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Proseal

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william(at)gbta.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:09 pm Post subject: Proseal

My first bout with the proseal went pretty  good.� Not near as bad as I was expecting after some of the conversations  on the lists.� Just one question though.� How do I know when it  is�done "curing"???� Does it stay rubbery or does  it�harden???� I've got one trailing edge skin that got a little wavy  when edge rolling it and I want to be sure the proseal is fully cured before  removing the clamps from it (don't want the proseal coming loose and letting the  skin pillow up)

 �

 Sorry for the lame question,

 Bill Britton

 RV-10 Elevators/deburring  tailcone

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Deems Davis

Joined: 09 Jan 2006
Posts: 925

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:42 pm Post subject: Proseal

Bill, Pro Seal never gets 'hard' is stays a rubbery-like texture, but it 

does get to a point where it is not plyable and is not able to be 

deformed without returning to its 'cured' state. the curing time depends 

on how much catalyst you mixed with it, how thouroughly it was mixed, 

and the temperature in which it cures. If it cured (at) room temperature 

(70 degrees +) I would wait AT LEAST 24 hours before removing any 

clamps, and preferrably, 48 hrs. If it cured at a cooler temperature I 

would extend the time considerably (e.g. when leak testing my fuel tanks 

I waited 3+ weeks to make sure everytning was cured befor applying any 

pressure) 9OK so it helped that i had lots of other things to do in the 

meantime).



Deems Davis # 406

Wings

http://deemsrv10.com/



Bill and Tami Britton wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		   My first bout with the proseal went pretty good.  Not near as bad as I 

 was expecting after some of the conversations on the lists.  Just one 

 question though.  How do I know when it is done "curing"???  Does it 

 stay rubbery or does it harden???  I've got one trailing edge skin 

 that got a little wavy when edge rolling it and I want to be sure the 

 proseal is fully cured before removing the clamps from it (don't want 

 the proseal coming loose and letting the skin pillow up)

  

 Sorry for the lame question,

 Bill Britton

 RV-10 Elevators/deburring tailcone

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william(at)gbta.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 6:13 am Post subject: Proseal

Thanks Deems.  That's all I needed to know.  I brought the elevators into my 

house to cure so they re in 70 degree temps.  I'll leave them for probably 3 

days and check them out.



Bill Britton



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Tim(at)MyRV10.com
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 6:31 am Post subject: Proseal

Bill, I wouldn't worry about 3 days for the elevators.  If they're

inside one day or so you should be just fine.  FOr the tanks though,

I'd wait a week.

do not archive

Tim

Bill and Tami Britton wrote:

[quote] 

 

 Thanks Deems.  That's all I needed to know.  I brought the elevators 

 into my house to cure so they re in 70 degree temps.  I'll leave them 

 for probably 3 days and check them out.

 

 Bill Britton

 

 ---

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n8vim(at)arrl.net
Guest

Posted: Wed Jan 18, 2006 8:26 am Post subject: Proseal

Hey all,



I have attached the PDF documentation which includes the cure times for 

Proseal on page 2.



For the 1/2 hour stuff (B1/2), it's 45 hours at 77F, 50% RH.

For the 2 hour stuff (B2), it's 112 hours at 77F, 50% RH



-Jim



Tim Olson wrote:



[quote] 



 Bill, I wouldn't worry about 3 days for the elevators.  If they're

 inside one day or so you should be just fine.  FOr the tanks though,

 I'd wait a week.

 do not archive

 Tim

 Bill and Tami Britton wrote:



> 

> <william(at)gbta.net>

>

> Thanks Deems.  That's all I needed to know.  I brought the elevators 

> into my house to cure so they re in 70 degree temps.  I'll leave them 

> for probably 3 days and check them out.

>

> Bill Britton

>

> ---

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tank_sealant.pdf

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johnwcox(at)pacificnw.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 4:55 am Post subject: Proseal

Jim's attachment of the treatise by Paul Trotter is a definitive report

and  should be kept as a quick reference document for all of the

builders.



Additionally attached are two spec sheets on PRC 1826B and PRC 1422B

sealants. FlameMaster (VANs) meets the same MILSPEC requirements. The

1826 is fuel tank sealant and the 1422 would be more appropriate for

panel attachment, firewall to skin attachment.  The B denotes extrudable

consistency.  If you value either Burraway deburring bits or a pneumatic

rivet squeezer, you have to get a surplus Semco pneumatic gun with 6 oz.

nose.



The above sealants are a real bitch to remove, as they have an extremely

high cohesion factor, once cured to specification. 



John - KUAO

Do not Archive



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jjessen(at)rcn.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 7:48 am Post subject: Proseal

Some day I'd like to meet in person and take a look at you project.  I'm

building out at Lenhardt's.  We have 3 RV-10s building out there, all

hangered next to each other, plus Randy's finished plane behind us.  Where

are you building?   



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jjessen(at)rcn.com
Guest

Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:19 am Post subject: Proseal

Whoops!  Didn't mean for this to go to the entire list.  Sorry fellas.  Just

trying to meet the great John W.  



DO NOT ARCHIVE 



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