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Matt Dralle
Site Admin
Joined: 08 Nov 2005
Posts: 25627
Location: Livermore CA USA
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 Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 8:52 am Post subject: Rounding The Bottom Flange Of Baggage Door... |
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For the RV-8 Rebuild I decided to build a new front baggage door for a number of reasons. The main reason was due to the less than stellar job I did with the bottom flange that intersects with the top of the fuselage. On the Ruby 1.0, when I finished the baggage door, I found that the bottom flange of the baggage door was sticking out away from the fuselage by about 3/16" and just looked stupid. At that point the door was already built, so the only option I really had was try to put a bend in it using the bending brake. The bend came out fine, but from the first flight to the mishap, I always hated the way that crease looked since it didn't match the rest of the fuselage.
So, on Ruby 2.0 I decided I was going to make a new door and hoped that the first one was just a fluke. Unfortunately, after I finished door #2 I found that I had exactly the same problem with the 3/16" gap at the bottom! Rather than using the brake, this time I clamped the flange between two 1/4" thick pieces of oak wood and tried to bend and stretch it so as to not leave a crease. The good news was that I did get a better fit and the crease was much less, but the bad news was that I didn't use enough clamps and the bend came out inconsistent front to back and, frankly looked a lot worse that the original one. Rats. Another one for the scrape pile.
So, I ordered up another pile of parts to build a third baggage door. But this time, before I did any building, I decided to try to get the fit better right out of the gate and while I still had just a single flat skin and no bulkhead structure underneath. I worked though in my head a dozen different ways that I might put a creaseless bend in the bottom 1" of flange on the door, but nothing seemed like it would really work. Then I remembered that my piece-of-crap-Chinese-made combination shear/brake also had a roller on it! But I didn't get too excited, because I'd never really used the roller because they just seemed like a bigger piece of crap than the rest of the tool. Today, I decided to take a closer looks and figure out just what tweaking I'd need to do to get the rollers working.
The first thing I discovered was that the rollers still had the anti-rust, shipping compound on them which made them very uneven and not too consistent for grabbing. I broke out the Acetone and some paper towels and gave them a good cleaning. Turns out, the rollers were pretty well made and smooth, once all the gunk was removed. Next, I fiddled around with the adjustment arms that vary the distance of the rear roller from the front rollers. This distance gives you looser or tighter bend radii depending on their position. But you have to make sure that the distance is exactly the same left-to-right if you want a consistent bend radius. I used a digital caliper and got things dialed in pretty well and used a few sample pieces of .032 2024-T3 to test. In the testing, I found that I could get just the right amount of bend that seemed like it was fitting nicely along the baggage door mounting. So, next, I grabbed the real piece of metal for the top baggage door skin and ran the first 4" or so though the roller from the front. Then I took it out and put it in from behind and ran it though the rollers again which seemed to even the bend out nicely. A trial fit on the fuselage and lo' in behold it was a lot closer that it had been. I adjusted the rollers again for a little bit more bend and repeated the bending process. Even closer this time. One more tightening and the fit was literally perfect! Best of all, from the outside of the baggage door skin, there is NO crease! The natural bend of the door that matches the fuselage top skin simple accelerates evenly over the last 1-2" of the skin which is just right for making a perfect fit and seal with the top of the fuselage.
So, I'm happy to report that I think I will finally have an acceptable baggage door for the RV-8. 'Course, I now I have to build this new one using the freshly rebent skin, during which time there is always lots of opportunity to slip with the rivet gun or whatever and cause a catastrophe that would require a forth attempt. But, let's not focus on that... 
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
| | - The Matronics RV8-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List |
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_________________
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator |
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Matt Dralle
Site Admin
Joined: 08 Nov 2005
Posts: 25627
Location: Livermore CA USA
|
| Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 8:53 am Post subject: Rounding The Bottom Flange Of Baggage Door... |
|
|
For the RV-8 Rebuild I decided to build a new front baggage door for a number of reasons. The main reason was due to the less than stellar job I did with the bottom flange that intersects with the top of the fuselage. On the Ruby 1.0, when I finished the baggage door, I found that the bottom flange of the baggage door was sticking out away from the fuselage by about 3/16" and just looked stupid. At that point the door was already built, so the only option I really had was try to put a bend in it using the bending brake. The bend came out fine, but from the first flight to the mishap, I always hated the way that crease looked since it didn't match the rest of the fuselage.
