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SB 2014-08-29
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rj_todd(at)yahoo.co.uk
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:46 am    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf
Rodger
[quote][b]


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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2878

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 11:23 am    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect
mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this...

If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they
don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in
place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't
secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when
it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily
line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on
the engine mount.

For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct?
If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding
glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that
plate from spinning.

I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which
fix I need to perform.
Tim

On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote:
Quote:
Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf

Rodger



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flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 12:43 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

IMHO, if it can spin then there aren't enough U-1002 washers installed
..... too little tension on the donuts. I'm curious about the
potential for the plate wearing on the tubing too. Maybe some silicone
rubber would help???

IMHO, the problem that Vic has experienced is due to two things .....
the age and compression of the donuts and the fact that he flies off a
grass field. IMHO, I suspect that there was pounding of the donuts
against the receptacle. Vic doesn't say how many washers he had
installed .... only that they were tight, and the picture looks like
there may be room for three washers. How tight is tight? The SB says a
max of three U-1002 washers.

The reason there are so many IMHOs is that I haven't completed
installing the U-1002 washers .... I'm not flying yet .... the plans say
one washer on a new install is fine and an additional one as the donuts
compress. At lunch today my non-flying -10 builder buddy said he
installed two outright ..... and it was a bear. Maybe one U-1002 isn't
enough? So, I ask .... how many U-1002 washers did you get installed
initially? More than one?
Linn .... almost done with windshield fairing

On 8/29/2014 3:23 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
Quote:


I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect
mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this...

If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they
don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in
place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't
secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when
it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't
necessarily line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on
the engine mount.

For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct?
If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding
glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that
plate from spinning.

I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which
fix I need to perform.
Tim

On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote:
> Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf
>
> Rodger
>
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rv10flyer(at)live.com
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:15 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

1 isolator at building, let it sit while your building and for the first 10
hours of flying, assuming that means about 10 landings, at that point, since
you're checking the plane after every flight anyway, check and possibly add
the 2nd isolator. At every annual I check the clearance, but at this point 2
seems to be enough as 3 is too hard to force on.

Simply put the abuse of soft field is too much for the way the original
mounts were built after 1000 hours. For someone that has no idea what a soft
field landing is, other than the practice I did on hard runways, feels like
Wink I doubt there is an issue for me over the long run.

Tim;
I gathered from the figure 1 that the plate sits with the four corners held
in place by the arms, so unless there is a huge gap they really should not
move much. Rubbing on the arms is indeed a concern I agree with you on. I
would probably use rtv on all four notched areas and for good measure maybe
even n the plates themselves to diminish vibration should there be any
looseness. Glue would probably be better, and worth a question to Vans on
that need, when ordering the plates.

As always, I'll await your report on how things look for you.

Pascal

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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2878

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:56 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Pascal,
I think you mean 1 spacer washer....you'll always want all of the isolators (elastomer).
Ok, here is my data point. I'm currently at the hangar, and have the gear dropped.  Took the time to send this before it's even completed...


I have just shy of 1070 hours.  I have been on grass for some landings, but, probably only about 50 I'd guess...nothing too drastic.  I have no cracks that I can see, unless they're hidden by paint.  But it all seems to look ok to me.  Of course, we know that it IS NOT ok, because some day there could be a problem, and I should definitely do the doubler.  I also think I'll ask Van's about it when I order it, but I think I'll throw some E6000 glue, just a thin coating, on the doubler...just something to keep it from shifting.  I definitely don't like the idea of anything rubbing on the mount tubes.


That said, I ALSO never liked, and I mean from day 1, that the metal rings from the elastomers hit those tubes.  Yes, mine did from day 1.  I saw them bend.  They are still bent.  And they are still rubbing on the tubes.  I am going to grind the areas that bent so that they no longer contact the tubes.  I personally think (but you may want to ask more expert opinions) that when building you should take the time to grind a relief so that the rings never touch the tubes.

Now for the part that will make people think I'm full of it.

