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pitch?

 
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stuart(at)harnerfarm.net
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 12:42 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

Hi,

My Warp Drive prop (3 blade- 60”) arrived yesterday and I am getting ready to set it up. It is going on my Firefly with a Rotax 447 (single carb),B-Gearbox with 2.58 ratio.

Is anyone running this same setup?

What amount of pitch do you think I should start with?

Do I shoot for 6500 or 6800 RPM static?

Just waiting for muffler mount and engine instruments so I can do the final assembly.

Getting anxious!

Thanks in advance,

Stuart
[quote][b]


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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:04 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

If I was flying it, I would prop it to bump 6,500 rpm, wide open throttle, straight and level flight. Without looking for the book, I think the 447 is rated at 6,500 rpm max continuous. 6,800 rpm is like military power, can only be run at that speed for 5 minutes max. If you had an in flight adjustable prop you could pitch to turn 6,800 rpm, but a ground adjustable prop works best propped as described above.

I don't know what static rpm would be, probably 6,300. Been too many years since I had a 447 on my FS.

john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama

From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stuart Harner
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2014 3:41 PM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: pitch?

Hi,

My Warp Drive prop (3 blade- 60”) arrived yesterday and I am getting ready to set it up. It is going on my Firefly with a Rotax 447 (single carb),B-Gearbox with 2.58 ratio.

Is anyone running this same setup?

What amount of pitch do you think I should start with?

Do I shoot for 6500 or 6800 RPM static?

Just waiting for muffler mount and engine instruments so I can do the final assembly.

Getting anxious!

Thanks in advance,

Stuart[quote] [b]


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John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama
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beauford173(at)tampabay.r
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 2:03 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

Brother Harner:

Cannot speak directly to the Warp… Mine has a 66 inch IVO… But load is load. That said, I would suspect that anything over
6100 or 6150 static might be a tad skinny on loading. When I set 6150 static WOT, I get easy 6600 in level flight WOT.
Personally fer me, that is about enough. 6800 static would be like an argument with my first wife… makes my few remaining teeth hurt.
(how mad are you at your bearings…?)

Worth What Ye Paid Fer It…

beauford
FF-076
Brandon, FL


From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stuart Harner
Subject: pitch?

What amount of pitch do you think I should start with?

Do I shoot for 6500 or 6800 RPM static?

Stuart
Quote:

[quote][b]


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t41pilot



Joined: 05 Sep 2011
Posts: 38
Location: Howard City, Michigan

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 4:03 pm    Post subject: Re: pitch? Reply with quote

I'm running a 447 on my firefly with a 60 inch IVO prop. 6500 WOT is by the book and typically 200 RPM less static on the ground would yield whatever WOT setting you are looking for. That being said, I have found from a lot of reading on the subject that not all 447's are going to run identically. You should dial in your prop to whatever setting makes your CHT and EGT fall within the normal operating range during flight conditions.
On my particular engine that ended up being 6000 static and 6300 WOT. It took a few flights to get that figured out. Definitely 6800 WOT is too much. I would start at 61 or 62 static and see how she goes. Add more pitch if the EGT is too high. Fiddling with carb jets to get the temps right can lead to a vicious circle of prop pitch changes and wrong conclusions. I did end up with my clip set rich and one size larger on my main jet but in most cases the stock size jets should work.


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Richard Pike



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 5:48 pm    Post subject: Re: pitch? Reply with quote

What John & the others said. Let me add a few remarks from my own experience: leave the jets alone and fine tune the EGT with prop pitch. When the pitch is ideal, your EGT's will stay roughly between 1050 & 1150 at any typical in-flight throttle setting except WOT, where they will be 1000-1050. As the EGT rises and falls from summer to winter, once again, leave the jets alone and add or remove pitch.

I marked this on my Ivo hub abut 3 years ago, so the arrows are a bit faded, but coarse is one way, fine is the other. Takes less than 2 minutes, usually a half a turn is enough.


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Richard Pike
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Kingsport, TN 3TN0

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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 6:05 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

If I remember correctly, ROTAX sets up their two strokes, before they leave
the factory, for operation from sea level to 3000 feet on a 70F day. It has
the correct heat range spark plugs and is jetted correctly. It will run
perfect right out of the box.

