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BobbyPaulk(at)comcast.net
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 Posted: Thu May 01, 2014 12:52 pm Post subject: CO |
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Chad
Thanks for the update!
I had to extend my exhaust about 7" with a turn down to make most of the CO in the cockpit area go away.
I still smell it due to the 6 loose connectors on the Jabiru exhaust. My firewall is sealed but I think I am getting it from the tail area as you said. If I open both air vents and pressurize the cockpit area it goes away. I would like to find a good way to seal the connections into the muffler.
Bobby ( age 75 )
Zodiac 601 XL "B"
Jabiru 3300 S/N 1141
Sensenich 64" x 51" Prop
Bing Carb 260 Main & 290 Needle Jet
Status - Flying 212 hrs.
[quote][b]
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SIDESLIP
Joined: 14 Oct 2012
Posts: 78
Location: CYOO
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| Posted: Fri May 02, 2014 1:39 am Post subject: Re: CO |
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Bobby;
If it is a slip joint, you have two options. Use NICKEL Anti-Seize, or get Permatex Copper RTV. The local snowmobile race shop here sees unbelievable EGT's and told me the proper way to use this copper RTV silicone.
Coat each end with a VERY thin layer of Copper RTV Silicone, let it set up overnight, or longer, then reassemble the parts. He has NEVER had a leak and runs EGTS so high it would scare you! He melts pistons! The exhaust still doesn't leak. Runs 150 shots of nitrous on a 2 cyl sled engine. These guys are making obscene power and using this method, their exhaust doesn't leak!
I have a brand new exhaust, and just used the Nickel Anti seize and no leaks. Here is what I've been told where everyone goes wrong. They assemble the exhaust systems without ANY sort of lubrication at these joints, and in very short time they wear out, and or seize, causing the exhaust to crack. Once a year I am going to disassemble my exhaust and clean up the slip joints and coat them with a new batch of Nickel anti seize. This stuff is designed for 1500 degrees and up. The copper anti size used on brakes on your car isn't good enough.
Hope this helps!!
Chad
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C-GYXQ. 912ULS. 601XL-B |
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