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Ignition switch question

 
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occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 20, 2006 6:58 pm    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

On my Kitfox as wired the output from the rectifier (582 with the original rect) is wired directly to the positive battery bus with no cutoff. I want to add a cutoff to completely isolate the battery. I've seen diagrams the connect the rectifier output to the accessory terminal of the ignition switch and there's no doubt this would accomplish my goal but I have some doubt the ACS switch can take it. It also has the drawback that you cannot isolate the rectifier without turning the ignition to off.

Motorcycles are commonly wired exactly as my aircraft is now, so perhaps this is what most people do. So, whats the popular method?
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kirkhull(at)sbcglobal.net
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 6:44 am    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

Don’t forget you will want to be able to isolate the entire elect system with out shutting off the engine. When I first wired my fox with a Subaru installed , I set it up like a Cessna. The problem was the Cessna uses Mags for the ignition so when I shut off the master on the fox it also shut off the ignition . Not good.


From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave G.
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 9:57 PM
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Ignition switch question


On my Kitfox as wired the output from the rectifier (582 with the original rect) is wired directly to the positive battery bus with no cutoff. I want to add a cutoff to completely isolate the battery. I've seen diagrams the connect the rectifier output to the accessory terminal of the ignition switch and there's no doubt this would accomplish my goal but I have some doubt the ACS switch can take it. It also has the drawback that you cannot isolate the rectifier without turning the ignition to off.



Motorcycles are commonly wired exactly as my aircraft is now, so perhaps this is what most people do. So, whats the popular method?
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Float Flyr



Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 6:51 am    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

This is how I hooked up a master switch for my Kitfox. The relay is not a starter relay (it would overheat) but the type of relay used in RVs for the extra battery. Just for the the way it looked my master switch is a long toggle with a red light in it of the type they use on tractor trailers. The light draws attention to the switch which can be a good thing if things start to get real busy. The advantages of this hook up are; The high current wiring is all outside the fire wall, the switch lead can be fused at the battery and the relay completely disconnects all power form the battery when the master switch is open.

The disadvantage is the 5 or 6 ounces the relay weighs.



Noel [quote]
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:10 am    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

Timely post, as I’ve just gone through the motions for this very thing. What you want is to isolate the battery, and isolate the alternator separately. This would require two solenoids. I got two continuous duty solenoids from a golf cart shop, and wired them up according to this:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/DIY_Crowbar_OVP_F.pdf

Figure Z-24 is what you’re after. Make sure you get CONTINUOUS DUTY solenoids, not starter contactors.

Basically, the alternator goes through the solenoid to the loads, then to a solenoid to the battery. The alternator solenoid is closed via an alternator switch, and the battery solenoid is closed via the battery switch. My loads (GPS, RADIO, EFIS, etc.) are on a bus that is powered by an “avionics” master. It’s really quite simple, and affords me the opportunity to isolate whatever I need to if a problem occurs.

Consider this on your motor: The starter should be parallel to the alternator. That is, if you need to shut down the alternator, don’t kill the starter, too. It’s just in how you wire it up. Also, like the Geo, you have an ECU, no? Don’t kill the ECU power with the alternator switch. You need juice to keep the motor running, but just disconnect the alternator to keep the battery from frying.

Good luck,
Bradley


From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave G.
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 10:57 PM
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Ignition switch question


On my Kitfox as wired the output from the rectifier (582 with the original rect) is wired directly to the positive battery bus with no cutoff. I want to add a cutoff to completely isolate the battery. I've seen diagrams the connect the rectifier output to the accessory terminal of the ignition switch and there's no doubt this would accomplish my goal but I have some doubt the ACS switch can take it. It also has the drawback that you cannot isolate the rectifier without turning the ignition to off.



Motorcycles are commonly wired exactly as my aircraft is now, so perhaps this is what most people do. So, whats the popular method?
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Float Flyr



Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:36 am    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

The Circuit diagram sent will allow the 582 to run quite well with the master turned off. that was a consideration I took into mind when I installed the relay. It is only a battery master.

Shutting off the ignition switch will kill the engine. It grounds out the mag coils.

The original builder of my 'Fox put a 20A reset able breaker on the line between the charging circuit and the battery. 20 A is plenty as the charging circuit is only rated at 16A. Also because the exciter coils for the mags are separate from the lighting coils ( charging circuitry ) the charging circuits can be manually pulled if you notice an over voltage on the system . the operating voltage is 13.8V. so if the voltage goes over 15V its time to consider turning off the lighting coils (pulling that breaker), landing at the next convenient field and have the voltage regulator looked at.


