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tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.c
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 Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 6:02 pm Post subject: Soldering Advice |
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Gidday,
I read somewhere about using a different ratio solder from what seems to be more commonly available. Can someone confirm the ratios please…something like 70/30. Thanks.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
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rparigoris
Joined: 24 Nov 2009
Posts: 792
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| Posted: Mon Jun 16, 2014 6:32 pm Post subject: Soldering Advice |
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Hi Tony
See: http://www.mcmaster.com/#general-purpose-solder/=sfvdr5
For electrical soldering I use 60-40 which stays plastic for a while, 63-37 which changes from liquid to solid very quick, works OK to add a joint to 60-40 since it has a lower melting point, I also like the 2% silver which has a melting point between the two which I use for high current joints, it's also probably the strongest. I use the 5 flux core .025" thick. I can solder very thick things with it, just twist it together (sometimes just keep folding in half a 6 foot length). I recently soldered some #2 wires with it, works fine. The Silver is the most expensive, if I could only have one solder, that would be it. My second choice would be 63-37 although 60-40 works pretty good too.
Keep the tip clean on your soldering Iron, dip it in Flux helps, if you have some mildly dirty stuff, mildly activated Rosin flux works a treat.
Ron Parigoris [quote][b]
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budyerly(at)msn.com
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| Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 3:16 pm Post subject: Soldering Advice |
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Tony,
Back from a working vacation. To your questions:
I use the 60/40 (tin/lead) solder mostly. Any lower tin content and after a few years funny noises happen as the solder joint ages. Higher tin is brittle, but looks good on copper pipes. Since we don't do copper pipes, stick to the recommended solder by the experts. 60/40 takes a bit more heat, cools slower and can cause a cold joint if you move the wire while cooling. 63/37 melts and cools nicer. It cools faster, and allows you to hand solder without using a helper or set of clamps to keep everything solid. Use rosin core not acid core solder period. For circuits the 2% silver solder is recommended but not necessary. Heat is a bit higher so use patience.
See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ for a great lesson on tools then go to part 2 for soldering D subs. Also Google proper soldering technique to prevent overheating wires, solder inspection for cold solders, etc. Pace Worldwide has a number of texts and now videos on techniques
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tonyrenshaw268(at)gmail.c
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| Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 10:02 am Post subject: Soldering Advice |
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Thanks Bud,
I have a point tip too and I realise now the benefits of a chisel tip. I'll get one when I get home to Aussie. I understand the heat control better, as I have had the insulation shrink away from the joint. The chisel should make the heat application more controlled. Now to find some 63/37 solder. I tried at home and it seems hard to get, but I believe a jewellery supplier might be able to help me. Evidently they use different ratios of solder to work up things, as the underlying solder has a higher melting point. Clever. I've watched the odd YouTube vid, but am now off to watch some more.
Thanks again.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
On 24 Jun 2014, at 4:16 pm, Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com (budyerly(at)msn.com)> wrote:
[quote] Tony,
Back from a working vacation. To your questions:
I use the 60/40 (tin/lead) solder mostly. Any lower tin content and after a few years funny noises happen as the solder joint ages. Higher tin is brittle, but looks good on copper pipes. Since we don't do copper pipes, stick to the recommended solder by the experts. 60/40 takes a bit more heat, cools slower and can cause a cold joint if you move the wire while cooling. 63/37 melts and cools nicer. It cools faster, and allows you to hand solder without using a helper or set of clamps to keep everything solid. Use rosin core not acid core solder period. For circuits the 2% silver solder is recommended but not necessary. Heat is a bit higher so use patience.
See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ for a great lesson on tools then go to part 2 for soldering D subs. Also Google proper soldering technique to prevent overheating wires, solder inspection for cold solders, etc. Pace Worldwide has a number of texts and now videos on techniques.
As far as wicking, if you heat a wire (copper or mil spec) and get it very hot back under the insulation, when the solder is put to the wire, it will rapidly run up the wire and under the insulation making a very stiff wire. If the wire is flexed or allowed to vibrate, it tends to be brittle and will crack. If the proper technique is used to heat the wire just enough to melt the solder you should be OK. I will admit, I allow my solder iron to get to proper temp, clean the tip and put a small drop of solder on the tip. Then I dip the wire on to the hot solder gun and allow the drip of solder to begin to wick up to just short of the insulation. If the insulation is melting or you can't hold the insulation because the wire is too hot, you've got too much heat. Practice and flex the wire then cut the wire and look. Work on your technique. In a few minutes you will be an expert.
Practice and see what works best as far your equipment and technique. If the solder looks clean, bright and smooth, it will normally be a good joint. I use a round tip on my 20 watt Weller and it has a problem with heating anything but a point source like on a circuit board. A chisel tip on my variable heat Weller is better for most of our work.
Enjoy yourself,
Regards,
Bud Yerly
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