It is up to the operator to load the prop correctly. Do it by pitch
adjustment and leave the engine alone.

My experience with two stroke aircraft engines, which are continuous duty
engines, is WOT, straight and level flight, just bump the red line, 6500
rpm. I discovered if I set up the engine this way, my EGTs would be right
in the green. Loading and unloading the prop by changing pitch attitude
also affects EGTs, but temporarily. EGTs can be controlled with throttle
settings.

This info is nothing new. We have been doing it this way since 1984, and
others long before me.

john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama


What John & the others said. Let me add a few remarks from my own
experience: leave the jets alone and fine tune the EGT with prop pitch. When
the pitch is ideal, your EGT's will stay roughly between 1050 & 1150 at any
typical in-flight throttle setting except WOT, where they will be 1000-1050.
As the EGT rises and falls from summer to winter, once again, leave the jets
alone and add or remove pitch.

I marked this on my Ivo hub abut 3 years ago, so the arrows are a bit faded,
but coarse is one way, fine is the other. Takes less than 2 minutes, usually
a half a turn is enough.

--------
Richard Pike


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rickofudall



Joined: 19 Sep 2009
Posts: 1392
Location: Udall, KS, USA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:35 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

Stuart, As long as you're in the ballpark it will be okay. If, after first setting, you find the engine is winding out and EGT is running hot, put in more pitch. On the other hand if it's a bit boggy, doesn't rev up and the CHT's are running hot, take a little pitch out. Somewhere around John's or Beauford's recommendation should be the Goldilocks setting. Good luck and have fun.
Rick Girard

On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 5:03 PM, Beauford <beauford173(at)tampabay.rr.com (beauford173(at)tampabay.rr.com)> wrote:
Quote:

Brother Harner:
 
Cannot speak directly to the Warp… Mine has a 66 inch IVO… But load is load.  That said, I would suspect that anything over
6100 or 6150 static might  be a tad skinny on loading.  When I set 6150 static WOT, I get easy 6600 in level flight WOT.
Personally fer me, that is about enough. 6800 static would be like an argument with my first wife… makes my few remaining teeth hurt.
(how mad are you at your bearings…?)
 
Worth What Ye Paid Fer It…
 
beauford
FF-076
Brandon, FL
 
 
From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Stuart Harner
Subject: pitch?
 
What amount of pitch do you think I should start with?
 
Do I shoot for 6500 or 6800 RPM static?
 

Stuart
Quote:
 

Quote:


get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution





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[quote][b]


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 4:51 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

Thanks everyone for the replies.

Any idea where I should start, maybe 10°?

Stuart

From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Girard
Sent: Friday, August 29, 2014 6:35 PM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: pitch?

Stuart, As long as you're in the ballpark it will be okay. If, after first setting, you find the engine is winding out and EGT is running hot, put in more pitch. On the other hand if it's a bit boggy, doesn't rev up and the CHT's are running hot, take a little pitch out. Somewhere around John's or Beauford's recommendation should be the Goldilocks setting.
Good luck and have fun.



Rick Girard

On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 5:03 PM, Beauford <beauford173(at)tampabay.rr.com (beauford173(at)tampabay.rr.com)> wrote:
Brother Harner:

Cannot speak directly to the Warp… Mine has a 66 inch IVO… But load is load. That said, I would suspect that anything over
6100 or 6150 static might be a tad skinny on loading. When I set 6150 static WOT, I get easy 6600 in level flight WOT.
Personally fer me, that is about enough. 6800 static would be like an argument with my first wife… makes my few remaining teeth hurt.
(how mad are you at your bearings…?)

Worth What Ye Paid Fer It…

beauford
FF-076
Brandon, FL


From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com) [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com (owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com)] On Behalf Of Stuart Harner
Subject: pitch?

What amount of pitch do you think I should start with?

Do I shoot for 6500 or 6800 RPM static?


