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blackbird
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 51
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 Posted: Fri Jun 30, 2006 7:16 pm Post subject: Riviting Lexan |
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I am wondering what you guys do to rivit the lexan to the frame....I have done this panel twice now and have cracks starting in 24 hours....Am I pulling them too tight...I have already opened the rivit hole in the lexan up some...
Very frustrating....
Wayne
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Richard Pike
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 1671
Location: Blountville, Tennessee
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| Posted: Fri Jun 30, 2006 7:34 pm Post subject: Riviting Lexan |
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Drill the holes a generous size larger than the rivet. Use aluminum
rivets. The lexan will expand and contract differently than the
aluminum or steel framework, give it room to move. Make sure it is real
Lexan and not acrylic or plexiglas. Anything with superglue or mek or
lacquer thinner in it will make Lexan/Acrylic/Plexiglas go bad and crack.
Richard Pike
MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
blackbird wrote:
| Quote: |
I am wondering what you guys do to rivit the lexan to the frame....I have done this panel twice now and have cracks starting in 24 hours....Am I pulling them too tight...I have already opened the rivit hole in the lexan up some...
Very frustrating....
Wayne
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=44074#44074
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_________________
Richard Pike
Kolb MKIII N420P (420ldPoops)
Kingsport, TN 3TN0
Forgiving is tough, being forgiven is wonderful, and God's grace really is amazing. |
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ElleryWeld(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Sat Jul 01, 2006 2:27 am Post subject: Riviting Lexan |
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Wayne
are you using aluminum rivits?
Ellery
Do not archive
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blackbird
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 51
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| Posted: Sat Jul 01, 2006 4:40 am Post subject: Re: Riviting Lexan |
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Ok guys,
I am using aluminum rivits and was wondering do I enlarge the hole one size up ....Have got a couple of responses on using washers also....and do I hand pull them....
Wayne
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John Hauck
Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 4639
Location: Titus, Alabama (hauck's holler)
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| Posted: Sat Jul 01, 2006 4:59 am Post subject: Riviting Lexan |
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| I am using aluminum rivits and was wondering do I enlarge the hole
one size up ....Have got a couple of responses on using washers
also....and do I hand pull them....
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| Wayne
Wayne/All:
Over the past several years, I have noticed quality of "lexan" has
deteriorated. Couple years ago I replaced the lexan in one of my
doors with some "no name" polycarbonate. Within days I noticed
several rivet holes were experiencing stress cracks. Stop drilled and
no more problems.
In the old days, Lexan brand polycarbonate manufactured by GE seldom,
if ever, stress cracked, unless there was quite some age on the
material.
Never had to enlarge holes to prevent cracks. However, seemed to
payoff to debur these holes. Seemed the polycarbonate would react
like steel and aluminum if each hole was not deburred. Sometimes it
is impossible to debur. So....I go for it and hope it does not crack.
john h
mkIII
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_________________
John Hauck
MKIII/912ULS
hauck's holler
Titus, Alabama |
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herbgh
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 145
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| Posted: Sat Jul 01, 2006 6:14 am Post subject: Riviting Lexan |
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Guys
Never tried it but am promised that a small rubber O ring in each
enlarged hole prevents crazing , Herb
On Sat, 1 Jul 2006 07:58:14 -0500 "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
writes:
| Quote: |
| I am using aluminum rivits and was wondering do I enlarge the
hole
one size up ....Have got a couple of responses on using washers
also....and do I hand pull them....
|
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| Wayne
Wayne/All:
Over the past several years, I have noticed quality of "lexan" has
deteriorated. Couple years ago I replaced the lexan in one of my
doors with some "no name" polycarbonate. Within days I noticed
several rivet holes were experiencing stress cracks. Stop drilled
and
no more problems.
In the old days, Lexan brand polycarbonate manufactured by GE
seldom,
if ever, stress cracked, unless there was quite some age on the
material.
