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RV-6A shaky nose wheel

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dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz
Guest

Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:33 pm Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

I've occasionally felt some strange vibes coming from the front of the

airplane on landing but wasn't sure what it was because it happened so

seldom. I put a camera under the wing tip and caught it red handed a few

weeks ago. It hadn't happened for quite some time before then and coincided

with me filling the nose tire (~35 PSI) prior to the flight. Check out the

you tube link below (first 2 minutes) and tell me what you think . Is it

caused by higher pressure in the tire or? The thought of the gear leg coming

apart from all that shaking makes me a bit nervous. Like to find a cure so

that doesn't happen. I noticed at the last annual that the nose tire is

wearing much more in the center and I have NOT installed a wood stiffener on

the leg.



www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_CaaRJh3pA

Dean Psiropoulos

RV-6A    N197DM

200+ hours of flying fun

vanremog(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 9:08 pm Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

Scary...Looks like inadequate tensioning of the nose gear breakout force to me.  I found that I had to double up on the Belleville washers to get mine to be in the right range.  I also keep all my tires around 31 psig.

  

  

  --

pilots2(at)yahoo.com
Guest

Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 9:32 pm Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

I agree.  Dismantle the whole nose wheel / gear leg attachment system.  Check that the washers are positioned correctly (per the plans), reassemble and tighten the nut until you get the book breakout force - then cotter key it.  ( disassembled you can also check the condition of the fork bushings). Just had an errant thought.  Are you using the smaller nose wheel fork, and if so, did you cut off the excess thread and re thread the gear leg?   If your using the small fork and have not modified the gear leg then the nut is bottoming out on the threads and you will never get the right tension. 



Reuven 

 

Enjoy life now

It has an expiration date.

     On Monday, April 14, 2014 10:19 PM, "vanremog(at)aol.com" <vanremog(at)aol.com> wrote:

  

   Scary...Looks like inadequate tensioning of the nose gear breakout force to me.  I found that I had to double up on the Belleville washers to get mine to be in the right range.  I also keep all my tires around 31 psig.

  

  

  --

flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 3:40 am Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

I agree too!  I haven't got there yet       (fiberglass hell on a -10), but my little Grumman has a similar       nose wheel setup.  Grumman specs 25 Lbs pull at the axle but 28-30       works better.  As for the short nose fork, wouldn't adding more       belleville washers be an easier fix???  Just thinking out loud       ..... the Grumman washers are thinner than Vans and they stack       more of them.

       Linn

       On 4/15/2014 1:31 AM, Reuven Silberman wrote:

     

     [quote]       I agree.  Dismantle         the whole nose wheel / gear leg attachment system.  Check that         the washers are positioned correctly (per the plans), reassemble         and tighten the nut until you get the book breakout force - then         cotter key it.  ( disassembled you can also check the condition         of the fork bushings). Just had an errant thought.  Are you         using the smaller nose wheel fork, and if so, did you cut off         the excess thread and re thread the gear leg?   If your using         the small fork and have not modified the gear leg then the nut         is bottoming out on the threads and you will never get the right         tension. 

         

         Reuven 

         

           

          

         Enjoy life now

           It has an expiration date.

                                                  On Monday,                   April 14, 2014 10:19 PM, "vanremog(at)aol.com" (vanremog(at)aol.com)                   <vanremog(at)aol.com> (vanremog(at)aol.com) wrote:

                  

                                                     Scary...Looks                         like inadequate tensioning of the nose gear                         breakout force to me.  I found that I had to                         double up on the Belleville washers to get mine                         to be in the right range.  I also keep all my                         tires around 31 psig.