So, on Ruby 2.0 I decided I was going to make a new door and hoped that the first one was just a fluke. Unfortunately, after I finished door #2 I found that I had exactly the same problem with the 3/16" gap at the bottom! Rather than using the brake, this time I clamped the flange between two 1/4" thick pieces of oak wood and tried to bend and stretch it so as to not leave a crease. The good news was that I did get a better fit and the crease was much less, but the bad news was that I didn't use enough clamps and the bend came out inconsistent front to back and, frankly looked a lot worse that the original one. Rats. Another one for the scrape pile.
So, I ordered up another pile of parts to build a third baggage door. But this time, before I did any building, I decided to try to get the fit better right out of the gate and while I still had just a single flat skin and no bulkhead structure underneath. I worked though in my head a dozen different ways that I might put a creaseless bend in the bottom 1" of flange on the door, but nothing seemed like it would really work. Then I remembered that my piece-of-crap-Chinese-made combination shear/brake also had a roller on it! But I didn't get too excited, because I'd never really used the roller because they just seemed like a bigger piece of crap than the rest of the tool. Today, I decided to take a closer looks and figure out just what tweaking I'd need to do to get the rollers working.
The first thing I discovered was that the rollers still had the anti-rust, shipping compound on them which made them very uneven and not too consistent for grabbing. I broke out the Acetone and some paper towels and gave them a good cleaning. Turns out, the rollers were pretty well made and smooth, once all the gunk was removed. Next, I fiddled around with the adjustment arms that vary the distance of the rear roller from the front rollers. This distance gives you looser or tighter bend radii depending on their position. But you have to make sure that the distance is exactly the same left-to-right if you want a consistent bend radius. I used a digital caliper and got things dialed in pretty well and used a few sample pieces of .032 2024-T3 to test. In the testing, I found that I could get just the right amount of bend that seemed like it was fitting nicely along the baggage door mounting. So, next, I grabbed the real piece of metal for the top baggage door skin and ran the first 4" or so though the roller from the front. Then I took it out and put it in from behind and ran it though the rollers again which seemed to even the bend out nicely. A trial fit on the fuselage and lo' in behold it was a lot closer that it had been. I adjusted the rollers again for a little bit more bend and repeated the bending process. Even closer this time. One more tightening and the fit was literally perfect! Best of all, from the outside of the baggage door skin, there is NO crease! The natural bend of the door that matches the fuselage top skin simple accelerates evenly over the last 1-2" of the skin which is just right for making a perfect fit and seal with the top of the fuselage.
So, I'm happy to report that I think I will finally have an acceptable baggage door for the RV-8. 'Course, I now I have to build this new one using the freshly rebent skin, during which time there is always lots of opportunity to slip with the rivet gun or whatever and cause a catastrophe that would require a forth attempt. But, let's not focus on that...
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
| | - The Matronics RV8-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List |
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2014.06.21-_RV-8_-_Baggage_Door_Skin_Bottom_Rebend_For_Tight_Fit_To_Fuselage.pdf |
| Filesize: |
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_________________
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator |
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chasm711(at)msn.com
Guest
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| Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 12:26 pm Post subject: Rounding The Bottom Flange Of Baggage Door... |
|
|
Matt
The instructions for the door are crap, the good news is that you are half way there with the bend. The next part is to get the door to lay flat on the cowl. To do this you need to rivet the curved flanges and the hinge to the door, do not rivet the back of the door yet. put a temp hinge pin in and see how it fits. stretch or shrink the curved flanges to make to door lay flat with no forcing. to stretch use a rivet squeezer with two flats to stamp the metal and stretch it. It may help to notch the right angle part (the part you rivet the back to) to relieve it. Same procedure to shrink except use a rib shrinker of course. When the door lays smoothly on the cowl rivet the back on. I had to make a new back (two piece, factory is one piece) to make it fit. good luck
Paul Schattauer
RV8 N808PS
built 5 of the damn doors
N808PS was the red RV8 on Vans web page for a long time
| Quote: | Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2014 09:50:46 -0700
To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com; rv-list(at)matronics.com
From: dralle(at)matronics.com
Subject: Rounding The Bottom Flange Of Baggage Door..