I am almost sure that when I first assembled the gear, I put 2 spacer rings on.  I remember someone asking me a couple years ago how many I added.  At that time I even ordered extra because I didn't even know where I put my extras from the initial build. I have never added any, as far as I can remember.  Now, to get my top hat cap off the gear I actually had to reconnect the bottom bolt temporarily and push up hard on the wheel with a lever, to release tension on the bolt so I could pull it out.  I don't know how much tension there was exactly, but I had no extra gap between the elastomer metal rings and the base of the mount.  And this is with over 1000 hours, and 8 years.  My elastomers actually look to be in pretty good shape too.  Yeah, I'm shocked too that I 've never had to add any spacers, and still have tension, but I have checked every annual just for play and never had any, so I've never disassembled this area before...ever.  I'm very glad for Vic and others who have, because if I hadn't have known from them, I wouldn't have even looked. (I'm betting if Vic hadn't seen the crack from above he wouldn't have either.)


So, I guess I now reassemble and order the doubler, then take it apart in a couple weeks again.

At least I now know how long to expect it to take.
I should note that I am not a very bad lander...no, not bragging because it's not me, but the plane that makes it that way.  I almost always land with the nosewheel off, and when I roll out I keep the nose up as long as I can.  Heck, if I have a 5000' taxi to do on the runway, I usually add power and taxi with the nose off the ground, just to save the wear and tear.  So maybe this has helped.


I snapped a couple of pictures, but I'm too messy to send them right now.  If someone thinks they're relevant though, I can email to the list. 

Tim

On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 4:15 PM, Pascal <rv10flyer(at)live.com (rv10flyer(at)live.com)> wrote:
[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: "Pascal" <rv10flyer(at)live.com (rv10flyer(at)live.com)>

1 isolator at building, let it sit while your building and for the first 10 hours of flying, assuming that means about 10 landings, at that point, since you're checking the plane after every flight anyway, check and possibly add the 2nd isolator. At every annual I check the clearance, but at this point 2 seems to be enough as 3 is too hard to force on.

Simply put the abuse of soft field is too much for the way the original mounts were built after 1000 hours. For someone that has no idea what a soft field landing is, other than the practice I did on hard runways, feels like Wink I doubt there is an issue for me over the long run.

Tim;
I gathered from the figure 1 that the plate sits with the four corners held in place by the arms, so unless there is a huge gap they really should not move much. Rubbing on the arms is indeed a concern I agree with you on. I would probably use rtv on all four notched areas and for good measure maybe even n the plates themselves to diminish vibration should there be any looseness. Glue would probably be better, and worth a question to Vans on that need, when ordering the plates.

As always, I'll await your report on how things look for you.

Pascal

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Kelly McMullen



Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:26 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Well,

For those that are not aware, the Mooney M20 series of planes use exactly the same part number shock disk. On the early, lower gross wt models the shock disks are good for about 12 years, but many continue to meet the tension specs for over 20 years, but do get harder, providing less cushioning. On later, higher gross wt models the disks may last only 5-8 yrs before they are too compressed.

The RV-10 empty wt matches the models that use the O-36-/IO-360 engines at around 1600-1700 lbs, and has gross wt of 2575 lbs. So, depending on climate and exposure to ozone, I would expect the RV-10 shock disks to last 15 yrs, give or take a few, and if tension is lost anywhere past the 10 yr mark I would think about replacing them.

The ouch part is that they now cost over $100 per shock disk from most suppliers. I have heard as low as maybe $90 but most are charging $100+

I'm not really looking forward to doing the SB as I am very close to finishing firewall forward work.


On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 2:56 PM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)> wrote:
[quote]
 I don't know how much tension there was exactly, but I had no extra gap between the elastomer metal rings and the base of the mount.  And this is with over 1000 hours, and 8 years.  My elastomers actually look to be in pretty good shape too.  Yeah, I'm shocked too that I 've never had to add any spacers, and still have tension, but I have checked every annual just for play and never had any, so I've never disassembled this area before...ever.  I'm very glad for Vic and others who have, because if I hadn't have known from them, I wouldn't have even looked. (I'm betting if Vic hadn't seen the crack from above he wouldn't have either.)


So, I guess I now reassemble and order the doubler, then take it apart in a couple weeks again.

At least I now know how long to expect it to take.

[b]


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amekler



Joined: 07 Oct 2010
Posts: 164

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:50 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Since I am not the builder of my rv10 any idea about how many hours this sb will take my A+P?
Alan
N668G
300 hrs

Sent from my iPhone

Quote:
On Aug 29, 2014, at 3:23 PM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> wrote:



I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect
mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this...