Stuart
Quote:

Quote:
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Kolb-Listtp://forums.matronics.com_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution




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Mk IIIC

Thanks, Homer GBYM



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jbhart(at)onlyinternet.ne
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 6:02 am    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

Quote:

From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com]

Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2014 3:41 PM

Hi,

My Warp Drive prop (3 blade- 60) arrived yesterday and I am getting ready to
set it up. It is going on my Firefly with a Rotax 447 (single carb),
B-Gearbox with 2.58 ratio.
.......................
Quote:


Stuart,

I hope you have considered the following:

The B gearbox is rated for a max moment of inertia of 1025 lb-in squared or
3000 kg-cm squared.

Ultralight News of Canada found the three blade Warp prop exceeded these numbers.

See: http://www.ultralightnews.ca/articles/driveselection.htm

Warp Drive should be able to tell you the moment of inertia of your propeller.
Or, the above site can direct you to a Rotax Service Bulletin that explains
how to determine the moment of inertia of your prop.

Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 8:04 am    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

Jack,

Some others have raised that issue. I was aware of the MOI limits on
gearboxes and quizzed Darrell at Warp Drive before I ordered the prop. He
assured me it would be OK, but had no hard numbers for me.

Now I am beginning to wonder if I was fooled by a salesman. Sad

I can easily set up and run the MOI tests myself to get the true answer, but
I suspect I am not going to like it.

Options are buy a new milled aluminum hub, but that is saving all the weight
at the center, which won't help the MOI much. I could convert to a two
blade hub, but the 60" is probably not able to put enough load on the engine
at any kind of a reasonable pitch.

I wanted to check out the Power Fin props at OSH, but could not find them on
the field nor in the list of vendors.

Now what I am going to say next is strictly personal and is NOT meant to
start any flame wars over props:

I know Travis recommends the IVO, but for me they are not an option due to
other's experiences. End of story, no more gas for the flames.
I have a good regard for the Warp Drives, related to the above sentence,
again, no more gas.

I am completely open to any other prop that gets the job done that is
reasonably priced.

I don't care about looks, but am concerned about vibration, price and noise,
but of course they have to take a back seat to proper application.

Some things I have read and conversations I have had led me to think that
the 3 blade would be a better choice as it would be smoother and quieter
than a 2 blade. I also liked the idea of a lower overall folded size (my
hanger/trailer situation came into play here).

Anybody want to buy a new prop that has not even had the bolts torqued down?

Not the first stupid thing I have done, probably not the last either.....

Stuart

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rowedenny



Joined: 09 Mar 2008
Posts: 338
Location: Western PA

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 9:53 am    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

I would think that the shorter blades of your 60"prop would drastically reduce it's inertia. Also if it's a tapered tip that would also make it lighter.
Most Kolb props are 66-72" dia.

Dennis "Skid" Rowe
Mk3, Rotax 670,
Leechburg, PA

[quote] On Aug 30, 2014, at 12:03 PM, "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net> wrote:



Jack,

Some others have raised that issue. I was aware of the MOI limits on
gearboxes and quizzed Darrell at Warp Drive before I ordered the prop. He
assured me it would be OK, but had no hard numbers for me.

Now I am beginning to wonder if I was fooled by a salesman. Sad

I can easily set up and run the MOI tests myself to get the true answer, but
I suspect I am not going to like it.

Options are buy a new milled aluminum hub, but that is saving all the weight
at the center, which won't help the MOI much. I could convert to a two
blade hub, but the 60" is probably not able to put enough load on the engine
at any kind of a reasonable pitch.

I wanted to check out the Power Fin props at OSH, but could not find them on
the field nor in the list of vendors.

Now what I am going to say next is strictly personal and is NOT meant to
start any flame wars over props:

I know Travis recommends the IVO, but for me they are not an option due to
other's experiences. End of story, no more gas for the flames.
I have a good regard for the Warp Drives, related to the above sentence,
again, no more gas.

I am completely open to any other prop that gets the job done that is
reasonably priced.

I don't care about looks, but am concerned about vibration, price and noise,
but of course they have to take a back seat to proper application.

Some things I have read and conversations I have had led me to think that
the 3 blade would be a better choice as it would be smoother and quieter
than a 2 blade. I also liked the idea of a lower overall folded size (my
hanger/trailer situation came into play here).

Anybody want to buy a new prop that has not even had the bolts torqued down?

Not the first stupid thing I have done, probably not the last either.....