                     -----Original                       Message-----

                       From: DEAN PSIROPOULOS                       <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net> (dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net)

                       To: rv-list <rv-list(at)matronics.com> (rv-list(at)matronics.com)

                       Sent: Mon, Apr 14, 2014 9:33 pm

                       Subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

                       

                                                 	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net (dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net)>

I've occasionally felt some strange vibes coming from the front of the

airplane on landing but wasn't sure what it was because it happened so

seldom. I put a camera under the wing tip and caught it red handed a few

weeks ago. It hadn't happened for quite some time before then and coincided

with me filling the nose tire (~35 PSI) prior to the flight. Check out the

you tube link below (first 2 minutes) and tell me what you think . Is it

caused by higher pressure in the tire or? The thought of the gear leg coming

apart from all that shaking makes me a bit nervous. Like to find a cure so

that doesn't happen. I noticed at the last annual that the nose tire is

wearing much more in the center and I have NOT installed a wood stiffener on

the leg.



www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_CaaRJh3pA

Dean Psiropoulos

RV-6A    N197DM

200+ hours of flying fun



t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

tp://forums.matronics.com

_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution



	
                       

                     

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Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 4:24 am Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

I've been flying my RV-7A for about 10 years now out of a not too smooth  grass strip.  Every couple of years I have to replace the bolt at the top  of the nose gear leg.  You can see this looseness by rocking the plane side  to side with the prop.  Its a rotation of the gear leg in the engine mount  socket.  When I remove the bolt it is crushed a little.  I've tried  LockTite around the gear leg, etc., but greasing it and replacing the bolt seems  to be as good as anything I've tried.  I'm tempted to weld it to the engine  mount at the top thinking that if I bend the gear leg, I'll probably have to  replace the engine mount anyway.

  

 Rather than using the axle bolt to adjust the bearing, I made a spacer out  of 3/4 dia. rod to go inside the nose wheel so that I could tighten the  axle bolt.  This makes a much stronger assembly.  Its a little hard to  get the length of the spacer right, but well worth the effort.  It must be  (should be anyway) faced off in a lathe.  To keep it in place during  installation, use a piece of 3/8 dia. rod a little shorter than the space  the wheel fits in.  Then the axle bolt will push the rod out as you push  the axle bolt in without letting the spacer drop out of position.

  

 Not part of the solution, but the Nose Job gear leg brace is a good  investment IMHO.

  

 Just the way I did it.  Hope this helps someone.

  

 Dan Hopper

 RV-7A N766DH

  

  

  



 

  	  Quote: 	
		      	  Quote: 	
		   	  Quote: 	
		  



	
	
	


 [quote][b]

sarg314(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:53 am Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

My 6A nose wheel tends to wiggle at high (35ps) air pressure. I keep it below 30 and it seems to be OK. 

RV-6A, N811WT



On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 5:23 AM,  <Hopperdhh(at)aol.com (Hopperdhh(at)aol.com)> wrote:

  	  Quote: 	
		       Â 

 Â 

 I've been flying my RV-7A for about 10 years now out of a not too smooth  grass strip.Â  Every couple of years I have to replace the bolt at the top  of the nose gear leg.Â  You can see this looseness by rocking the plane side  to side with the prop.Â  Its a rotation of the gear leg in the engine mount  socket.Â  When I remove the bolt it is crushed a little.Â  I've tried  LockTite around the gear leg, etc., but greasing it and replacing the bolt seems  to be as good as anything I've tried.Â  I'm tempted to weld it to the engine  mount at the top thinking that if I bend the gear leg, I'll probably have to  replace the engine mount anyway.

 Â 

 Rather than using the axle bolt to adjust the bearing, I made a spacer out  of 3/4 dia. rodÂ to go inside the nose wheel so that I could tighten the  axle bolt.Â  This makes a much stronger assembly. Â Its a little hard to  get the length of the spacer right, but well worth the effort.Â  It must be  (should be anyway)Â faced off in a lathe.Â  To keep it in place during  installation,Â use a piece of 3/8 dia. rod a little shorter than the space  the wheel fits in.Â  Then the axle bolt will push the rod out as you push  the axle bolt in without letting the spacer drop out of position.