For the RV-8 Rebuild I decided to build a new front baggage door for a number of reasons. The main reason was due to the less than stellar job I did with the bottom flange that intersects with the top of the fuselage. On the Ruby 1.0, when I finished the baggage door, I found that the bottom flange of the baggage door was sticking out away from the fuselage by about 3/16" and just looked stupid. At that point the door was already built, so the only option I really had was try to put a bend in it using the bending brake. The bend came out fine, but from the first flight to the mishap, I always hated the way that crease looked since it didn't match the rest of the fuselage.
So, on Ruby 2.0 I decided I was going to make a new door and hoped that the first one was just a fluke. Unfortunately, after I finished door #2 I found that I had exactly the same problem with the 3/16" gap at the bottom! Rather than using the brake, this time I clamped the flange between two 1/4" thick pieces of oak wood and tried to bend and stretch it so as to not leave a crease. The good news was that I did get a better fit and the crease was much less, but the bad news was that I didn't use enough clamps and the bend came out inconsistent front to back and, frankly looked a lot worse that the original one. Rats. Another one for the scrape pile.
So, I ordered up another pile of parts to build a third baggage door. But this time, before I did any building, I decided to try to get the fit better right out of the gate and while I still had just a single flat skin and no bulkhead structure underneath. I worked though in my head a dozen different ways that I might put a creaseless bend in the bottom 1" of flange on the door, but nothing seemed like it would really work. Then I remembered that my piece-of-crap-Chinese-made combination shear/brake also had a roller on it! But I didn't get too excited, because I'd never really used the roller because they just seemed like a bigger piece of crap than the rest of the tool. Today, I decided to take a closer looks and figure out just what tweaking I'd need to do to get the rollers working.
The first thing I discovered was that the rollers still had the anti-rust, shipping compound on them which made them very uneven and not too consistent for grabbing. I broke out the Acetone and some paper towels and gave them a good cleaning. Turns out, the rollers were pretty well made and smooth, once all the gunk was removed. Next, I fiddled around with the adjustment arms that vary the distance of the rear roller from the front rollers. This distance gives you looser or tighter bend radii depending on their position. But you have to make sure that the distance is exactly the same left-to-right if you want a consistent bend radius. I used a digital caliper and got things dialed in pretty well and used a few sample pieces of .032 2024-T3 to test. In the testing, I found that I could get just the right amount of bend that seemed like it was fitting nicely along the baggage door mounting. So, next, I grabbed the real piece of metal for the top baggage door skin and ran the first 4" or so though the roller from the front. Then I took it out and put it in from behind and ran it though the rollers again which seemed to even the bend out nicely. A trial fit on the fuselage and lo' in behold it was a lot closer that it had been. I adjusted the rollers again for a little bit more bend and repeated the bending process. Even closer this time. One more tightening and the fit was literally perfect! Best of all, from the outside of the baggage door skin, there is NO crease! The natural bend of the door that matches the fuselage top skin simple accelerates evenly over the last 1-2" of the skin which is just right for making a perfect fit and seal with the top of the fuselage.
So, I'm happy to report that I think I will finally have an acceptable baggage door for the RV-8. 'Course, I now I have to build this new one using the freshly rebent skin, during which time there is always lots of opportunity to slip with the rivet gun or whatever and cause a catastrophe that would require a forth attempt. But, let's not focus on that...
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
|
[quote][b]
| | - The Matronics RV8-List Email Forum - | | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List |
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