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dan(at)rdan.com Guest
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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 10:47 pm Post subject: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
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OK, I'm ready to cut away the blue plastic to dimple the skin, As I've seen most people use a cheep solder iron, but when I used it on my practice kit it left a line mark which doesn't appear to rub out ?
I suppose I may have too much pressure. and I sure when it gets painted no one will notice,,,, or will I ?
Dan
-8 HS
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rv8ch
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 250 Location: Switzerland
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Posted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:40 pm Post subject: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
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I wouldn't bother. I spent a lot of time doing this with
a soldering iron, and then a couple of weeks later I learned
from Van's that leaving the plastic on is a bad idea. It
seems some moisture can get trapped under there and cause
corrosion.
Dan wrote:
Quote: |
OK, I'm ready to cut away the blue plastic to dimple the skin, As I've seen most people use a cheep solder iron, but when I used it on my practice kit it left a line mark which doesn't appear to rub out ?
I suppose I may have too much pressure. and I sure when it gets painted no one will notice,,,, or will I ?
Dan
-8 HS
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--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
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_________________ Mickey Coggins
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deruiteraircraftservices( Guest
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Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 1:08 am Post subject: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
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Hi All,
just to throw a bit of a spanner into the works; what way do the temps of
the soldering iron compare to the melting point of aluminum?
I always remove the blue plastic and dip the parts into a tank of alodine.
Instant protection and it shows when scratched. the blue plastic can be
difficult to remove when left for a few years, never mind corrosion.
Marcel
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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne Guest
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Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:11 am Post subject: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
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Dan wrote:
Quote: |
OK, I'm ready to cut away the blue plastic to dimple the skin, As I've seen most people use a cheep solder iron, but when I used it on my practice kit it left a line mark which doesn't appear to rub out ?
I suppose I may have too much pressure. and I sure when it gets painted no one will notice,,,, or will I ?
Dan
-8 HS
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Just be sure that the tip doesn't have a 'burr' on it; try polishing it
lightly. It will probably still leave a line. Rub the line with a
scotchbrite pad & see if the line disappears. You'll need to scotchbrite
the skin before painting, anyway.
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Dan.Beadle(at)hq.InclineS Guest
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Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:54 am Post subject: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
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I rounded the tip of the soldering iron with the scotch brite wheel.
Kind of a bullet shape.
Then I used a light tough - just score the plastic - don't try to burn
through it.
Then pull it off. It will break along the scored lines and will not
leave a mark on the skins.
Dan
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Mark Phillips in TN
Joined: 10 Jan 2006 Posts: 431 Location: Columbia, TN
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Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:18 am Post subject: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
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Hi Dan-
If you are going all the way thru the plastic, you are pressing too hard-
just a light scoring of the plastic does the trick. If you have a piece with the
plastic on it that you can practice on, try various pressures/speeds until
you get a feel for it. Make sure the iron has no sharp edges on it- nicely
smoothed on Scotchbrite wheel. Running the iron down an aluminum yardstick as a
straightedge helped a bit too. As far as to remove or not remove, my late
version -6A had mostly clear plastic on it, and it came off pretty easily even
after 4 years (wings) see:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5193
I had removed the plastic from the forward side skins on installation, and
had a lot of scratches that needed some clean-up, but don't really think it
would have made a lot of difference, particularly if you are painting. If doing a
polished plane, YMMV. On parts stored long-term (wings, emp), I'm glad I
left it on and would again. Had very minimal fusiliform corrosion around the
edges of maybe two parts- easy to clean-up.
Have fun!
Mark Phillips
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