 Â 

 Not part of the solution, but the Nose Job gear leg brace is a good  investment IMHO.

 Â 

 Just the way I did it.Â  Hope this helps someone.

 Â 

 Dan Hopper

 RV-7A N766DH

 Â 

 Â 

  



Â 

  	  Quote: 	
		      	  Quote: 	
		   	  Quote: 	
		  



	
	
	




  	  Quote: 	
		  



t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List

tp://forums.matronics.com

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-- 

Tom Sargent 

  [quote][b]

swayze(at)europa.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:44 am Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

Dean,



I've studied this issue to some depth, and the problem is the design 

of the nose wheel bearings. The forward-backward oscillations 

mentioned by Charles Brame are due to pinching of the wheel by the 

bearings as it rotates. The bearings bind when weight is put on the 

wheel. But you don't dare loosen up the bearings too much either. The 

solution is a solid axle and spacer, new maintenance-free bearings, 

and precision balancing of the wheel and tire. I had this service 

done on mine by Antisplat-Aero, and a local friend has some 

before-and-after video, like yours, showing exactly how yours behaves 

(the before) and the dramatic difference and smoothness after it's 

done. It was so nice to torque my axle down nice and tight, and the 

wheel spins freely by hand. I pump up the nose wheel to 35 psi or even more.



Take a look at this video, and see what it's all 

about.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpfazTrtbyY



It cost me a little over $200 to get this done, and I've never felt 

like money was better spent. I should mention I have no affiliation 

with these people and nothing to gain by this. I'm just a very happy 

customer of this service.



Best to you,



Bruce Swayze



At 09:31 PM 4/14/2014, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

<dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>

I've occasionally felt some strange vibes coming from the front of the

airplane on landing but wasn't sure what it was because it happened so

seldom. I put a camera under the wing tip and caught it red handed a few

weeks ago. It hadn't happened for quite some time before then and coincided

with me filling the nose tire (~35 PSI) prior to the flight. Check out the

you tube link below (first 2 minutes) and tell me what you think . Is it

caused by higher pressure in the tire or? The thought of the gear leg coming

apart from all that shaking makes me a bit nervous. Like to find a cure so

that doesn't happen. I noticed at the last annual that the nose tire is

wearing much more in the center and I have NOT installed a wood stiffener on

the leg.



www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_CaaRJh3pA

Dean Psiropoulos

RV-6A    N197DM

200+ hours of flying fun

jon(at)finleyweb.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 4:58 am Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

Dean, Bruce, and all,



I hate to be argumentative but it appears to me that the wheel is on the

wrong end of the airplane.  



Jon

http://jdfinley.com



P.S. Ya just knew some doink was going to bring this up...



--

swayze(at)europa.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 5:16 am Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

I mentioned a friend who had the nose wheel bearing mod done on his 

RV, and he took before-and-after videos of the nose wheel behavior on 

some of his landings. I looked up the video for you, so you can see 

the difference the modification made for his RV.  I know him 

personally, and he swears by this. Take a look:



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0kHXOIop5Y



At 09:31 PM 4/14/2014, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  

<dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>

I've occasionally felt some strange vibes coming from the front of the

airplane on landing but wasn't sure what it was because it happened so

seldom. I put a camera under the wing tip and caught it red handed a few

weeks ago. It hadn't happened for quite some time before then and coincided

with me filling the nose tire (~35 PSI) prior to the flight. Check out the

you tube link below (first 2 minutes) and tell me what you think . Is it

caused by higher pressure in the tire or? The thought of the gear leg coming

apart from all that shaking makes me a bit nervous. Like to find a cure so

that doesn't happen. I noticed at the last annual that the nose tire is

wearing much more in the center and I have NOT installed a wood stiffener on

the leg.



www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_CaaRJh3pA

Dean Psiropoulos

RV-6A    N197DM

200+ hours of flying fun

Hopperdhh(at)aol.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:09 am Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

Hello Bruce and Dean,

  

  I certainly agree that it is good to be able to tighten the axle nut.