Noel [quote]
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:57 am    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 11:53 am    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

Sorry, got my messages mixed. I thought you were running a Subie.
Bradley


From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bradley M Webb
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 11:10 AM
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Ignition switch question


Timely post, as I’ve just gone through the motions for this very thing. What you want is to isolate the battery, and isolate the alternator separately. This would require two solenoids. I got two continuous duty solenoids from a golf cart shop, and wired them up according to this:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/DIY/DIY_Crowbar_OVP_F.pdf

Figure Z-24 is what you’re after. Make sure you get CONTINUOUS DUTY solenoids, not starter contactors.

Basically, the alternator goes through the solenoid to the loads, then to a solenoid to the battery. The alternator solenoid is closed via an alternator switch, and the battery solenoid is closed via the battery switch. My loads (GPS, RADIO, EFIS, etc.) are on a bus that is powered by an “avionics” master. It’s really quite simple, and affords me the opportunity to isolate whatever I need to if a problem occurs.

Consider this on your motor: The starter should be parallel to the alternator. That is, if you need to shut down the alternator, don’t kill the starter, too. It’s just in how you wire it up. Also, like the Geo, you have an ECU, no? Don’t kill the ECU power with the alternator switch. You need juice to keep the motor running, but just disconnect the alternator to keep the battery from frying.

Good luck,
Bradley


From: owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave G.
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 10:57 PM
To: kitfox-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: Ignition switch question


On my Kitfox as wired the output from the rectifier (582 with the original rect) is wired directly to the positive battery bus with no cutoff. I want to add a cutoff to completely isolate the battery. I've seen diagrams the connect the rectifier output to the accessory terminal of the ignition switch and there's no doubt this would accomplish my goal but I have some doubt the ACS switch can take it. It also has the drawback that you cannot isolate the rectifier without turning the ignition to off.



Motorcycles are commonly wired exactly as my aircraft is now, so perhaps this is what most people do. So, whats the popular method?
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occom(at)ns.sympatico.ca
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 2:02 pm    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

Hi Noel, after evaluating this and a few other emails I've decided that since I don't want to recut the panel for the Cessna dual switch I'll simply add another fuse and a second master switch. It's the simplest solution. So, I have a master switch for the rectifier to Pos bus and a master for battery to Pos bus. I've already got a spare switch position and a spare fuse position.
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Float Flyr



Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 4:39 pm    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

A simple solution is to use a heavy 60-80A switch in the panel.....but..... then you have to bring high current through the fire wall.



Noel [quote]
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 5:12 pm    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

True enough. The high current side of starter solenoid will remain live and on the far side of the firewall. None of the other systems will require as much amperage.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 5:30 pm    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

I guess there are probably a million different ways to wire up a Kitfox. One thing I did do as a precaution in case the master sol fails in flight was to run a 12 ga. fused wire from the battery side of the sol to the main 12 volt buss. This line goes to a hidden "emer" switch so it can be activated just in case that sol fails. I can get all electric power back to the main buss from the battery including the charging circuit. One thing I can't do is "HIT" the engine starter while bypassed. This would pop the breaker or melt the 12 ga wire. BTW, I had to use this circuit recently.

Don Smythe
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Float Flyr



Joined: 19 Jul 2006
Posts: 2704
Location: Campbellton, Newfoundland

PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 6:41 pm    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

I'm much luckier than that ... the only instrument that requires the 12V is my turn coordinator. Radios are on internal battery, as is the GPS. Nav lights and strobes are aux. and I haven't had a smoke in years. The only thing I'd miss would be the starter in case I'd need a restart.



Noel [quote]
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 2:22 pm    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

Guys,
I have not followed this thread completely but if you are looking for alternatives to panel wiring take a look at the Hot Box by Kuntzleman Electronics, Inc.

http://www.kestrobes.com/The_HOT_BOX_brochure.html


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:22 pm    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

Does anyone in our group have experience with the Hot Box in a kitfox? Any negatives? Does it limit wiring alternatives that might be needed in a kitfox?

I'm thinking about one just to simplify the wiring job.

Clem
Lawton, OK
KF IV-912
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:15 pm    Post subject: Ignition switch question Reply with quote

The only thing I can think of is that it being a solid state unit, if you lose the box you lose whatever it's controlling.
Deke

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