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More On Gas Cap

 
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Michael Valentine



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 108

PostPosted: Tue Jun 20, 2006 7:47 pm    Post subject: More On Gas Cap Reply with quote

Listers, I am attaching a picture so that you can see what I am facing.

Phil and Ed - thank you for responding specifically. I have asked
more questions below. If anyone else has any more thoughts, I would
love to hear it.

___________
Phil Pyatt wrote:

My wife and I had to beat the welded colars down into the tank. Also
the colars were not square with the leading edge to begin with so we
also used some fairly high force to bend them so that the cap had even
gap distance all the way around the leading edge.
________________

Phil - as much as I like the sound of beating something right now, I'm
not sure I understand. Isn't the collar welded on? How can you beat
it farther down?

I certainly seem to be in the same position - it clearly needs to go
down and it is not flush with the shape of the skin.

_____________
Ed Moody wrote:

You most certainly can shim under the skin to push it up taught
under the filler flange. No matter how tight the skin feels to your
touch the geometry involved will allow you to use cork to lift the
skin to snug under the flange. Give it a try. I'm working on that same
issue right now.
______________

Ed - I don't think I understand your response either. It certainly
seems too tight to shim under the skin to raise it up. It is close
enough to the edge of the tank and the nearest rib that I can't
imagine it coming up this much. The skin was extremely tight to wrap
around the tank and it seems to be pretty set in its geometry (tight
from wrap around front of tank to tight against spar).

After looking at the picture, do you still think I can shim it?

Thanks for everyone's help.

Michael Valentine

Attachment: http://www.matronics.com/enclosures/3d068b3811e209be6858f3d22b39b68b5a1d87ae.JPG


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dredmoody(at)cox.net
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 8:07 am    Post subject: More On Gas Cap Reply with quote

Michael, I think you are right about the flange sticking up a lot but I still don't think it's un-shimable. First however, check to make sure that the filler is screwing all the way down into the welded collar as far as it can. It looks to me like the welders use some sort of compound to block out threads during the welding process and it can be a real bear to remove. Maybe some of your threads are still obstructed by the stuff. If that's the case. some careful solvent and wire brush action might save the day.

Next, once you are sure that it cannot possibly screw down any farther, I believe that if you just experiment a bit with cork or even a carefully and artfully shaped wood "donut" under the skin, around the welded collar, you might be surprised by how much improvement you could acheive.

Regarding the "beating the flange down into the tank" suggestion, my guess is he meant actually bending the top of the tank inward around the filler flange. If that part of the tank is dented inward carrying the welded collar downward with it, the surface flange would end up lower too, possibly making contact with the skin. That being said, bending the tank risks cracks and leaks.

Good luck,

Ed


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ding(at)tbscc.com
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2006 2:54 pm    Post subject: More On Gas Cap Reply with quote

Michael,
What I did was to recess the welded on collar further by
bending the surrounding tank inward a bit, more on the highest side to
achieve alignment. It may sound crude, but that grade of aluminum is very
malleable, and cracking is not a problem. This is the only way I could see
to gain near enough drop for the filler ring to meet the skin. Shimming
under the skin would create a huge distortion in the skin around the filler,
and I don't think it could even be done.
Lynn
Corry, PA


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601zv(at)ritternet.com
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 23, 2006 4:59 pm    Post subject: More On Gas Cap Reply with quote

I have the same problem with four of the ZAC 12-gal. tanks. I paid the high
ZAC price thinking at the time that at least the factory tanks would fit
right, but apparently that was falty reasoning. Seems to me that shimming
up the top skin is not practical and a smaller shim in/around/under the cap
makes more sense. The "hammer down" technique scares me, as I'm sure I would
pound too far in at least one area. So, when hammered down too far, how do
you pull back up?
Also, as an aside question regarding the fuel caps, has anyone contemplated
or accomplished rekeying the locks? Seems crude to me to have to deal with
four separate keys instead of one to fit all tanks.

---


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