  



 But, I can't see why this relatively expensive fix is any better than  the spacer idea I posted earlier which I copied and pasted here:

  

  Rather than using the axle bolt to adjust the bearing, I made a spacer out  of 3/4 dia. rod to go inside the nose wheel so that I could tighten the  axle bolt.  This makes a much stronger assembly.  Its a little hard to  get the length of the spacer right, but well worth the effort.  It must be  (should be anyway) faced off in a lathe.  To keep it in place during  installation, use a piece of 3/8 dia. rod a little shorter than the space  the wheel fits in.  Then the axle bolt will push the rod out as you push  the axle bolt in without letting the spacer drop out of position.

  

 What I am talking about is a small spool that holds the inner bearing  cones apart so that the bearings have a fixed "adjustment" determined by the  length of the spacer.

  

 Tapered roller bearings are used in almost all cars on the road and in all  certificated airplanes.  There surely is nothing wrong with the basic  design.

  

 Sincerely,

  

 Dan

 RV7A

 N766DH

  

  



  

  

  In a message dated 4/16/2014 8:45:04 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  swayze(at)europa.com writes:

  	  Quote: 	
		  -->    RV-List message posted by: Bruce Swayze    <swayze(at)europa.com>



Dean,



I've studied this issue to some    depth, and the problem is the design 

of the nose wheel bearings. The    forward-backward oscillations 

mentioned by Charles Brame are due to    pinching of the wheel by the 

bearings as it rotates. The bearings bind    when weight is put on the 

wheel. But you don't dare loosen up the bearings    too much either. The 

solution is a solid axle and spacer, new    maintenance-free bearings, 

and precision balancing of the wheel and tire.    I had this service 

done on mine by Antisplat-Aero, and a local friend has    some 

before-and-after video, like yours, showing exactly how yours behaves    

(the before) and the dramatic difference and smoothness after it's    

done. It was so nice to torque my axle down nice and tight, and the    

wheel spins freely by hand. I pump up the nose wheel to 35 psi or even    more.



Take a look at this video, and see what it's all    

about.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpfazTrtbyY



It    cost me a little over $200 to get this done, and I've never felt 

like    money was better spent. I should mention I have no affiliation 

with these    people and nothing to gain by this. I'm just a very happy 

customer of this    service.



Best to you,



Bruce Swayze



At 09:31 PM 4/14/2014,    you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"    

<dean.psiropoulos(at)verizon.net>

I've    occasionally felt some strange vibes coming from the front of    the

airplane on landing but wasn't sure what it was because it happened    so

seldom. I put a camera under the wing tip and caught it red handed a    few

weeks ago. It hadn't happened for quite some time before then and    coincided

with me filling the nose tire (~35 PSI) prior to the flight.    Check out the

you tube link below (first 2 minutes) and tell me what    you think . Is it

caused by higher pressure in the tire or? The thought    of the gear leg coming

apart from all that shaking makes me a bit    nervous. Like to find a cure so

that doesn't happen. I noticed at the    last annual that the nose tire is

wearing much more in the center and I    have NOT installed a wood stiffener on

the    leg.



www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_CaaRJh3pA

Dean    Psiropoulos

RV-6A    N197DM

200+ hours of flying    ies  ay                 - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS               - List Contribution Web Site  p;                             


	


	


 [quote][b]

ianxbrown

Joined: 16 May 2009
Posts: 80

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 1:19 pm Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

Dean,

I'd suggest measuring the breakout force first.  If the nut had bottomed out

or for any other reason you weren't adjusting the compression washers for

the right force you'd be able to measure it.  Check your builder's manual

for details of tightness and testing method.  Your nose wheel castoring

looks VERY loose.  I'd also check the wheel bearing tightness (maybe the

mains too while you're at it).  The wheel should turn freely.  You might

also want to check the AntiSplatAero.com website for details of an

alternative wheel bearing solution plus their nose gear brace, the Nose Job

Two, which would control that nose gear bounce.