If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they
don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in
place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't
secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when
it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on
the engine mount.

For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct?
If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding
glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that
plate from spinning.

I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which
fix I need to perform.


Tim

> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote:
> Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf
>
> Rodger






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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2878

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:03 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Probably 2 hours for the first session to see if you have cracks. Then if you have no cracks probably another 2 or 3 to actually fix it up. But you either have to leave it with them disassembled after you inspect it, or do it twice and wait on the proper set of parts.
Tim

Quote:
On Aug 29, 2014, at 5:49 PM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> wrote:



Since I am not the builder of my rv10 any idea about how many hours this sb will take my A+P?
Alan
N668G
300 hrs

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2014, at 3:23 PM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect
> mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this...
>
> If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they
> don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in
> place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't
> secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when
> it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on
> the engine mount.
>
> For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct?
> If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding
> glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that
> plate from spinning.
>
> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which
> fix I need to perform.
>
>
> Tim
>
>> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote:
>> Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf
>>
>> Rodger







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Kellym



Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1705
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:13 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Suggest you obtain parts, assuming no cracks, then anyone you trust,
licensed mechanic or not can actually do the work. The only requirement
for a licensed A&P is to do the condition inspection. You don't even
need A&P to correct whatever discrepancies the A&P finds. If you prefer
to use licensed mechanic to do the SB, by all means, no criticism, just
pointing out there is no regulatory requirement for the certificate
beyond than one inspection/yr.
On 8/29/2014 3:49 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote:
Quote:


Since I am not the builder of my rv10 any idea about how many hours this sb will take my A+P?
Alan
N668G
300 hrs

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2014, at 3:23 PM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect
> mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this...
>
> If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they
> don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in
> place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't
> secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when
> it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on
> the engine mount.
>
> For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct?
> If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding
> glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that
> plate from spinning.
>
> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which
> fix I need to perform.
> Tim
>
>> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote:
>> Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf
>>
>> Rodger
>




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wgreenley



Joined: 09 Jan 2010
Posts: 100
Location: Dowagiac, MI

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:15 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

You can still do the SB, you only need the A&P for the annual conditional
inspection.
Bill Greenley

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amekler



Joined: 07 Oct 2010
Posts: 164

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:44 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Yes i understand
Assuming no cracks the doubler needs to be installed.
Is this being provided by Vans at no cost?
Alan

Sent from my iPhone

[quote] On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:14 PM, "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> wrote:



You can still do the SB, you only need the A&P for the annual conditional
inspection.
Bill Greenley

--


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Tim Olson



Joined: 25 Jan 2007
Posts: 2878

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:58 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

I believe the parts are provided free.
Tim

[quote] On Aug 29, 2014, at 6:43 PM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> wrote:



Yes i understand
Assuming no cracks the doubler needs to be installed.
Is this being provided by Vans at no cost?
Alan

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:14 PM, "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> You can still do the SB, you only need the A&P for the annual conditional
> inspection.
> Bill Greenley
>
> --


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rleffler



Joined: 05 Nov 2006
Posts: 680

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 4:27 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Yep. I ordered mine this afternoon.

Bob

Sent from my iPad

[quote] On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:58 PM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> wrote:



I believe the parts are provided free.
Tim

> On Aug 29, 2014, at 6:43 PM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> Yes i understand
> Assuming no cracks the doubler needs to be installed.
> Is this being provided by Vans at no cost?
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:14 PM, "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> You can still do the SB, you only need the A&P for the annual conditional
>> inspection.
>> Bill Greenley
>>
>> --


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 5:11 pm    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

I also ordered mine today.  They asked if I found a crack, and I said "I don't know, but I doubt it since I have less than 300 hours and have never operated off grass."  They took that as "no cracks" and took my order.  I will of course be letting them know if I do indeed find a crack.

-Rob

On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 5:26 PM, Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com (rv(at)thelefflers.com)> wrote:
[quote]--> RV10-List message posted by: Bob Leffler <rv(at)thelefflers.com (rv(at)thelefflers.com)>

Yep.    I ordered mine this afternoon.

