4:10 pm Post subject: Re: covering & ink issue |
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Never mark any metal parts that you will be covering with a magic marker, always use a pencil.....Opps sorry about that, I was thinking of the fabric marking not the metal and was just reminded of the problem with pencil on alum. I didn't have any magic marker ink bleed through because either I managed to wipe it all off or the fact that I painted an epoxy coat on all the metal before covering....
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_________________
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Last edited by Rick Lewis on Wed Apr 02, 2014 11:39 am; edited 1 time in total |
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ceengland7(at)gmail.com
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| Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 5:19 pm Post subject: covering & ink issue |
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On 4/1/2014 7:10 PM, Rick Lewis wrote:
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Never mark any metal parts that you will be covering with a magic marker, always use a pencil.....
--------
Rick Lewis
(VW Watercooled Engine)
Danger! Danger, Will Robinson! (Apologies to sci fi fans)
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While you'll probably get away with it, lead pencil (carbon) on aluminum
is a big no-no due to corrosion potential.
Charlie
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stuart(at)harnerfarm.net
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| Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 6:38 pm Post subject: covering & ink issue |
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Yeah, these were marks from the factory. I knew they were there and thought
I had removed all the ink.
Apparently, there was some still under the rib where I could not see it. A
good spray down with carb cleaner would have blasted into the space and
removed the ink. I am thinking a blast from the front and one from the
back, then let it sit a minute and do it again. Holding a paper towel on
the other side while blasting should show any traces of ink. Spray until
none is seen.
Woulda, coulda, shoulda.
Stuart
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stuart(at)harnerfarm.net
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| Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2014 7:08 pm Post subject: covering & ink issue |
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This is the proper advice, but I doubt a real problem as long as the
aluminum does not get exposed to water or high temperatures. Scratches can
be as much or more of a problem.
IF I were ever to tackle one of these projects just to see if I could make a
trophy catcher, I would clean and anodyne all the aluminum parts before
assembly. Maybe even use a nice white epoxy primer to boot. Then use the
full Poly Fiber process with Aerothane so it could be all shiny and pretty.
Of course, I would have to get a lot better at covering and painting.
It sure is a good thing I only want a light and low cost toy to puddle jump
with, otherwise this could be quite frustrating.  As it is, I am trying
to go as light as possible by skipping the Poly-Spray and using UV blocker
in the Poly-Tone. Then only hopefully two coats of color over two coats of
Poly-Brush. I am even going to mask and paint each color separately so as
not to have any double coated areas.
No, I am not that much of a freak about light weight, I am just that cheap!
More progress was made today. All the tapes and patches are applied to the
left wing. Tomorrow will consist of a last pass with the iron looking for
lumps and such. A clean up of drips and runs and smoothing of brush marks
with MEK. Then a complete wipe down with MEK and a tack rag followed by the
first full brush on coat of Poly-Brush.
This turns out to be a process of heating the shop really warm, turning off
the furnace (including the pilot light) then running an exhaust fan until
the fumes lower enough so it is safe to relight the furnace and start all
over on the other side.
The right wing is covered and shrunk, but still need stitching and tapes
before the Poly-Brush. Elevators are covered, but not taped. All other
surfaces still need fabric, so there is lots to do before setting up the
spray equipment.
Any spraying will have to wait for warmer weather when I can move outside.
I wish it was farther along, but I am trying to go slow and make sure it is
done right and do the best I can.
Later,
Stuart
Do not archive
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