The amount of smoke coming off your tire would account for the excessive

wear in the center of the tread.



Remember the compression washers are supposed to be convex side facing

towards each other.



One last thing - remember back pressure on the stick all the time before and

after touchdown except for maybe a brief second just to get the nose down on

the tarmac.



Nice video.  Best of luck tracking this down.

Ian Brown, RV-9A

Bob Collins

Joined: 11 Mar 2006
Posts: 470
Location: St. Paul, Minnesota

Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 1:37 pm Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

The "turn freely" part of this has always confused me. The instructions are

vague on this (tighten to prevent bearing from turning with the wheel) and

seemingly encouraging it to be tight enough that if you try to spin the

wheel by hand, it won't move that much. 



What do other folks do on this point?



Do not archive



--

_________________
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Letters from Flyover Country
http://rvnewsletter.blogspot.com/

ianxbrown

Joined: 16 May 2009
Posts: 80

Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:28 am Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

Bob Collins asks a good question.  It's always confused me too. How do we

know when a wheel is free enough? I've packed loads of grease after cleaning

the bearings, then tightened until there's just no free lateral play, but at

that point the wheels don't really turn freely.  In fact they stop the

minute you stop turning them.  I was surprised when the AntiSplat nose wheel

job came back and I mounted it.  It turns as freely as a bicycle wheel!

(I'm not connected with them in any way, by the way, just a fan).  I guess

for the standard conical bearings, for the load bearing points, looser

doesn't really change much in terms of pressures and weights on bearing

surfaces.  Are there any experts out there - how much grease should these

bearings get and how tight should they be?



"The "turn freely" part of this has always confused me. The instructions are

vague on this (tighten to prevent bearing from turning with the wheel) and

seemingly encouraging it to be tight enough that if you try to spin the

wheel by hand, it won't move that much. 



What do other folks do on this point?"

dan.pat.b(at)gmail.com
Guest

Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 7:00 am Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

Good MorningHere's another two cents FWIW - I have an RV-7A my wife and I built over 6.5 years in our one-car garage -

I too have puzzled over nose wheel axle tightening - I tighten carefully just to the point where there is no lateral movement in the wheel and no further - at that point the wheel still turns freely (remember that's a 4" wheel so there isn't going to be a lot of spinning free as with a bicycle wheel) - I clean the bearings thoroughly with a solvent and grease them using a bearing greaser available in most auto parts stores - wipe most of the excess grease from the outside - put a small amount of grease around the race and put it back together - haven't had a problem in 458 hours -

 Dan Bergeron

RV-7A N307TB

458 hours since 

     first flight Aug 2009 





On Thu, Apr 17, 2014 at 10:27 AM, Ian Brown <ixb(at)videotron.ca (ixb(at)videotron.ca)> wrote:

 [quote]--> RV-List message posted by: Ian Brown <ixb(at)videotron.ca (ixb(at)videotron.ca)>

 

 Bob Collins asks a good question.  It's always confused me too. How do we

 know when a wheel is free enough? I've packed loads of grease after cleaning

 the bearings, then tightened until there's just no free lateral play, but at

 that point the wheels don't really turn freely.  In fact they stop the

 minute you stop turning them.  I was surprised when the AntiSplat nose wheel

 job came back and I mounted it.  It turns as freely as a bicycle wheel!

 (I'm not connected with them in any way, by the way, just a fan).  I guess

 for the standard conical bearings, for the load bearing points, looser

 doesn't really change much in terms of pressures and weights on bearing

 surfaces.  Are there any experts out there - how much grease should these

 bearings get and how tight should they be?

 

 "The "turn freely" part of this has always confused me. The instructions are

 vague on this (tighten to prevent bearing from turning with the wheel) and

 seemingly encouraging it to be tight enough that if you try to spin the

 wheel by hand, it won't move that much.