Bob

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:58 PM, Tim Olson <Tim(at)MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim(at)myrv10.com (Tim(at)myrv10.com)>
>
> I believe the parts are provided free.
> Tim
>
>> On Aug 29, 2014, at 6:43 PM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net (amekler(at)metrocast.net)> wrote:
>>
>> --> RV10-List message posted by: Alan Mekler MD <amekler(at)metrocast.net (amekler(at)metrocast.net)>
>>
>> Yes i understand
>> Assuming no cracks the doubler needs to be installed.
>> Is this being provided by Vans at no cost?
>> Alan
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:14 PM, "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com (wgreenley(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
>>>
>>> --> RV10-List message posted by: "William Greenley" <wgreenley(at)gmail.com (wgreenley(at)gmail.com)>
>>>
>>> You can still do the SB, you only need the A&P for the annual conditional
>>> inspection.
>>> Bill Greenley
>>>
>>> --


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Barry



Joined: 16 Sep 2008
Posts: 108

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 6:07 am    Post subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Two thoughts

1. With the WD-1001K-MOD doubler installed it looks like there will be more clearence so the metal plates of the elastomers may clear the support tubes

2. With the added thickness of the doubler, you may need fewer U-1002 washers to take up the slack. I wonder if three washers will still be the max allowed


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Kelly McMullen



Joined: 16 Apr 2008
Posts: 1188
Location: Sun Lakes AZ

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 6:39 am    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Interesting points. I looked at whether I would need an additional washer as my nose gear and engine have been mounted for more than a year. So far it is fine with the original one washer, and the double will add more compression. My -10 has been in my Aridzona uncooled hangar all of its life.

On Sun, Aug 31, 2014 at 7:07 AM, Barry <blmarzaa(at)gmail.com (blmarzaa(at)gmail.com)> wrote:
[quote] --> RV10-List message posted by: "Barry" <blmarzaa(at)gmail.com (blmarzaa(at)gmail.com)>

Two thoughts

1. With the WD-1001K-MOD doubler installed it looks like there will be more clearence so the metal plates of the elastomers may clear the support tubes

2. With the added thickness of the doubler, you may need fewer U-1002 washers to take up the slack. I wonder if three washers will still be the max allowed




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Tim Olson



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Posts: 2878

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 8:26 am    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

I was thinking exactly the same things. I think you're right.
Tim

Quote:
On Aug 31, 2014, at 9:07 AM, "Barry" <blmarzaa(at)gmail.com> wrote:



Two thoughts

1. With the WD-1001K-MOD doubler installed it looks like there will be more clearence so the metal plates of the elastomers may clear the support tubes

2. With the added thickness of the doubler, you may need fewer U-1002 washers to take up the slack. I wonder if three washers will still be the max allowed




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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429679#429679












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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 6:05 am    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

On 29.08.2014 21:23, Tim Olson wrote:
Quote:


........
glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that
plate from spinning.

I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which
fix I need to perform.

Hi Tim,


what is the outcome of your investigation? And did you talk with Van's
about "glueing" the new plate to the mount?

Cheers Werner


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Tim Olson



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Posts: 2878

PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 6:46 am    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Hi,
I posted it that same day. The Van's tech team
guys were just talking about it when I called.
They agree that it should probably be
prevented from moving. Either by welding it
along the edge, or by proseal or similar to
bond it in place.

Tim
On 9/3/2014 9:05 AM, Werner Schneider wrote:
Quote:

On 29.08.2014 21:23, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> ........
> glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that
> plate from spinning.
>
> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which
> fix I need to perform.
>
Hi Tim,

what is the outcome of your investigation? And did you talk with Van's
about "glueing" the new plate to the mount?

Cheers Werner



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 6:47 am    Post subject: SB 2014-08-29 Reply with quote

Data point.... 180 hours exclusively off of grass. No cracks.

Sent from my iPhone

Quote:
On Sep 3, 2014, at 10:05 AM, Werner Schneider <glastar(at)gmx.net> wrote:




> On 29.08.2014 21:23, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>
> ........
> glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that
> plate from spinning.
>
> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which
> fix I need to perform.
Hi Tim,

what is the outcome of your investigation? And did you talk with Van's about "glueing" the new plate to the mount?

Cheers Werner






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