Stuart

--


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John Hauck



Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 12:00 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

Daryl Heineman, President of Warp Drive, is probably the salesman you are
referring to that sold you the prop. Normally, he is the only one selling
them. Good man. Knowledgeable when it comes to Warp Drive Props and engine
combos.

I've flown with Warp, and done business with them, for 21 years. Tested
them, unintentionally, to the max. They always come through and get me back
home.

I don't know what kind of flying you will be doing, but doubt you will ever
be able to over stress your gear box with this prop and a FS????

Daryl was not trying to fool you, I am sure.

I'd fly that combo.

My experience and opinion only. Don't try this at home.

john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama

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rickofudall



Joined: 19 Sep 2009
Posts: 1392
Location: Udall, KS, USA

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 3:07 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

Stuart, Before you get rid of your WD prop, know this. Most of the MOI problems on "B" gearboxes come from trying to make the engine idle at too low an RPM. Doing this beats up the dogs and wears out the spring washers in the gearbox. Just keep the RPM at idle at 2000 or more and you'll be just fine. You have one more option before you dump the prop. Have the blades tapered. It's going to mean putting another $200 or so dollars into the prop but tapering the blades gets rid of mass on the blade tips where you get some good out of it.
My 2 cents, your $200 bucks if you decide to do it. 
Rick Girard

On Sat, Aug 30, 2014 at 2:59 PM, John Hauck <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com (jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com)> wrote:
[quote]--> Kolb-List message posted by: "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com (jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com)>

Daryl Heineman, President of Warp Drive, is probably the salesman you are
referring to that sold you the prop.   Normally, he is the only one selling
them.  Good man.  Knowledgeable when it comes to Warp Drive Props and engine
combos.

I've flown with Warp, and done business with them, for 21 years.  Tested
them, unintentionally, to the max.  They always come through and get me back
home.

I don't know what kind of flying you will be doing, but doubt you will ever
be able to over stress your gear box with this prop and a FS????

Daryl was not trying to fool you, I am sure.

I'd fly that combo.

My experience and opinion only.  Don't try this at home.

john h
mkIII
Titus, Alabama



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:47 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

John,

That was the exact impression I had, and the reason I did not question it
any further. Seemed like he knew the plane, the engine and the gearbox. I
did not get the "used car salesman" red flag.

I really did not give it much extra thought until some replies to my
starting pitch angle came back, indicating that this combo would not work.
The numbers back this up, Rotax did not put the limits in the book just for
the heck of it.

However, no one has replied that Yes, they are running this combination and
it is fine. The flip side of that is no one has said "I tried that and it
tore up my gearbox", only some have warned that it would not work, according
to the numbers.

So, it would seem that it all comes down to whether I want to try it or not.

I have been doing some research on this subject today, some of it I did not
understand. I like physics, but am not very good at it.

To me, a heavier prop (flywheel) would help smooth out the pulses of
combustion, at the expense of quick throttle response. It seems to me that
a lighter prop would speed up and slow down "faster" so that it would
"hammer" the gears more. More rotational mass (MOI) would be slower to
reach a set speed, but would also tend to continue rotating at that speed
(minus the drag of producing thrust) therefore carrying the inertia into the
next combustion pulse. To me this should dampen the "hammering of the gears
effect". Maybe I just don't "get it".

Something else I find interesting is that the Rotax manual warns never to
run the engine without a prop (load) as it will damage the gearbox. They
give a max MOI, but wouldn't there also be a minimum MOI?

Maybe I am fretting over nothing. Maybe I should bolt it on and fly!

I value EVERYONE's input, and thank you one and all.

Stuart
P.S. I still haven't heard a suggested starting pitch angle....

