budyerly(at)msn.com
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 Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2014 6:27 pm Post subject: Clevice \Forks debacle......... |
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Tony
I am out of town on family/Europa family visits combining work and pleasure. Our first trip together for Anita and I in years. Short I phone answer:
Please consult Allied Electronics (alliedelec.com). I use Amp/Tyco or Northwest D sub connectors. They have crimp connectors from #30-#18 gauge wire. Trim servos are normally #26 sized.
Buy the pins and keep on hand in assorted bins. Aircraft avionics use mostly 22,20 and for higher power 18.
I buy the assortment of pins that cover a range. 22-24, 20-22, and for higher amps 18,
Buy descent crimpers of the ratchet type and practice.
I do D subs everywhere. If I need a interior quick disconnect I use a D sub or the very small Molex with square connectors.
Solder has to be practiced and MUST prevent wicking to prevent cracking. Of you are good at it go for it.
Regards,
Bud
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Bud,
Reviewing my emails I noticed your thorough input below to my trim question. I posted recently, some time later, my conclusions, which aerodynamically I will vouch for, but, it is contrary to what you recommended. The manual omits to tell you the orientation of the rivet pattern, which has been the root of my dilemma. My components conflict because of the rivet head, which is a real irritation. I often build too fine tolerances, which is probably a common perfectionist trait, but it commonly creates problems, like this one. I am chasing around trying to get all the pitch circuit sorted, with the top on and off trying to get the counterweight throw sorted too, so that the tailplane hits the bump stops before physical stops. As I did it years ago, I am relearning everything including soldering and fine wire connections for the RC Allen servo and position gauge. I would like to know what form of connector you recommend on the fine wires of the poaition indicator? I could solder on a D-Sub fitting but would prefer a Fast-On crimp but they dont seem to suit below a #22 AWG wire. I also have to get the indicator's connector through the panel hole, because as i recall it is slid into the hole and rests in place with a surrounding flange. I am in Tokyo, so cant check at the moment, but the implication is that my connector needs to go through the hole, and the wires are not that long out if the position indicator to not get it right the first, or at a pinch, the second time.
Seems my cranked control sticks with my Tosten grips are going to give me grief too, as they sit ontop if the stick, through a 1" insert, so the sticks have been cut down as much as possible but still conflict with my panel. I might have to cut and weld in an insert in the middle portion of the stick. It currently doesnt seem to come back far enough at full aft stick, as its only mid thigh. I reckon it should come back till my left elbow is against the seat back would be a good geometry test, so I need to get it back more. I have a fence arrangement around the bottom of my sticks, to attach a leather boot, and stop FOD jamming the controls, but it now makes iy very awkward for me to get in there to try and lengthen the link rod, to crank back the entire range. So, still a work in progress, but I was told to work from the back forward, which is why I'm messing around with trim units. So Bud, if you've got any tips about small wire connectors, i'll soak it up with thanks.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
On 24 May 2014, at 12:03, Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com (budyerly(at)msn.com)> wrote:
[quote] Tony,
In Annex E it says:
Check that trim bellcrank does not contact TS05 push-rod when fully aft (tab full up) and tailplane is trailing edge up.
This should be in Chapter 19 also but is not as it is assumed when checking clearances.
If I read you correctly, I am just repeating what others have said I am afraid. With the stab full up and trim rod full down, the TS05, T shaped trim push rod, should not contact the TS 03 bell crank long arm side where the trim clevises attach at full up stab (I use 13 degrees full up). The clevis from the motor to the clevis on the TS03 butt against one another on the #8 rod attaching them. If you look with the stabs all done, trim tabs on, and fully extended trim motor, look hard at the TS05 trim rod and it normally just contacts the clevis. Simply take it apart,(it is an airplane so if you haven't taken it apart and put it together 5 times, you are doing it wrong.) cut 1/16 inch from each clevis and reassemble and test. 1/8 inch off each is the most I have done. At this time check the TS05 trim push rod does not rub against the slot in the bulkhead it passes through. This is very hard to do with the top on.
Nice to catch it now with the top off rather than go in and try to do it after the top is on, especially with the inspection hole size recommended by the manual.
Now something not in the manual and is very embarrassing:
I found one of my aircraft with the nyloc nut which holds the TS03 to the TS04 (spring and washer thingy) and its check nut were loose. As the damper unit moves, it vibrated a bit and to my distress, the TS04 was a bit floppy. This has never happened to me. Easy fix, a drop of Loctite and tighten up was all it took. I use torque seal paint on all my bolts but never put it on my nylock / check nut on the drag / dampener bolt as I never thought this part would cause trouble... So a word to the wise, make this part of your final assembly check, and put a bit of torque seal paint on your nuts on this part also.
As far as mounting the trim servo, we do add an aluminum plate of .016 inches with 4 nut plates riveted on to it and the plate Reduxed and riveted to the back side of the bulkhead. We use nut plates everywhere where we can't get to a nut easily. (Yes, it takes longer but we have not had good luck with gluing a nut on over time.) We also use a #6 Allen head screw to hold the trim motor on since it is easier to put an Allen screw driver ball head on it than a wrench should the trim motor need to be changed some time in the way distant future. (I've never had a Mac Servo fail, but I have a D sub on it anyway, just in case.)
Enjoy Building
Bud
From: tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com (tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.com)
Subject: Re: Re: Clevice \Forks debacle.........
Date: Fri, 23 May 2014 08:02:24 +1000
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com (europa-list(at)matronics.com)
Hi Bud,
Could you please elaborate where the fouling is more specifically? I appreciate knowing this, so I am thankful Bob brought it up. I have the top still off so its ideal I overcome these issues now.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
On 23 May 2014, at 7:40, "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com (budyerly(at)msn.com)> wrote:
[quote] Bob,
You are right on the money. Every aircraft I have built needed about 1/8 off each clevis on the pitch mechanism to allow the trim bar to clear at full elevator and trim travel. As for interpreting the English Language.... No comment.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
[quote] ---
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