fly4grins(at)gmail.com
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 Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 6:29 am Post subject: fitting the baggage door |
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| Quote: | | I just used a rivet gun, mushroom set, and bucking bar stretch / shape the door frame elements to make them fit properly to the fuselage, and hand rolled / massaged the skin over some sched 40 PVC. Rivetting as much as possible in situ finished the fit. |
FWIW-
[quote]
Time: 09:52:45 AM PST
From: Matt Dralle <dralle(at)matronics.com (dralle(at)matronics.com)>
Subject: Rounding The Bottom Flange Of Baggage Door...
For the RV-8 Rebuild I decided to build a new front baggage door for a
number of reasons. The main reason was due to the less than stellar job I
did with the bottom flange that intersects with the top of the fuselage.
On the Ruby 1.0, when I finished the baggage door, I found that the bottom
flange of the baggage door was sticking out away from the fuselage by about
3/16" and just looked stupid. At that point the door was already built, so
the only option I really had was try to put a bend in it using the bending
brake. The bend came out fine, but from the first flight to the mishap, I
always hated the way that crease looked since it didn't match the rest of
the fuselage.
So, on Ruby 2.0 I decided I was going to make a new door and hoped that the
first one was just a fluke. Unfortunately, after I finished door #2 I
found that I had exactly the same problem with the 3/16" gap at the bottom!
Rather than using the brake, this time I clamped the flange between two
1/4" thick pieces of oak wood and tried to bend and stretch it so as to not
leave a crease. The good news was that I did get a better fit and the
crease was much less, but the bad news was that I didn't use enough clamps
and the bend came out inconsistent front to back and, frankly looked a lot
worse that the original one. Rats. Another one for the scrape pile.
So, I ordered up another pile of parts to build a third baggage door. But
this time, before I did any building, I decided to try to get the fit
better right out of the gate and while I still had just a single flat skin
and no bulkhead structure underneath. I worked though in my head a dozen
different ways that I might put a creaseless bend in the bottom 1" of
flange on the door, but nothing seemed like it would really work. Then I
remembered that my piece-of-crap-Chinese-made combination shear/brake also
had a roller on it! But I didn't get too excited, because I'd never really
used the roller because they just seemed like a bigger piece of crap than
the rest of the tool. Today, I decided to take a closer looks and figure
out just what tweaking I'd need to do to get the rollers working.
The first thing I discovered was that the rollers still had the anti-rust,
shipping compound on them which made them very uneven and not too
consistent for grabbing. I broke out the Acetone and some paper towels and
gave them a good cleaning. Turns out, the rollers were pretty well made
and smooth, once all the gunk was removed. Next, I fiddled around with the
adjustment arms that vary the distance of the rear roller from the front
rollers. This distance gives you looser or tighter bend radii depending on
their position. But you have to make sure that the distance is exactly the
same left-to-right if you want a consistent bend radius. I used a digital
caliper and got things dialed in pretty well and used a few sample pieces
of .032 2024-T3 to test. In the testing, I found that I could get just the
right amount of bend that seemed like it was fitting nicely along the
baggage door mounting. So, next, I grabbed the real piece of metal for the
top baggage door skin and ran the first 4" or so though the roller from the
front. Then I took it out and put it in from behind and ran it though the
rollers again which seemed to even the bend out nicely. A trial fit on the
fuselage and lo' in behold it was a lot closer that it had been. I
adjusted the rollers again for a little bit more bend and repeated the
bending process. Even closer this time. One more tightening and the fit
was literally perfect! Best of all, from the outside of the baggage door
skin, there is NO crease! The natural bend of the door that matches the
fuselage top skin simple accelerates evenly over the last 1-2" of the skin
which is just right for making a perfect fit and seal with the top of the
fuselage.
So, I'm happy to report that I think I will finally have an acceptable
baggage door for the RV-8. 'Course, I now I have to build this new one
using the freshly rebent skin, during which time there is always lots of
opportunity to slip with the rivet gun or whatever and cause a catastrophe
that would require a forth attempt. But, let's not focus on that... 
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer
Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
Time: 01:26:21 PM PST US
From: Paul Schattauer <chasm711(at)msn.com (chasm711(at)msn.com)>
Subject: RE: Rounding The Bottom Flange Of Baggage Door...
