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Newbie fluting question

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dsvs(at)comcast.net
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Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:25 pm Post subject: Newbie fluting question

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ptrotter

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 28
Location: Westchester County, NY

Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:30 pm Post subject: Newbie fluting question

David,



I have found it easier to debur first, before fluting.  That way you are 

deburring a straight edge, which is easier.  In general, you flute when 

there is a curve, straight edges do not need fluting.



Paul

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Paul Trotter
RV-8 82080 Fuselage Kit
N801PT (reserved)

chaztuna(at)adelphia.net
Guest

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:29 am Post subject: Newbie fluting question

David,



1  Debur first. It will be very difficult to deburr after adding fluting 

crimps. The fluting will not require the edges to be deburred again.



2  Fluting is generally only required on the long side flanges. The spars 

mate to the "short" front & rear edges of the ribs. If required, fluting 

will not hurt the short sides, providing you do not place a flute at the 

same point a rivet hole is required. This rule holds true everywhere.

Charlie Kuss

 	  Quote: 	
		  



1.  Debur or flute first?



2.  Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?



Thanks,

David

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gmcjetpilot(at)yahoo.com
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Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 3:15 pm Post subject: Newbie fluting question

Subject:  Newbie fluting question 

  From:  David Karlsberg <claypride(at)hotmail.com>       

      >1.  Debur or flute first?

  Debur first. In fact make a production line. Do all you deburring first on all the parts you are working with at the time, than do all the fluting. Save time. It is easier to debur with a straight flange than one with flutes but it can be done. Usually after debur, flute I may go over the flange with the belt sander or vixen file to even the flange out sometimes to make a the flange even width, but this is not necessary.

      >2.  Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?

  No, when sheet metal is bent in a straight line fluting is not usually needed. If there is a curved surface and a flange than flutes are usually needed. If the rib is not flat across the spar flange it should be so small as not not make a difference. 

  Go slow and even and flute as little as possible, you can always squeeze or or tap out over fluting but you usually want to slowly work up to the point of straight with out over doing it. The more curved the flange the deeper the flutes. 

  Get and use good quality flute pliers, the cheap ones and ones that make wide flutes suck. Check Avery or Cleaveland tools. 

  http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/home.asp

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Albert Gardner

Joined: 10 Jan 2006
Posts: 455
Location: Yuma, AZ

Posted: Tue Jan 17, 2006 10:26 pm Post subject: Newbie fluting question

At the same time, bend as necessary to make the rib edges perpendicular to

the web so the skin lays flat. Also after fluting and straightening run the

tip of the nose rib against a disk sander to make sure the curve is smooth.

Any bumps or irregularities may cause a bump in the skin. If the rib isn't

flat against the skin, riveting may cause a depression where the skin is

pulled down to the rib. You have to flute before you can assemble and match

drill otherwise the rib holes won't match the skin holes.



My sequence is:

1. Dress all edges against the scotchbright wheel. 

2. Flute the rib as necessary to make it lay flat (this will put all rivet

hole is a line).

3. Bend the edges if necessary so they are perpendicular to the web.

4. Assemble, match drill.

5. Deburr and dimple.



Albert Gardner

Yuma, AZ

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ceengland(at)bellsouth.ne
Guest

Posted: Thu Jan 19, 2006 12:18 pm Post subject: Newbie fluting question

Albert Gardner wrote:



 	  Quote: 	
		  



At the same time, bend as necessary to make the rib edges perpendicular to

the web so the skin lays flat. Also after fluting and straightening run the

tip of the nose rib against a disk sander to make sure the curve is smooth.

Any bumps or irregularities may cause a bump in the skin. If the rib isn't

flat against the skin, riveting may cause a depression where the skin is

pulled down to the rib. You have to flute before you can assemble and match

drill otherwise the rib holes won't match the skin holes.



My sequence is:

1. Dress all edges against the scotchbright wheel. 

2. Flute the rib as necessary to make it lay flat (this will put all rivet

hole is a line).

3. Bend the edges if necessary so they are perpendicular to the web.

4. Assemble, match drill.

5. Deburr and dimple.



Albert Gardner

Yuma, AZ




	


for newbes: if you're working on the tail (or the fuselage), not all rib 

flanges are 90 degrees to the web.

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