Never had to enlarge holes to prevent cracks. However, seemed to
payoff to debur these holes. Seemed the polycarbonate would react
like steel and aluminum if each hole was not deburred. Sometimes it
is impossible to debur. So....I go for it and hope it does not
crack.
john h
mkIII
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slyck(at)frontiernet.net
Guest
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| Posted: Sat Jul 01, 2006 7:07 am Post subject: Riviting Lexan |
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On the tube I fastened the lexan to I ran a strip of electrician's
splicing tape.
It stays soft and gives a cushion to help prevent stress. It also
seals out
moisture.
My windshield frame tubes are steel tube with nutserts and stainless
10-32 screws.
So far no problems with loosening even though I don't have them squeezed
down tight.
-BB
On 1, Jul 2006, at 10:12 AM, Herb Gayheart wrote:
| Quote: |
Guys
Never tried it but am promised that a small rubber O ring in each
enlarged hole prevents crazing , Herb
On Sat, 1 Jul 2006 07:58:14 -0500 "John Hauck" <jhauck(at)elmore.rr.com>
writes:
>
>
> | I am using aluminum rivits and was wondering do I enlarge the
> hole
> one size up ....Have got a couple of responses on using washers
> also....and do I hand pull them....
> |
> |
> | Wayne
>
> Wayne/All:
>
> Over the past several years, I have noticed quality of "lexan" has
> deteriorated. Couple years ago I replaced the lexan in one of my
> doors with some "no name" polycarbonate. Within days I noticed
> several rivet holes were experiencing stress cracks. Stop drilled
> and
> no more problems.
>
> In the old days, Lexan brand polycarbonate manufactured by GE
> seldom,
> if ever, stress cracked, unless there was quite some age on the
> material.
>
> Never had to enlarge holes to prevent cracks. However, seemed to
> payoff to debur these holes. Seemed the polycarbonate would react
> like steel and aluminum if each hole was not deburred. Sometimes it
>
> is impossible to debur. So....I go for it and hope it does not
> crack.
>
> john h
> mkIII
>
>
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Roger Lee
Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 1464
Location: Tucson, Az.
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| Posted: Sat Jul 01, 2006 9:45 am Post subject: Re: Riviting Lexan |
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Hi All,
Here are some tips from my helicopter building days, plus a plane or two.
By the way my first plane was a swing seat 15 hp. quicksilver in 1980. Then a quicksilver mx in 1982.
Ok back to the problem at hand.
First we had to sand, polish and slightly bevel the all around the edges of the lexan with very very fine sandpaper. The manufactures were very insistant about polishing the edges. I guess sharp straight edges can crack easier than beveled polished edges.
We were taught to drill the lexan or plexiglass one drill bit oversize to allow for vibration (a killer) and expansion. Use a reamer to knock the sharp edges off your drilled holes on both sides.
We usually used screws because you can control the amount of torque on the screw easier than a pop rivet and it is easier to replace or remove if need arises. If you use pop rivets use aluminum and use a small size. If you use large pop rivets then you put to much torque on the lexan before the rivet pops. Many of our builders would also use a plastic washer between the screw head and the plastic. I did worked well.
Using this procedure, we never had stress cracks. I learned this procedure right from two different manufactures. The guys who did not do it this way always had a crack somewhere sometime. As the body twist and expands, plus the glass expanding something has to give, be it a slightly larger hole that allows movement or the stress will find you a weak spot to crack.
This was really important for our helicopters because of the vibration and sometimes the very large plexiglass or lexan area for the front windscreen and or doors.
It has always worked for me and I have never had to stop drill any of my projects. My Mark III, which I bought already built, now has pop rivets that I think are too tight and I have a couple of stop drill sites.
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_________________
Roger Lee
Tucson, Az.
Rotax Instructor & Rotax IRC
Light Sport Repairman
Home 520-574-1080 TRY HOME FIRST
Cell 520-349-7056 |
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