Matt
The instructions for the door are crap=2C the good news is that you are hal
f way there with the bend. The next part is to get the door to lay flat on
the cowl. To do this you need to rivet the curved flanges and the hinge
to the door=2C do not rivet the back of the door yet. put a temp hinge pin
in and see how it fits. stretch or shrink the curved flanges to make to d
oor lay flat with no forcing. to stretch use a rivet squeezer with two fla
ts to stamp the metal and stretch it. It may help to notch the right angle
part (the part you rivet the back to) to relieve it. Same procedure to sh
rink except use a rib shrinker of course. When the door lays smoothly on t
he cowl rivet the back on. I had to make a new back (two piece=2C factory
is one piece) to make it fit. good luck
Paul Schattauer
RV8 N808PS
built 5 of the damn doors
N808PS was the red RV8 on Vans web page for a long time
> Date: Tue=2C 24 Jun 2014 09:50:46 -0700
> To: rv8-list(at)matronics.com (rv8-list(at)matronics.com)=3B rv-list(at)matronics.com (rv-list(at)matronics.com)
> From: dralle(at)matronics.com (dralle(at)matronics.com)
> Subject: Rounding The Bottom Flange Of Baggage Door...
>
>
> For the RV-8 Rebuild I decided to build a new front baggage door for a nu
mber of reasons. The main reason was due to the less than stellar job I di
d with the bottom flange that intersects with the top of the fuselage. On
the Ruby 1.0=2C when I finished the baggage door=2C I found that the bottom
flange of the baggage door was sticking out away from the fuselage by abou
t 3/16" and just looked stupid. At that point the door was already built
=2C so the only option I really had was try to put a bend in it using the b
ending brake. The bend came out fine=2C but from the first flight to the m
ishap=2C I always hated the way that crease looked since it didn't match th
e rest of the fuselage.
>
> So=2C on Ruby 2.0 I decided I was going to make a new door and hoped that
the first one was just a fluke. Unfortunately=2C after I finished door #2
I found that I had exactly the same problem with the 3/16" gap at the bott
om! Rather than using the brake=2C this time I clamped the flange between
two 1/4" thick pieces of oak wood and tried to bend and stretch it so as to
not leave a crease. The good news was that I did get a better fit and the
crease was much less=2C but the bad news was that I didn't use enough clam
ps and the bend came out inconsistent front to back and=2C frankly looked a
lot worse that the original one. Rats. Another one for the scrape pile.
>
> So=2C I ordered up another pile of parts to build a third baggage door.
But this time=2C before I did any building=2C I decided to try to get the f
it better right out of the gate and while I still had just a single flat sk
in and no bulkhead structure underneath. I worked though in my head a doze
n different ways that I might put a creaseless bend in the bottom 1" of fla
nge on the door=2C but nothing seemed like it would really work. Then I re
membered that my piece-of-crap-Chinese-made combination shear/brake also ha
d a roller on it! But I didn't get too excited=2C because I'd never really
used the roller because they just seemed like a bigger piece of crap than
the rest of the tool. Today=2C I decided to take a closer looks and figure
out just what tweaking I'd need to do to get the rollers working.
>
> The first thing I discovered was that the rollers still had the anti-rust
=2C shipping compound on them which made them very uneven and not too consi
stent for grabbing. I broke out the Acetone and some paper towels and gave
them a good cleaning. Turns out=2C the rollers were pretty well made and
smooth=2C once all the gunk was removed. Next=2C I fiddled around with the
adjustment arms that vary the distance of the rear roller from the front r
ollers. This distance gives you looser or tighter bend radii depending on
their position. But you have to make sure that the distance is exactly the
same left-to-right if you want a consistent bend radius. I used a digital
caliper and got things dialed in pretty well and used a few sample pieces
of .032 2024-T3 to test. In the testing=2C I found that I could get just t
he right amount of bend that seemed like it was fitting nicely along the ba
ggage door mounting. So=2C next=2C I grabbed the real piece of metal for t
he top baggage door skin and ran the first 4" or so though the roller from
the front. Then I took it out and put it in from behind and ran it though
the rollers again which seemed to even the bend out nicely. A trial fit on
the fuselage and lo' in behold it was a lot closer that it had been. I ad
justed the rollers again for a little bit more bend and repeated the bendin
g process. Even closer this time. One more tightening and the fit was lit
erally perfect! Best of all=2C from the outside of the baggage door skin
=2C there is NO crease! The natural bend of the door that matches the fuse
lage top skin simple accelerates evenly over the last 1-2" of the skin whic
h is just right for making a perfect fit and seal with the top of the fusel
age.
>
> So=2C I'm happy to report that I think I will finally have an acceptable
baggage door for the RV-8. 'Course=2C I now I have to build this new one u
sing the freshly rebent skin=2C during which time there is always lots of o
pportunity to slip with the rivet gun or whatever and cause a catastrophe t
hat would require a forth attempt. But=2C let's not focus on that...
>
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
>
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
> RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
> http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
> Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete=3B Now In Full Flye
r Mode
>
> Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
> Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
> Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
> For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
===========
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV8-List
===========
MS -
k">http://forums.matronics.com
===========
e -
-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
t="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
===========
[b]
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