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rickofudall



Joined: 19 Sep 2009
Posts: 1392
Location: Udall, KS, USA

PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 5:19 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

Stuart, I'm re-posting this response just in case it didn't come through. And I'm going to add something after.Before you get rid of your WD prop, know this. Most of the MOI problems on "B" gearboxes come from trying to make the engine idle at too low an RPM. Doing this beats up the dogs and wears out the spring washers in the gearbox. Just keep the RPM at idle at 2000 or more and you'll be just fine. You have one more option before you dump the prop. Have the blades tapered. It's going to mean putting another $200 or so dollars into the prop but tapering the blades gets rid of mass on the blade tips where you get some good out of it.
My 2 cents, your $200 bucks if you decide to do it. 
Rick Girard

In the winter of 2006, hot out of LSARM training I built a rig and did the rotational inertia per Rotax Service Instruction 11 UL 91E published December of 1992 (attached). At the time I had six props for various aircraft in the shop. As I recall only the wood two blade that came with my Firestar passed and being of multi-laminate constuction only did barely. Jimmy Young also did tests on two props, a WD and an IVO if memory serves. Both were three blade props.
Anyway, I stand by the recommendations above.
I know I'm not alone in recommending WD props for one simple reason. They are great at holding up to the trials and tribulations of the pusher configuration. I put an AN 6 bolt through a Warp and didn't even know it until I landed. I put a cheap pair of bifocals through the Power Fin on my trike and it cost me two new blades.


Rick

On Sat, Aug 30, 2014 at 7:47 PM, Stuart Harner <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net (stuart(at)harnerfarm.net)> wrote:
[quote]--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net (stuart(at)harnerfarm.net)>

John,

That was the exact impression I had, and the reason I did not question it
any further.  Seemed like he knew the plane, the engine and the gearbox.  I
did not get the "used car salesman" red flag.

I really did not give it much extra thought until some replies to my
starting pitch angle came back, indicating that this combo would not work.
The numbers back this up, Rotax did not put the limits in the book just for
the heck of it.

However, no one has replied that Yes, they are running this combination and
it is fine.  The flip side of that is no one has said "I tried that and it
tore up my gearbox", only some have warned that it would not work, according
to the numbers.

So, it would seem that it all comes down to whether I want to try it or not.

I have been doing some research on this subject today, some of it I did not
understand.  I like physics, but am not very good at it.

To me, a heavier prop (flywheel) would help smooth out the pulses of
combustion, at the expense of quick throttle response.  It seems to me that
a lighter prop would speed up and slow down "faster" so that it would
"hammer" the gears more.  More rotational mass (MOI) would be slower to
reach a set speed, but would also tend to continue rotating at that speed
(minus the drag of producing thrust) therefore carrying the inertia into the
next combustion pulse.  To me this should dampen the "hammering of the gears
effect".  Maybe I just don't "get it".

Something else I find interesting is that the Rotax manual warns never to
run the engine without a prop (load) as it will damage the gearbox.  They
give a max MOI, but wouldn't there also be a minimum MOI?

Maybe I am fretting over nothing.  Maybe I should bolt it on and fly!

I value EVERYONE's input, and thank you one and all.

Stuart
P.S. I still haven't heard a suggested starting pitch angle....

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 5:35 am    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

Thanks Rick, that helps.

This list once again proves what a great bunch of guys make it up.

I have sent an email to WD about this and will wait for a reply.  Holiday weekend and all, plus I am on the road for work next week, so it may be a while before I find out what they say.

I will let you know what comes of this.

Thanks again to everyone!

Stuart

From: owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kolb-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Girard
Sent: Saturday, August 30, 2014 8:20 PM
To: kolb-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Re: pitch?

Stuart, I'm re-posting this response just in case it didn't come through. And I'm going to add something after.
Before you get rid of your WD prop, know this. Most of the MOI problems on "B" gearboxes come from trying to make the engine idle at too low an RPM. Doing this beats up the dogs and wears out the spring washers in the gearbox. Just keep the RPM at idle at 2000 or more and you'll be just fine.
You have one more option before you dump the prop. Have the blades tapered. It's going to mean putting another $200 or so dollars into the prop but tapering the blades gets rid of mass on the blade tips where you get some good out of it.

My 2 cents, your $200 bucks if you decide to do it.



Rick Girard


In the winter of 2006, hot out of LSARM training I built a rig and did the rotational inertia per Rotax Service Instruction 11 UL 91E published December of 1992 (attached). At the time I had six props for various aircraft in the shop. As I recall only the wood two blade that came with my Firestar passed and being of multi-laminate constuction only did barely. Jimmy Young also did tests on two props, a WD and an IVO if memory serves. Both were three blade props.

Anyway, I stand by the recommendations above.

