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rehn(at)rockisland.com
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 Posted: Fri Aug 11, 2006 5:31 pm Post subject: Differential pressure guage |
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I recentlty purchased a differential pressure guage to measure pressure in
the cylinders. I have read the directions and am looking for those of you
experts out ther that have experience and that might give a step by stepon
the use for our rotax engines. Like pressures to set the guauge that has
pressure delivered to via the outside pressure and what to look for in the
other guage . What noises if any when the pressre in clyn. reaches it max
and what gauges are doing etc. I guess i'm looking for a step by step Thanks
for advice and help.
Jerry
Mono 914
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europa flugzeug fabrik
Joined: 13 Feb 2006
Posts: 65
Location: North Coast, USA
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| Posted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 3:32 pm Post subject: Re: Differential pressure guage |
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| rehn(at)rockisland.com wrote: | | I recentlty purchased a differential pressure guage to measure pressure in the cylinders. I have read the directions and am looking for those of you experts out ther that have experience and that might give a step by step on the use for our rotax engines. Like pressures to set the guauge that has pressure delivered to via the outside pressure and what to look for in the other guage . What noises if any when the pressre in clyn. reaches it max and what gauges are doing etc. I guess i'm looking for a step by step. |
Pressure in is 80 PSI; pressure on the other dial is your “reading.” If readings good, say above 70 PSI, what and where you hear anything doesn’t matter. I think both Continental specify 60 as fail.
The trick is to get an accurate reading if really important, as you pull the piston up to TDC and stop it at perceived TDC. It’s easy to “cheat a reading,” and you can also change the seating of the rings giving a false, low reading. Never done it on a Rotax, but working the prop (safety first in working that prop if she should get away!) through a reduction gearbox + backlash may be interesting. If elusive to you, maybe you can practice on somebody’s direct-drive Lycoming or Continental. Or ask a maintenance shop when they might do this task and just watch. Offer to buy the donuts as compensation, and mech may even teach you.
If you're working alone, I recommend you reduce regulated 80 PSI in a bunch, before disconnecting the tester. There’s hair-trigger pressure on that prop, more so I’d guess through a redux drive in reverse.
However, whether a reading you get, verses an experienced aircraft repairman may get, is 72, or 78 really doesn’t matter. Engine should be at least warm when you do this, though not always mattering that much. Fly one hour off and upon landing, repeat test and even get some other significantly different reading.
I’m surprised Rotax specifies a direct compression test primarily. Ditto for my newer Toyota Solara, rather fancy engineering, though turning the crank at the damper with whatever special tool would be a big affair. But not precise, and too much noise going on for even a helper to detect by sound at appropriate “ports” a leak past rings, intake valve, or exhaust valve. Have fun!
Fred F.
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