 

 What do other folks do on this point?"

 

 

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 ===========

 http://forums.matronics.com

 ===========

 le, List Admin.

 ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution

 ===========

 

 

 

 [b]

Painless

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 40
Location: Peshtigo, Wisconsin

Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2014 12:43 pm Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

I have employed the staking of the nose gear pucks solution to prevent them from rotating.  My axle is tightened to the point where I can spin the wheel and it stops after 1 1/2 revolutions.  That coupled with. 22lbs breakout force and 30lbs of tire pressure has resulted in no nose gear shimmy for me

Jeff Orear

RV 6A.  N782P

Peshtigo, WI



 	  Quote: 	
		   On Apr 17, 2014, at 9:27 AM, Ian Brown <ixb(at)videotron.ca> wrote:

 

 

 

 Bob Collins asks a good question.  It's always confused me too. How do we

 know when a wheel is free enough? I've packed loads of grease after cleaning

 the bearings, then tightened until there's just no free lateral play, but at

 that point the wheels don't really turn freely.  In fact they stop the

 minute you stop turning them.  I was surprised when the AntiSplat nose wheel

 job came back and I mounted it.  It turns as freely as a bicycle wheel!

 (I'm not connected with them in any way, by the way, just a fan).  I guess

 for the standard conical bearings, for the load bearing points, looser

 doesn't really change much in terms of pressures and weights on bearing

 surfaces.  Are there any experts out there - how much grease should these

 bearings get and how tight should they be?

 

 "The "turn freely" part of this has always confused me. The instructions are

 vague on this (tighten to prevent bearing from turning with the wheel) and

 seemingly encouraging it to be tight enough that if you try to spin the

 wheel by hand, it won't move that much. 

 

 What do other folks do on this point?"

_________________
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Peshtigo, WI

swayze(at)europa.com
Guest

Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 1:46 am Post subject: RV-6A shaky nose wheel

Ian,



Bob does indeed ask a good question. It's very difficult for most of 

us to get this right. I don't think it's a matter of too little or 

too much grease. I think the instructions are vague because it's a 

poor design. You tighten it up too much and the wheel won't turn 

freely. It sticks in spots as the wheel rotates.  But you loosen it 

up and the bearings spin against the sides of the fork. It's hard for 

most of us to find the sweet spot. And even then you're left 

wondering... how long will that last until it needs to be adjusted, 

as normal wear and tear take place?



The video link I posted earlier shows how even in the best of 

circumstances, there is some shimmy caused by pinching in spots as 

the wheel rotates, causing the forward and backward shimmy. But after 

he had the wheel bearing mod done, it was dramatically improved. So I 

went ahead and did mine. It's great to give the wheel a spin, and 

like you said, it turns freely like a bicycle wheel! And these 

bearings will never need maintenance. There's certainly more than one 

way to skin this cat, but for my money, the wheel bearing mod is one 

of the best choices I've made.

At 07:27 AM 4/17/2014, you wrote:

 	  Quote: 	
		  



Bob Collins asks a good question.  It's always confused me too. How do we

know when a wheel is free enough? I've packed loads of grease after cleaning

the bearings, then tightened until there's just no free lateral play, but at

that point the wheels don't really turn freely.  In fact they stop the

minute you stop turning them.  I was surprised when the AntiSplat nose wheel

job came back and I mounted it.  It turns as freely as a bicycle wheel!

(I'm not connected with them in any way, by the way, just a fan).  I guess

for the standard conical bearings, for the load bearing points, looser

doesn't really change much in terms of pressures and weights on bearing

surfaces.  Are there any experts out there - how much grease should these

bearings get and how tight should they be?



"The "turn freely" part of this has always confused me. The instructions are

vague on this (tighten to prevent bearing from turning with the wheel) and

seemingly encouraging it to be tight enough that if you try to spin the

wheel by hand, it won't move that much.



What do other folks do on this point?"

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