I know I'm not alone in recommending WD props for one simple reason. They are great at holding up to the trials and tribulations of the pusher configuration. I put an AN 6 bolt through a Warp and didn't even know it until I landed. I put a cheap pair of bifocals through the Power Fin on my trike and it cost me two new blades.



Rick

On Sat, Aug 30, 2014 at 7:47 PM, Stuart Harner <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net (stuart(at)harnerfarm.net)> wrote:
--> Kolb-List message posted by: "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net (stuart(at)harnerfarm.net)>

John,

That was the exact impression I had, and the reason I did not question it
any further. Seemed like he knew the plane, the engine and the gearbox. I
did not get the "used car salesman" red flag.

I really did not give it much extra thought until some replies to my
starting pitch angle came back, indicating that this combo would not work.
The numbers back this up, Rotax did not put the limits in the book just for
the heck of it.

However, no one has replied that Yes, they are running this combination and
it is fine. The flip side of that is no one has said "I tried that and it
tore up my gearbox", only some have warned that it would not work, according
to the numbers.

So, it would seem that it all comes down to whether I want to try it or not.

I have been doing some research on this subject today, some of it I did not
understand. I like physics, but am not very good at it.

To me, a heavier prop (flywheel) would help smooth out the pulses of
combustion, at the expense of quick throttle response. It seems to me that
a lighter prop would speed up and slow down "faster" so that it would
"hammer" the gears more. More rotational mass (MOI) would be slower to
reach a set speed, but would also tend to continue rotating at that speed
(minus the drag of producing thrust) therefore carrying the inertia into the
next combustion pulse. To me this should dampen the "hammering of the gears
effect". Maybe I just don't "get it".

Something else I find interesting is that the Rotax manual warns never to
run the engine without a prop (load) as it will damage the gearbox. They
give a max MOI, but wouldn't there also be a minimum MOI?

Maybe I am fretting over nothing. Maybe I should bolt it on and fly!

I value EVERYONE's input, and thank you one and all.

Stuart
P.S. I still haven't heard a suggested starting pitch angle....

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 1:39 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

From: "Stuart Harner" <stuart(at)harnerfarm.net>
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 2014 08:34:47 -0500

Quote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
.................

I have been doing some research on this subject today, some of it I did not
understand. I like physics, but am not very good at it.

To me, a heavier prop (flywheel) would help smooth out the pulses of
combustion, at the expense of quick throttle response. It seems to me that
a lighter prop would speed up and slow down "faster" so that it would
"hammer" the gears more. More rotational mass (MOI) would be slower to
reach a set speed, but would also tend to continue rotating at that speed
(minus the drag of producing thrust) therefore carrying the inertia into the
next combustion pulse. To me this should dampen the "hammering of the gears
effect". Maybe I just don't "get it".
Quote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Stuart,

May be I can help you "get it".

The moment of inertia is the spread of the mass about the center of rotation
times the radius of gyration squared.

Take a large hex nut and tie to the end of a string.

Give it a whirl in the horizontal plane with a short
radius and notice the tension in the string and the
revolution count.

Double string length and try to keep the rotation
speed the same as before.

You will find that the string tension more than doubles and the energy you
have to exert to swing the whole thing goes way up. In this case the system
mass "the nut" is constant but as the mass is moved out from the center of
rotation more torque is required to keep rpm constant.

These represent the loads as seen by the gear box and the crank. It is
desirable to have a low inertia propeller so that the propeller can
accelerate and de accelerate and absorb some of the firing impulse exerted
on the crank by the piston and connecting rod. This reduces the peak
oscillatory torque loads in the crank and on the face of the gear
teeth.

It is some what counter intuitive. With a lower inert propeller, the
engine and gearbox will jump around a little more on the mounts. But
internally the gear box and crank and piston rod bearing assemblies will be
operating under lower peak loads while the system is delivering the same hp
as it would with a higher inertia propeller.

Jack B. Hart FF004
Winchester, IN


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Joined: 23 Jan 2014
Posts: 53
Location: East Moline, Il

PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 12:59 pm    Post subject: Re: pitch? Reply with quote

I started at 16 degrees and then adjusted for 6250 rpm static

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 1:14 pm    Post subject: pitch? Reply with quote

Thanks, that is where I will start too.

Stuart
Do not archive

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